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Old 06-06-2011, 03:12 AM   #1
seanathanq83
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Default driveshaft length

well i have looked and cant seem to find much info which surprised me, well i did a 6 speed swap on my wrx and i have a wrx auto driveshaft, and an r160 that a put my old vlsd in just to strengthen it up some and help with how it handles, well the wrx driveshaft i got has a crapped out carrier bearing, i get the " wood pecker noise from it at start off "
so i looked around and started to concider a one piece aluminum driveshaft, and realized that this was just not the way to go, ( still dont know why they dont just do 2.5" with a little bit thicker wall ) but since they dont im going to do with a custom 2.5" steel driveshaft, i have a few shops to choose from, but there isnt much info on nasioc about it, my biggest issue is what are the lengths of the wrx auto shaft, ( to lazy to pull off the car ) and sti shaft, i want to get one made to where i can run it with the R160, and then just switch the pinion mating flange and be able to run it with an r180, is this possible???

also with a steel driveshaft you wont be limited to the crappy 150mph, or the rpm limitation which isnt listed since aluminum if it has impurities will expand like a ballon untill it basically explodes ( no one like to talk about this , but being in mechanical engineering you learn its a very likely possibility )
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:14 AM   #2
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i guess better yet, what is the length of a one piece shaft for both the auto and the sti???? since the oem will be longer because it is two piece
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:07 AM   #3
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I do not have the length specs in hand but both of them are listed in the service manuals. You could also measure the distance from tail shaft to rear diff flange. It would not be much different than measuring to have a jeep drive shaft fabricated. Except that the rear diff does not really articulate.
I would suggest that you switch to the R180 companion flange on your current R160 then fab the drive shaft. This way you are all set for a direct connection come R180 install time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
i guess better yet, what is the length of a one piece shaft for both the auto and the sti???? since the oem will be longer because it is two piece
Huh? The distance between the tail shaft and rear diff does not change though.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:45 AM   #4
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I had a steel 2.5" made for my car. Due to the length, the shop had a problem with critical speed when balancing it. As a result, they stepped up to a 2.75" and all was well with the setup. It cost well under 300 and had serviceable ujoints and a custom flange for the r180. I think you need to check your reasoning behind why to not choose aluminum. The whole expanding like a balloon due to impurities sounds rather implausible to me (as a mechanical engineer myself).


For what it's worth, my steel one piece shaft was ~17 lbs. This is compared to the 14 lbs aluminum one from DSS or the 24 lbs OEM 6mt shaft.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:59 AM   #5
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Well I have no problem with changing out the flange to an r180 style on my r160, just don't want to mess with the preload on the pinion, and if the joints are serviceable the changing the flange in the driveshaft would take about 10 minutes, and probably cost less than the 80 dollars for the Subaru flange.
And I was referring to the fact that a two piece should be a little longer since it has a carrier bearing, it the same as do You stay on the side walk and walk around the corner, or cut through your neighbors yard, even though the angle from the carrier bearing is not alot it still makes a difference

As for not going with aluminum, IMO steel is also abmore forgiving material, also has some flex properties that allow.it to withstand launches and on off acceleration better than aluminum, also it can be made in a smaller diameter therefore keeping me from having to pound on the tunnel to make it fit.

i guess the simpler question would be, is the length of the sti driveshaft the same as an automatic wrx driveshaft, or is the r180 longer, and would that be enough to warrant having to have another driveshaft made when I make the switch
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:29 PM   #6
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Auto DS length = STi DS length.

R180 length = R160 length
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Old 06-06-2011, 12:43 PM   #7
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awsome lol so can anyone give me the length i would need for a one piece driveshaft then??? sorry looking around still cant find it, but i found out that the spice 2-3-13461x is the correct spline slip yoke
Its a 22 spline based on 24
The auto driveshaft is 45.78" not counting the slip yoke or pinion flange,
Sti is 45.59" not counting the slip yoke or pinion flange, I think the slicer unit is a little longer, need to find out how much more can stick into the transmission, also as I stated earlier the one piece should end up being a little shorter since it won't have a bend in the middle like the two piece but over all the tube should be around 42-44 which is very common and on the short side from what I have seen, should have any issues balancing

Last edited by seanathanq83; 06-06-2011 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 06-06-2011, 01:21 PM   #8
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Really, you should bring the old DS to the shop and let them do all of the measuring. Without doing that, you are asking for major problems. It might be a pain initially, but it will ensure the best possible outcome.

My DS place had a new one ready for pickup in less than 12 hours. No joke.

Also, if you climb under the car, you'll see that the OEM one barely bends at all. The middle joint it there for reduction of harmonics really. The length difference between a single piece and OEM is negligible.
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten
Really, you should bring the old DS to the shop and let them do all of the measuring. Without doing that, you are asking for major problems. It might be a pain initially, but it will ensure the best possible outcome.

My DS place had a new one ready for pickup in less than 12 hours. No joke.

Also, if you climb under the car, you'll see that the OEM one barely bends at all. The middle joint it there for reduction of harmonics really. The length difference between a single piece and OEM is negligible.
I talked to a shop today and we went prices and parts and said 2.5 inch would be no problem, and we found the slicer parts that match, I'm going. To measure it for him so we get the correct length, problem is they don't make a yoke flange for the r180, so we are looking into options
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Old 06-06-2011, 02:41 PM   #10
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Double post
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
I talked to a shop today and we went prices and parts and said 2.5 inch would be no problem, and we found the slicer parts that match, I'm going. To measure it for him so we get the correct length, problem is they don't make a yoke flange for the r180, so we are looking into options
My shop had these yokes that were blank meaning they had no holes. He was able to drill the spacing needed for the R160 or (in my case) the R180 with little issue.

It he can get a 2.5" to work, thats even better! I was hoping for 2.5", but when he said he could only do 2.75", I wasn't going to argue. Either way, while it may be a bit heavier than a DSS 3" aluminum one, it's a smaller diameter which means the rotational inertia will be approximately the same or less than the aluminum one. And we all know that in your drivetrain, rotating weight is WAY more important than static weight.

I think you will feel a HUGE difference over the stock 2 piece. My car hardly "chugs" on deceleration now. Definitely worth the $250-300 these things cost!

And I would verify that he will be balancing it to 7000 RPM or greater.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:09 PM   #12
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Yes I talk to the guy, he is saying around 350 because of the price of the flanges and u joints 65 and 60 plus u joints plus dynamic balancing, he said it would easily be good to 9k or more
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
Yes I talk to the guy, he is saying around 350 because of the price of the flanges and u joints 65 and 60 plus u joints plus dynamic balancing, he said it would easily be good to 9k or more
Wow if your going to put $350 into a driveshaft, why not spend $150 more and get the DSS aluminum one. I have been running it for a while now with no issues. Don't know why in your OP you say thats not the way to go.
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Old 06-07-2011, 08:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Wow if your going to put $350 into a driveshaft, why not spend $150 more and get the DSS aluminum one. I have been running it for a while now with no issues. Don't know why in your OP you say thats not the way to go.
It's not the way to go. It's $150 more and it requires beating the underside of your car with a hammer to make it "fit'. And for what? A 3lb static weight saving over a steel shaft? And I'd bet the rotational inertia of the 3" aluminum shaft is comparable or greater than a steel 2.5" shaft. So really, the steel shaft will feel the same or "lighter" than the aluminum one. Additionally, aluminum fails catastrophically. By this I mean when it reaches it's failure point, it fails fast. It does not fatigue well. Steel is much more graceful.

I'm not saying your DSS 3" was a bad purchase, but I am saying that it might not be worth the extra $150 in the OP's case or $250 in my case.
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:26 AM   #15
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I actually did some calculations wrong looks like it will be 300,with u joints included

Also kp are u using this on an r180 or r160, mine pm'ing me more information I. Would like to go into detail more about mine, also it will be 2.5 not 2.75, and dynamic balanced so no rev limit and no real speed limitation. And is more advisable for 450+whp
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:07 AM   #16
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I am about to get this driveshaft made, and have already ordered the slip yoke so I can see how it fits, I did some more research and found out That the stock slip yoke is .995", the spicer is 1.005" so basically .005" all the way around, does anyone know if this will cause an issue??? Also the only correct flange for the rear pinion flange is for the r180, atleast in slicer brand, I may see if there is another brand that will fit the r160 that way I can just swap flanges when I go to the r180
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:43 PM   #17
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Check Nissan parts, there are a few years that Subaru and Nissan used the same parts.

Anyone know what the length of the WRX 5MT DS is? Might as well put that information in this thread.
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:59 PM   #18
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i found a spicer slip yoke that will fit, and then also a rear flange that i can make work, when i have an r180 they have a spicer flange for that, just really need to go get it make, or i may just wait and get the correct spicer flange for the r180 and hurry and do the swap
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:06 PM   #19
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Did you measure your DS from your WRX while it was installed? Supposedly the length of the STI and WRX is similar, but nobody seems to know the length of the WRX 5MT, just the STI and the AT.
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Did you measure your DS from your WRX while it was installed? Supposedly the length of the STI and WRX is similar, but nobody seems to know the length of the WRX 5MT, just the STI and the AT.
Normal 5MT driveshafts are longer than the 6MT/AT version and aren't interchangeable.
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Old 07-20-2011, 06:29 PM   #21
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5mt is 4 inches longer I believe, its in the service manual I can measure mine when I get home you want the total lenght from the end of the yoke, or just from the back of the tranny to the rear diff
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Old 07-20-2011, 09:49 PM   #22
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I had to mock mine up since the car is torn apart but I measured 57" from the flange on the rear diff to the output shaft seal on the trans. I don't have a DS to measure from one part to the another, could you get some measurements and see how they compare? The more measurements the better.

I should note that measurements need to be taken while the DS is bolted up to the diff and trans. Measuring a loose DS doesn't help since it's allowed to flex 1-1.5".

Last edited by ice.xiv; 07-20-2011 at 11:00 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:12 AM   #23
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Well since I did a 6 speed swap I can't measure it.on the car, but both driveshaft shops said measure from the output shaft to the rear diff and if you think about it nothing flexs. I get 54.5 for the auto in the car
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:01 AM   #24
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Can anyone direct me to a DS shop that could make me one?
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:23 PM   #25
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make you one what?

Driveshaft Shop has been having balancing issues with their driveshafts

PST can make you a driveshaft in steel, aluminum or carbon fiber.

You can check their website for the forms and information needed, but they don't work with individuals. You can figure out what you want and go through RallySport Direct.

If you swap an R160 with an R180, and you are using a 5MT, the pinion flanges on the front of the diffs are the same. Same bolt spread pattern.

You can use your 5MT driveshaft with the R180 rear diff. You do not need an Auto driveshaft even though many people say you do.

In other words, the driveshaft is a direct swap

Ask me how I know
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