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Old 07-29-2002, 09:05 AM   #1
WRXVII
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Default Must read for people who are about to install springs!

Installation of Eibach Prokit on WRX

Approximate installation time:

4-5 hours for mechanically inclined person (but never installed springs before)

5-7 hours for not mechanically inclined person

Tools you should have:

Must: at least 24" breaker bar otherwise you will have hell of a time unbolting 19mm bolts (trust me). We used a 3' pipe extension on a 12" breaker bar and still had tough time unbolting them (my friend is 6' 210lbs). In the process of removing rear 19mm bolt, I broke two 19mm sockets!! Spring compressor - you need it to remove the stock springs but you DO NOT NEED IT to install Eibach Prokit springs back on to the strut.

Plus: $20 Impact gun from walmart. It saved us so much time, which would have been manual labor intensive work (lugnut removal). Having it eliminated the necessary of having a o-wretchet and a allen wrench. That's the best $20 I've ever spent on tools! WD40 or other penatrating oils is also needed.

Advice: Have someone who can assist you. It is very labor intensive and tiring! Prior to installing springs I've done BOV, spark plugs, fuel filter, and CAI installation, which are very simple. Spring replacement is a lot harder than you think especially if you don't have the right tools (impact gun and a very long breaker bar). Remember that you won't be able to unbolt those 19mm bolts without a very long breaker bar w/ an extension unless you can anti-seize it by using a very thin penatrating oil. Taking stock struts out were pretty straight-foward. However, when you put the new springs back on to the stock strut, be sure to align them correctly. When placed, a new spring should sit straight if placed correctly, and moreover, be sure to have someone press the spring from the top while you align the springs and put a top bolt on the top of the shaft.

You must also take out a back seat and three bolts that hold the stock strut. Taking them out requires a ratchet with an extension. Be patient and remember where each bolt was taken off from.

Once everything is installed, you will notice that when you drive it, the car will tend to pull to the side, which is normal. Drive it for about 1-2 weeks and then take your car for alignment. You will need it in order to prevent irregular wearing out of tires.

Handling: wow.... you gotta drive it to believe.... due to lower center of gravity, body lean is reduced significantly. Also, my car looks so much better than before... especially with 17" rims. Prior to spring install, my car had that unfinished look with "huge" gap in the side fender. I say it's the best mod I've done as far as appearance goes.

Ride quality: it rides harsher period. People say Eibach prokit's ride quality is as similar to OEM springs and I will disagree with that. It rides definitely harsher and now I need to watch for any bumps or pot hole. I don't care as long as my car looks and performs better....

Good luck everyone and if you have any questions, let me know....

Tim
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Old 07-29-2002, 11:19 AM   #2
Jaxx
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cool glad you like them ..i believe the record is aprox 1 hr to do all 4 corners.. on a gc6 .. which is harder
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Old 07-29-2002, 12:32 PM   #3
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I just did my Eibach springs with Murray from this site on Saturday night. It took us 3-1/2 hours to do all 4 corners. The only thing I would recomend is one of those cheap plug-in cig lighter impact guns (very cheap, but work great. They are made for lug-nut removal but work on any bolt). The hardest part if the install is getting those 2 bolts at the bottom of the strut off (These bolts are the same size as your stock wheel lugnuts). You will see what I mean when you take the wheels off. I have never done it before but Murray has, He and I worked very fast and didn't have one problem. We didn't even use a spring compressor, we just put the strut top from each strut in a vise and I pushed as hard as I could to compress them while he quickly turned the top nut. As a hint, stick your hand through the spring and grab the strut cylinder to keep it from spinning while you buddy gets the nut off the strut top. But be ready for the jolt once that lest thread lets go. It worked fine. THE FRONTS SPRINGS ARE MORE COMPRESSED THAN THE REAR SPRINGS. Just wanted to let ya know so the strut top doesn't go flying off and hit ya in the face. I recomend getting a better grip on the fronts. You will see once that bitch pops.

The ride quality is great. YES YOU CAN NOTICE IT IS BUMPIER BUT NOT BY MUCH AT ALL. Handling is improved greatly.

Save this as a reference and PM me or Murray if you have any questions.

C-ya,
-Brian

Last edited by STR8OUT; 07-29-2002 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 07-29-2002, 12:40 PM   #4
Siper2
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Thumbs up

Good job on your Eibach set.

Yep, suspension installs are a royal pain. I purchased my FHI Version 5 struts from www.subaruwrxparts.com last October, and sourced matching V5 springs through a private buy from one of the Hawaii guys. In very late Oct. I rented out the MacPherson spring compressors and went over to kpratte's house during a garage day for the big event. JGard18 helped me with the work, as he'd done a V5 install himself.

Unfortunately he had to do most of the work, since I didn't know what to do, but I did as much as I could. So long as you have someone who knows what they're doing, and what needs to be done, and can't be forgotten... you'll be fine.

We did forget to tighten the strut top nuts after installation though, so the next night mine were banging around while I drove. I figured that's what it was, tightened everything down and it's been fine ever since. I occasionally worry if I tightened too much though, as I hear the torque spec is pretty light and I don't think I was that gentle with them...

If you have the money when doing a suspension change, don't forget to get some new strut tops! Either adjustable camber plates, or just some nice STi units to replace the OEM ones. I didn't do it because I didn't know about it. Someday I will, but in order to install those you have to take the suspension completely apart, again.

-S2-
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Old 07-29-2002, 12:56 PM   #5
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Default Re: Must read for people who are about to install springs!

Dude! Suspensions are easy! My record (just me) is 2.5 hours for a complete swap, including use of the spring compressor. Ask me again why I love Ingersoll-Rand air tools! The 231H makes quick work of those 19mm bolts, lemme tell ya.

Glad you got it done, sorry about the ride quality.

Kevin
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Old 07-29-2002, 01:14 PM   #6
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First thing I would like to say is WRXVII is absoulutely right. I installed my H&R springs on Sat. and you need a breaker bar!!! The most important tool. (along with some muscle) The 19mm bolts are an absolute B**** to break. Took me the whole day to install the four. Bout 6-7 hours but I did everything myself. So a second person would come in handy, but is not necessary. Couple words of advice:

Spray a little WD40 on the 19mm strut bolts prior to breaking them, it will make it a little easier.

Make sure you break the nut on the top before removing the strut(accidently took one out before doing that, had to put it back in to break it. Waste of time. Kind of embarrased about it, but hey hope someone learns from my mistakes.)

The black s*** all over the stock springs is filthy and nasty and will get all over your mothers rug if you forget to take your shoes off before you go into the house.

It gets easier as you go. The last one I did in about 40 min. If I needed to do it all over again it would probably take about 4 hours to do so, maybe less.

Other than that it is pretty basic and self explainitory. If anyone has any questions I would be more than happy to help anyway that I can.

Oh yeah....Drop is perfect...Ride is beautiful. Close to stock on good roads. You can definetly tell the difference on bumps though

Aaron
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Old 07-29-2002, 03:13 PM   #7
Storm Racing
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Did a set of prodrives without airtools in 2 hours 45 minutes, took a break for lunch and then did a second car with Eibachs.
Started at 930 in the morning and finished at 4:00 including taking a break for lunch and test driving both cars.

Amazing how fast you can do them after you've done 3 or 4..

Big breaker bar is essential , air tools aren't.

Hint : break the strut top bolts (ie the shock shaft) when the car is stil on the ground with some load on it. much easier this way.

tony
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Old 07-29-2002, 04:49 PM   #8
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let's keep this thread alive.... so people don't have to look around for info.... like I did.

Any more advice?
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Old 07-30-2002, 09:58 AM   #9
elvis14
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Default Thanks everyone

I just wanted to say thanks. I don't post that much but I read plenty. I'm planning to install Whiteline springs this Sunday and all the advice around here is great and really appreciated.

Now if I can just make sure I don't put the damn springs on up side down!
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Old 07-30-2002, 01:01 PM   #10
WRXVII
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$20 Impact Gun will save you about 20 min of work per wheel.
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Old 07-30-2002, 02:42 PM   #11
Storm Racing
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There is a definite flat end on the whitelines. That part goes to the top.
Hope this helps ya.

Tony
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Old 07-30-2002, 03:23 PM   #12
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You dont need to spend money on an impact gun. Just go to Home Depot and buy a 2 foot length of 2" thick pipe for about $3. Those previously hard to remove bolts will take about 5 seconds each.
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Old 07-30-2002, 04:08 PM   #13
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y2k .. i think he was refering to the strut top... and go for the 4' long pipe
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Old 07-30-2002, 04:48 PM   #14
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I'm about to do my springs install soon and I was wondering is a torque wrench really necessary? That's the only tool I dont have.

jonathan
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Old 07-30-2002, 05:11 PM   #15
WRXVII
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$20 impact gun comes handy because you can take off all four wheels in less than 5 minutes. Also, you won't need a 0-wretchet and a "T" allen key. BTW, $20 impact gun is not strong enough to break 19mm bolts.
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Old 07-30-2002, 06:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jaxx
y2k . and go for the 4' long pipe
I bought both.
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Old 07-30-2002, 06:54 PM   #17
Subies
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Is the 19mm lug nut wrench provided strong enough to break the 19mm bolts on the bottom of the strut? I'm considering the pipe idea as an extender to break those bolts.

jonathan
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Old 07-30-2002, 11:15 PM   #18
Storm Racing
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first a 18" breaker bar can loosen most bolts, i managed to on 4 cars anyways.
Alignment
went for max camber in fron, which was 1.3 neg and .6 in rear (with camber bolts)
0 toe in front and 1/8th toe out in rear

autocross setup.

Tony
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Old 07-30-2002, 11:30 PM   #19
Storm Racing
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that set up is really very conservative. I sont think you will see major tire wear with that.

Tony
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Old 07-30-2002, 11:31 PM   #20
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wow me and my friend did it in an hour and a half with air tools and a ton of bs'ing.

Brian
(airtools are your friends)
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Old 07-31-2002, 12:01 AM   #21
Jaxx
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toque wrench is important ..

as the strut top bolts are very soft and have been known to break tighten to only ~12 ft lbs
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Old 07-31-2002, 12:09 PM   #22
WRXVII
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Yeah true... they are very easy to overtighten and break. At what locations have you guys put the decals (Eibach, H&R... etc) at? I put it on rear right window.
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Old 07-31-2002, 02:21 PM   #23
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this may seem like a stupid question to some of you, but hey that's how you learn. I wanted to lower my car (96 L Coupe 2.2/AWD with 17"P7's) not only for appearance, but more importantly for the advantages of having a lower center of gravity. Would you guys recommend doing the entire strut/spring install at once? Will I need additional parts than just the strut and spring (each wheel respectively)? For example, I've heard top mounts/pillow mounts mentioned, i'm new to suspension and have done some research. What would you guys recommend as a good set-up for my car, it's a daily driver w/ 90k on it. Roads here are relatively good, I like a stiffer but comfortable ride, I don't auto-x but might when my car is finished (engine swap soon). I'm not asking you guys to research for me, just kind of want to get an idea of what would work best for least amount $$$ - someone suggested RS struts and Eibach sportkit as an option- any thoughts, opinions welcome- thanks a lot -mike
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Old 07-31-2002, 03:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by WRXVII
$20 impact gun comes handy because you can take off all four wheels in less than 5 minutes. Also, you won't need a 0-wretchet and a "T" allen key. BTW, $20 impact gun is not strong enough to break 19mm bolts.
My $20 impact gun has invincible strenth. It got them off. It just took a couple of times for the gun to spool and "whack" the nut. It worked for me. I would go to pep boys and get a breaker bar just so you know your covered if your $20 gun wont cut it.

Also. It is very important that when you mount your new rear springs on, Make sure that the arrow on the strut (rear only) to points directly towards the out side of the car. This helps when you reinstall the strut/spring assembly back in the car.
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Old 08-01-2002, 04:33 PM   #25
Swano
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Quick question : Does the brake line need to be disconnected like on GC8 when you take the struts off??

Thanks!

Phil =)
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