Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday April 19, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Electrical & Lighting

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-31-2011, 03:05 AM   #1
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Subaru Stars DIY - Aftermarket Fog Light Install - Independent Lighting - Based on L Bumper

This DIY will work on any model or for any switch powered lighting. Yours may be different, but it does give you an Idea. GOOD LUCK!

I promised a few people awhile ago I would send them the wire diagram of running switches and fogs on an Outback Sport (OBS) or a L style bumper for you L advocates!!.. It led me to write this whole DIY and It'll also help out anyone trying to install aftermarket lighting of anysort or power anything with a switch that is aftermarket... LED lighting, Extra fogs, Running Lights, Under Carraige Lighting (yuck), & anything you can think of that you want to run power to based on an on off switch... here are some pictures below on how mine looked and how nice and snug it worked out on my L bumper-



Here is a complete schematic on what you need, a how-to and how much nicer it is to have your own independent lighting system.

This is not the OEM style fog lighting set up yet is based on an aftermarket relay that can produce more wattage than a OEM based relay.

First, this is going to take alot of patience, a little fabrication and time to get it right and get it done correctly.

Parts Needed:

- 2 Oval shaped Fog Lights (try to match your exsiting OEM fog light insert pattern, some fabrication may be neccesary.. but mine fit perfect after a little cutting out of the plastic mesh on my inserts.. use preferably PIAA or HELLA 55 watt or higher is ok for this set up) this can also work for any other lighting or system that needs power ran as a switch, such as LED, under carraige lighting, and extra fogs.. The PIAA Chromatic lights will fit perfect and are HIGHLY RECCOMENDED!

- Aftermarket 30 amp Relay (the 4 prong kind that you can find at any autozone, etc... it can run two 55 watt + fogs with ease)

- Aftermarket Switch.. non lit, two prong - power and ground type.. with this relay setup your switch is acted as a ground set up meaning that NO POWER IS USED TO YOUR SWITCH. meaning your little fancy lit up switches wont work unless you jump power from your fuse box near by, but I dont recommend doing this.. (I used the switch that came with the lights)

- Any 12 AWG or smaller wiring.. I used 14 AWM AWG wiring for the lights & 16 for the switches.. (preferably black, green & red for power, ground and switch differences) you'll want atleast 40 ft. to play it safe.

- 2 Junction Fuse Splices.. you will see them in pics below.. (they are used for marine electrical and are a water tight single fuse box on about a 8 inch section yellow wiring, my 5amp fuse was already in the box with smaller gauge wiring than the 15amp), you will need one 5 Amp Fuse & one 15 Amp Fuse wiring.. *is not necessary but acts as insurance to blow a fuse rather then your light..

- Depending on car, or lighting placement, around 30ft of 1/2 inch flex wire covering.

- Red, Blue or Yellow butt splices (try to find or use all splicing that is waterproof and not the exposed kind.. depending on the color wire you use & you'll need atleast 6 depending on how many junctions you use.. the less the better)

- 6 female connectors (or more, depending on errors.. that connect to the relay terminal and switch)

- 1 Multi connector (its a U shaped connector that has two male prongs on it and a female connector so you can connect two wires to one without splicing.. it is used to connect both powers from lighting to one terminal on your relay)

- 4 ground style splices the circle 1/2 inch or 1/4 inch are better then the U style.. they stay on.. I found this out the hard way.. (2 for your battery connection and 2 to ground your wiring)

- 1/4 inch shrink tubing to seal all connections, splices, etc.. *is not necessary but is insurance!

- Lastly, because Subaru is amazing and made new improved snap inserts, go to your local dealership and grab 10 of the replacement snaps that go on your front end to hold your dust/dirt guards on...they now have philips head style screw in so you dont have to "pop" or break the inserts everytime you take the guards off.. youll know what im talking about as soon as you look at your front end..

Tools Needed:

- Jack & Jack Stands
- Small torch, lighter or heat gun for shrink tubing
- Wire cutters or strippers that have crimpers and/or crimpers if they dont have them
- A nail (use to heat up and melt little hole in firewall to pull wires through)
- Zip-ties
- Permanent Marker (to mark your fog light harness placement holes)
- Electrical tape
- Size 10 & ? size socket wrench *unsure on sizing I will check tomorrow
- Dremel tool, hacksaw or some kind of small powered cutting device to cut switch plate
- Xacto knife, or any kind of razor blade to cut/fabricate your exsisting fog light inserts
- Power drill & Self Tapping screws to place fog light holding brackets in correct position

Now Getting to it: THE DIRTY WORK
*If installing extra lighting, exterior lighting, or anyother lighting other then specified fog lights, you can skip the certain sections and go on into the wire runs and relay maps*

*I never had to remove my bumper or any lighting for this at all..

1. Unpackage your lighting or whatever you are going to use and find out how it is supposed to be mounted, etc.

2. Disguard any of the extra wiring or stuff they gave you, all you need is the positive and ground wires that come out of the light and the switch (if you want to use the factory one, which works just fine)

3. Cut the stock wiring about a foot away from the lamps giving you room to work with, especially in splicing your new "more profecient" wiring on.. you can slide a little 1 1/2 inch peice of your shrink tubing over the wiring on all the wires, then strip the wire with 1/4 inch exposed for a butt splice to attach to. Crimp the butt splice and wait for your next steps to run the wiring to butt in the other end eventually.

4. Cut your OEM or aftermarket fog light inserts to spec size of fog lights purchased.. (mine worked so good, they actually *clicked* into place when I pushed them in to the cut out area I made.. making the whole process of angle, positioning and setup SO much easier.. unfortunately this applies to us "L" style bumper advocates which was only trimming out the plastic OEM mesh material and creating an almost beveled internal part for the light housing to slide into.)

5. Once the lights either slide in, or are close enough to the cut you made that you can be satisfied, wrap electrical tape around the internal casing of your inserts and your external casing of your fog lamps creating a secure temporary harness and potential watertight surrounding for your lights.. but mainly just used for an extra hand in holding your lights in place while you place the lamp brackets in place.. (if you can see in the picture below with my foglight and its harness in place, I actually had the lights attached to the OEM insert by using the tape and it made it VERY EASY to line up the harness brackets.)

6. Bracket positioning... well depending on which way you went at lining up your lights to your OEM or aftermarket inserts, you'll first have to jack up your front end (not necessary but makes things ALOT easier). Use jack stands ALWAYS to hold your front end suspended... Take your wheels off to make things extra easy (then again, not necessary). Now, carefully find all the pressure snap and screws that hold your front end mud/dirt guards on and snap them off. There should be two screw style bolts that you will have to use a philips head to remove these as well... I broke a few while doing so, and trust me its well worth going to the dealership and buying their new style ones with a philips head on them so you dont have to break them off while removing them.. same on both sides.. there should be 4 or 5 connection points. You will know what I mean when you look! here is an example (the guard is already semi taken off in the picture)..



After removing the guards, you will be able to access the internal parts of your fog inserts and can line up the fog harnesses to your insert, and frame or internal body structure. First I used a permanant marker to mark the spots that needed to be screwed in, then pre-drilled very small holes for the self tapping screws to go in.. it just made things easier predrilling the holes but you dont have to.. Here is a picture of where I mounted my bracket.. Also gives you an Idea of the lining up of the fog lights...



This process of lining up your brackets and inserts takes a while and be patient do it right, or else your foglights wont be angled in the right direction...

7. After lining up the brackets, install your fogs with your exsisting modified or aftermarket fog inserts attached (should be easy if you lined them up right)... tighten them down to the brackets depending on which way your lights are set up.. (this part is a pain in the arss and can take some time, I had a philips that was used to tighten them so I had to put a drill bit on a socket wrench to get in close enough to tighten the lamps to the harnesses. If you did not choose the way of mounting to your inserts first, then clip in your inserts, make sure everything is snug and fits just right, make sure all angles work with OEM or aftermarket fog angles. Usually they are set correctly to work correctly @ lighting positioning (mine were spot on perfect).

READ AND APPLY TO ALL STEPS OF WIRING - While running your wires, keep in mind that clean, organized wiring is the best way to go and will last the longest.. for example: I ran my fog light power wiring along side of the battery power wires throughout the 1/4 inch flex tubing all the way to the relay, I also ran the switch wiring around the engine bay within the 1/4 flex from the firewall all the way to the relay.. And along the way, I wrapped the flex with sections of electrical tape and using zip-ties to hold wiring close and away from objects creating a clean path of wiring. Not only does it look good but its alot easier to work with overall.

Now getting to it: The WIRE RUNS This is the breeze part of the job and should be the less time consuming part..

1. You will want to figure out where you want to put your Aftermarket relay to run your wires to. REMEMBER: THE CLOSER YOUR RELAY IS TO YOUR LIGHTS, THE MORE POWER RAN TO THEM! (I chose the passenger side front end and used the bolt that holds the Air induction chamber (a big black waste of a box under your passenger side wheel well that feeds your car filter its air.. if you have an intake and have removed the box, use any bolt close to that that will work to hold your relay down). You can put your relay anywhere youd like, hell, you can even use a self tapping screw to mount it anywhere under your wheel well.. you can even mount it up under the dash, but keep in mind that 5 wires are going to be ran to it, and like I said before, the closer your relay is to your lights, the more power output your lights will recieve!

2. Once you have figured out your relay placement, start with running your switch wiring, you'll need two wires THESE WIRES WILL BE CONNECTED TO BOTH A GROUND ON YOUR CAR AND A SEPERATE SPOT ON YOUR RELAY #85. It will work as a Ground to close your circut on your relay making your switch a NON POWERED switch that just closes the ground connection making a overall better connection for your lights and not running power through your dash area. (I had two 16 AWG preconnected wires, two different colors, blue & black which made it alot easier to distinguish differences and run through the flex wiring.)

- Run your chosen wiring first in the 1/4 inch flex tubing which saves hassle with later and also creates a clean wiring job.. I just ran about 15 feet worth to play it safe at first.. look at the picture below to see how I ran mine.. depending on relay placement its all up to you! Find your firewall inserts (there should be a couple depending on AT or MT you might have more/less) I used the firewall insert that was closer to the passenger side. It was easier to access here is a picture of where I ran it:



- Remove firewall insert (very easy using a flat head or just your fingers) and heat up the nail or something to poke a hole in the center of your insert... this is where you will run about 3 feet of wire through your insert and plug your insert back in the hole... run wiring behind pedals and towards your internal fuse box zip tie to areas that are non essential to make tighter wire runs..

**You can place your switch anywhere you want, so this process I did is not necessary**

- Remove your fusebox cover, carefully remove your dash inserts using a small flathead screw driver or even a razor blade will work (these are located next to your cruise control button, etc depending on your model they are the blank covers somewhere above your fusebox).. Starting with the one located closest to your cruise control and moving to the right.. selecting whichever one you want (you will find in the insert next to your CC that there is a wiring harness, that is for your OEM foglight switch, which you can use on other lights or even replace the wiring with the lights just installed, later down the road when you want to use this setup for extra high powered lighting)... I chose this way because it provides cleaner power to my fogs.. I figured the last insert looked the best to use so I removed that insert.. then run wiring however you like behind your pedals and up through the vacated dash insert spot.. this is how it looks with the wires ran through, and finished:



- Now, with whichever dash insert you have removed and whichever switch you have chosen, line up the switch to the insert and see what its going to look like.. My switch had a casing around it that it snapped into.. the casing was supposed to be either tape mounted or screwed in, I actually snapped the switch out of the casing, lined up the tag ends of the switch that snapped in, and traced an outline on my OEM insert.

- Making room for your switch on your OEM insert is a very precise and mod job thing to do but if you have the right tools and the steady hand it is pretty quick and is easy to do.. Start by using some kind of cutting mechanism, cut the internal parts of your OEM insert down to almost the face.. the highlighted area in the picture below are the areas I cut using the dremel "saw" tool (DO NOT CUT THE INSERT TAGS AS THESE ARE WHAT HOLD IT IN PLACE)



- Now that you have the back end of your OEM insert ready for switch install, get the front ready for cutting. if you havent already, trace the INNER part of your switch that will make the switch face flush and the TAGS FROM THE SWITCH "SNAP" SNUG INTO PLACE.. it is VERY IMPORTANT YOU DO NOT OVER CUT THE SWITCH AREA on the insert! (using a dremel with the vibrating saw was amazing for this)

- Now that your Switch wiring and switch insert are ready, you can go ahead and connect the wires to your switch or just continue with the running of the wiring.. run the wiring long enough to reach your relay from your switch (thru the firewall, around the engine bay, and down to your relay) give yourself around a foot of extra room near your relay. cut your wires and move to the next step.

3. Running your grounds and power wiring to your lights and to your relay- your lights power sources will be ran seperately then connected together using the U shaped 2 male 1 female splice connector (sorry I dont know the proper name, but its used to connect two wires together and have them both slip onto a male prong as in one relay prong. The piece is shown in the bottom left corner of the below picture. These power runs connected together will be attached to your #30 prong on your relay. The grounds from your lights will be seperately ran to your frame grounds which can be found by looking in your engine bay and using your existing ground locations (locations shown in picture as well). ALWAYS REMEMBER TO CLEAN GROUNDING AREAS AND CREATE A SECURE GROUND CONNECTION!

- Splice your ends to your grounding location, use your grounding connectors and use your shrink tubing to create a water tight seal around the wiring and splice, use your heat gun or torch to shrink the tubing over the splice itself.



- Now run your Power wires directly from your batteries, DO NOT CONNECT WIRING TO BATTERIES UNTIL THEY ARE CONNECTED TO RELAY! Try to find a clean route that will not be in the way of anything and can be easily accesed.. here is a picture below:

http://www.southernutahflooring.com/...bie/13last.jpg
- Battery terminal & power supply wiring.. You will be using two wires that will both be spliced and butted to your fuse box wires.. This is not needed, but acts as a safety and security device.. Easier changing out fuses then entire wiring or any bulbs, or even the accesories your are lighting up. You will need a 5amp and a 15amp fuse for each of these boxes (some of the actual ones you can buy come this way with different gauge wiring). The 15amp box and wiring after you splice & shrink seal will be connected to the #87 prong on your relay acting as your main source of power to your lighting. The other 5amp box will be connected to the #86 prong on your relay acting as your source of power to your relay.



- After you have made sure that your wires are in the right locations, connected properly and ready to be fired up.. DO A DOUBLE CHECK on your relay and your wiring!!.. #30 of your relay should have both powers of your lighting connected to it, #87 should have the 15amp fuse box splice and direct connection to your battery powering your lights, #86 should have the 5amp fuse box splice and direct connection to your battery powering your relay, & #85 should have your Load "L" or #2 non grounded wire to your switch set up. Look at your picture above for a double check.. Make sure your "B" or Bearing or #1 on your switch is grounded, as well as your grounds for your lights are all seperately grounded as well!

- Powering up your lights, ALWAYS USE CAUTION WHILE WORKING AROUND BATTERIES.. MAKE SURE YOU NEVER ARE TOUCHING BOTH RED AND BLACK on battery terminal.. now that ALL YOUR GROUNDS AND YOUR WIRES ARE CONNECTED TO YOUR RELAY, because your switch is acting as a ground to the relay, you do not have to worry if the switch is on or off.. connect your remaining two wires that you ran to your battery from your relay to your ground connectors, heat shrink them, and get them ready to connect to the RED POWER TERMINAL on your battery. Now loosen and remove your tightening nut from your RED POWER terminal on your batteries cable connection and slide both your wires onto the bolt you just unscrewed the nut from.. Tighten the bolt back on, tightening and securing your wires to your batteries power terminal.

- Turn your switch on.... AND ENJOY YOUR NEW FOG LIGHTS!!

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by rippinlips; 09-05-2011 at 01:22 PM. Reason: not finished yet.... just had to save
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2011, 03:53 AM   #2
Silicon_70
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 147253
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Silicon Valley
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5RS
Aspen White

Default

subscribed...
Silicon_70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2011, 04:34 AM   #3
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silicon_70 View Post
subscribed...
hope you know this was mainly for you buddy!! im sure it will help alot of people doing their own wiring as well!! it'll be done shortly i promise!
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2011, 10:09 AM   #4
Big-E
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 123843
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Connecticut
Vehicle:
2006 SGM WRX S2
Let LED's light your way!

Default

Good write-up, but please tell me that you were not working underneath the car using only OEM jacks?!

ALWAYS USE JACK-STANDS!!

I would omit this picture from your write-up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rippinlips View Post
These are just pictures that will be posted to the DIY and information will be posted with all steps, including pictures and setups of the relay diagram:


Big-E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2011, 01:48 PM   #5
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

oh

my

god

Chumley....what are we gonna do with you...we dont need or want any stupid under carriage lighting write up....and for christ sake....use jack stands before you blood stain the driveway
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2011, 04:52 PM   #6
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Have a Nice Day? why all the hate.. appreciate!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Good write-up, but please tell me that you were not working underneath the car using only OEM jacks?!

ALWAYS USE JACK-STANDS!!

I would omit this picture from your write-up:
Jack stands were used but just not in this picture, I just decided to lift the front end with two OEM stands before I put the Jack stands under.. I will take the picture out if it really bothers you people..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
oh

my

god

Chumley....what are we gonna do with you...we dont need or want any stupid under carriage lighting write up....and for christ sake....use jack stands before you blood stain the driveway
1... as I posted above, jack stands were and ALWAYS WILL BE used to keep a car lifted, they just were not in that specific picture..

2... its not focused on under carriage lighting its focused on AFTERMARKET LIGHTING OF ANY SORT. I am sure that the ricers out there are all about it.. (no I am not one of them).

why is it that all people do is hate on this site when people are only trying to help out?!
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2011, 03:59 PM   #7
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Talking done.. fin.. fineto!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silicon_70 View Post
subscribed...
She's ready... I typed alot more and had more pictures but it limited me to only a certain amount... Good luck if you need any help let me know!
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2011, 08:55 PM   #8
khail19
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 14489
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Reno, Nevada
Vehicle:
2005 FXT 5 spd
Cayenne Red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rippinlips View Post
- Any 12 AWG or larger wiring.. I used 14 AWM AWG wiring for the lights & 16 for the switches.. (preferably black, green & red for power, ground and switch differences) you'll want atleast 40 ft. to play it safe.
This part is a bit misleading, it might be confusing for someone who doesn't understand how wire sizing works. Should say 12 AWG or smaller wiring.
khail19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2011, 05:42 AM   #9
Silicon_70
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 147253
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Silicon Valley
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5RS
Aspen White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rippinlips View Post
She's ready... I typed alot more and had more pictures but it limited me to only a certain amount... Good luck if you need any help let me know!
This is awesome information. Thank you for putting in the time to get this done. I really appreciate it.

This should be a sticky.
Silicon_70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2011, 01:20 PM   #10
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by khail19 View Post
This part is a bit misleading, it might be confusing for someone who doesn't understand how wire sizing works. Should say 12 AWG or smaller wiring.
Corrected thanks for the reply!
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2011, 01:27 AM   #11
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Default

hope this helped someone!
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2011, 09:39 PM   #12
KsF105
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 296193
Join Date: Sep 2011
Default

Sick write up. I'll be using this in the next few weeks to install a set of FF75 driving and fogs.. I am having the most trouble finding a multiconnector though.. No auto stores around me have them nor does radio shack. weird.

thanks!
KsF105 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 02:30 PM   #13
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KsF105 View Post
Sick write up. I'll be using this in the next few weeks to install a set of FF75 driving and fogs.. I am having the most trouble finding a multiconnector though.. No auto stores around me have them nor does radio shack. weird.

thanks!
Are you talking about the two male and one female piece or the relay itself? If you have any marine shops by you they propbaly have one, my setpfather is a boat mechanic thats where i got mine from, if worse comes to worse you can always splice each wire together to form one, but I wouldnt reccomend it. PM me if you have any questions!!!

rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2012, 03:16 AM   #14
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Default

i just looked at this post and realized all pictures are down! i will be reposting very shortly, if any one at all has questions let me know!
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2013, 06:35 PM   #15
Sideways17
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312261
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Cloverdale, BC
Vehicle:
2012 WRX STi
Satin White Pearl

Default

I am about to wire in some PIAA's. I would love to see your diagrams, but like you mentioned, the pictures are down.

Sideways17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2013, 08:14 PM   #16
rippinlips
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 283400
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SC, lake tahoe, UT, PHX
Vehicle:
1999 OBS & FXT
GM & SWP

Default

bump for a dead thread and for me posting diagrams and pictures.. as I just replaced the bulbs with HID H3's and took all new fresh pictures.. should be posted asap
rippinlips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2013, 10:53 AM   #17
copland
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 355330
Join Date: May 2013
Default

Nice Write up! Thanks for the info.
copland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2013, 04:02 PM   #18
RSTM
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 204463
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Huntersville,NC
Vehicle:
2002 Legacy
Timberline Metallic

Default

any way to get the pictures to work again?
RSTM is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Owner - Long Awaited Day Zellner Newbies & FAQs 8 05-23-2011 11:34 AM
DIY - Independant Fog Light MOD. RumblingREX Interior & Exterior Modification 0 02-22-2005 12:06 AM
DIY MY02 fog light cover bracket that work with fog lights installed Darren_2.5RS Mid West Subaru Owners Club Forum -- MWSOC 0 03-05-2002 03:28 PM
the long awaited pics.... Bill.B South West Impreza Club Forum -- SWIC 5 02-13-2001 08:52 PM
New long awaited pics of my RS Sedan Leonardo General Forum Archive 31 08-13-2000 12:55 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.