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Old 07-18-2011, 08:22 PM   #1
Krieger88
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Member#: 277043
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Long Island of New York
Vehicle:
2007 2.5i
Obsidian Black

Default Dull faded spots..

So 2 weeks ago while cleaning up my car I asked my old man (a 40+ mechanic, funny-car loving, car enthusiast.) what could i do about these annoying white scratches? So i used (I think it was) compoud. Got most of them out, fast forward 2 days later and now I have a hand full of spots that are dull and look faded. (I will post pics tomorrow, it's raining out currently) What can I do? Take it to a shop, or is there a touch up paint for obsidian black? Also , while giving my car the closest attention I've ever given it , I noticed there is a paint chip on the lower driver side door. Now every time I look at my car I notice it and it bugs me lol
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:29 PM   #2
tmann05
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Member#: 178773
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Jackson Center,OH
Vehicle:
2004 Subaru WRX STI
Aspen White

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Don't worry the more you drive your car the more you will notice scratches, dings, yellowing. I'm kind of in the same boat as to what's best to do for small paint chips on sideskirts, and what's best to remove yellowing of white paint behind my license plate on the bumper. I have so many small rock chips on the front bumper it's not funny. I wish they would primer cars the same color as the paint going on them so the marks wouldn't show so much
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:43 PM   #3
foolycooly
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Member#: 260545
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Limited 4dr
WRB

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The dull spots are almost certainly where you applied compound. When using compound (aggressive cutting action), you need to finish the area off with a finer polish. Assuming you don't go nuts with a ton of compound with very aggressive hand application, you should be able to correct the areas with a polish. However, I would suggest just letting a professional detailer take a look at it and do a full correction to even out those areas.

Dealerships sell OEM touch up paint. You can also try dr. colorchip, but if it's just one small chip I'd go with the OEM stuff.
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:30 AM   #4
SubieDugie
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: VB, Va.
Vehicle:
2005 STi
WR Blue

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Everyone with paint chips/rash/deep scratches(through the paint) need to look up Dr.Colorchip(comes with 1oz. color match paint) or Langka kit(doesn't come with paint). You can get the touchup paint from a local Subaru dealership or Duplicolor if you don't go with the Dr.Colorchip. I recommend Dr.Colorchip because their blend of paint will cure very quick and smoothes into the surrounding paint(with their proprietary blending agent) with the least amount of effort. It cost just under $60, but you will be able to use the kit for quite sometime as it comes with 1oz. of paint, which is more than enough paint to touch up most vehicles several times over.
If you try to use just a touch up paint you have to let it cure for a week or so then wet sand it to try and blend it in with the rest of the paint, then polish the area to make it all uniform again. Touchup paint by itself is going to visible if you have any kind of flake in your paint. You have to apply a flake paint in the direction it was originally sprayed on to try and make the flake blend; it may take a few tries to be happy with the way it blends with the surrounding paint. And it is still going to stick up over the paint around it if you don't use a blending kit like Langka's, or wet sand/compound/polish it. It may seem cheaper when you pick up a bottle of touch up paint by itself but without at least the Langka blob eliminator kit, it will take way longer and be much more work than the Dr.Colorchip kit; as long as you follow the directions and do a little homework before hand, it is easy. Sorry to sound like an advertisement for these products.

Last edited by SubieDugie; 08-09-2011 at 02:38 AM. Reason: technique for touchup paint application
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:09 AM   #5
SubieDugie
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Location: VB, Va.
Vehicle:
2005 STi
WR Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmann05 View Post
Don't worry the more you drive your car the more you will notice scratches, dings, yellowing. I'm kind of in the same boat as to what's best to do for small paint chips on sideskirts, and what's best to remove yellowing of white paint behind my license plate on the bumper. I have so many small rock chips on the front bumper it's not funny. I wish they would primer cars the same color as the paint going on them so the marks wouldn't show so much
To remove the stains on your white paint you can try a paint cleansing lotion/pre-wax cleanser after washing/cleaning and claying that area, or the whole car. I would recommend an Iron removing product like IronX after washing the car, and before claying. Some of the staining you see could be coming from small particles of iron forming rust in your paint. IronX will dissolve the iron(ferrous) particles releasing them from the paint. Any fine particles that may have been left along with other bonded contaminants will be pulled out the paint with the clay. This important to do so that you actually stop what is causing the staining and keep contamination from working deeper into the paint, causing clear coat/paint failure with in 5-10 years.
When you apply the cleansing lotion use a clean, soft applicator. A foam, wax applicator, a microfiber applicator or cloth, or a piece of clean T-shirt material will work if you don't have a white foam polishing pad and a DA polisher. I recommend working in straight lines, adjacent to the area you are working on. This ensures even, uniform coverage/application of any product and IMO is less fatiguing. Also, by working in straight lines, if scratches do occur then they are in straight lines and you know if the came from what you were doing; and straight lines are easier to remove them random circles/arcs.
If the cleansing lotion didn't remove all the stain them step up to a polish (not a compound) or and AIO(all-in-one) product like Zymol cleaner wax, Mother's cleaner wax, Meguiar's cleaner wax or possibly ColorX. You can apply these products by hands as well, the way I described above. A DA(dual action) polisher would make any polishing job a lot faster, easier, and even possible. If you don't have one and are working buy hand just stick to working in small areas no bigger than about 5.5inches square.
If using an AIO you won't need to go back and apply wax. But if you achieve the results you are looking for with just the paint cleansing lotion then you will need to follow it with a wax/sealant to protect that are from future exposure to contaminants/dirt.
Hope this helps. If any further questions feel free to contact me.
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:49 AM   #6
SubieDugie
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Location: VB, Va.
Vehicle:
2005 STi
WR Blue

Default

What product did you use to compound the areas?
The problem with using modern compounds and polishes by hand is that they are designed to be used with machine polishers because most modern clear coats are too hard to efficiently/effectively be corrected by hand. You would think that you could polish a stone or glass by hand with out it taking a long time if it was possible at all, would you?
When you are working by hand you need to be using an appropriate applicator to help cut with the polish, and an applicator that will keep the product mostly on the surface. Otherwise the product will be absorbed into the applicator and you will have to use more product than is necessary to make up for what's been absorbed. You can buy foam polishing applicators that are the same material as the foam pads that go on polishers. Autogeek.net carries these hand applicators. The Wolfgang German Polish N’ Wax Applicator would work for most instances of hand compounding/polishing. This will make the compound/polish work quicker and more efficiently.
When working by hand with a compound/polish you have to work the product until the defect is removed and/or the product has been worked all the way through its cycle. What this means is that if a compound is designed to breakdown(diminish) as you use/work it with a machine polisher, then you have to do the same thing by hand, which will take you longer and require more force from your arm. A diminishing compound is meant to finish like you just polished the area with a medium to fine polish depending on the brand. If you don't finish working the compound/polish until it has refined the paint as much as it can, then you will be left with parts of the defect still there/buffing marks/haze. This is why you have to work in a much smaller area when trying to correct paint by hand. Normally with machines you work in an area no bigger than 18-24 inches square(on average 3 times the size of the buffing/polishing pad/applicator you are using on the machine). So if working by hand the area that the tips of your four fingers can work linearly is about two inches. So you would need to keep the area your working no bigger than three times the area your hand can actually work efficiently one section pass at a time. This would be, roughly, no bigger than a 5 or 6 inch square/rectangle.
I agree that researching a detailer in your area to recondition the problem areas of your paint, if not the whole car would be the best chose and give you much better results; as I am a detailer in my area and would love the business and I truly enjoy correcting paint. I figured most people that read this thread are going to try something by hand/on their own regardless of how many people tell the to seek a pro. So I though it best to share the correct method if not using a machine.
Hope this wasn't too much, and I wasn't trying to take over this thread. Just trying to help.
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