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Old 07-20-2011, 01:52 AM   #1
Alaskan EJ20
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Member#: 160040
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Anchortown
Vehicle:
2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

Subaru Stars Alaskan EJ20: My 2002 WRX build.

A little back story on this car.

My 2002 Subaru WRX sedan. Purchased in September 2007 for $12,500. My first upgrade was a no name cat back exhaust system I bought off eBay $325. Shortly after that I bought a downpipe $285 and had the car reflashed for more boost and fuel. Played with set up for a few months and burnt the oem clutch. Bought an exedy stage 1 organic disk clutch kit $450 and had a friend show me how to install it. We did it drop the tranny style. This took two days because i didnt have a resufaced flywheel on hand. >$1060<
Later i decided I wanted more so i researched upgrades. I saved some money and started gathering parts for an injector and turbo upgrade. I went with STi pink fuel injectors $250 which flowed about 500 cc, walbro pump $100, vf34 turbo charger $600, HKS blow off $200, and STi top mount intercooler $300. I also got defi bf gauges $800 to monitor boost, oil pressure, and exhaust tempurature and an innovate motorsports wideband O2 sensor and gauge $285 for viewing air to fuel ratio. I went ahead and got new headers $550, new downpipe $285, Gimmick inlet tube $255, prodrive 3port ebcs $100 and Blitz SUS metal intake $250 during this install aswell. This was my first major car engine component swap and it took like two weeks to get all ready for tuning. Got it tuned and wow did the car feel fast, it was a whole new animal. I thought it was fastest thing on the road and it even kinda scared me to drive it at first. >$3975<
A lady hit me in a parking lot and bent my driver side strut assembly and i got some cheap skunk2 springs $300 and agx adjustable shocks $400. Also got a replica STi grill $200, a pair of carbon fiber fenders $450 and hood $500 from Carbon Creations. I started taking it to 1/4 mile drag track and that's when 2nd gear busted on my stock 5mt. Saved alot of money and got a 6mt from a 2004 STi. I got transmission, front axles, driveshaft, R180 rear diff, rear axles, rear hubs, rear rotors and rear brembo brakes $3000. I did this install my self. Went ahead and got all the kartboy shifter and linkage bushings and a Cobb short shifter $400. I was able to use my current front hubs also. When you use the 6 mt without a center diff controller you get an extremely rear bias drive line system because the center diff defaults to open when no power runs to it, so later I picked up Spider DCCD controller from dccdpro.com $550. I got the deluxe version that allowed automatic and manual control of the center diff with a switch and thumbwheel and also allowed me to view its status on an STi cluster. So I bought a cluster from an 07 STi $300, the far left plug had two more pins in cluster than my harness and I needed to use those pins on the cluster and couldn't source a new plug from an 07+ STi so I sold that cluster and picked up a version 8 jdm cluster and pinned in dccd so I could view it on my cluster. Got a Clutchmasters 6mt light flywheel $250 and an exedy 6mt stage 2 cutch kit $550. To complete the driveline I purchased a set of front brembo calipers and 5 x 100 brembo rotors $700. Came across a good deal on slotted and drilled rotors and EBC pads $400 so I slapped those on. >$8000<



With big breaks came wheel fitment issues, I had to sell my stock 2002 wrx wheels and I picked up a set of Rota Torque R wheels in 17 x 9 with a +30 offset and 245 Falken tires $1400. Picked up a set BC coilovers $1000, ichiba spacers with longer wheel studs $400 and camber bolts $140 and joined the wrongfitment movement. My WrongFitmentCrew number is #907. Played with this set up for a while then traded the wheels for a set of Enkie RPF1s. Wanted a quieter exhaust so I bought a Cobb cat back $695. Again i decided I wanted to go faster. >$3635<



I started looking into more turbo and power upgrades. Decided to stop fooling with stock location turbos and pieced together a rotated turbo set up. Sourced a Garret gt3076 with a .63 hotside and A/R 60 coldside used for $700, perrin rotated 3" downpipe and T3 uppipe $600 and coolant lines, tial 44mm external wastegate $250, oil lines and silicone intake $200. Did some work for buddy on his car and he gave me a TurboXS frontmont kit for $200 and my topmount. Got all this installed and tuned to about 17 psi on the stock 2.0 wrx block. Spool was late at about 4000 rpm it would hit target boost. Having the six speed helped because I was able to keep it in the power band with ratios the 6mt has. I beat on the 2.0 block for a few months and researched built engines. >$1950<


The engine build.

Building an engine ended up being the expensive and extensive part of this overall project. I wanted a shortblock that was capible of around 500 hp, so that ment a ej257 case and crank with race bearings, forged rods, and forged pistons. I sourced just that. I found a 257 case with 2010 STi crank, acl bearings, helix forged rods, and CP 2618 allow pistons already assebled $2600. My intentions were a hybrid engine with my 2L wrx heads but it ended up being an entirely different kind of hybrid set up. A good deal came up on some cosworth big port prepped heads so jumped on them $2000. The were completely bare and 2008 heads so they had both intake and exhaust avcs systems. I had to find buckets, cams, valve covers $80 and all the avcs soleniods and sensors $380. I had buckets laying around and found some kelford 272 cams $500. Because I'm still using the wire harness and ecu from a 2002 wrx I had to use the cam gears and cam sensor accordingly. The avcs system not only channels oil to the avcs cam gears but it also channels the oil in the cam journals in the front of the head casting. That ment I couldn't just plug or remove the avcs soleniods, I had to stop the oil flow at the cam gear so oil can still get to the journals which ment plugging the camshaft oil channels on the front of the shaft. Needed the cosworth cam bracket for the cam sensor $80. Had a machine shop measure buckets and deck heads $250.
Engine gasket kit for 08 sti $300, 12mm oil pump $185, STi oil pan $90, timing belt kit 02 wrx $300, cam seals nonavcs $40, covert oil pick up $150, cusco engine mounts $100, and Apr head studs $185. Now I was ready to assemble it. I took my time assembling it as it was my first engine build. Got HKS headers $700, aps tgv deletes with spacers $280, perrin fuel rails $250 and 900cc injectors $200. Traded my stock radiator plus $100 for an aluminum one and a friend gave me a gimmick crank pulley. My clutchmasters flywheel was warped pretty bad when I pulled the other engine so I picked up a slightly used exedy twin disk set up $900. >$9670<
Got installed and started, it sounded awsome, dialed in the injectors and let it idle for another few minutes. Took it for spin down the road all seemed well. I was about two miles or so from the shop when the car started jolting a little then it seemed like it was running on three cylinders. I turned around and pulled it back in garage to diognose. At first it was thought to be a bad injector but that checked out, checked the coil plugs also but they worked just fine. Then I checked the timing, the passenger side intake camgear was off two or three teeth. This not a good thing on these engines. I reset the timing and did a compression test on cylinder 3. No compression! My first thought was I definately bent valves so out came the engine.
Tore into it to find an astonishing freak failure. The intake camshaft had seized. It was completely stuck solid and the camgear broke the alignment pin on the end of the shaft so the gear was spinning but shaft wasn't. It froze up right before cylinder 3s intake valves were supposed to open i so lucked out by not bending any valves. The car was really only running on two cylinders i realized after discovering this. Took the heads back to the machine shop with another set of cams, this time they were BC 272s local and brand new for $300. The machine shop tells me the passenger side head is twisted and warped and the camshafts will not lay in journals on this head. ****ty. Still not sure exactly what caused the failure but it happened.
Found some 06 STi heads that were missing a few exhaust valves $200 pretty good deal. Had to get 4 exhaust vaves and 2 buckets. I had the machine shop swap in all the cosworth dual valve springs and retainers with the stock valves in 06 sti heads. They also fitted the BC cams I had and decked them. The machine shop bill was $980. Got new head gaskets $120, racing timing belt $100 and a tomei belt guide $50. >$1750<


This time the engine went together a little faster because it was basically mount the heads, mount cams, covers, manifolds, and set timing and it was ready to go. Dropped it in and got it started. I broke in the cams at 2000 rpms for 20mins then took it for a spin. Once it warmed up the car didn't like the idle at 600 rpms where it was set because of the big came, it had to be turned up to around 1100 rpms. Cruised around for 100 miles or so staying out of high load for the most part and then changed the oil. To break in the cams and for the first 100 miles I used 10w 30 motor oil with a beak-in additive and changed it just 10w 30 motor oil. Drove it around for 400-500 miles giving it full throtle and load as much as I could. Boost was set at wastegate pressure 15psi and and made sure AFRs were at safe levels, high 10s to low 11s a little rich but safe so I left them alone.


Now the car has around 1500 miles on it, I'm still on the same break-in tune. 15psi on the 30r will max out my 300g/sec wrx maf sensor right at about 5500 rpms. Its fun as hell to drive on just 15lbs. Future plans right now are a pump tune at 20psi, then install the aquamist HFS-6 methanol kit and Turbosmart E-boost boost controller and turn it up to 25psi+. Both are in a box waiting to be installed. We'll see where it goes from there.

Im sure there is alot im forgetting when it comes to mods and money spent but this should give you a good idea what it takes to build a super subaru.
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Last edited by Alaskan EJ20; 07-20-2011 at 02:53 AM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:09 AM   #2
ridestreet84
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nice write up gabe
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:16 AM   #3
LiLpNoY
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Your doing your own tuning?
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:19 AM   #4
Alaskan EJ20
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Location: Anchortown
Vehicle:
2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

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^^ get the idea of how to do it, i like to look at the logs and see where i can change things, im just kinda weary to jump all the way in and start changing things. lol
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:01 PM   #5
Alaskan EJ20
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Location: Anchortown
Vehicle:
2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

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Feel free to comment and ask questions.
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Old 07-20-2011, 02:25 PM   #6
missiceblast
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A little off topic Gabe, but, I saw your car on Google Maps street view!
I was looking at townhouses and condos for rent and came across your car on Cordova Street! Just thought it was a cool coincidence
B.
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:27 PM   #7
chanomatik
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Good job so far, Gabe! That car is BEAST at 15psi.
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:22 PM   #8
aleutdude
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What a build! I can't wait to see it in person!
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:14 AM   #9
Alaskan EJ20
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2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

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Quote:
Originally Posted by missiceblast View Post
A little off topic Gabe, but, I saw your car on Google Maps street view!
I was looking at townhouses and condos for rent and came across your car on Cordova Street! Just thought it was a cool coincidence
B.
thats awesome!!!
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:15 AM   #10
akeric
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My car is black not

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nice write up, your not going to know what to do with yourself when your finished with it.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:51 AM   #11
Alaskan EJ20
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Location: Anchortown
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2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

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Update: turned the boost up to 20psi, estimated HP 370ish. Still on pump 90 gas, it feels real fast now, it scares me again
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:55 AM   #12
Alaskan EJ20
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

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Quote:
Originally Posted by akeric View Post
nice write up, your not going to know what to do with yourself when your finished with it.
There happens to be a 2.5rs parked next to it and its slow being modded already I'm gonna be poor for a long time.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:39 AM   #13
06gtleg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post
There happens to be a 2.5rs parked next to it and its slow being modded already I'm gonna be poor for a long time.

My car is my 401K. lol
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Old 07-21-2011, 10:42 AM   #14
Trox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post
There happens to be a 2.5rs parked next to it and its slow being modded already I'm gonna be poor for a long time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06gtleg View Post
My car is my 401K. lol
I learned not to keep track of it a long time ago.

Nice write up, I look forward to meeting you on the battlefield but i don't know if ill be tuned by the 29th
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:56 PM   #15
Alaskan EJ20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trox View Post
I learned not to keep track of it a long time ago.

Nice write up, I look forward to meeting you on the battlefield but i don't know if ill be tuned by the 29th
right on, hopefully a high 11 sec time is in order.
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:14 PM   #16
P3Auto
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Gabes g/s was coming to 394 at 7300rpm and about 19PSI. Some very nice flow there. Great choice of parts to make it go fast...lol
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:11 PM   #17
Alaskan EJ20
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Symmetry Tuning

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, consult me for parts choice all
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Old 07-22-2011, 12:02 AM   #18
akeric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post
Update: turned the boost up to 20psi, estimated HP 370ish. Still on pump 90 gas, it feels real fast now, it scares me again
I think a ride is in order, should be even better with the meth.
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Old 07-22-2011, 01:11 AM   #19
Alaskan EJ20
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for sure eric, i know right i can even imagine what its going to feel like then.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:04 AM   #20
akeric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post
for sure eric, i know right i can even imagine what its going to feel like then.
most people report anywhere from 30-80hp gain depending on mixture and the amount your spraying. Mixing your own can be a pain in the ass for consistency, but I personally feel 50/50 washer fluid doesn't have enough meth content.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:15 AM   #21
Alaskan EJ20
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the real kicker is my afr's are around 10.8-11.0, i cant imagine what leaner power would feel like. we did have to pull the timing back alittle after we turned it up to 19psi, where you get 100% meth in this town?
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:56 AM   #22
JesseL
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Quote:
Have you ran into any issues with the turbo being at this angle?
Like the turbine side being lower then the compressor side?

When my borg warner turbo failed, I sent it into Bullseye turbo, they mentioned that the failure could have been caused by a this high angle. I guess it's due to oil being allowed to pool inside the housing, not being allowed to drain efficiently.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:15 PM   #23
Alaskan EJ20
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2002 Bugi / 1993 L
Symmetry Tuning

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseL View Post
Have you ran into any issues with the turbo being at this angle?
Like the turbine side being lower then the compressor side?

When my borg warner turbo failed, I sent it into Bullseye turbo, they mentioned that the failure could have been caused by a this high angle. I guess it's due to oil being allowed to pool inside the housing, not being allowed to drain efficiently.
No issues yet, its not as bad as it looks in the pic, I had the car on stands in the front when I took this pic.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:52 AM   #24
seascooby
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why did you step down to bc cams?
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:10 AM   #25
dome24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan EJ20 View Post
where you get 100% meth in this town?
pretty sure inlet petroleum sells 100% or yellow bottle heet is like 99%

Amazing to see it all laid out there like that Gabe
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