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Old 08-30-2011, 02:32 PM   #1
invisiblecity
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Member#: 141093
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Groton MASS
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza Outback
Garnet Red Pearl

Default HELP: Rust repair/touch up with airbrush

Hello All,

This weekend I will be repairing 4 small (from dime to nickel in size) rust spots on my roof. They are rusting in the very early stages so the removal should not be that bad.

I would just like some expert advice on a few steps.

I'm going to start by flaking off the bubbled paint and then sanding out the rust from each spot.

I clean with a 70% Iso Alcohol.

I would like to put a thick plastic drop cloth over the car with just the areas around each rust spot exposed. I'm thinking I should expose a bit of space around the holes re blending.

Next I will apply POR or the like in order to neutralize any remaining tiny bits of rust.

I'll let that dry over night and then apply filler primer.

What grade of sandpaper is best for sanding the primer at this point?

I'll sand til smooth and near even with surrounding paint.

Do I need to apply a sealer between primer and paint?

For the paint I am taking a 1oz Subaru touch up paint tube (Garnet Red Pearl) dumping it in a glass jar (w/airbrush nozzle connector on lid) and mixing it with slightly less than equal amount of auto-grade thinner.

BIG QUESTION: When apply coats of color, do I slightly overshoot the repair area? Will I be sanding that slightly expanded area so that the repair blends in with existing paint? What is the progression of sandpaper grade for this process? I assume I am only sanding the outer areas where the new and old paint meet with something like 1500. This can be polished out correct.

Do I shoot clear over freshly sanded paint? Is that how it works?

Does the clear also get sanded?


Thanks for any help you can give.
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Old 08-30-2011, 03:00 PM   #2
MattTHEpainter
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Member#: 284046
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: CT
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza w/ WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by invisiblecity
Hello All,

This weekend I will be repairing 4 small (from dime to nickel in size) rust spots on my roof. They are rusting in the very early stages so the removal should not be that bad.

I would just like some expert advice on a few steps.

I'm going to start by flaking off the bubbled paint and then sanding out the rust from each spot.

I clean with a 70% Iso Alcohol.

I would like to put a thick plastic drop cloth over the car with just the areas around each rust spot exposed. I'm thinking I should expose a bit of space around the holes re blending.

Next I will apply POR or the like in order to neutralize any remaining tiny bits of rust.

I'll let that dry over night and then apply filler primer.

What grade of sandpaper is best for sanding the primer at this point?

I'll sand til smooth and near even with surrounding paint.

Do I need to apply a sealer between primer and paint?

For the paint I am taking a 1oz Subaru touch up paint tube (Garnet Red Pearl) dumping it in a glass jar (w/airbrush nozzle connector on lid) and mixing it with slightly less than equal amount of auto-grade thinner.

BIG QUESTION: When apply coats of color, do I slightly overshoot the repair area? Will I be sanding that slightly expanded area so that the repair blends in with existing paint? What is the progression of sandpaper grade for this process? I assume I am only sanding the outer areas where the new and old paint meet with something like 1500. This can be polished out correct.

Do I shoot clear over freshly sanded paint? Is that how it works?

Does the clear also get sanded?

Thanks for any help you can give.
A picture of the area that needs to be refinished would hep.

•Make sure you use a rust inhibitor that can be finished over.

•You want to sand high build primer with 400 grit wet paper. Feather out with 6-800 if needed. Don't create any hard lines with the primer, always back tape and never spray to an edge. Give yourself ample work area.

•Sealing such a small area is overkill. Just get a medium grey primer and you should be good.

•I would recommend getting a 1/2 pint of base from a paint supply store, and appropriately reduce the base. Is there any spec sheets for the touch up that has ratios for thinning?

•When blending you always overlap with existing paint. You should pick up a 3M grey scotchbright and scuff beyond any blends for proper adhesion to existing paint. You could use 1000 grit wet as well. Then buff the blends.

•Let base flash, depending on conditions, for about ten minutes between coats. You should be able to touch it without smudging.

•Apply clear and wait a day, then sand with 2000 grit wet.

Any further questions or clarifications just ask. Post pictures and I'll outline where to blend etc.
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:17 PM   #3
invisiblecity
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Member#: 141093
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Groton MASS
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza Outback
Garnet Red Pearl

Default

Thanks much, Matt. That info is very helpful!

I will get pics up ASAP.

I would recommend getting a 1/2 pint of base from a paint supply store, and appropriately reduce the base. Is there any spec sheets for the touch up that has ratios for thinning?

I don't know of any spec sheets. I used this method before for small repair on an old subie. I got the advice from a guy who ran my local PPG store.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:50 PM   #4
invisiblecity
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Member#: 141093
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Groton MASS
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza Outback
Garnet Red Pearl

Default

So, I couldn't get a decent pic (work has been hell this week).

However, here is an example of what I'm dealing with. I have one that is about half the size of this, and three others that are smaller than that.

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Old 09-02-2011, 11:21 PM   #5
MattTHEpainter
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Member#: 284046
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: CT
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza w/ WRX

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Make sure you post progress pictures!
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:53 AM   #6
invisiblecity
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 141093
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Groton MASS
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza Outback
Garnet Red Pearl

Default

Turned out looking like ****.

I could not get the clear to blend w/o looking like overspray. Plus, the actual painted area just seemed to drink in the clear and remain matte.

Oh, and not to mention the holes from where I sanded out the two larger areas of rust are still evident.

PLAN B: I was quoted by a local auto body at $500 for a complete sand down, re primer, base coat and clear of the roof. Is that reasonable?

Auto body painting is HARD!!!!
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