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Old 07-18-2011, 04:30 AM   #51
AKSubie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchGT View Post
Former BE crew checking in.

Ben I love that you're getting back into this. An STI powered BE would be the ultimate Legacy and something I always wanted to do. I'll be following this one closely.
Can I say "+1" to this?

PHATsuby, I'm glad to see you taking this on and continuing to tinker with the BE platform. And I'm digging the cluster idea.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:02 AM   #52
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Buy the gravels, maybe some authentic centercaps, and see who/if anyone notices. Better yet, see if you're happy with the end result.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:48 PM   #53
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Buy the gravels, maybe some authentic centercaps, and see who/if anyone notices. Better yet, see if you're happy with the end result.
Yea it sucks the there is a 6-8 week wait on the Gunmetallic Gravels.

Part of me wants to buy Gold ones and just see how they look first and if I don't like them just paint them Gunmetallic anyways lol.

Ben
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Old 07-21-2011, 09:07 AM   #54
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Can't beleive I haven't noticed this before now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchGT View Post
Former BE crew checking in.

Ben I love that you're getting back into this. An STI powered BE would be the ultimate Legacy and something I always wanted to do. I'll be following this one closely.
I have to agree with Mitch, glad to see you finally getting back into attacking this swap! This was going to eventually be my plan, but with some of the issues I was having with my BE, I figured it was a better idea to buy a car that already came with a turbo powertrain.

Good luck on the project, looks like you're making great progress thus far!
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Old 07-23-2011, 09:52 PM   #55
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Thanks guys. It is fun to be doing a project again and I'll be excited once it's all done and I can feel boost for the first time in a long time.

Good news to report! I went down for a night to check the motor with my new leak down tester and all cylinders were less than 6% leakage. I also checked the oil pan dent through the drain plug and it looks fine, did not come close to impacting the pick up tube so I'm gonna leave it as is.


I didn't get much else accomplished because the sole purpose was to just check the engine condition to see if I was going to have to deal with fixing the motor. I am breathing much easier now and am excited to move forward. I should be picking up likely all the remaining parts this coming week and I'd like to go down again on saturday to do some actual work.

I picked up a bunch of new Grimmspeed exhaust gaskets since I figured I may as well do it since I have to get some new ones anyways.

Some other deliveries arrived as well.


Getting the lip to work will require some body work if I want to keep the USDM bumper. I'm trying to decide how I want to do it. The lip is wide enough but will not wrap around the back edge of the bumper. Apparently the JDM bumpers are less deep. This will be likely the very last issue I deal with as I'd rather get the car up and running and back together before I work on more aesthetics.

I got my STi spare tire as well so I won't be left stranded! I had a 10" polk Momo sub lying around from years ago when I was more into car audio and I plan to make a fiberglass box for it. It's a 300w RMS sub so it should give a good amount of bass. They are very tight response and high sound quality.


I had planned to get my new interior door panels installed and my new speakers installed also. However I ran into a few issues so I only got one of the new speakers installed. The fronts are basically a direct fit. The rears will require some work. They are Polk DB 651S for the fronts. I am not going to amp them, just run a Sony head unit and have a mono amp for the sub under the seat. I figure if I'm gonna keep this car forever I want a decent setup but least weight and wiring hassle as possible.


That's all for now, I may actually put the car out of commission next week and get as much done as I can. Part of me wants to wait for a full Friday-Sunday weekend and try to pull a 72 hour swap marathon. Likely will not be possible but it would be epic. If I do try it I'll see if I can set up a camera to record it all.

Ben

Last edited by PHATsuby; 07-23-2011 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:14 PM   #56
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UPDATE:

Got a little more accomplished this weekend but again not as much as I had hoped. Ran into a few issues that prevented me from getting more done. One of those issues was not having proper CV bands to make my hybrid axles. Napa had these crappy bands so I'm going to order some ones from the dealer. The other issue was that my intake manifold gaskets came into the dealer but then got sold again so I couldn't put my motor fully together.

Pile of Grimmspeed gaskets. I ran into an issue here as well. After I pulled the exhaust manifold apart, the flanges would not lay flat against the gaskets so it looks like I have leaks at the crossover tube connections. I'm trying to figure out how I should deal with that.


Hard to see but the cylinder 3 valves which are closest to the uppipe are white coated while the cylinder 1,2 and 4 valves are not. Any ideas on this?


Here was a not so fun lesson I learned. I bought a used Spec B clutch being told they were the same as the STi 6mt but they are not the same. This seems odd but is true.


The Sti clutch I got with the tranny is not in great shape but should have some life left in it for now and will be fine at stock power levels. Once I go stage 2 though it could be an issue but we'll see. The surface area of the clutch is clearly larger on the STi clutch.



The sweet union of 6mt and EJ257. Once I get the intake manifold on the heart of the car can be transplanted! I can say that doing all of this work outside the car is much more convenient and it will be very nice to install it all at once.


I worked on the gauge cluster a little as well. I trimmed the Legacy frame so the STi cluster could sit down as far as needed. Now I need to figure out a way to secure the frame to the cluster. If anyone has a good idea on how to do this I would appreciate suggestions. I thought about JB weld but there are too big of gaps. I may use an epoxy sculpt as that seems like the best option right now.

I brought the Baja dash harness up and the Sti gauge harness to work on merging them this week.

Ben
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:23 PM   #57
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UPDATE:

Well I got the gauge cluster wired up as far as I can tell based on my diagram deduction. I won't be soldering or finalizing anything until I can test it.

The fun beginning...


I took the Sti plugs and pig tails to splice into the Baja harness. In hindsight I am kind of pissed because I took apart the old baja cluster so it would have been perfect to try and make a plug and play harness without needing to chop up the Baja harness. Hind sight is 20/20 and I'm not sure I want to spend another $150 on a dash harness...


I"m not sure if label makers will wrap the wire for you but that would be a must have if I was doing the whole harness. Doing these 90 wires was very tedious and I can't imagine doing a full two ecu harnesses.


Yes it looks like a rats nest right now but I will separate it out a bit better once I know it's all hooked up properly. At times when wire color would match up or be close I'd think "hey I'm doing this right" But there are wires that don't match at all haha.



I think the big unknown is the ambient temp sensor. The other positive thing about the prodrive cluter I got(and a reason I got it) was that it supposedly uses the regular ambient temp sensor that goes with the manual A/C models so it SUPPOSEDLY is plug and play for 04 WRX's and the outside temp still works. I really hope this is the case because I like knowing the outside temp and I'll feel more elite if mine works.

As of now I think the plan will be to attempt the full swap on the weekend of the 19th. In the mean time I'll gather some more parts and will need to do some more prep. I did order another item that should be pretty sweet. I need to grab my hood from the dealer and take it down to my garage but the pickup truck I brought up appears to have a bad battery or something was left on. Nothing like having issues with your backup car lol.

Ben
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:46 PM   #58
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Swap is officially under way. I am fully committed now since I already sold my old tranny and rear diff.

Pulled into it's spot for the foreseeable future(hopefully not TOO long). Ready to DO WORK!



started with some interior removal. Had to do a lot of actual throwing away of crap first, and there is still a lot more to toss. Once I finish this my car will be spotless, people will wonder what is wrong haha.



Awaiting removal...


Oh you've arrived. How lovely. JDM bumper that had to be folded to ship. Luckily I am smart and decided to leave it out in the sun to see if it would go back to shape. It's about 98% there. I could do it with a hair dryer but figured I'd like nature do it for me while I kept working. I got the bumper since I figured that would be easier than doing a bunch of body work to make the lip fit. I'll drop these off to get painted on Friday this week after I clean a bunch of crap off the bumper.



Dash removed. Note to self its hard to remove when you forget one bolt...still have a lot to remove to get the wiring out but didn't get as far as I wanted, per usual.


The sign of a project. I bet the neighbors like it.
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:54 PM   #59
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Late night drivetrain removal session.


Here is what happens when you tack weld and grind down most of the welds then let it rust, THEN hit it with a drivetrain, it breaks.


Great success! Get that NA stuff out of there!


What a mess, I have to thank my mom for allowing such things to happen in her garage.


Another reason to thank her as I take up two good stalls...


re-welded and painted the core support with OEM paint I had mixed and put in a spray can. The paint is fine but I'm not happy with my weld job again. I need to adjust my MIG settings and do it again.

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Old 08-15-2011, 11:02 PM   #60
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removing some excess weight...I'm in a dilemma here because my stock spindles only have 40k on them but are rusted as hell. I'd like to get 05+ GT ones with bolt in wheel bearings but i am not sure if the geometry is different. That would also add another significant amount of money to the project so I'll probably hold off for now and do it later after I recover a bit more.



BE legacy crossmember compared to 2006 Sti crossmember and rack.


Sti crossmember bolts right up naturally. I cut the spline off the legacy rack and put it on the STi rack and have it resting there in the photo.


I need to adjust this more. The angle is not correct and is causing binding when I turn the wheel so that is the next step to solve. I believe I should be able to just cut down the legacy spline a little more and solve the issue but I will have to look at it some more. If anyone has a nice clear photo of their stock angle they want to post that would be helpful as I forgot to take one.



The only other concern is that the Sti one is coming out of the crossmember at a different angle than the legacy so it would not be possible to get the right angle without binding. Anything is possible of course but it will require some tacking and cutting to figure out.

Ben
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Old 08-17-2011, 02:38 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by PHATsuby View Post
Thanks Fibuz,

It's likely fitting you were first as you are probably the only one still around that remembers the H6.

You'll probably be the only person posting here haha.

I'll still be posting either way.

Ben
I also remember the h6 project. A shame it was not completed. Suscribed for the end result of round two.
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Old 08-19-2011, 05:02 PM   #62
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I also followed the H-6 thread. I am sending good vibes for a speedy swap. Nice XKE.
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:05 PM   #63
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Looks like an awesome project!
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:30 PM   #64
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I also remember the h6 project. A shame it was not completed. Suscribed for the end result of round two.
x2

I definitely remember that H6 idling video being about the coolest sound I'd heard. So close...
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Old 08-22-2011, 09:31 PM   #65
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Not tons of new stuff to report. I made general progress but finished nothing, which is highly annoying.

Just the tip. I started to work on the exhaust but didn't have any jackstands to hold things in place. Harbor freight has them for 12.99 a pair right now but naturally the one in Rochester isn't open yet. I'll pick up a couple sets for when I go back down and should be able to mock up the exhaust then.


Front hubs/knuckles/spindles or whatever you want to call them. I'll be cleaning these up with a wire wheel and putting some POR 15 on them to try and help keep them from rusting any further.


this was a big pain in the ass getting the legacy spline welded on the STi rack. Since my life and my passenger's lives will depend on my welds I am going to also add a metal sleeve that will span the two pieces and weld that in place as well as drill holes in the sleeve to do plug welds. This should ensure there is no way it will be breaking into two pieces. In looking at this photo it appears slightly crooked but I don't feel like it does in person. Either way it doesn't seem to cause any binding when I turn my wheel at the moment.


the bulkhead harness is about 90% unplugged. As you can see I got all the HVAC stuff removed so I could get at things. I'm really hoping I can just lay the Baja turbo harness in and things plug in as expected but I'm sure that won't be the case.



I made another discovery that my JDM bumper that looks exactly like the bumper that works with the lip I bought, does not in fact work with the lip I bought... So I will be going sans lip. It's not all bad though because I still think it looks pretty good, almost has a built in lip already. I opted to go with this one even though it was going to be more to paint.

Also added to the fun was that some how while my mom was cleaning out the garage my turbo hood scoop got thrown away that was in it's unopened box... So I had to order a second one and the hood/bumper and scoop will be painted this week.

The other obstacle was being able to put the STi bushings into my control arms to work with the STi crossmember. This proved to not be possible with the way I planned to do it with my vice. It also could not be used in a regular press due to the odd shape. Luckily I found a place that claims they can do it but we'll see.

I may be able to go down and do more work this weekend but I"m not sure yet. If not I will be stalled for another couple weeks.

I'm hoping at some point things will accelerate and all come together nicely. I won't hold my breath

Ben
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Old 08-22-2011, 10:24 PM   #66
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Nice work, Subscribed
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Old 08-23-2011, 12:17 PM   #67
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try powerflexusa.com for bushings. i have almost all of them for the 2000-2003 legacy. worth every penny.
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Old 08-23-2011, 12:47 PM   #68
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try powerflexusa.com for bushings. i have almost all of them for the 2000-2003 legacy. worth every penny.
Thanks, the only one I'm really concerned about right now is the lower control arm bushing because I need the wider STi one to go with the STi crossmember. If the rear diff clunks then I may need to upgrade the rear bushings so I appreciate the info!

Ben
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:46 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by MitchGT View Post
Ben I love that you're getting back into this. I'll be following this one closely.
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Originally Posted by MDRSK View Post
Another BE crew member who remembers your B6 efforts. Will be keeping an eye on your new project.
+1

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Apparently the JDM bumpers are less deep.
Significantly so. I can attest to that

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Old 08-29-2011, 09:50 AM   #70
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Omahasubaru, the sedan bumpers must be the ones that are less deep or I'm just an idiot, which is possible. My bumper looks like yours but the lip does not fit, it seems to be as deep as the USDM bumper. I believe mine is a JDM BH bumper though.

I got a little bit of stuff done this weekend, again not as much as wanted. A lot of hang ups prevented me from really finishing anything to completion which is getting annoying.

this is the one thing I did "finish". The steering rack. I took a steel collar and drilled a few holes in it on each side of my original weld to do some rosette welds then completely welded around the top and bottom. Doesn't look super pretty but there is no way that thing is breaking in a catastrophic way that wouldn't do in an OEM one as well. Nice and safe.




This prevented me from finishing the control arms: seized ball joint. I still haven't gotten it out, I'll have to tackle on the next try in a couple weeks. If anyone has tips feel free to let me know.


The STi bushings are finally in the BH aluminum control arms! Ready to be installed now.



instead of putting the drivetrain in from the top, which is a pain I figured I would try and slide it in from below(that's what she said..uh wait)


Great success! I needed 28" of clearance to do this and it was basically right at 28.


Another delay. I went to assemble my sweet suspension but realized I left one of the top hat spacers up at my apartment. Fail. I also am not totally certain if they are necessary, I believe they are but the STi instructions that are in japanese do not show them in the exploded view but all other USDM setups seem to have them and those are the top hats I'm using. If anyone knows please let me know!


I did finish the rears though. Sweet.


Sti drivetrain now resting in my car!


6MT goodness FTW, I got the STi short shifter as well since I loved it so much previously. I'm pumped to be able to drive it again.


Sadly the mechanical parts are "easy" and they still took me a long time. It doesn't help though when you install the engine mounts backwards, have to drop the crossmember again to fix it. And one of the studs for the crossmember nut was damaged so you have to cut off the crossthreaded stud. I'll be getting a replacement at a junk yard.

One apparent issue, or maybe its just a trick of my eye is that the alternator looks very close to where the hood would be or possibly over. It appears to be tightened up higher than my stock motor. Maybe I'll swap belts and see what happens.

No word on if my hood and bumper are done but they will be going on last obviously. That is it for now. I'd really love to try and finish it up over labor day but I am going to Michigan with the GF so it will be on hold till I get back.

Ben

Last edited by PHATsuby; 08-29-2011 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 08-29-2011, 01:47 PM   #71
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Omahasubaru, the sedan bumpers must be the ones that are less deep or I'm just an idiot, which is possible. My bumper looks like yours but the lip does not fit, it seems to be as deep as the USDM bumper. I believe mine is a JDM BH bumper though.
There are different type codes for the various JDM bumpers. The front lips must corelate and in some cases the differences are subtle. My bumper is also from a wagon (BH). It was called a Type E iirc. I can look up the different types again (has been well over 5 years ago) and get you the info if you need it.

The JDM bumpers are much more shallow than the OE bumper. They look better because of that too. I was able to mount mine by merely removing the OEM foam. I did not have to modify the beam at all.



I hope you like those bilsteins better than I. I was running iON springs + KYB GR2s for over 3 years before the KYBs seemed to get soft. I splurged for the Billy Sports about a year ago and immediately my ride comfort went south. I did new KYB upper mounts at the same time so that all was fresh/new. I'm too far into them $ wise to just give up and move on, but I'm not pleased. They are quite over dampened for the springs I have and don't seem to jive well w/ the progressive nature of the iON springs. I'm am hoping to do coilovers in 2012 or perhaps send them out for a revalve, we'll see. Can't really justify the $$ right now.

Thanks - Jon

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Old 08-29-2011, 02:09 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by omahasubaru View Post
There are different type codes for the various JDM bumpers. The front lips must corelate and in some cases the differences are subtle. My bumper is also from a wagon (BH). It was called a Type E iirc. I can look up the different types again (has been well over 5 years ago) and get you the info if you need it.

The JDM bumpers are much more shallow than the OE bumper. They look better because of that too. I was able to mount mine by merely removing the OEM foam. I did not have to modify the beam at all.



I hope you like those bilsteins better than I. I was running iON springs + KYB GR2s for over 3 years before the KYBs seemed to get soft. I splurged for the Billy Sports about a year ago and immediately my ride comfort went south. I did new KYB upper mounts at the same time so that all was fresh/new. I'm too far into them $ wise to just give up and move on, but I'm not pleased. They are quite over dampened for the springs I have and don't seem to jive well w/ the progressive nature of the iON springs. I'm am hoping to do coilovers in 2012 or perhaps send them out for a revalve, we'll see. Can't really justify the $$ right now.

Thanks - Jon
Hi Jon,

Yea I think we have the same bumper after looking at your car. I was thinking you had a lip on yours but I guess not. I think it looks good as is! So you had to run it without the foam insert? I think I just did that on accident when test fitting so that is good to know I can't have it in there for when I re-install it.

You got the Bilstein HD's? I know you said Sports but as far as I know they only make HD's which are supposed to be for stock springs. I hope they perform well too, I have always read good reviews but maybe people just don't know what good suspension is. Going form 8k/8k coilovers though and a lot of noise I think I could handle a quiet and softer set up although I know that is not the issue you were talking about. I think the Sti springs are 3k in the front so I'll be like a grandpa. I'm hoping I am happy with them considering the cost otherwise I'll be in the same boat as you.

At least they look cool right? Thanks for the info!

Ben

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Old 08-31-2011, 09:50 PM   #73
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my freshly painted hood, scoop and bumper were picked up today. Sorry they aren't great quality but I'm excited to get them on the car once it's all finished!






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Old 09-07-2011, 12:13 PM   #74
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You got the Bilstein HD's?
What ever is available from tirerack. Probably was HDs. They = for me.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:09 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by omahasubaru View Post
What ever is available from tirerack. Probably was HDs. They = for me.
Why were the Bilstein HD's a disappointment? Was it due to the Ion springs?

PhatSuby: Please take pics of your car once you get the suspension installed. Thanks
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