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Old 07-11-2011, 12:09 AM   #1
furiouswrx
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Turtle Wax Car Wash (The Big One) with microfiber sponge
The Absorber chamois
Meguiar's Quik Detail + 80oz clay bar
Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Car Wax (Liquid) + foam applicator
Meguiar's Quik Wax on all glass surfaces
Vacuum
Turtle Wax Leather Cleaner & Conditioner
Black Magic Wet Tire Spray
Lots of microfiber cloths and 4 hours later in the shade...





















Finally washed off all of that oily stuff the dealer put on for delivery. This is my first time detailing a car - I used to only use the Turtle Wax Wash & Wax stuff on my Hondas before.

Any advice from the seasoned pros? I noticed that some small amount of the wax whitened some small parts of the rubber grommets around the sunroof and windows - how do you remove that? It also left some white residue on rough plastic like the bumper cover.

For the interior, do you just use a dry MF cloth to wipe off dust? How about how to get rid of scuff marks from shoes on the plastic door cards and glove box cover?

The car is 2 weeks old with 650 miles, mostly highway. I already noticed some road oil building up on the paint under the wheel wells- what do you recommend using to remove it? I was thinking Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover (or the equivalent from Meguiar's)

Thanks in advance for the advice.
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:15 AM   #2
2011WRXMT
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Looks good i just washed mine today i guess you could say i did a light detail. I have bugs all over the front end still though and i used the rainx bug tar remover. Maybey if i drive fast enough itll blow em off LOL.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:45 AM   #3
foolycooly
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looks good OP--I love that color.

Dried wax can be hard to get off of black trim and will only get worse over time (I still have some stains on mine from my first wax). I would try using an all-purpose cleaner (APC) such as meguiar's APC+ and a microfiber or brush. It will take some elbow grease, but the stains can be removed.

Tar can be removed with any number of products, but I have had good results with einszett bug and tar remover (link)

The interior of our cars is sort of a pain. The door cards are made of pretty cheap material and scuffs are very difficult if not impossible to remove. I've had the best luck with an APC and lots of scrubbing. As for dust and dirt-- a dry quality MF every time I wash keeps everything looking good.
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:10 AM   #4
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Looks great OP, can you come do mine?
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:48 AM   #5
Aeronneous
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Looks great! You've got the right idea with the Meguiar's products. I used to clean a few corporate jets in between jobs, and alot of what we used came from them! The bug and tar remover works great too. Nothing like trying to remove bugs that got stuck on at 600 mph...
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:59 PM   #6
furiouswrx
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Thanks for the advice, folks. I'll give Meguiar's All Purpose Cleaner and Bug and Tar Remover a shot. More pics in the sun to come later
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:08 PM   #7
turboman38
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Dealer told me not to wax the car for a month to let the paint cure. I just picked my 2011 SWP WRX up this past Saturday. Any truth to not waxing the car to allow the paint to completely cure?
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Old 07-30-2011, 11:09 PM   #8
914-2.4L
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I know what you mean about the road grime from the tires. I found that using some XPEL protective film works great. I also just purchased 2011 limited 5dr. This is the forst wite car I've owned and its driving me crazy.

Russ
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Old 07-31-2011, 04:08 AM   #9
SubieDugie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman38 View Post
Dealer told me not to wax the car for a month to let the paint cure. I just picked my 2011 SWP WRX up this past Saturday. Any truth to not waxing the car to allow the paint to completely cure?
Yes, paint needs 30-60 days to cure (VOCs need to off gas and needs oxygen to cure). That being said, the car was probably painted at least 30 days before you bought it unless you picked it up right after the dealer got it off the ship from Japan. The dealership do more damage buffing new paint jobs than you can do by washing and waxing a new car. If a car has been sitting at a dealership for a month then you are safe to wax it by now. I would recommend checking the paint to see if it needs to be clayed before waxing it, and at least apply a pre-wax cleaner before waxing/sealing the paint. To check to see if the paint needs to be clayed you can put a sandwich baggie over your hand and gently rub it over the paint to feel for any grittiness. If you don't feel anything then you can safely apply a pre-wax cleansing lotion and/or polish the paint, then wax/seal.
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:47 AM   #10
turboman38
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SubieDugie thanks for the tips. I got the car a week after it came off the truck. I have only waxed the front bumper since there were a tone of bugs on it. Hope I didn't hurt anything.

914-2.4L where can I get this film you are talking about and how does it get applied?

The dealer offers a teflon coating they buff into the paint but that will not prevent chips.

Has anyone applied scotchguard to their interior? I got the premium because I like the clothe seats better than leather but they will stain easier.
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:33 PM   #11
ElevenEsTiEye
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car looks great!!
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:15 PM   #12
reide181
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Try Turtle Wax ICE Total Interior Spray in the tall blue bottle for the plastic panels in the interior, you can also use it for you leather. Then try Mothers Back-to-Black in the red bottle for your trim. I also use it on my engine plastics and it makes my car look brand new.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:36 PM   #13
lovin' it
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Looks very niceZ!
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Old 08-05-2011, 01:43 AM   #14
Darth Wagon
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Looks great! That's my favorite color on the newer hatches. I see that you got the door guards, I don't think I've seen those before. They look good. I also noticed that you bought it @ Carlsen, I bought my 07 there in January, and have spent the last 7 months trying to remove the rattle-can paint that some dealership asshat sprayed all over the wheels and red calipers. Oh and check your oil level, mine was at least a quart high.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:52 AM   #15
914-2.4L
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Default Xpel Products

Quote:
Originally Posted by turboman38 View Post
SubieDugie thanks for the tips. I got the car a week after it came off the truck. I have only waxed the front bumper since there were a tone of bugs on it. Hope I didn't hurt anything.

914-2.4L where can I get this film you are talking about and how does it get applied?

The dealer offers a teflon coating they buff into the paint but that will not prevent chips.

Has anyone applied scotchguard to their interior? I got the premium because I like the clothe seats better than leather but they will stain easier.

Turbman,
You can find it at http://www.xpel.com/products/default.asp

It is pretty easy to work with. I made some cardboard templates of the area behind the front tires and other areas of concern.
Before you begin you want to have the paint and your hands clean and dry.

I also made some masking tape templates of the interior door handles and used Xpel on them as well. I haul stuff in the cargo area (Bikes, guitar gear...) and strached one of my door handles slightly. From that point I said no more so I went to work with the Xpel.

This sounds like a commercial...sorry, but they make the stuff in gloss and satin finish. I would use the dull finish on the interior.

Russ
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:14 AM   #16
Subydude81
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You can wax the, it doesn't. The paint dried, cured before it even left the factory i'm sure.
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:00 PM   #17
SubieDugie
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I don't know how long cars sit a the factory after being painted/assembled but if it isn't at least 30 days it isn't enough time for it to completely cure. Considering how soft Subie paint is I would give it 60 days before I would consider it cured enough to safely wax/seal it, or apply any protective films like 3M SGPP or Xpel.
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:16 PM   #18
SubieDugie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reide181 View Post
Try Turtle Wax ICE Total Interior Spray in the tall blue bottle for the plastic panels in the interior, you can also use it for you leather. Then try Mothers Back-to-Black in the red bottle for your trim. I also use it on my engine plastics and it makes my car look brand new.
Not to knock what works for you, but I tried some back to black that I took from a client/friend and tried it on a couple spots on my truck and was far from impressed and would never recommend it to anyone. There are far superior trim products out there that will darken trim, protect it, and leave a lasting shine that doesn't look cheap and greasy. For interior plastics, gauge clusters, radio/NAV displays I recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant. It also works well on exterior parts just usually needs a little longer time to dry and absorb into materials before getting wet. 303 is one of the only protectant that actually have SPF 40. I like it on tires as it gives a new tire look and is easy to apply and won't sling off once dry. Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant is another product that just came out from Wolfgang on AutoGeek and it is great. Works on just about every exterior surface. I have not used it on my interior yet but will soon try it on my dash and post how it turns out/last. Stay away from Armorall and other products that contain silicone as they will not protect as well and attract dirt like a magnet. If you insist on using Armorall, clean it off at least once a month and reapply it so that you aren't putting "protectant" over dirt; not doing so will cause yellowing.
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:56 PM   #19
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieDugie View Post
I don't know how long cars sit a the factory after being painted/assembled but if it isn't at least 30 days it isn't enough time for it to completely cure. Considering how soft Subie paint is I would give it 60 days before I would consider it cured enough to safely wax/seal it, or apply any protective films like 3M SGPP or Xpel.
The process involved at the factory is simply not possible on a fully assembled vehicle let alone most "body shop" facilities. The following is a decent article explaining today’s factory paint finishes that provides a decent explanation:

OEM Auto Paint Finishes

....and an excerpt from that article directly relevant to the topic of waxing new finishes:

Quote:
WHEN TO WAX?

A topic for consideration, about which many people are misinformed, is when you can wax the vehicle or apply paint sealant. Looking back at the curing process, both the 1K and 2K systems are 90-95% cured upon cool down, after the bake process, in the factory spray booth. The additional 5-10% will cure within 3-7 days. This means that by the time any vehicle reaches its destination at a dealer, the paint is fully cured. By not applying some sort of protection to the paint surface upon delivery or shortly after, the customer is actually hurting the paint instead of helping it. Salesmen that say don't wax a car for 6-12 months are misinformed. This is a huge problem in our business because customers will tend to believe a salesman who knows nothing about paint, rather than a trained professional. This is often why fairly new cars are in such bad shape even after a short period of time.
Here is another (more technical) article:
Paint Systems

....and an excerpt from that one that is directly applicable to your concern:

Quote:
B) New cars - Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM oven cured) Paint

Original equipment materials (OEM) specified materials are very different from refinish paint products and materials

The most often asked question and a subject that results in a great deal of confusion regarding polishing or waxing OEM paint. Paint curing process; new cars go through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the cars paint to such high temperatures, these high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level ensure the paint is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line.
Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) water based paint and its clear coat is cured at high temperatures; OEM paints are cured in a paint oven at around 320. °F (160. °C) for 20 minutes, in multiple oven zones where the paint is baked with radiation and convection heat so that 90-95% of the paint systems out gassing has taken place, the additional 5-10% will cure within 2-3 days and the vehicle’s paint can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant.

By not applying some sort of paint protection soon after purchase the customer is actually damaging the paint surface instead of helping it. Salesmen that advise a customer not to wax a car for 3-6 months are relying on old paint methods and are misinformed about the latest paint technology. The newer paints are catalyzed (a chemical reaction that cures the paint) lacquers and enamels needed an extensive time for the solvents to release, with modern water based paints this is not necessary.
This is a huge problem in dealerships because customers tend to take the advice offered
by a salesman who usually knows nothing about paint, rather than a trained paint professional. This goes a long way to understand why fairly new vehicles paint surfaces are in such bad shape even after a relatively short period of time.
....and Meguiars own advice on the subject:

Quote:
10. How soon can I wax my new car?


A new car with a factory paint job can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. Cars that have factory paint jobs are cured at much higher temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens. At a factory level, the car goes through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the car and it's fresh paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level insures the paint is fully cured by the time the car is completely assembled.

After-market paint finishes however, are cured at a much lower temperature to ensure the method of baking or heating the paint doesn't melt non-metal components such as wiring and vinyl. For this reason, it's best to follow the specific paint manufactures recommendations for care and maintenance of fresh paint. Most paint manufactures that supply paint to the refinish industry recommend that you allow anywhere from 30 to 90 days curing time after the paint is applied before you apply the first application of wax.

To maintain your cars fresh paint during the recommended curing time you can safely use any of the below Meguiar's pure polishes, which are not only safe for fresh paint but help to enhance the curing process while making your paint look it's absolute best.

M-03 Machine Glaze

M-05 New Car Glaze

M-07 Show Car Glaze

A-21 Deep Crystal Polish

Another product you can use to maintain fresh paint throughout the curing process and even afterwards is Meguiar's M-80 Speed Glaze. Speed Glaze is a cleaner/polish that also contains a unique paintable polymer that will extend the durability of the product while offering protection to the finish closer to that of a real wax or paint protectant. Speed Glaze contains a high level of pure polishing oils and only a small amount of very fine diminishing abrasives for cleaning/removing surface imperfections, blemishes, and surface stain. The amount of diminishing abrasives contained in this product are not enough to scratch the surface when applied by hand or machine. They will instead ensure that the surface is completely clean, enabling the rich polishing oils to penetrate into the surface creating deep, dark, wet-looking gloss while the paintable polymers provide a small but important level of protection to preserve your finish from attack and deterioration while it cures.
In a nutshell, you can clay, polish, wax, etc. as soon as you take delivery of your new car.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:57 PM   #20
STIfun
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+1 on the 303 Aerospace Protectant that is all I use on all my moldings and all the interior including leather and it works like no other product.

Good Luck and very nice car.
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:16 AM   #21
Bsmitty5913
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The paint on newer subarus is baked at the factory so you will be fine. I would still recommend a breathable product such as a paint sealant over a carnauba wax.
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