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Old 12-11-2011, 09:41 PM   #1
thefoos
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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02 WRX BW EFR E85
7064 TS WRB

Default The Foos's BW EFR 7064 build

I thought I would start a thread here as I know there are a number of guys wanting to follow along on this build.

For a bit of background on this car. Its a 2002 WRX, with a 2006 6 speed. Stock 2.0L longblock, 170k miles on it and the chassis. I drag, auto-x, and enjoy doing test and tunes at road tracks. I know I won't be able to push this turbo to the limit on my current motor, but, its what I have to work with at the moment.

Pics of the turbo sitting between a VF43 (left) and a TD04 (right)....




Making room for this big boy....


Honestly, I'm going to guess that it is going to take the rest of the month to get this in with all of the fab work I've got to do. I'm an engineer, not a professional welder, so please excuse the welds that at times look piss poor. They are solid, just sometimes not so pretty.
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Last edited by thefoos; 12-11-2011 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:42 PM   #2
thefoos
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It might seem like a small thing but it clears up a lot of space for a rotated setup. Power steering return line is now routed on the frame rail and the high pressure line is routed under the manifold where the turbo inlet for a stock location used to be....



Also, the JDM TS header I bought a while back was jerked over (sorry, I mean, in the words of the person I bought it from, modified to fit an 06 oil cooler), so I'm reworking the header to remedy the nasty kink and twist they put in a runner...



The beginnings of my uppipe...
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:45 PM   #3
thefoos
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7064 TS WRB

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These weren't the final mock up pictures. It wasn't quite where I wanted it (I moved it forward and down a bit more, and leveled out the oil drain the best I could). But it gives you the general idea. I played around with other mounting/positioning ideas, and at the end of the day, there is a reason why the "normal" rotated position has become the standard. I'm planning to have the uppipe fab done in the next few days. Its all downhill once I get that nailed down.

I had to remove the 3 port that comes with the turbo, and carve off the mounting features on the compressor cover for it to get it positioned right.





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Old 12-11-2011, 10:08 PM   #4
seanathanq83
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looks awsome man i am using the twinscroll header as well, but i had a complete up pipe made, what fitting did you use to go into the power steering pump??? i have been trying to do this but havent found exactly what the fitting is
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:21 AM   #5
Bariga
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contact P&L they sell bolt on line!
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:27 AM   #6
seanathanq83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga
contact P&L they sell bolt on line!
Yea lol but I dont think they will tell me the fitting they use, I work at a place where I can make all my own lines so I would just have to buy that one fitting, or might even have it lol. Nice setup though keep up the pictures, you have your Turbo sitting where mine is, I would advise moving it up a little more incase you go with a bigger setup that's the issue I think I am going to have
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:32 AM   #7
thefoos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
looks awsome man i am using the twinscroll header as well, but i had a complete up pipe made, what fitting did you use to go into the power steering pump??? i have been trying to do this but havent found exactly what the fitting is
Here is what I used. I haven't run the motor yet with this setup, so I haven't verified that it is leak free. I'm not exactly happy with how the M14 to 6AN fitting mated up to the original power steering fitting. It doesn't feel like it seated out right. I might need to shave off .030-.040" to get good compression on the threads. We will find out if it worked right when I get it fired up.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-620401/
qty 2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-632610/
Used about 2.5 ft
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640820/
qty 1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UIS-8021550/
qty 1

I have seen it done differently, without the banjo. Just stick another M14x1.5 to 6 AN fitting in the power steering pump and use a 90* 6AN fitting, but I don't like having aluminum in a high pressure line. I couldn't find a steel metric to AN adapter, so I had to put one in still. Only one is better than 2 I guess
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:39 AM   #8
thefoos
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7064 TS WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
Yea lol but I dont think they will tell me the fitting they use, I work at a place where I can make all my own lines so I would just have to buy that one fitting, or might even have it lol. Nice setup though keep up the pictures, you have your Turbo sitting where mine is, I would advise moving it up a little more incase you go with a bigger setup that's the issue I think I am going to have
I just reviewed the literature again. I thought all of the "B2" frame turbos were externally the same size. The 7064 and 7670 are, but the 8374 is a bit bigger. I wanted the turbo as low in the engine bay as possible, in the standard rotated location. I don't see myself going bigger. So it'd be a stretch to see myself even going up to a 7670 let alone a 8374.

Last edited by thefoos; 12-12-2011 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 06:08 PM   #9
scOOtNsOOby
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little off subject but with your powersteering line you made did you use a restrictor? I really want to make my own power steering line like you did but i keep hearing that you need a restrictor. Im curious too see when you run it, if it makes a difference.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:58 PM   #10
thefoos
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7064 TS WRB

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Quote:
Originally Posted by scOOtNsOOby View Post
little off subject but with your powersteering line you made did you use a restrictor? I really want to make my own power steering line like you did but i keep hearing that you need a restrictor. Im curious too see when you run it, if it makes a difference.
It does not. I'll certainly report on it. If it causes an issue, I'll have a restrictor machined and install it in the banjo most likely. I remember reading about it a while back, but it was just a noise issue, right? What size is the restrictor in the stock line? I don't feel like cutting my stock line apart....
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:12 PM   #11
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There is no restrictor in the line. I made my own and they work just fine. What was the reason for buying the huge ass iwg version instead of the normal housing and using a larger ewg?
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:30 PM   #12
seanathanq83
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Cool, yea I am planning on using a male metric to male JIC. I have steel fittings, my only issues is I believe I only have -4 JIC fittings but it could be drilled to a -5 and the use a high pressure crimp -4 to -5 90 pm me and I can send pictures, I will look tomorrow and see if I have to -5 or -6. I can send you one if you want to try it instead of the banjo
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:39 PM   #13
scby rex
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Sorry to thread jack, theres a thread to all the sizes used. Some of the info is bs though about restrictors and what not. Use -6 the whole way.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...d+tired&page=8

Last edited by scby rex; 12-12-2011 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:08 PM   #14
juanmedina
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sweet build
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Old 12-13-2011, 02:53 PM   #15
thefoos
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02 WRX BW EFR E85
7064 TS WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex View Post
There is no restrictor in the line. I made my own and they work just fine. What was the reason for buying the huge ass iwg version instead of the normal housing and using a larger ewg?
Thanks for the info. Reduced cost and simplicity drove me to IWG. Normal housing? Do you mean the ungated twinscroll housing or the IWG singlescroll? I wanted twin scroll for sure. Higher turbine efficiencies coupled with a larger A/R equals better spool and top end. Have your cake and eat it too....

Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
Cool, yea I am planning on using a male metric to male JIC. I have steel fittings, my only issues is I believe I only have -4 JIC fittings but it could be drilled to a -5 and the use a high pressure crimp -4 to -5 90 pm me and I can send pictures, I will look tomorrow and see if I have to -5 or -6. I can send you one if you want to try it instead of the banjo
I might have to do that if this line doesn't work out. As long as it doesn't leak, I'll be happy

Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex View Post
Sorry to thread jack, theres a thread to all the sizes used. Some of the info is bs though about restrictors and what not. Use -6 the whole way.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...d+tired&page=8
I remember going through that thread a long time ago. I haven't bothered to go back through it. Thanks for the link. Had I gone through it more recently, I probably would have opted for this....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-372024/?rtype=10

Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
sweet build
Thank you. Made some progress on the uppipe last night. Fab works takes too long. But I'm making sure I spend as much time as necessary on the uppipe since it is going to determine where everything else ends up....
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:47 PM   #16
scOOtNsOOby
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good info to know then on the powersteering line! Yea i went through that same thread and it was going back and forth. Cant wait to see some numbers.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:26 PM   #17
thefoos
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7064 TS WRB

Default

Progress is slow...I was able to sneak out into the workshop for an hour or so today while the baby napped and the older kid bombed around in the back yard. I finally have the turbo located where I want it. I'll be building a fixture to finish the uppipe, and I started in on the downpipe to make sure I liked how it was going to fit....

I was hoping to retain the stock coolant header tank for now, and you can see it will fit.



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Old 12-17-2011, 06:46 PM   #18
albersondh
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What are you using to cut the 304 with? I use a HF horizontal/vertical band saw. Its a POS, I go through blades like water.... I use it for stuff I should be using a more industrial sized unit on though. What TIG are you using?
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:11 PM   #19
thefoos
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What are you using to cut the 304 with? I use a HF horizontal/vertical band saw. Its a POS, I go through blades like water.... I use it for stuff I should be using a more industrial sized unit on though. What TIG are you using?
I just use a standard 14" chop saw (abrasive wheel). I'll go through a wheel or two during the course of a project of this size. At $4-5 a wheel, its not bad. And you can pick up a decent chop saw for $50-100. It makes for more cleanup than a good band saw would though. If you are using standard blades on your bandsaw, one pass with stainless is a sure fire way to destroy a blade.

I have a Miller Sychrowave 180. Great old welder. None of the new wiz bang features, which is what I wanted when I was learning. I didn't want technology compensating for my poor knowledge and technique.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:36 AM   #20
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Sweet welder. I actualy learned on a Dynasty (in school), and some very old touch start Millers. I got an Everlast (Chineesee) combo machiene. All the features of they Dynasty with a 60A plasma and stick attachments. Knobs though not all buttons like the Dynasty. Also has a two-touch option (button on the torch) for welding out of position. Its a great feature for mock-up work when you cant get to the pedal. Adjust ramp-up, max current, ramp-down, and post gas, then just hit the button.

I have a chop saw but getting perfectly square cuts on angles is a lot easier with the band saw, and there is very little clean up. I go through blades when Im doing 4x4 junk, usualy .25 1018 2.5x2.5 or .187 4x4, way outside the range I should be cutting with this crappy band saw, Im too lazy to set up the plasma for just straight cuts....

I picked up one of those bench top HF sanding discs like this worth its weight in gold when getting those rough cuts square for tight welding of tube joints. Your finished project is going to be awesome. Your planning is spot on.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:07 PM   #21
Ninja007
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Subscribed. Out of any turbo on the market, I want to see what this one can do the most. Eventually it might find its way onto my built SOHC built 2.5L. We engineers seem to take forever with everything, damn us, but at least we get it right the first time Anyways, thanks for blazing new trails I watch with anticipation.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:19 AM   #22
thefoos
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7064 TS WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by albersondh View Post
Sweet welder. I actualy learned on a Dynasty (in school), and some very old touch start Millers. I got an Everlast (Chineesee) combo machiene. All the features of they Dynasty with a 60A plasma and stick attachments. Knobs though not all buttons like the Dynasty. Also has a two-touch option (button on the torch) for welding out of position. Its a great feature for mock-up work when you cant get to the pedal. Adjust ramp-up, max current, ramp-down, and post gas, then just hit the button.

I have a chop saw but getting perfectly square cuts on angles is a lot easier with the band saw, and there is very little clean up. I go through blades when Im doing 4x4 junk, usualy .25 1018 2.5x2.5 or .187 4x4, way outside the range I should be cutting with this crappy band saw, Im too lazy to set up the plasma for just straight cuts....

I picked up one of those bench top HF sanding discs like this worth its weight in gold when getting those rough cuts square for tight welding of tube joints. Your finished project is going to be awesome. Your planning is spot on.
Honestly, for the small volume of work that I do, my chop saw has worked very well for me, for both aluminum and stainless. I'd highly recommend just a standard 14" chop saw for someone that only wants to buy one tool and doesn't do a lot of work. I agree though, it would be fantastic to have all of the right tools. I keep my eye on Craigslist and try to pick up tools/equipment here and there like this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninja007 View Post
Subscribed. Out of any turbo on the market, I want to see what this one can do the most. Eventually it might find its way onto my built SOHC built 2.5L. We engineers seem to take forever with everything, damn us, but at least we get it right the first time Anyways, thanks for blazing new trails I watch with anticipation.
We do tend to take our time. But as you mention, its well thought out and generally done right.

Pictures of the intake manifold and tgv's will be up, hopefully tonight. Nothing unusual, just tgv deletes, sand blast, and powdercoat. My buddy Joe is welding up the header repair and finishing the welding on the aluminum CAI that I fabricated. I should have pictures of that up in a few days as well....
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:04 PM   #23
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Good stuff. I can't wait for the EFR to be more readily available so we can see more results out of them.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:29 PM   #24
thefoos
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7064 TS WRB

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Finally made some progress worth showing. A few days ago, I did all of the pie cutting and fit up for the turbo intake and my buddy Joe (PrecisionCustom here on nasioc) did the welding for me since my home setup didn't have the guts to weld it together. I'm happy with how it turned out. I've still got to add 3 bungs (wastegate control return, purge, crankcase vent) and then its back to Joe for powdercoat....





Next up will be the uppipe I've been meaning to get to this week. I'll finally be able to tackle that after Christmas. I'll also have the port/powdercoat work to show on the manifold/tgv deletes.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:08 AM   #25
PrecisionCustom
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WRB

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Turned out great. Can't wait!!!
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