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Old 09-19-2011, 06:59 PM   #26
MattTHEpainter
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Any questions?
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:35 AM   #27
lllarrolll
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Well, I just bought a front lip for my 2010 2.5i. It came black and a little scratched up lol. Polyurethane in material it is. What is the proper way to have it primed and painted to match my car color? A friend of mine said there is a place in CT (I'm in Hartford area) that will make you a spray can of your color code that would be just like the real car paint? I haven't seen him in a while so I have yet to ask him what place. Any advice?
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:54 AM   #28
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i pm'ed matt this last night:

i bought this sti that had a color change paintjob. they never cut in the door jams so the original black is still there. i am thinking of painting it back to black. the color change paint is in really good contiditon. what do i need to do to get it ready for paint? sand all the way down to primer of just take the "shine" off? thanks


his reply:

Is it single stage, or base/clear? If there is no chips and the clear coat doesn't have any imperfections; buy some grey scotch bright pads, and a scuffing compound like "scuff stuff". All you have to do is "take the shine off", like you said. The scuff pads are much quicker than sand paper, and last a lot longer. Don't get crazy sanding down to primer unless there is imperfections in the paint or adhesion problems. I would just seal over the existing paint before shooting it black. Any other questions just ask.

Matt

thanks for the reply. it is a base/clear paint.
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:15 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lllarrolll View Post
Well, I just bought a front lip for my 2010 2.5i. It came black and a little scratched up lol. Polyurethane in material it is. What is the proper way to have it primed and painted to match my car color? A friend of mine said there is a place in CT (I'm in Hartford area) that will make you a spray can of your color code that would be just like the real car paint? I haven't seen him in a while so I have yet to ask him what place. Any advice?
So the lip is new and has the factory e-coat primer on it? If so, sand out any shallow scratches with 400 grit (wet) paper. Any deeper scratches fill with glaze then sand.

I would then use a flexible surface primer with good adhesion properties to plastic. Then you can base/clear.

To answer your other question; most auto body/paint supply stores will gladly put your paint code in a spray can. It will be base coat, so you will then have to clear over it. I am not familiar with the Hartford area paint stores, but I do know of two places in the New Haven area that will definitely put base in a rattle can. PM me for details.
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:17 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxpert View Post
i pm'ed matt this last night:

i bought this sti that had a color change paint job. .
Post up pictures! I would like to see this color.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:47 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
Do you already have the trunk welded shut? If so, power pad sander and work it slowly flat. If they didn't tap the holes down before they welded them then you'll have to get a flat tube of metal to bang it down, then add body filler to build it back up. It will probably take a few times. Did my trunk and it took three times to get it perfect.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:51 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XanRules View Post
dude
That hood will NEVER look quite right

Take your car to Spray-Glo in Duluth off of Buford Highway. Tell them I sent you. It will not set you back much.
Not true, a person who knows what they're doing can make a rattlecan look better than a noob with a spraygun. However, since he is asking the question should he sand it all down, then chance are it probably would not come out right.


As a note, the best way to paint and make it really nice is to strip all the paint off the object be it wheels, car parts etc, (using paint remover like Aircraft remover) then start from scratch, you will never be able to fill in chips with more paint.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:53 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
So the lip is new and has the factory e-coat primer on it? If so, sand out any shallow scratches with 400 grit (wet) paper. Any deeper scratches fill with glaze then sand.

I would then use a flexible surface primer with good adhesion properties to plastic. Then you can base/clear.

To answer your other question; most auto body/paint supply stores will gladly put your paint code in a spray can. It will be base coat, so you will then have to clear over it. I am not familiar with the Hartford area paint stores, but I do know of two places in the New Haven area that will definitely put base in a rattle can. PM me for details.

There's a few places online too. I've always had really good results from Paintscratch.com. My $0.02
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:45 PM   #34
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Ok so I have a Blue 2002 subaru WRX that badly needs painted and I was planning on doing it myself. I have painted a car before, but only with autozone paint and I wasnt trying to be perfect. What paint would be a good match to the blue I have so I wont have to worry about inside the door and trunk area. And if I did change the color, how much work would it take to do all of that?
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:25 AM   #35
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I would get your paint from a local distributor. I say this because they will be able to give you advice and tips on the paint brand you choose. I have had good luck matching WRX blue with Dupont, Standox, and PPG. Do a base/clear and not a single stage. A complete color change is a big undertaking even for the pros. It involves cutting in all the jambs/trunk/engine bay/etc. Stick with doing the exterior the same color and focus your time on prep work and learning the basics. Although, if you have your heart set on a color change by all means don't let me discourage you, and just give it your best attempt. Don't cut corners and be patient. A lot of first time painters become impatient with the time involved in painting their car and begin to rush...do not do that. Remember it is only paint, and can always be redone.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:23 PM   #36
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Ok, thanks. I am most likely sticking to the blue, but if I did do a color change, how do you go about painted the engine bay and door jambs? The same paint method, or is it different? Disassemble or tape?
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:34 PM   #37
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If a color change it what you want....then the door jambs, underhood and trunk are not that bad, its the engine bay (for me at least) thats the killer. Depending on what color your car origninally is, you might get away with not spraying it. All up to you. But it is a BIG task to do a complete respray.

Same as the rest, scuff them up and clean them, as that is where a lot of dirt and grime will hold up in. Then paint make sure the jambs .etc are clean.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:38 PM   #38
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I think that you guys should do a write up on how to make the rust repair surface blend in with the existing paint/clear. That would be really helpful in the rust repair process. Also I think a DIY paint booth would be pretty awesome too!
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Old 09-26-2011, 10:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nicknasty8 View Post
I think that you guys should do a write up on how to make the rust repair surface blend in with the existing paint/clear.
I'm not sure I understand. Do you mean the painting process after a rust area is repaired? Have you seen the DIY I posted up a few days ago?

Let me know what you need.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:58 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nicknasty8 View Post
I think that you guys should do a write up on how to make the rust repair surface blend in with the existing paint/clear. That would be really helpful in the rust repair process. Also I think a DIY paint booth would be pretty awesome too!
I second both of these suggestions.
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:12 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
I'm not sure I understand. Do you mean the painting process after a rust area is repaired? Have you seen the DIY I posted up a few days ago?

Let me know what you need.
Yeah I saw what you posted. I just don't get how you tape off half of the white that you didn't want painted, then painted/cleared to that point. Then what? Do you wet sand the edge where the tape was? Where the old paint meets the new?
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Old 09-28-2011, 08:56 PM   #42
MattTHEpainter
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I'll take a picture and outline the necessary steps to help illustrate the process.
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:14 PM   #43
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Awesome! Thanks! What about a DIY paint booth?
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:41 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaowner27 View Post
I need detailed instructions with a supply list on how to sand, smooth, and get perfect a trunk that has had its holes welded shut. Go
You'll need to post pictures for the holes to get good information back.
Normally you'll need to sand about 1-3inches around the area in question, use something like 150grit to rough the steel up real nice.

Wipe all dust away with an alcohol pad or other solvent that WONT remove paint\clearcoat.

Body filler, I prefer the 2 chemical compound type so that you can control curing times. Thin layers with curing between applications is key to get it to not crack and flake off.

Sand rough edges down with 150grit, then move to 400 grit until smooth!
Primer the area with 2 coats allowing the primer to 'degloss' between coats. Sand again with 400grit until its flush with the surrounding paint.

Apply your first coat of color, wait until de-glossed, another coat of color.
Wet sand with 1500 grit until smooth with surrounding paint, apply clear coat (tricky part right here) cause if it runs you're in trouble.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:41 PM   #45
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Anyone need help?
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:26 PM   #46
13koenig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter
Anyone need help?
Funny you should mention that..
About 2 weeks ago or so my car got keyed and I was wondering if I decided to do a vinyl wrape would you see the imperfections through the wrap? I'm in college and I don't quite want to spend $1000 bucks just to have it keyed again. Sorry if this has been asked already, I was skimming and saw you asked if anyone needs help.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:40 PM   #47
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Depending on how deep the scratches are would determine if they would be visible under vinyl. Are the scratches to metal, or just through the clear?
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:16 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter
Depending on how deep the scratches are would determine if they would be visible under vinyl. Are the scratches to metal, or just through the clear?
It's somewhat tricky on that part, some parts are light while others are fairly deep. I'll try and upload a picture here shortly since I just got out of class. I would say at some points its definitely more than through the clear.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:29 PM   #49
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These are pictures of said scratch. Sorry the only camera I have at school is my phone. It gets deeper than the rest around the end of the driver door and beginning of the passenger door.

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Old 10-20-2011, 07:50 PM   #50
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hello to all. My name is Victor, I live in CT. I bought a 2009 Impreza wagon. It is lightning red and I bought it with 10K from the dealer. I bought the vehicle in very late december of 2009. The car has 56K miles on it now. I've been noticing paint issues for quite some time but took no action but a few thousand miles ago I started noticing quite large paint chips and what looked to me as if the paint was corroding off the spots on the vehicle. I went to the subaru dealer I bought it from.
The man said there looked to be a problem and to call corporate subaru. I have the extended warrantee. I spoke with someone from corporate for many weeks emphasizing there was in very bad issue with the paint. I took it to 2 body shops and both gave me written professional opinions and estimates. I came online and looked to see if this was a common problem and it is. After months of going back and fourth with Subaru they said they were not going to help me because 1) the car is out of warrantee and 2) the paint was caused from sap and rock chips. I've done my research and from all the data I have collected it is not our faults. This is a defect in paint which Subaru does not want to deal with.

Long story short, everyone please let me know if you would be interested in a class action law suit against subaru to have our impreza's repainted. I'm sure I'm not the only person this has happen to and am asking for full support from the Impreza community. My email address is subaru.impreza.issue@gmail.com
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