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Old 07-31-2011, 09:19 PM   #1
TheShadowWRX
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Member#: 11654
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: DE, Happy Valley
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan
WR Blue

Default Tons of Corrosion, Rusty Bolts - Need to Clean Somehow

Hey Guys,

As you may have seen in some of my other threads, I'm trying to recondition my whole 02 WRX and one big area of concern for me is under the hood. The car sat for the last 8 months and before that for two summers in a garage but we live in a very damp area so there is a lot of corrosion, rusty bolts, etc all over the engine bay that I need to clean up.

I figure there most be some process to clean these bits up, somehow... I took a few pictures with my iPhone to try to show you what I mean...







Thx!
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:49 AM   #2
prokaw875
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: North Eastern, Conn.
Vehicle:
GG Outback Sport
Version 8 EJ207

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I would think honestly replacing as many bolts as you can is your best bet. Other than that I would have them chemical stripped and maybe there is some type of clear rust free coating you can put on the heads without changing the treads size/depth.

Honestly though by looking at your motor(no offense) you should worry about other stuff before the bolts. I.E. Powdercoat your intake mani. Have your alt. cage polished/powdercoated. Take a buffing wheel/polish your radiator. Repaint your coolant overflow tray. And a alternator cover would clean up the bay alot. I think once you did that stuff they start to focus on replcing/finishing the bolts
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:01 PM   #3
SubieDugie
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Location: VB, Va.
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2005 STi
WR Blue

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You are dealing with more aluminum oxide than iron oxide(rust). I would cleaning the engine bay in sections and removing as much as possible to avoid having cleaners and water in areas you don't want them, i.e. the alternator. Also, just moving lines out of the way to make it easier to get to everything will help. I say work in section because you only have about a twenty minute window for removing and treating corrosion. The aluminum parts would benefit from Flitz Aluminum Pre-Clean and mild agitation with scouring pads/brushes. This engine bay is not a one day project if you want it looking new again. So get a game plan together and research how to remove stuff that will benefit from cleaning/polishing out of the engine bay. I would invest in some good masking tape/duck tape to cover things that you don't want sprayed with water and cleaner, like painted surfaces. Removing hardware and cleaning it and removing rust/corrosion would be the best method if you are wanting to replace every nut/bolt/washer that has corrosion on it. DupliColor Rust Fix is a great product for sealing hardware/metal after you have removed the rust as much as possible. [If you don't remove rust it will come back and continue to spread under whatever you spray over it.] DC Rust Fix requires 24 hours curing time before applying a top coat/color coat. You will need plenty of prep solvent and lint free cloths to prep any surfaces that are going to be painted. Prep work is always the most important step to creating any well finished project. To polish and seal any surfaces that are not going to be painted I recommend Flitz Polish which will seal for 6 months in fresh water environments and up to 3 month in salt water. It works on everything from polish metals like chrome, aluminum, and copper, to plastics, fiberglass, and headlights.
Have fun and keep us updated.
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:30 AM   #4
TheShadowWRX
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: DE, Happy Valley
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2002 WRX Sedan
WR Blue

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Wow thanks for the great advice!

I'll look into the products you recommended and put together a game plan...

You have given me hope that it is possible to restore the luster to the engine bay!


Thx,

Mike
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:41 AM   #5
Daddy_Digital
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Location: Mesa, AZ
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i have alot of rust too. im noticing that when i try to take them off, they either froze or the break off. how do i take these broken bolts off?
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:10 AM   #6
9vapors
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Location: NY
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*

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I'm in the same boat and mine is a 2008. The previous owner didnt take care of the car at all...
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:01 PM   #7
lunchmeat79
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have you tried the green scotch bright pads and a copper gun cleaning brush, they will clean up the aluminum stuff really well
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:08 PM   #8
SubieDugie
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2005 STi
WR Blue

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Look into CorrosionX on Autogeek. It is supposed to be like WD-40 and PB Blaster combined on crack.lol No really, it gets great reviews. I haven't used it as CorrosionX, but I did use it when I was in the Navy.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:35 PM   #9
Bikelok
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2002 Wrx wagon 5mt
PSM

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Don't just cover up the oxidation with new covers and crap. Take the time (lots of it) and scrub, polish, protect as much as you can. The longer you leave it the harder to remove. If it starts to pit then forget about it ever looking new. Lots and lots of elbow grease. You can do it, just be patient and methodical. Look up threads on how to clean an engine compartment. You don't have to cover up much and you just use a regular hose (no high pressure). Yes you can pour water over most of your engine compartment. Look it up.
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:26 AM   #10
Daddy_Digital
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2002 WRX Sport Wagon
World Rally Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieDugie View Post
Look into CorrosionX on Autogeek. It is supposed to be like WD-40 and PB Blaster combined on crack.lol No really, it gets great reviews. I haven't used it as CorrosionX, but I did use it when I was in the Navy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Don't just cover up the oxidation with new covers and crap. Take the time (lots of it) and scrub, polish, protect as much as you can. The longer you leave it the harder to remove. If it starts to pit then forget about it ever looking new. Lots and lots of elbow grease. You can do it, just be patient and methodical. Look up threads on how to clean an engine compartment. You don't have to cover up much and you just use a regular hose (no high pressure). Yes you can pour water over most of your engine compartment. Look it up.
Bikelok - http://www.corrosionx.com/rust-remover.html check it out and read it. need proof? as SubieDugie how well that stuff worked while in the navy. metal out at sea would rust so fast if it werent for stuff like this. i do agree with you. dont just cover it up. i got some rust on my rear quater panels that i want to remove the rust and have repainted so it doesnt occur again.
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