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Old 10-24-2011, 06:54 PM   #26
URABUS07WRX
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try some heavy duty compound if that dosent work hit it with 3000 grit wet sand paper they compound and polish it and it should look good as new
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:07 PM   #27
fancyfootwork15
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Originally Posted by URABUS07WRX View Post
try some heavy duty compound if that dosent work hit it with 3000 grit wet sand paper they compound and polish it and it should look good as new
Try a polish first. Always use the least abrasive method first. A "heavy duty" compound is most likely not needed. A compound with a medium to high grade cut will work but is most likely not needed.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:29 PM   #28
jonboy96706
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I use bugs b gone by seafoam. Picked it up at advance autoparts. It works great on bugs and bird droppings. It won't damage the clear coat and paint. As far as paint sealant goes, I use maguiers cleaner wax (3 coats). Use microfiber towels for removal, than meguiars tech wax 2.0 (1 coat) use terry cloth to remove wax. Buff lightly for deeper shine after. I than use meguiars ultimate detailer in between washes. Than I use ultimate spray wax if needed. Simple yet effective. I have no problems with my paint. 11 WRX STI WR BLUE.
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:52 PM   #29
fancyfootwork15
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Originally Posted by jonboy96706 View Post
I use bugs b gone by seafoam. Picked it up at advance autoparts. It works great on bugs and bird droppings. It won't damage the clear coat and paint. As far as paint sealant goes, I use maguiers cleaner wax (3 coats). Use microfiber towels for removal, than meguiars tech wax 2.0 (1 coat) use terry cloth to remove wax. Buff lightly for deeper shine after. I than use meguiars ultimate detailer in between washes. Than I use ultimate spray wax if needed. Simple yet effective. I have no problems with my paint. 11 WRX STI WR BLUE.
I've never used "bugs b gone by seafoam" so I can't comment on that However, Meguiars Cleaner Wax isn't a sealant... its a cleaner wax. Why wouldn't you continue to use a microfiber to remove Megs Tech Wax as opposed to a terry cloth? You shouldn't have to do any "light buffing" after removal to get a deeper shine.. the shine you get from the product would be instant after wiping off the wax.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #30
boilermaker29
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Originally Posted by fancyfootwork15 View Post
I'm wondering if you just had an off case of high-acidity? Are you positive the etching wasn't on your paint prior to applying the sealant and wax? Depending on how deep the etching is a polish could solve your problem.
Yes I'm positive it wasn't there before, and I wiped the dropping off, and this bird didn't poop in exactly the same spot, with same splat pattern as one of the previous marks

It has been this way for the 7 months i've owned the car and have taken it to the east coast and back. The clearcoat on the hood has an etched streak in it from where a bug hit the front and the juice rolled up.... I wasn't about to go find a car wash in the middle of west virginia because a bug hit my hood...

I guess I can start looking at polishing compounds, but that's not really a solution to the problem as there wont be any clearcoat left after three years at this rate.

Maybe there isn't a solution other than getting the car resprayed once it gets bad enough
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:01 AM   #31
jay3737
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welcome to subaru paint! my '06 is covered with "battle scars" ... i just consider them badges of honor. i have found if i don't catch the bird crap within an hour or two - too late.
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:35 AM   #32
Kean
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....as Aspenscoob mentioned, many waxes/sealants are really just a sacrificial barrier in relation to this type of problem. Some are better than others in regard to certain characteristics but most will only do "so much" when it comes to damaging contamination.

Personally, I would try another sealant if you feel the DGPS isn't working out for you. I have had really good success with two coats (with a week of curing time between each) of FinishKare 1000P when it comes to resilience and contaminant shedding ability. ….better than DGPS IMO/IME although I like both for various reasons.

Another alternative may be one of the newer coatings that are becoming available to the average consumer. There are semi-permanent/nano coatings that will last ~1-2 years that are more durable than the average sealant and then there is something more permanent like Optimum Opti-Coat. One of the problems with the latter is that you need to make sure the finish is in a state that you are happy with prior to applying the product. I suppose this is true with most “last step products” (LSP’s) but especially true with OC considering it really is permanent. Also, even though OC may be tougher and more resilient than your factory finish, it is not immune to scratches. Correction will require abrasive processes just as it would with your clearcoat. ….as will removal of the product since it is unaffected by (paint safe) harsh cleaners and chemicals. A couple of advantages to this is that the product sheds contamination quite well and you can also use some products you normally wouldn’t due to concerns of removing the existing LSP. ….might be something to look into.

As for polishing your existing blemishes, I wouldn’t worry too much about removing your paint in 2-3 years. ….especially by hand using moderately abrasive compounds/polishes. Using a product like Meguirs Scratch-X will likely help remove or at least diminish the appearance of the damage you’ve shown with an insignificant impact to the thickness of your finish. I recall a test years ago where a fellow member (on a detailing forums I frequent) used a paint thickness gauge on a test car during various steps in a very aggressive process to correct the finish. While the difference was measurable, it wasn’t as much as many of us thought it would be. ….in this particular case, there is really no cause for concern IMO/IME. Btw, I fully corrected my 8 year old WRX at least 6 times using a DA and the finish still looked great (with the exception of the pitted front bumper/hood) when I got rid of it last year.

…..I thought I would add that I currently have OC applied to my Forester and DGPS on my Challenger. I was previously using FK1000P on the Forester and still use it on wheels, exhaust tips, etc. It is one of my favorite LSP’s among the others I like and still use.
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fancyfootwork15

Uh.. Yeah it does etch. Hence why it is a protective layer.

You are right though that immediate removal of anything on your paint is the best alternative.
Etching is a word, by definition, used to refer to "marks" acidic/corrosive chemicals leave on hard surfaces when allowed to dwell. Sealants/waxes are dissolved almost immediately after contact with said chemicals. Therefore, no, LSP does not "etch" it is removed.

Now, I am not writing this to argue with you. I simply want to allow everyone to understand exactly what etching is.

Last edited by AspenScoob255; 10-26-2011 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:29 PM   #34
URABUS07WRX
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your right i was just looking at the way that would definitely get it out. should have made the polish suggestion first. ty for the correction

Quote:
Originally Posted by fancyfootwork15 View Post
Try a polish first. Always use the least abrasive method first. A "heavy duty" compound is most likely not needed. A compound with a medium to high grade cut will work but is most likely not needed.
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Old 10-26-2011, 03:56 PM   #35
axleon2
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Originally Posted by SubieDugie View Post
When you guys say Mothers' 3 step system, are you referring to their Ultimate Wax system? If you are trying to removing bird etching with that system, by hand, it's not going to happen. Whether by hand or machine you need to use a cutting pad and a compound or swirl remover to level the paint around the etchings. But, you all are right to be careful when using compound on Subie paint, whether by hand or machine. I cut through a clear coat crack on my 05 hood, by hand, using the cutting side on a German applicator and Pinnacle's XMT 4 compound. I would wash the car clay the area with the defect, then use the pre-wax cleaner, and follow that with a swirl remover and a cutting pad. Keep an eye on your work by wiping the area clean of polish/compound and making sure you are not cutting through the clear. Sometimes a true filler glaze is the best way to cover the defect if you are not willing to risk removing too much clear coat paint. Then put a quality paint sealant over it. I recommend you guys use a paint sealant, not just a wax, to mitigate these etchings. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze are two of my favs and very durable. You can top these with your fav carnauba wax to add a layer of protection and shine/gloss. Always remove contaminants like bird droppings and bugs ASAP to prevent etching. Keep a quick detailer, spray-on car wash, or glass cleaner, with a clean, quality microfiber clothe in the vehicle to take care of these contaminants while on the road.
Hope all goes well with these issues.
P.S. And posting pics would help to diagnose a solution as well.
This guy sounds well versed.
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:53 PM   #36
Redeemed
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Wierd, my paint seems perfectly fine after a bird poop'd on my wing 2 days straight in the same damn spot. I just washed it off while washing/detailing the car. Will the color make a difference? Mine is SSM.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:05 PM   #37
fancyfootwork15
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Originally Posted by Redeemed View Post
Wierd, my paint seems perfectly fine after a bird poop'd on my wing 2 days straight in the same damn spot. I just washed it off while washing/detailing the car. Will the color make a difference? Mine is SSM.
The color of your paint shouldn't/won't make a difference. You have a clear coat on top. Some people say that certain paint colors/blends are tougher but i've never seen any prove of that. The only difference the color of your car makes is that silver hides blemishes very well whereas black shows everything.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:18 PM   #38
SubieDugie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axleon2 View Post
This guy sounds well versed.
This is funny, because I was about to bring up a point I already made until I saw axleaon2 quoted me already. Thanks!
To let you know how bad/acidic bird droppings and bugs are, even the manufacturers of the nano/polymer technology coatings state to remove dropping and bugs ASAP(i.e. within hours of it happening). All you have to do is keep a small spray bottle of rinse-less/spray-on car wash and a mf in the vehicle and as soon as you see it clean it off. You can also keep some all-in-one in the vehicle too so you can clean it extra good and seal the paint again; in case you won't be returning to your supplies at home.
The term you guys are looking for when it comes to sealants adhering to the paint is "bonding". The cleaner the surface and more products you use that are from the same manufacturer as the lsp(i.e. wax, sealant, coating) you us the better the bond will be. This means a final wash before applying wax or sealant, or a wipe down with IPA(dilluted to 10-15%) or CarPro's Eraser will remove the polishing oils and give you a clean, dry surface for the lsp to bond to. If any lsp isn't allowed to cure completely away from moisture/dew and high humidity, for at least 8 if not 12-24 hours, then the proper bond may not occur and the life span/durability of the lsp will be diminished.
Coatings are the way to go for soft paint, but it still requires you to remove acidic things as soon as you see them. One thing that will help you guys with these etch marks that are through the paint is a Dr.Colorchip kit. Once those spots are covered with the kit you can prep the paint and apply a coating. If you are considering a coating of any sort do your homework. And if you have major paint correction that needs to take place first contact a pro detailer to at least help you through the process. It is not best to just let is all go, since maintaining your paint is much cheaper than repaint your vehicle. Maintain paint with Dr.Colorchip kit, coating, and necessary polishes and equipment: approximately $400. Repaint to factory standard or better: approximately $2000, and you still have to deal with the defects left by the paint and body people. I'm just saying. There are options, but in the long run the latter is not as cheap as one may want to believe.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:57 AM   #39
SamSmart
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My Ex's LGT had the same issues and his was an 05. Thankfully my 01 doesnt have the best paint anyway and I could care less about a etching. If I buy the 2011 Lightning Red STI I was looking at I will have to keep a better eye on it.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:42 AM   #40
kjcolby1978
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my 2011 paint sucks... tire shine that slings on the side leaves behind yellow stains that wont come out, and I have 2 coats of Collinite on mine applied when new
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Old 10-31-2011, 01:36 PM   #41
Kean
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Originally Posted by kjcolby1978 View Post
my 2011 paint sucks... tire shine that slings on the side leaves behind yellow stains that wont come out, and I have 2 coats of Collinite on mine applied when new
….this problem is not Subaru-specific. It occurs on other makes/models as well. The simple solution is use a water based tire dressing that won’t sling (or stain if it does) and/or re-examine your application method.
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:01 PM   #42
Amnizu
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Please keep us updated on the correction. FWIW, it looks to me like that should come out with a random orbital, an orange lake country pad and a mid cut polish like Menzerna 83 or Meguiars's 205.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:51 PM   #43
boilermaker29
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Update, back in December (thank you mild winter) I did a full wash with Dawn to strip the old stuff off and tried two coats of Zaino Z5 with the accelerator, and a top coat of Z-CS and it seems to have solved the durability problem I asked in my first post. I'm now able to use a detailer to wipe off droppings within a day or two and not have damage.

I may just take it to a detailing shop to deal with the existing marks. I'm not sure I'm comfortable with cutting into this pathetic paint.

Last edited by boilermaker29; 03-24-2012 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:42 PM   #44
Chris223
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I hope my 2012's paint is better than this. Reading all this awful stuff being said about Subaru's paint scares me now having just spent a lot of money for my 2012 Impreza. A car that I can't simply afford to get rid of in 3 years or so, I bought it with the intention of it lasting me at least 6-7 years before I even consider moving on. But I also am a detailer by hobby and love making sure my car is the cleanest and best looking on the block. I'll be mightily disappointed if a bird bomb ruins my cars paint because it sat on the car for an afternoon. Biggest reason I bought the thing was I thought Subaru had a great reputation for quality. My dealer told me a lot of people who buy their first Subaru never go back to another brand. My old neighbor bought nothing but Subaru's for over 25 years.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:10 PM   #45
Zachfeen
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I haven't any issues to date, and at one point while my ship was underway, my car got dive bombed by a flock of birds. It was there for at least a week and didn't leave any etching. Guess its a car by car basis
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:26 PM   #46
erik11876
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The paint used by all manufactures now days is pretty bad. I had a Mitsubishi eclipse, THAT car had much worse paint than this car does. I had the whole front end resprayed under warranty due to the clear coat peeling off in chunks. For what it's worth, I had a minor etch from bird poo last year that came out with relative ease using zymol cleaner wax. I've been using Adams hand polish, glaze, and zymol carnauba and no bird poo has penetrated that mixture. Ford paint has been decent, except the black. Honda paint has been nothing short of craptacular on the wife's civic and my Acura integra I owned.
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