Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday April 16, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Engine Management & Tuning

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-28-2002, 02:40 PM   #1
davidm_sh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5994
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STi
Java Black

Default Link discussion: Idling issues.

Ok first off it seems like the Link doesn't have enough compensation for all possible events that can occur at idle OR it just expects you to run A/F ratios of 12:1 or so to compensate for them. Here are a few examples.

With the idle set to 800rpm and a nice A/F of 14.5:1 it is just fine. I tuned the fuel enrichment for the AC just fine. BUT the problems occur when you press the brake and/or the cooling fans come on. In either case the A/F ratio will go from 14.5 all the way and surge around 18-20:1 range. There are only a couple of things I can think of to overcome this.

1) Tune for idle A/F ratios of 14.5 when the foot brake is applied or when fans come on = RICH as HELL(11-12:1 range) when the fans are not on or you don't have your foot on the brake when idling.

2) Up the %rpm correction factor on fan on to about 25% so you go from 800rpm to 1000rpm where you can have a richer setting programmed in the map to compensate, but this doesn't fix the foot brake load issue.

OH and another thing. Lets say I turn the AC on the enrichment kicks in and everything is just fine. THEN I turn the AC off and it goes lean to ~ 18-20:1 range and STAYS there until I blip the throttle? The same thing happens in the next example:

It's idling at 800rpm nice A/F of 14.5:1 and then the fans kick on = things start leaning out becuase of increased load (I assume?) then the fans turn off BUT the A/F stays way lean still (18-20:1) and the engine keeps surging in rpms UNTIL you blip the throttle. It acts like it gets stuck into some kind of loop to compensate for the fans turning on and then when they go off it stays in that loop and doesn't return to the map fuel position to get back to nice 14.5:1 ratio UNTIL you blip the throttle which seems to cure it?

Sorry just a lot of questions here. Granted I have only been playing with the Link now for a couple of days and maybe the wideband is spoiling me, in that, it is showing me GLARING flaws in my tuning method or short falls in the Links ability to compensate for different engine loads when say foot brake and fans kick on. All you need is some kind of enrichment setting for the fans (more than just kicking up the rpms in the beginning) it seems like.

Thank you for any help anyone can give.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
davidm_sh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 03:13 PM   #2
AZScoobie
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 8785
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Vehicle:
02 c_turner@ix.
netcom.com

Default

There are settings for Voltage drop. Read the manual and play with them. There is also and AC setting.

The problem you are having when you talk about having to blip the throttle is a known issue with the link. Its one of those things that you get used to. Watch the Idle control valve settings. By blipping the throttle you are causing the link to readjust the Idle control. Then your idle is back to normal. You can change those perameters. Also, play with the clamp setting.


HTH

CT
AZScoobie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 03:21 PM   #3
jmott
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 6713
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston TX USA
Vehicle:
2007 Prius
brown

Default

this is why piggybacks are nice

=)
jmott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 03:28 PM   #4
AZScoobie
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 8785
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Vehicle:
02 c_turner@ix.
netcom.com

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jmott
this is why piggybacks are nice

=)
I agree with you if the car is to be driven daily. Sure, You might not make peak power but the car starts and idles perfect

I had a link for several months. When Mine was shipped it contained no stock map. I had to start from scratch. It was a long 2 months to get the car to run right. I sold it after comming to the conclusion that it is never going to run like stock. Its FAR less advanced.

CT
AZScoobie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 03:39 PM   #5
davidm_sh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5994
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STi
Java Black

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by AZScoobie


I agree with you if the car is to be driven daily. Sure, You might not make peak power but the car starts and idles perfect

I had a link for several months. When Mine was shipped it contained no stock map. I had to start from scratch. It was a long 2 months to get the car to run right. I sold it after comming to the conclusion that it is never going to run like stock. Its FAR less advanced.

CT
I know I know ... I was expecting this. On the brighter side however everything else seems to be going pretty well. Given that I only have spent obout a half hour so far on the road with half the time to partial throttle fueling and the other half to WOT (only up to 150kPa range) it is running pretty well.

I still have to play with tip-in fuel settings but other than that idle just seems a bit rough.

I will look at the voltage drop/correction stuff. The AC fuel enrichment is PERFECT but applying the brake and or fans still causes the Link to run like crap... ah well the joys of the Link right .

Thanks for the replies.
davidm_sh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 03:39 PM   #6
jmott
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 6713
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston TX USA
Vehicle:
2007 Prius
brown

Default

the data logging, and tweaking possibilities that standalones offer is very cool to me.

but people need to discuss this side of standalone tuning as well, lest people be led into a false sense of security.

what would really be nice is a unichip type setup that anyone with a laptop and fiddle with.


Quote:
Originally posted by AZScoobie


I agree with you if the car is to be driven daily. Sure, You might not make peak power but the car starts and idles perfect

I had a link for several months. When Mine was shipped it contained no stock map. I had to start from scratch. It was a long 2 months to get the car to run right. I sold it after comming to the conclusion that it is never going to run like stock. Its FAR less advanced.

CT
jmott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 03:41 PM   #7
AZScoobie
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 8785
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Vehicle:
02 c_turner@ix.
netcom.com

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by jmott
the data logging, and tweaking possibilities that standalones offer is very cool to me.

but people need to discuss this side of standalone tuning as well, lest people be led into a false sense of security.

what would really be nice is a unichip type setup that anyone with a laptop and fiddle with.


Yes.. If we had a Unichip programmer then life would be easy for many of us. But. You always have the AFC and ITC.

CT
AZScoobie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 07:02 PM   #8
DarthChicken
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9073
Join Date: Aug 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR.
Vehicle:
2006 ariel atom
wrb/bbs gold frame

Default

I've found the best I can do in my car is to run at .94 volts at idle. Anything leaner than that, and it tries to die on me. Which, I really don't care if its running rich at idle... its idle after all.
DarthChicken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 07:33 PM   #9
ScoobieSnaX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10844
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: location, location...
Vehicle:
2004 Acura TL Navi
Pearl

Default

I wouldn't worry too much about a/f ratios at idle. Get the idle stable under most conditions (no surging), then try to lean it out by increasing the "AirC Enrich" value.

The best I can get is ~14:1 at idle with it going up to 15:1 with the A/C on.

If you're stepping on the brake and the idle is messed, you need to increase your "Voltage Correction" value.

The thing I can't seem to get stable is when the A/C comes on then the fan comes on a few seconds later, I get a surge in idle.
ScoobieSnaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 07:46 PM   #10
DarthChicken
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9073
Join Date: Aug 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR.
Vehicle:
2006 ariel atom
wrb/bbs gold frame

Default

surge, and then RPMS drop below target right? Same here...
DarthChicken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 07:51 PM   #11
ScoobieSnaX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10844
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: location, location...
Vehicle:
2004 Acura TL Navi
Pearl

Default

Yup. It used to be really bad until I adjusted the "AirC Step" & "Fan Step" values quite low. If they both kick in at the same time, it does surge, then drop.....but even more annoying is when they turn off, it surges again!
ScoobieSnaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 08:24 PM   #12
DarthChicken
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9073
Join Date: Aug 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR.
Vehicle:
2006 ariel atom
wrb/bbs gold frame

Default

One more reason to have our own "settings" section on here.

No reason we shouldn't be able to come up with a "best idle" number for everybody on here, assuming average mods. I have fuel rails along with everything else for example, so I had to change EVERYTHING it seemed like, but there is no reason we should't be able to come up with something like:

master 86
idle 900rpm
timing 8 degrees (CELL 305)
fuel value 100
overrun vac 26
AirC step 7
fan step 5
idle cold 46
idle hot 34
clamp 42
cold start 42
hot restart 17
crank enrich 47

Etc.... etc... etc...
DarthChicken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 08:51 PM   #13
davidm_sh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5994
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STi
Java Black

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by ScoobieSnaX
I wouldn't worry too much about a/f ratios at idle. Get the idle stable under most conditions (no surging), then try to lean it out by increasing the "AirC Enrich" value.

The best I can get is ~14:1 at idle with it going up to 15:1 with the A/C on.

If you're stepping on the brake and the idle is messed, you need to increase your "Voltage Correction" value.

The thing I can't seem to get stable is when the A/C comes on then the fan comes on a few seconds later, I get a surge in idle.
Well I don't seem to have a problem with the AC enrich = when I turn on the AC I have it adjusted to stay at ~14.5A/F. Now I want to know more about the voltage correction. The manual said to set it to 15 BUT does not give any indication of what it does if you increase or decrease it? I have it at 20 with almost no known effects except the Volts reading in "my gauges in the Link software" seems to have gone from 14.1 to about 13.6 or so is that what it does and if so what am I shooting for?

I have tried idle at 800-900 with varying fan step from 5 up to 12. 12 seems to work the best as the rpms go up to about 1000-1100rpm and do NOT surge but I am STILL leaning out too about 19-20:1 during this time. Not really frustrated with the Link JUST THE LACK OF DOCUMENTATION .

Would running less timing allow for better idle?
davidm_sh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 09:27 PM   #14
Jan Shim
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 6366
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Brunei Darussalam
Vehicle:
1998 WRX Wagon (Ret)
Silver

Default Re: Link discussion: Idling issues.

Quote:
Originally posted by davidm_sh
Ok first off it seems like the Link doesn't have enough compensation for all possible events that can occur at idle OR it just expects you to run A/F ratios of 12:1 or so to compensate for them. Here are a few examples.

With the idle set to 800rpm and a nice A/F of 14.5:1 it is just fine. I tuned the fuel enrichment for the AC just fine. BUT the problems occur when you press the brake and/or the cooling fans come on. In either case the A/F ratio will go from 14.5 all the way and surge around 18-20:1 range. There are only a couple of things I can think of to overcome this.

1) Tune for idle A/F ratios of 14.5 when the foot brake is applied or when fans come on = RICH as HELL(11-12:1 range) when the fans are not on or you don't have your foot on the brake when idling.

2) Up the %rpm correction factor on fan on to about 25% so you go from 800rpm to 1000rpm where you can have a richer setting programmed in the map to compensate, but this doesn't fix the foot brake load issue.

OH and another thing. Lets say I turn the AC on the enrichment kicks in and everything is just fine. THEN I turn the AC off and it goes lean to ~ 18-20:1 range and STAYS there until I blip the throttle? The same thing happens in the next example:

It's idling at 800rpm nice A/F of 14.5:1 and then the fans kick on = things start leaning out becuase of increased load (I assume?) then the fans turn off BUT the A/F stays way lean still (18-20:1) and the engine keeps surging in rpms UNTIL you blip the throttle. It acts like it gets stuck into some kind of loop to compensate for the fans turning on and then when they go off it stays in that loop and doesn't return to the map fuel position to get back to nice 14.5:1 ratio UNTIL you blip the throttle which seems to cure it?

Sorry just a lot of questions here. Granted I have only been playing with the Link now for a couple of days and maybe the wideband is spoiling me, in that, it is showing me GLARING flaws in my tuning method or short falls in the Links ability to compensate for different engine loads when say foot brake and fans kick on. All you need is some kind of enrichment setting for the fans (more than just kicking up the rpms in the beginning) it seems like.

Thank you for any help anyone can give.
Good grief! I was led to believe that the New Age Link ECUs no longer inherit the idle stability issues vs "ideal" leanish AFR. I struggled for a very long time to get this right, talked to many "tuners" about this problem and how Link had in fact designed to idle smoothly only under rich AFR conditions (this is documented in my manual). So we were under the illussion that it's a possibility when it's not .. now, I know there are some people who let their tuner sort out their car and claim that their WRX/STi idle fine but when i asked them what AFR are they seeing on their Lambda monitor, surprise! surprise! either very rich > 12:1 or they dont even have a monitor at all !!

I have had arguments with many people including tuners like MRT about the side effects of prolonged rich idle, expectedly they say "No problems at all". Some even avoided the issue completely with remarks like "How long do you idle anyway?" Now, if you guys arent aware of this, my research wrt this matter revealed that prolonged rich idle caused premature wear on our narrow band downpipe mounted Oxygen sensor. I went through three sensors in the short time (1.5 years) i was running and tuning the Link ecu.

Then there's the other question about "bore washing" from the excess fuel that's being dumped for no good reason besides keeping idle steady. Again, many dismissed this "threat" as a nonevent. Factory ecu maintains rock steady idle by keeping in check all the parameters that affect, Voltage, TPS, and keeps AFR rocking back and forth (mainly as a prerequisite to keep the catalytic converter in working condition). You can try very hard to mimic these in the Link with load ie A/C, Headlights, Foglights all ON but the second you switch off A/C, AFR shoots from a steady 14.x : 1 to 12 : 1.

How many people can tell me that dumping fuel into the cylinders doesnt do any damage on a road car [race cars are stripped and rebuilt so that doesnt count].

Last edited by Jan Shim; 07-28-2002 at 09:37 PM.
Jan Shim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 09:52 PM   #15
DarthChicken
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9073
Join Date: Aug 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Hillsboro, OR.
Vehicle:
2006 ariel atom
wrb/bbs gold frame

Default

Ok, so what is the solution? Is anybody getting 14:1 A/R ratio at idle, and having it smooth? I'd very much like to see what their settings are.... sounds like Jan would as well.

Otherwise, we run rich, and possibly hose up the 02 sensor, and/or the cylinder bore?
DarthChicken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 10:04 PM   #16
Chav
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3269
Join Date: Dec 2000
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2001 2.5RS Sedan STM
RSTi

Default

I have a rock solid idle at 14-15:1 a/f. When I hit the lights, full vent blower, a/c, anything it is fine. It took a long time playing with the settings to get it right. Messing with the map idle clamp made the biggest difference. I had it set too high and the Link was interpolating between cells for the idle. Lambda would adjust the cell it was in, but it wouldnt have the right effect becuase the Link was interpolating. The thing that happens now is when the a/c turns off at idle the idle jumps up to 1000 rpm from my usual 700 rpm and then falls back. This happened with the stock ecu so I'm not concerned.

-Chav
Chav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 11:14 PM   #17
davidm_sh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5994
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STi
Java Black

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Chav
I have a rock solid idle at 14-15:1 a/f. When I hit the lights, full vent blower, a/c, anything it is fine. It took a long time playing with the settings to get it right. Messing with the map idle clamp made the biggest difference. I had it set too high and the Link was interpolating between cells for the idle. Lambda would adjust the cell it was in, but it wouldnt have the right effect becuase the Link was interpolating. The thing that happens now is when the a/c turns off at idle the idle jumps up to 1000 rpm from my usual 700 rpm and then falls back. This happened with the stock ecu so I'm not concerned.

-Chav
I am a little confused about what you mean by "map idle clamp"? Are you referring to the "Overrun Vacuum" setting? I am just wondering. Even if that is what you are talking about I don't see how that could help. Becuase when I get these excessivly lean issues I can see that the Link is in the "Idle mode" becuase it reports "increasing rpms, decreasing rpms, holding, etc..."

But what do I know ? I am pretty much a two day newbie to all this .

Thanks and keep all this good info. coming.
davidm_sh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2002, 11:41 PM   #18
Chav
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3269
Join Date: Dec 2000
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:
2001 2.5RS Sedan STM
RSTi

Default

The setting is under the fuel drop button. It is the top right zone labeled "Clamp". It was set at 33 from the factory, but my car idles at 26-28. So I lowered it to 22 and the ecu correct's and holds the idle at 700rpm and 14-15:1 a/f.

-Chav
Chav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 12:51 AM   #19
davidm_sh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5994
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STi
Java Black

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Chav
The setting is under the fuel drop button. It is the top right zone labeled "Clamp". It was set at 33 from the factory, but my car idles at 26-28. So I lowered it to 22 and the ecu correct's and holds the idle at 700rpm and 14-15:1 a/f.

-Chav
Wow that is set pretty low. I just played with it some and it seems like my idle is around 26-28 like yours so I set my vacuum overrun to 25 and it seems if I go with anything lower than 38 right now (for the clamp) then the car will just die unexplicably??

But like I said it is a little better now. With nothing on the AF is around 12.5:1 and then with lights, fan, laptop running and the radiator fans kicking in it will only (heh only I say) lean out to 17.2:1 and no leaner and then actually comes back down after the cooling fans shut off... so progress... just slow.

Thanks again.
davidm_sh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 10:07 AM   #20
mynew02
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 13726
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Maryland
Vehicle:
2002 WRX - 264 AWHP
ION-Turbo&LINK 12.83@106

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Chav
I have a rock solid idle at 14-15:1 a/f. When I hit the lights, full vent blower, a/c, anything it is fine. It took a long time playing with the settings to get it right. Messing with the map idle clamp made the biggest difference. I had it set too high and the Link was interpolating between cells for the idle. Lambda would adjust the cell it was in, but it wouldnt have the right effect becuase the Link was interpolating. The thing that happens now is when the a/c turns off at idle the idle jumps up to 1000 rpm from my usual 700 rpm and then falls back. This happened with the stock ecu so I'm not concerned.

-Chav
Please give us your list of fueling upgrades and more detailed info about your other settings...

-Jonathan
mynew02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 11:29 AM   #21
JenisonWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 6049
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Jenison.Doomhammer
Vehicle:
02 WRX & 99 RS
Black

Default

I've said it once I'll say it again ...

stock fuel system

master 90
idle fuel is 95
advance is 2
rpm 800
voltage correction is 20

rock solid idle ... just not lean
JenisonWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 12:11 PM   #22
mynew02
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 13726
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Maryland
Vehicle:
2002 WRX - 264 AWHP
ION-Turbo&LINK 12.83@106

Default

Ok.. it appears there is more than one way to skin a cat...

I just played with all the numbers and got a good combination that uses 800RPM as the idle speed. Before I was using 850 with good results.

My idle fuel is down in the low 90's.

Can someone with a wideband02 please check their idle A/F and compare it to the OXY readings in the link and tell us just how useless this OXY number is. It seems on my car that OXY is either reading high 90's or dropping all the way to 0.

I would like someone to get their car idling at a good (lean) A/F ratio and then observe your OXY reading to tell me where it is.

-Jonathan
mynew02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 12:29 PM   #23
davidm_sh
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 5994
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX STi
Java Black

Default

JenisonWRX & mynew02 - Can you tell me what your vacuum overrun and Clamp values are? I think those have a LOT to do with the idle quality. Chav mentioned that he got his clamp value at or below his vacuum overrun... The only problem is when I go down from my clamp value of 38 (vaccuum overrun set at 25) the car REALLY surges and usually dies. Maybe I just have to get through "that rough middle ground" and it will be better once I get to my target value of 25 or less on the Clamp [shrug].

Anyway I tuned my car with my wideband yesterday for partial throttle and it was a little on the rich side (high 13's low 14's:1 AF's) from vacuum up to about 3psi. So I drive it this morning and it is just PIG RICH!! I am talking 11-12:1!

So I try out the autotune feature with the voltage 78 in for cruise range and I will tell you that the rear O2 sensor is pretty damn on when it comes to tuning for partial/light throttle AF's of 14.5:1. And that is even with a high flow cat sitting between my wideband (no cats before it) and the stock 0-1V rear O2.

***NOTE: I just REALLY REALLY wish Link would put a feature in to tell the autotune lambda function to turn off after a presettable MAP threshold. That would ROCK!! Then you could just leave the autotune on ALL THE time without worry it will screw up your high boost WOT maps becuase the rear 02 does become fairly inaccurate after say low 13's:1 and high 16's:1 I would guesstimate. But it is pretty spot on for mid 14's:1 ratios.

CAN ANYONE contact Link or does anyone have any "inside tracks tuner" type inroads with Link to get this kind of feature? I REALLY don't think it would be that hard to implement, and I just honestly can't think of a reason why it would be a bad thing. Anyway off to work on the idle some more .

Oh and on a side note: I have been getting consistant variances from my boost gauge to my MAP readings indicating there is about a 3psi difference in atmosphere up here at 6000ft above sea level. When I am boosting 18psi on my gauges I am only registering about 200-205kPa!!! BUT I am NOT getting any more knock now that I can tune my AF nice and fat to the 11.5 range under WOT ... oh and did I mention [heh].
davidm_sh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 12:34 PM   #24
mynew02
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 13726
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Maryland
Vehicle:
2002 WRX - 264 AWHP
ION-Turbo&LINK 12.83@106

Default

I'll have to go look to be 100% but I think the vac overrun is 15 and the clamp is 53 or so...

-Jonathan
mynew02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2002, 12:39 PM   #25
JenisonWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 6049
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Jenison.Doomhammer
Vehicle:
02 WRX & 99 RS
Black

Default

OR: 26 Clamp: 50

Quote:
JenisonWRX & mynew02 - Can you tell me what your vacuum overrun and Clamp values are? I think those have a LOT to do with the idle quality
yes ... they do. Even states that in the manual
JenisonWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Jumping idle issues, any ideas? Also fueling issues. roninsoldier83 Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain 3 05-20-2009 11:32 AM
weird idle issue...not average idle stuff slingshot Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain 5 09-25-2006 04:24 PM
idle issues and boost issues jdgrimm Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 3 07-05-2006 09:45 PM
Link Lean Idle JenisonWRX Engine Management & Tuning 0 10-17-2004 04:06 PM
Link and idle a/f ratios I Wish Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 22 06-27-2002 11:54 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.