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Old 07-10-2011, 12:09 PM   #1
SubieSG2057
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Question Wax Buffer

Quick question where is a good place to buy a wax buffer instead of online because today my dad and i are going to use it today on this perfect sunny day to clean his Porsche? I looked up online and only found sears and Autozone. I don't want to spend like fortune on one. Any suggestions or help would be much appreciated.

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Old 07-10-2011, 12:56 PM   #2
Kean
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I have seen Porter Cable polishers sold at home improvements centers in some cases but even so another challenge can be getting your hands on good pads and backing plate(s). Your best bet for trying to source a decent machine/accessories locally will likely be a detailing supply shop.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #3
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i have one of These that works pretty well. I think you can get one at autozone or something.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazeebo
i have one of These that works pretty well. I think you can get one at autozone or something.
Im always supportive of tools, products and techniques that folks feel works for them, but I have got to say that there is really no comparison between a good DA (like a PC 7424XP, Grists 6", Flex 3401, etc.) and the machine you have linked to.

....and yes, I have tried a 10" (like that one) back in the day.
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:33 AM   #5
SubieDugie
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That's funny to me. Your dad owns a Porsche and you want to use the cheapest machine to buff wax off it. Thing is that most waxes these days are (WOWO) wipe on wipe off. So it is probably more work to use a cheap orbital. Unless the paint is very clean and has most the defects removed, the wax isn't gonna look any better regardless how you put it on or take it off. Sorry if I am being judgmental or anything.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:29 PM   #6
SubieSG2057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
Im always supportive of tools, products and techniques that folks feel works for them, but I have got to say that there is really no comparison between a good DA (like a PC 7424XP, Grists 6", Flex 3401, etc.) and the machine you have linked to.

....and yes, I have tried a 10" (like that one) back in the day.
Well what about consumer report? And isn't 10" kind of big for a car? I mean like you would use that on a boat or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieDugie View Post
That's funny to me. Your dad owns a Porsche and you want to use the cheapest machine to buff wax off it. Thing is that most waxes these days are (WOWO) wipe on wipe off. So it is probably more work to use a cheap orbital. Unless the paint is very clean and has most the defects removed, the wax isn't gonna look any better regardless how you put it on or take it off. Sorry if I am being judgmental or anything.
Well he told me specifically not to buy anything too expensive and just wanted to try it. Its his money so he doesn't care. And don't be sorry about being judgmental. I wasn't really specific on the first post. Cause the buffer can be used for waxing, polishing, or compound.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:00 PM   #7
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieSG2057 View Post
Well what about consumer report?
Are you saying as a source to choose the right buffer for your needs? I would personally suggest visiting a few detailing websites/forums to gather that information instead (i.e. Autopia.org, DetailingBliss.com, Autogeekonline.net, etc.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieSG2057 View Post
And isn't 10" kind of big for a car? I mean like you would use that on a boat or something.
That would be my opinion (too big and bulky). I even have a problem with the limitation of my Flex with it’s 5.5” backing plate (you’re sort of stuck with using 6.5” pads although I think they have a smaller plate available these days). That’s one of the reasons I kept my Porter Cable 7424 so I can use 4” pads on narrower pillars, bumpers, etc.

To be honest, I wouldn’t even use something like that 10” on a boat or large surfaces. Typically, those cheap polishers are underpowered and ineffective for any sort of real correction. ….they’re merely good for applying wax and even then I would prefer to do it by hand if I had to choose.
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:05 PM   #8
Kanchou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieDugie View Post
That's funny to me. Your dad owns a Porsche and you want to use the cheapest machine to buff wax off it. Thing is that most waxes these days are (WOWO) wipe on wipe off. So it is probably more work to use a cheap orbital. Unless the paint is very clean and has most the defects removed, the wax isn't gonna look any better regardless how you put it on or take it off. Sorry if I am being judgmental or anything.
... imma have to disagree with the back end of that.

I do agree, prep counts the most.

But after thats established, the key to a good finish coat is even distribution of the product across the surface. A machine is better at controlling this distribution rate far better than daniel-san's arm alone.

A RA buffer is not comparable to a RA polisher in terms of speed and flexibility, but its still faster and better than manual...
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:50 PM   #9
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanchou View Post
... imma have to disagree with the back end of that.

I do agree, prep counts the most.

But after thats established, the key to a good finish coat is even distribution of the product across the surface. A machine is better at controlling this distribution rate far better than daniel-san's arm alone.

A RA buffer is not comparable to a RA polisher in terms of speed and flexibility, but its still faster and better than manual...
....I think you meant "RO" or "DA" (random orbital or dual action) vs. "RA".

As far as applying LSP's (last step products; waxes/sealants), I kind of agree and disagree with both of you. IMO/IME, it really depends on the product being applied and personal preference.

Personally, unless I'm using an AIO or a product that tends to be a little more challenging for me to lay down evenly/thinly, I prefer to apply most of my LSP's by hand. WOWA’s are obvious but even with a WOWO like Wolfgang Fuzion, I find litlle benefit to applying it via DA. It’s so workable, fast and easy to apply/remove.

A product like FK1000P on the other hand, I can see where a DA would help (and why folks like Mike from AA prefer to do it this way). …..although I still have reservations since that product in particular has a tendency to cake up in crevices, stain trim, etc. In that case it would depend on the vehicle (I might even still consider using the DA on the larger panels and do the pillars and some edges, paint near seams, etc. by hand). It really depends and the reason I say it’s not really a cut and dry answer (for me at least).

Side note: Just to clarify on the topic of WOWO’s for the benefit of others…. WOWO does mean wipe on, wipe off. However, when most folks refer to WOWO they are talking about products like Fuzion that you apply and then remove with little or dwell/set time. Many traditional products most folks are used to are “wipe on, let haze/dry for a period of time and then wipe off”. WOWA = wipe on, walk away. You literally just apply and let the product flash dry on it’s own (i.e. Ultima Paint Guard Plus, Optimum Opti-Seal, Zaino CS, etc.).
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