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Old 03-21-2012, 01:50 PM   #76
DirtyD
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Adding another question to the thread:

A few months ago, I traded my carbon fiber hood for a white RS hood. The bad thing is that my car is WRB. So I have been driving aroudn iwth a smurf car for the past few months. Lots of looks.

So I am finally getting around to painting the hood. I picked up the paint, clear and activator from Napa. I will be using my brothers spray gun, dont know which kind.

Any tips on prepping the hood? Spraying the paint?
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Last edited by DirtyD; 03-21-2012 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:46 PM   #77
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by john3dpeople View Post
Great Thread! I'm eventually going to have to do some bodywork on my 02 wrx its starting to look like its 10 years old!

Matt- I've seen several members paint or had their cars painted flat black. I not sure if I love the look but, it is definitely unique. Do they have any type of clear coat on? Or do they have some kind of matte finish? It seems like this would be more forgiving than trying to get the high gloss look but I'm a bit worried that if there is no clear coat over it that the paint would deteriorate quickly.

I'd rather learn how to do all this and do it well than pay someone else who doesn't really care about my car

+1 for the sticky!
You pretty much have it correct. I am assuming most of the professional matte black cars on here have a clear that is flattened. Many paint suppliers such as PPG "Hot Rod Black" and Dupont Hot Hues use a base, then matte clear system. If you did not put a topcoat on the base, there would be no UV protection and fade rather quickly.

I know some paint systems use a single stage flat black, but I am not familiar with them and cannot give my opinion. Spraying a matte clear can be tricky to apply; too much clear and it's a gloss, too little and it looks dry. Just mess around on a scrap piece of metal to find out what works for you.
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:52 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by Clutch987 View Post
Hopefully quick question for you guys. Long story short, Last October I had my '11 STI in the shop to get a cracked front bumper replaced and while it was there someone backed into it and hit the trunk lid around the bottom right corner of the license plate. They put on a new trunk lid, painted, and then I checked their work. Then they put the license plate back on. Here is my problem, the corner of the plate was bent in slightly, and rubbed a small hole through the paint and has started to rust a bit.

Whats the best way to patch this up? I assume some sort of paint touch up pen for the Paint (WRB). Anything need to be done to the spot for prep?
The spot is hidden behind the plate, and you're looking to fix this as a preventative measure correct? I would first clean the rust out of the spot with some 800 wet sandpaper. Then clean the area with a pre-paint prep solvent. Use a small brush to apply some self-etching primer. Then apply the WRB touchup. Keep the area small and contained, so it is not in a visible area when you are done.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:02 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by 4ndy View Post
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2326155
how much should it cost around to have a shop make my bumper fit flush again, is there anything i can do on my own to make it sit flush? It droops down every few days and i can lift it back up gently and it sits a little tighter than shown in the pics but still definetly isnt flush.

how much would it cost around to get the fender resprayed + rear pannel?
appreciate any input and I understand if you cant really guesstimate how much itl be.

Yeah I saw this thread, and chose not to comment because of the amount of variables involved. You would have to R/I (remove and inspect) the bumper cover to see what bracket is malfunctioning. Look to see if this is an aftermarket or OEM bumper/fender. With aftermarket bumpers the fitment can sometimes be way off. Its obvious that those panels have been repainted (poorly) and I'm sure there was a reason why. The shop could have reused a bent bumper bracket, with a paint job like that there is no telling what corners they cut. It would be really hard to diagnose the alignment issue without seeing it myself. Bring it to a reputable shop.

Refinishing prices vary region to region, and it would be hard to give a proper estimate for NJ. If it was me, I would repaint the entire left side from quarter to bumper. I'd say a rough estimate without seeing it ~$1200.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:11 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by DirtyD View Post
Adding another question to the thread:

A few months ago, I traded my carbon fiber hood for a white RS hood. The bad thing is that my car is WRB. So I have been driving aroudn iwth a smurf car for the past few months. Lots of looks.

So I am finally getting around to painting the hood. I picked up the paint, clear and activator from Napa. I will be using my brothers spray gun, dont know which kind.

Any tips on prepping the hood? Spraying the paint?
If the hood is in good condition with no major dents or dings; you can just get a grey scotch-bright pad and some "scuff stuff" and sand. Just scuff the existing clear until there is a dull finish. You can sand out any nicks with 320 then 400 wet sandpaper. Apply a sealer then base/clear.

As for the spraying part, that is a very complicated question. Everyone has different methods and techniques. I would suggest just practicing on scrap metal and find out what works for you. If you have anything specific you need help with, let me know.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:12 PM   #81
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You guys are making me work today with the questions!
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:58 PM   #82
john3dpeople
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It keeps you in shape... er.... something to that effect... lol
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:31 PM   #83
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how do i fix this?

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Old 03-22-2012, 01:03 AM   #84
Tanktheory
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I know you're looking for an answer from Matt, but I'm just gonna go out on a limb and say that's gonna need some good ole' sand-n-spray.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:05 PM   #85
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how do i fix this?

Its hard to tell from the picture, but is that a skirt? Those are called "spider-cracks", and are a common occurrence for plastics that have had some sort of impact. The cracks are actually in the plastic, and need to be sanded down, then a flexible polyester filler (evercoat is decent) would need to be applied/sanded. The problem is these type of cracks have a high tendency to reappear from the slightest bump. It might be easier to find a skirt and refinish it to match your car. If you need further direction just let me know.
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Old 03-23-2012, 01:19 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
You guys are making me work today with the questions!
You're a good man, thanks for the tips.
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:44 PM   #87
Gfleshman804
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Default is it possible to find a purple drivers side mirror

never seen another purple 02 wrx......cant find a drivers side mirror
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Old 03-24-2012, 05:12 PM   #88
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have a plethora of rock chips (good ole New England winters) on the hood, above the windsheild, doors (all four). Can I just get a bottle of paint filler from the dealer to fill them, or should I have them done professionally? They all range from down to bare metal to just clear coat abrasions. I'm no good with body work, but felt the need to ask. An $11 fix is better than $100's.

The front bumper is toasted...near miss in a accident, and I already bought a brand new OEM + all clips/screws/body rivets/mounts/brackets. That's a backburner paint job as of now. shop quoted me ~$450 since it was unprimed black ABS plastic or fiberglass...whatever its made of. lol
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:05 PM   #89
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My question is how to achieve high gloss clear coat that matches oem? Paint-on or buff? I'm doing this job with rattle cans.

Here's the short of it. Cracked my front fascia after years of rallycross decided to repair and paint. Started with quick set 3M bondo great product. Rough sanded. Bought color match paint from auto touch-up dot com, along with adhesion promoter and primer.

100% color match, but auto touch up clear coat is gloss, not high gloss. NAPA auto paint recommended a lacquer clear that is gloss on my test area, but not high gloss. Duplicolor clear coat seems to show the highest gloss.

And yes I didn't sand properly the 1st time, am re-doing and used 600 wet sand and then 1000 wet sand so the surface is ready this go around.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:08 PM   #90
DirtyD
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Hey Matt, this is a follow up to my post above.

We sprayed the hood this weekend in a homemade booth in my garage. It actually turned out better than I had expected. However, there is some dirt and dust in the clear coat. What would be the best way to tackle this? Just wetsand with some 1K? Or would buffing the hood take it out?

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:16 PM   #91
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDScooby View Post
have a plethora of rock chips (good ole New England winters) on the hood, above the windsheild, doors (all four). Can I just get a bottle of paint filler from the dealer to fill them, or should I have them done professionally? They all range from down to bare metal to just clear coat abrasions. I'm no good with body work, but felt the need to ask. An $11 fix is better than $100's.

The front bumper is toasted...near miss in a accident, and I already bought a brand new OEM + all clips/screws/body rivets/mounts/brackets. That's a backburner paint job as of now. shop quoted me ~$450 since it was unprimed black ABS plastic or fiberglass...whatever its made of. lol
Yeah I agree an $11 fix is much better than hundreds. You can take your time and fill the chips with touch-up from the dealer (apply/let dry/repeat). Have you checked out "Dr color-chip"? I think there is a results thread on here, I am unfamiliar with the product so really have no opinion on it.

Anywhere from $300-$450 is going rate for an unprimed bumper.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:25 PM   #92
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhoerath View Post
My question is how to achieve high gloss clear coat that matches oem? Paint-on or buff? I'm doing this job with rattle cans.

Here's the short of it. Cracked my front fascia after years of rallycross decided to repair and paint. Started with quick set 3M bondo great product. Rough sanded. Bought color match paint from auto touch-up dot com, along with adhesion promoter and primer.

100% color match, but auto touch up clear coat is gloss, not high gloss. NAPA auto paint recommended a lacquer clear that is gloss on my test area, but not high gloss. Duplicolor clear coat seems to show the highest gloss.

And yes I didn't sand properly the 1st time, am re-doing and used 600 wet sand and then 1000 wet sand so the surface is ready this go around.
I've never really used rattle can clear, but I do know it is extremely hard to get a consistent high gloss finish. It sounds like you are going about the prep process in the correct way (adhesion promoters, sanding, primer, etc) so why not invest in a cheaper spray gun and use a decent urethane clear? Urethane clear is normally a two part product, flexible (bumper), and you can achieve a much higher gloss than lacquer.

This was a little project I did over the weekend to see if a cheap $40 spray gun is comparable to my Sata. I also used a cheaper urethane clear.

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Old 03-26-2012, 01:31 PM   #93
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by DirtyD View Post
Hey Matt, this is a follow up to my post above.

We sprayed the hood this weekend in a homemade booth in my garage. It actually turned out better than I had expected. However, there is some dirt and dust in the clear coat. What would be the best way to tackle this? Just wetsand with some 1K? Or would buffing the hood take it out?

Thanks
Awesome, I think it is great when people get things done on their own. I would use 1500 grit wet to start if there is a lot of dust and peel in the paint. Then go to a 2000 grit wet to finish. Use a 1500 compound on a rotary buffer at about 1400-1500rpm (depending on product), and it should look like glass. 1000 grit is very abrasive and usually good to use if you sag the clear.

If you have any other questions let me know. Post up pictures!
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:04 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
I've never really used rattle can clear, but I do know it is extremely hard to get a consistent high gloss finish. It sounds like you are going about the prep process in the correct way (adhesion promoters, sanding, primer, etc) so why not invest in a cheaper spray gun and use a decent urethane clear? Urethane clear is normally a two part product, flexible (bumper), and you can achieve a much higher gloss than lacquer.
Took monday off - temps were 70's and low humidity - and painted. Very pleased with the results. Now the 9 yr 175k mile hood looks ragged next to my paint job!

Found by laying the clear on wetter resulted in a clean and consistent surface, especially the surfaces that are critical. Next step is paint a test object and practice buffing to achieve a matching gloss finish. I'll start with 1500 liquid and go from there.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:50 AM   #95
Mul
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hey there,

maybe someone here can give me some advice:
I'm going to be painting a car with Eastwood company's urethane paint system. I've done some paint stuff in the past but nothing on this scale(whole car). What I need to know is what should I clean the gun with in between color and clear coats? I didn't know if certain chemicals would react with the paint or clear in the gun that would screw it up. Also when mixing the paint for the gun should I mix the whole batch? or mix it in "chunks" every time I fill the paint gun?

Thanks in advance!
Mul
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:38 AM   #96
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Most painters I have talked to have separate guns for paint and clear. Not sure why though.
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Old 04-03-2012, 12:26 PM   #97
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hi there,
i just repainted my replacement fender yesterday with a sata gun in a DIY paint booth, it turned out great except for one spot where i "sagged" the clear. theres also some dust particles in the clear. should i sand all the clear coat down and spray another coat or try and feather out the sag and dust with like 2000 grit? i can post pics if that would help.

also, i use the same gun (sata jet 100 BF RP, primer/filler gun) for everything, would you recommend investing in a second gun for base/clear applications?

edit: also, any idea what psi i should be painting at for doing full panels?
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:53 PM   #98
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by Mul View Post
hey there,

maybe someone here can give me some advice:
I'm going to be painting a car with Eastwood company's urethane paint system. I've done some paint stuff in the past but nothing on this scale(whole car). What I need to know is what should I clean the gun with in between color and clear coats? I didn't know if certain chemicals would react with the paint or clear in the gun that would screw it up. Also when mixing the paint for the gun should I mix the whole batch? or mix it in "chunks" every time I fill the paint gun?

Thanks in advance!
Mul
Don't have much experience with Eastwood brand, use any lacquer thinner to clean between primer/sealer/clear. After disassembling the gun and cleaning each piece put a little thinner through the gun, it will evaporate quickly (obviously don't spray next to the piece you're refinishing).

If I am doing an overall shoot I always have enough reduced paint in the booth to do a complete coat. Same goes with clear.
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:59 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by wrxracer519 View Post
Most painters I have talked to have separate guns for paint and clear. Not sure why though.
A lot is based on personal preference/refinishing material specifications/brand of gun. I use a 1.4 tip for base and clear, and a 2.0 for primers in a "primer only" gun. Some people prefer a 1.8 for clear.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:12 AM   #100
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by nasiocanuck View Post
hi there,
i just repainted my replacement fender yesterday with a sata gun in a DIY paint booth, it turned out great except for one spot where i "sagged" the clear. theres also some dust particles in the clear. should i sand all the clear coat down and spray another coat or try and feather out the sag and dust with like 2000 grit? i can post pics if that would help.

also, i use the same gun (sata jet 100 BF RP, primer/filler gun) for everything, would you recommend investing in a second gun for base/clear applications?

edit: also, any idea what psi i should be painting at for doing full panels?
I would use 1500 wet on a soft block, and depending how familiar you are with wet sanding even a 1000 for the sag only. Use the block to sand the sag because the clear surround the sag will be much thinner. Then work up to 2000. You can also use a razor blade technique to "scrape" the sag. If you're feeling adventurous I can explain it to you with a picture.

Odds are you ran the clear due to the gun. I have used the Sata RP and they tend to spray heavy, the 100 BF if I remember correctly is a 1.6mm? I spoke with a Sata rep last year and they recommend a 1.3/1.4 for base and clear if using the RP series. But, like i said previously it is all personal preference.

What temp activator did you use? What was the temperature you painted in?

PSI depends on the brand of paint, check the tech sheets on the paint they will have an HVLP psi recommendation.
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