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Old 06-30-2011, 03:15 PM   #1
D0nets
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Default Another DIY Boost Leak Tester - Home Depot and AZ parts

All of these parts can be purchased at Home Depot and Autozone. The parts list has color coded letter labels to match the diagram.

Parts List: https://spreadsheets.google.com/spre...EE&output=html

Basic Instructions:

1) cut the 2 foot of 3/8" vaccume line into 2 separate pieces
2) put a "Watts 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. Brass Compression x MIP Adapter with Insert" at each end of both hoses
3) drill 2 x 3/8" holes in the 2" pvc plug and then screw each of the hoses into the 2" pvc plug
4) insert the 2" pvc plug into the silicone coupling and tighten it
5) unscrew the stem cover from the tire pressure gauge to reveal a 1/8" threaded fitting
6) screw the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter fitting onto the 1/8" threaded fitting on the tire gauge
7) screw the tire gauge onto the other end of one of the hoses
8) screw the 1/4" male compressor npt fitting into one of the sides of the 1/4" on/off ball valve
9) screw the other end of the ball valve onto the remaining end of one of the air hoses

Note: be sure to use thread tape on everything

Diagram:





Performing the Boost Leak Test:

1) Disconnect and plug the bottom hose on the purge control solenoid, the PCV, the crankcase breather hose, and remove the oil cap
2) Remove the aftermaf and connect the tester to the turbo inlet
4) Make sure the tester's on/off ball valve is in the off position
3) Connect your compressor to the tester's 1/4" npt fitting and set the compressor's regulator to a little over what you want to fill the system with
4) Turn the the tester's on/off ball valve to the on position and fill to your desired psi and then turn it off
5) Listen for hissing and use soapy water to help locate leaks
6) Fix leaks
7) Drink Beer



Quote:
Originally Posted by eminehart
I decided to write up the proper steps to all this


Turbo Inlet the correct way.
Well, the correct way to do it cap off 3 lines to the inlet hose, The PCV, the crankcase breather and the evap purge solenoid. Basically the only hoses going to the inlet that stay are the BPV recirc and the boost control solenoid return.
1. The easy one is the Evap Purge solenoid(on the inlet at the front of the car),
2. The pcv Is still easy. The breather hoses go from the inlet to each side of the engine. pull these off the tube on each side of the engine and cap them off.
3. The Crankcase breather. This is tricky to get to and requires removing the pcv valve from the hose running to the block and blocking off the line at the pcv valve. You will have to remove the intercooler to access this.
4. Remove the Oil Cap.

If you have a Grimmspeed AOS installed you just made life easier. Steps 2, 3 and 4 can be skipped and replaced by removing the middle hose on your AOS. and plugging off the hose. You have effectively removed the oil cap because the Center line is left open.
Just a note though the lines going to the AOS are never designed to see boost so you may hear boost leaks here but they are not important.

With other catchcan setups you basically disconnect the lines running from the inlet to the catch can and block them off, Skipping steps 2, and 3. You will still have to remove the oil cap.


Quick and Dirty Inlet testing
The not recommended or endorsed but quick and easy way is to do it. This is a use at your own risk kind of thing.

1. disconnect the line running to the evap purge valve and plug it off.
2. pressure test the inlet but only to about 10 PSI or so. It will most likely not cause damage to the cam seals and you will be able to hear most leaks. Be aware that there are many tubes not designed to hold boost and these shouldn't be worried about.

FMIC leak testing
Now if you are Front mounted the easy way to go is to disconnect the boost tube to the turbo and apply pressure here, You should also remove the oil cap.
Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps.


Ryan
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Last edited by D0nets; 02-23-2012 at 12:12 AM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:52 AM   #2
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yours looks way more baller than the one I have... very nice! I have a threaded wheel inflater stem for feeding lp air... works fine but I definitely dig your set-up.
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:20 AM   #3
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very nice
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Old 07-04-2011, 11:09 AM   #4
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Yeah Thats deff a sweet setup...
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Old 07-05-2011, 09:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RS drifter View Post
yours looks way more baller than the one I have... very nice! I have a threaded wheel inflater stem for feeding lp air... works fine but I definitely dig your set-up.
Could you post a picture or a link of your threaded tire valve stem? I have been looking for a threaded one but it seems like most of them have some type of gromet with a nut.
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Old 07-05-2011, 09:50 PM   #6
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I added some basic testing instructions to the top post.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D0nets View Post
Could you post a picture or a link of your threaded tire valve stem? I have been looking for a threaded one but it seems like most of them have some type of gromet with a nut.
It's called a schrader valve. Most Home Depots and Lowes carry them in the plumbing section.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:50 PM   #8
D0nets
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I couldnt find any on their website but I found this on froogle.com: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...gn=4X4products

Something like this can be interchanged with the 1/4" male npt fitting for people who dont have compressors but have a tire air pump.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:27 PM   #9
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Your not going to find it online. It's going to either be with all the brass NPT fitting stuff or the in ground sprinkler/well pump stuff.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quazimoto View Post
Your not going to find it online. It's going to either be with all the brass NPT fitting stuff or the in ground sprinkler/well pump stuff.
Ok I will check when I am there next. I really dont need it since I have a compressor but I was going to build one for someone who only had a tire pump.
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Old 07-06-2011, 06:07 PM   #11
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definatly need to make one of these for my car
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Old 07-12-2011, 10:59 PM   #12
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Man, that is nice!

I have a tupper ware cup with a male quick connect fitting sealed with a nut on the inside.

The gauge and valve is a great idea. I'm always running back to the compressor to get the right psi .
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:46 PM   #13
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Now this is how it should be posted!

Thank you for taking the time to document and provide us with parts.

This is the way a DIY thread needs to be written.
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:18 AM   #14
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Awesome thx, you could nstall the gauge in the pvc plug to save on components, also you are missing one component the part that protrudes on the othervside of the silicon coupler opposite side of the PVC plug.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 07-20-2011 at 03:27 AM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:25 AM   #15
D0nets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Awesome thx, you could nstall the gauge in the pvc plug to save on components, also you are missing one component the part that protrudes on the othervside of the silicon coupler opposite side of the PVC plug.
That was just the little metal coupler that goes inside my inlet. I took it out of the inlet for the picture.
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:33 PM   #16
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Why you are not including tHe metal coupler as part of the Bill of materials? Its important dont you think?
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Why you are not including tHe metal coupler as part of the Bill of materials? Its important dont you think?
Its part of the Turbo Inlet. You dont need to buy it to build the device.
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Old 07-24-2011, 10:52 AM   #18
D0nets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Why you are not including tHe metal coupler as part of the Bill of materials? Its important dont you think?


Yes, read up... This is part of my gimmick inlet, not the boost leak tester. This wasnt something I had to buy.
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Old 08-02-2011, 02:47 PM   #19
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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most people don't have a gimmick inlet so some people wont know how to attach to their inlet.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:38 AM   #20
D0nets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
most people don't have a gimmick inlet so some people wont know how to attach to their inlet.
The tester fits over the stock inlet. The stock inlet is the same outter diameter as the metal coupler for my gimmick inlet.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D0nets View Post


Performing the Boost Leak Test:

1) Disconnect and plug the bottom hose on the purge control solenoid
2) Remove the aftermaf and connect the tester to the turbo inlet
4) Make sure the tester's on/off ball valve is in the off position
3) Connect your compressor to the tester's 1/4" npt fitting and set the compressor's regulator to a little over what you want to fill the system with
4) Turn the the tester's on/off ball valve to the on position and fill to your desired psi and then turn it off
5) Listen for hissing and use soapy water to help locate leaks
6) Fix leaks
7) Drink Beer

Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps.

Ryan
It's this silly part I'm unsure of... I made something similar to this out of a PVC pipe cap and rubber valve stem... same deal, no gauge (used the boos gauge)

But I kept getting this "hoooonkkk" sound over 7psi IIRC...

So I'm guess I missed the purge solenoid step and/or don't understand it...

I need a lil'lesson..

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:02 PM   #22
D0nets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
It's this silly part I'm unsure of... I made something similar to this out of a PVC pipe cap and rubber valve stem... same deal, no gauge (used the boos gauge)

But I kept getting this "hoooonkkk" sound over 7psi IIRC...

So I'm guess I missed the purge solenoid step and/or don't understand it...

I need a lil'lesson..

Thanks
http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php...html#msg275993

Eric has a good tutorial for what to disconnect. I will be adding his steps to the first post of this thread.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:48 AM   #23
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for the FMIC one, you attach the tester to the turbo correct?
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:15 PM   #24
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you have to test pass turbo or the turbo seals will leak.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:38 PM   #25
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You have to test everything past the MAF sensor all the way to the heads.

Soapy water and 1 kPa and I find my leaks every time.



Here's mine.










Last edited by 68Cadillac; 02-17-2012 at 01:05 PM.
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