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Old 07-05-2011, 11:26 PM   #26
Power6
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Originally Posted by deanesn View Post
Come on what? This is solved at this point. Buy DEI 530t and instal.
Like I said if I feel adventurous this weekend I will pop both doors and compare the wiring and motors. Let's hope they don't match the 2010 part numbers. If they are different then we might get away with just swapping switches which I doubt at this point.
You don't even have to pop the doors to compare the motors, they have wiring diagrams in the service manuals. The previous motors have two wires, which are swapped between +/-, mechanically by the window switches, as you would imagine for up/down operation. The driver's door wires to the motor run through an "auto amp" which handles the auto-down operation.

2011 driver's door motor now has six wires, two for the motor as before, one grounded to the body and then three wires for the feedback operation. The motor and feedback wires now go through a "window controller" inside the window switch, and the switch button itself connects signal inputs that go to the window controller. The principle of operation, and the hardware, are completely different from the other windows. The remaining windows operate via the traditional method where the switch mechanically connects +/- directly to the motor.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:17 PM   #27
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So this could be done if you installed the motor from the driver's side window into the passenger's side, wired appropriately of course. This would allow you to use the Maxima dr/pas auto up/down switch as well as install an auto up/down switch in the passenger's door.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:26 PM   #28
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here's what i found.


QuoteQuote from: JourdanWithaU on February 20, 2011, 07:36:04 AM
Whoa whoa whoa whoa... I want that. How do I get that? Please tell, you have proven to be the master of the awesome rare creature comforts.

The easiest way is to buy 2 DEI 530T window modules and take them to your alarm installer and tell him to have at it.

If you are familiar with wiring and maybe an alarm install you could install these. They are primarily made for alarm installers because they can take inputs to open/close/vent the windows from an alarm brain. But they also provide automation from the switches so you can install them without and alarm. Each module works 2 windows, so for 4 windows you need 2 modules.

Basically what you are doing is splicing the DEI module into your window wiring so that the switches become a "request" to the DEI. Hold the switch down, and the window opens/closes until you let go. Tap it quickly and the DEI sends the window down/up at your request. The DEI "listens" for motor noise and resistance to confirm the motor is moving, then clicks off when the window reaches the end of its travel or pinches a finger. It is not prefect, so there are some dip switch adjustments for the "strength" of the closing.

Now there are a bunch of ways to wire this...the "proper" way would be to run wires into each door from the DEI modules and tap just after each switch. This is the only way to get auto operation from all switches. I chose instead to just wire it all in the drivers door from the driver's switch, so the auto up/down only works from there, because I am fairly lazy, and also because I did not want to have to explain how the window switches work to passengers, when what I really wanted was just auto from my switches.

DEI suggests, and I did wire from the battery for the module. It didn't make the windows any faster, but one nice feature is that the window switches are powered by the ACC but the window module is always on. The windows don't work when the car is off, but if you "request" the windows to roll up when parking, you can take the key out and exit the car while the windows are still rolling up.

I actually have more neat window tricks coming in the spring but that is for future post.

If anyone does want to install a DEI 530T or two, I think I still have my wiring notes around, I can tell you what to tap to what in the drivers door to install. I'll need to scan them or type them up.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:27 PM   #29
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Guess i was wrong. I heard the new 2011 had both windows auto down feature. I'll go and look around.
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:54 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by O.C.D. View Post
Ummm, ok then my window would have stopped doing that months ago when I disconnected the battery.

I can't imagine that working.
It certainly does. The auto feature needs to be programmed after a battery disconnect.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:38 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Power6 View Post
You don't even have to pop the doors to compare the motors, they have wiring diagrams in the service manuals. The previous motors have two wires, which are swapped between +/-, mechanically by the window switches, as you would imagine for up/down operation. The driver's door wires to the motor run through an "auto amp" which handles the auto-down operation.

2011 driver's door motor now has six wires, two for the motor as before, one grounded to the body and then three wires for the feedback operation. The motor and feedback wires now go through a "window controller" inside the window switch, and the switch button itself connects signal inputs that go to the window controller. The principle of operation, and the hardware, are completely different from the other windows. The remaining windows operate via the traditional method where the switch mechanically connects +/- directly to the motor.
Let me see if i get this right? Are you saying that i should be able to use the switch from Nissan Maxima since it has the window controller in the window switch and just run the extra cables from the passenger door to the driver's door? I don't have as much knowledge as you do but I understand basic electronics. Looking at both motors they look identical unless I'm just blind and like you said the principle of operation and the hardware are completely different so let's say the motors are the same, as long as I have the 4 way switch and the window controller I should be able to make the passenger window automatic. Note still running a cables over.

This is an observation note since I can't confirm from just looking at images online. The window regulator and motors of the Maxima look identical to ours for the exception of the regulator looks a bit different but the motors look definitely the same. Also to add to this, on the Maxima all the pins have cables on the plugs for the window switch and on ours there are 2 cables missing. My guess since i don't have service manual is that one of the cables is for the window feedback for the passenger window and the other i don't have any idea. I could be all wrong about this whole thing. I've ordered my DEI 530t and I'm gonna have fun this weekend.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:39 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by deanesn View Post
Update on the auto front window. I found a pic of the 2010 Nissan Maxima and front windows are auto.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deanesn View Post
Come on what? This is solved at this point. Buy DEI 530t and instal.
Like I said if I feel adventurous this weekend I will pop both doors and compare the wiring and motors. Let's hope they don't match the 2010 part numbers. If they are different then we might get away with just swapping switches which I doubt at this point.

so is everyone looking just for the front windows to go down or all the windows?

im looking for all the windows

edit part: i moded my drivers side window buttons so the 2 top buttons move the left side windows and the bottom 2 move the right side. did it with out blowing a fuse and i pulled out the pins. if you want to do this i can go look at my wire color and post or send in message. if you ask

Last edited by sars101; 07-06-2011 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sars101

so is everyone looking just for the front windows to go down or all the windows?

im looking for all the windows

edit part: i moded my drivers side window buttons so the 2 top buttons move the left side windows and the bottom 2 move the right side. did it with out blowing a fuse and i pulled out the pins. if you want to do this i can go look at my wire color and post or send in message. if you ask
Personally I just look for both front to be auto. If you look for all you can do what power6 did and actually I like the idea of hooking up the windows to the battery directly.
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Old 07-09-2011, 02:06 PM   #34
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Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the driver side window?
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Old 07-10-2011, 09:38 AM   #35
Power6
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Let me see if i get this right? Are you saying that i should be able to use the switch from Nissan Maxima since it has the window controller in the window switch and just run the extra cables from the passenger door to the driver's door?
No, I am saying the whole thing isn't worth it. It won't work unless you replace switches, window regulators, and re-wire your window system. And then you'll still have an orange lighted Nissan switch where Subaru uses red ;-)

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I've ordered my DEI 530t and I'm gonna have fun this weekend.
Now you're cooking with gas! Let us know how it works out!
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Old 07-10-2011, 01:33 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Power6

No, I am saying the whole thing isn't worth it. It won't work unless you replace switches, window regulators, and re-wire your window system. And then you'll still have an orange lighted Nissan switch where Subaru uses red ;-)

Now you're cooking with gas! Let us know how it works out!
the regulators won't be necessary because you can reset the regulator and I'm pretty sure you will have to rewire only 3 cables.

The only thing I will hate with the DEI is that you lose manual cuz it's 2 way switch. I guess I can deal with that.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:28 PM   #37
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the regulators won't be necessary because you can reset the regulator and I'm pretty sure you will have to rewire only 3 cables.

The only thing I will hate with the DEI is that you lose manual cuz it's 2 way switch. I guess I can deal with that.
Not sure I follow you on the first part, I haven't looked at the regulator, I had assumed the feedback sensor etc. is integral with the motor, so you'd need an auto up/down regulator, you can't just add wires to a non-auto regulator motor, because the feedback stuff isn't there. Have you seen different?

On the second part, it is not that bad, the DEI is sorta smart. If you or your family ever owned an old Audi with auto windows you will know exactly how to work it.

You click the switch quickly for auto operation, if you hold it down, that cancels the auto operation and it will stop when you release the switch. If you "auto" the window, and you change your mind, you can quickly flick the switch in the opposite direction, and it will stop. For the most part it does what you want, only when you are trying to "crack" the window it can be hard, you have to quickly flick it down to start the auto down, and then flick it back real quick to get it to stop right away.
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