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Old 11-21-2012, 10:51 AM   #51
Crazyspeedfreakz
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:15 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyspeedfreakz View Post

pics added .....
If it was my car - I'd disconnect the lines at the catch can. I'd also take off the oil cap. This will prevent the crankcase from pressurizing. If excessive pressure builds in there (bad), it can blow a cam seal.

I would then fill it up with about 10psi of air and check for leaks.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:38 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acejam2k

If it was my car - I'd disconnect the lines at the catch can. I'd also take off the oil cap. This will prevent the crankcase from pressurizing. If excessive pressure builds in there (bad), it can blow a cam seal.

I would then fill it up with about 10psi of air and check for leaks.


Thanks for the info acejam
Ok so just disconnect the catch can & remove oil cap. So that will allow heads and crank to breath .. What about the take off on the top front of the Turbo intake that goes to boost solenoid is that safe to leave on ? I thought I had to cap some points off to allow the system to pressurise

Also I keep reading about disconnecting the purge valve, is this only on later Newage impreza's

Is there anything I have to do when finished or is it just a case of putting everything back together


Many thanks for your replies acejam ... It's dark here in the uk now cannot do the test till tomoro
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:54 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyspeedfreakz View Post

Thanks for the info acejam
Ok so just disconnect the catch can & remove oil cap. So that will allow heads and crank to breath .. What about the take off on the top front of the Turbo intake that goes to boost solenoid is that safe to leave on ? I thought I had to cap some points off to allow the system to pressurise

Also I keep reading about disconnecting the purge valve, is this only on later Newage impreza's

Is there anything I have to do when finished or is it just a case of putting everything back together

Many thanks for your replies acejam ... It's dark here in the uk now cannot do the test till tomoro
The newer STI's have multiple hoses coming off the turbo inlet. Typically you remove them and plug the holes. However as the first post states, the boost control solenoid return line stays plugged in. Since that is the only line you have coming off the turbo inlet, I don't think you have to disconnect/plug anything. (On the inlet)

Does that make sense?
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:11 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acejam2k

The newer STI's have multiple hoses coming off the turbo inlet. Typically you remove them and plug the holes. However as the first post states, the boost control solenoid return line stays plugged in. Since that is the only line you have coming off the turbo inlet, I don't think you have to disconnect/plug anything. (On the inlet)

Does that make sense?


Perfect sense .. Thanks buddy, this pesky boost leak has been bugging me for a few weeks now
So will be glad hopefully to sort it... Will report back and let u no how I get on


Thanks again
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:10 PM   #56
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. Unfortunatly I only had a spare hour this evening to see if I could find the leak, done everything as above but it would not pressurise ... I have a good few hours tomoro to see if I can find this leak and why it's not pressurising .... But any thoughts from you guys & girls why it might not be pressurising would be great ..
I'm using a electric pump just wounding how long it generally take to pressurise the system ?

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:25 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyspeedfreakz View Post
. Unfortunatly I only had a spare hour this evening to see if I could find the leak, done everything as above but it would not pressurise ... I have a good few hours tomoro to see if I can find this leak and why it's not pressurising .... But any thoughts from you guys & girls why it might not be pressurising would be great ..
I'm using a electric pump just wounding how long it generally take to pressurise the system ?

Thanks
Don't even bother with a pump at first. Depending on your hose/valve setup, try blowing into it with your mouth. I had a big leak on my car and was able to find it that way without even needing a pump. Of course I hooked up the pump after the leak was fixed to test again.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:49 AM   #58
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There is no way I can blow into it as there is not enough room lol..right i have most of the day to sort this so fingers crossed ...

The turbo intake pipe I have has 2 takes offs 1 for the recirc valve which is already closed off as I have a dump valve and the other is for the boost solenoid return pipe which I have left on.
Apart from this I have no takes as I have a catch can fitted my set up a line from crank breather to catch can and then the head breathers t peiced to 1 line and that going to the other port of the catch can hopfully that all makes sense..

I removed the air intake pipe so I can fit the leak tester, then left the pump running for about 10 mins and it will not pressurise the gauge dose not move and I can feel that the pipe work is still soft so no pressure

I have disconnected the catch tank pipes from the catch tank (these are not bunged) and also removed the oil cap

I'm at a loss for now but will keep on it see if I can figure it out
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:51 PM   #59
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Which inlet hoses need to be blocked off?

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Old 02-03-2013, 02:21 PM   #60
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Thanks for the great DIY

Here's how mine came out!

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Old 02-03-2013, 06:27 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by curtisboes View Post
Thanks for the great DIY

Here's how mine came out!
Where did you get that hose and what size is it? Also, how about those end connectors? I couldn't find the hose in the OP parts list, so I ghetto rigged mine with some clear hose. However my hose goes into the end connectors, not outside with clamps like yours.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:38 PM   #62
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All those fittings can be had easily at Home Depot. And the picture says its 3/8" Hose.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:04 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
All those fittings can be had easily at Home Depot. And the picture says its 3/8" Hose.
Is that 3/8" ID or OD? I bought all of the fittings in the parts list, but I have a hard time believing the hose could fit "inside" them.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:08 PM   #64
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Hose size is usually OD.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:21 PM   #65
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If you guys want an even cheaper and dirtier method, try this out.

1: Take used fuel filter

2: Thread compressor hose coupling into old filter

3: Attach to inlet

4: ???

5: Profit!
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:36 AM   #66
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fun fact here, and im just trying to help by saying this, but with compression fittings like the op's ""2) put a "Watts 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. Brass Compression x MIP Adapter with Insert" at each end of both hoses"", you do NOT use Teflon or thread tape to secure the compression fittings. anything that has a crush washer on it you simply tighten until they do not leak, or replace. putting tape on the threads just hinder the ability for the fitting to tighten, thus preventing leaks. so if anyone has tried to check their tester and been like "wtf.... my leak tester is leaking?!?", this is why. I hope that helps someone

also it is very important for any fitting to leave the last two threads of the fitting unwrapped of thread tape/teflon tape. otherwise under pressure there is a chance for particles of the Teflon tape to be sent downstream of the fitting.... and any debris downstream of your leak tester is bad, so its best to just be cautious.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D0nets View Post
All of these parts can be purchased at Home Depot and Autozone. The parts list has color coded letter labels to match the diagram.

Parts List: https://spreadsheets.google.com/spre...EE&output=html

Basic Instructions:

1) cut the 2 foot of 3/8" vaccume line into 2 separate pieces
2) put a "Watts 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. Brass Compression x MIP Adapter with Insert" at each end of both hoses
3) drill 2 x 3/8" holes in the 2" pvc plug and then screw each of the hoses into the 2" pvc plug
4) insert the 2" pvc plug into the silicone coupling and tighten it
5) unscrew the stem cover from the tire pressure gauge to reveal a 1/8" threaded fitting
6) screw the 1/4" to 1/8" adapter fitting onto the 1/8" threaded fitting on the tire gauge
7) screw the tire gauge onto the other end of one of the hoses
8) screw the 1/4" male compressor npt fitting into one of the sides of the 1/4" on/off ball valve
9) screw the other end of the ball valve onto the remaining end of one of the air hoses

Note: be sure to use thread tape on everything

Diagram:





Performing the Boost Leak Test:

1) Disconnect and plug the bottom hose on the purge control solenoid, the PCV, the crankcase breather hose, and remove the oil cap
2) Remove the aftermaf and connect the tester to the turbo inlet
4) Make sure the tester's on/off ball valve is in the off position
3) Connect your compressor to the tester's 1/4" npt fitting and set the compressor's regulator to a little over what you want to fill the system with
4) Turn the the tester's on/off ball valve to the on position and fill to your desired psi and then turn it off
5) Listen for hissing and use soapy water to help locate leaks
6) Fix leaks
7) Drink Beer





Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps.


Ryan

Last edited by scooby717; 02-17-2013 at 02:05 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:22 PM   #67
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Gonna make me one up this week!
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Old 04-24-2013, 04:28 PM   #68
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Bump for a useful tool, pics, and where to find everything at a cheap cost. Built mine exactly as op directed.

Thanks
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:25 PM   #69
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What to do use to cap off the necessary parts of the turbo inlet? Rubber caps? What size?
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:06 PM   #70
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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^Get a kit of assorted rubber plugs at any autoparts store.

Anybody tried the leak testers on Ebay?

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 05-21-2013 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:20 PM   #71
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i made this this week,

i have a 2012 wrx and i cannot find the evap purge ( looks like a circle and 2 nipples coming out?)

i also cant find any of the hoses to cap off on the intake side. someone help !!
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:04 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badams118 View Post
Which inlet hoses need to be blocked off?

Quoted because I want to know too

Is it just the three red?
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:56 PM   #73
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I tried this but I was NOT able to build any pressure in the system. I hooked up my boost leak tester which I bought pre-assembled from a vendor. I plugged the three holes of the turbo inlet. No matter how hard I pump I cannot get the pressure gauge to bump up even the smallest bit.

What am I doing wrong? Car is a 2002 WRX MT with basic boltons.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:43 PM   #74
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Good post OP. You motivated me to do it. An FYI - they had a different part number for that valve at my store. Here's link:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-G...6#.UfrxD5J9Dng
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:33 PM   #75
D0nets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galager View Post
Good post OP. You motivated me to do it. An FYI - they had a different part number for that valve at my store. Here's link:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-G...6#.UfrxD5J9Dng
Yea I noticed that last time I had to build one. I couldnt find the smaller ball valve. They seem to only have larger sized ones. They are still 1/4, but the handle and the housing are just larger.
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