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Old 04-04-2012, 12:17 AM   #101
Baer
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Default i couldnt have said it any better if i tried

this is a guy who knows his autobody i give many props
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
Supply List:
*1 quart body filler with activator (preferably rage gold or comparable product)
*Tube of glazing putty/"icing"
*Assortment of sand paper starting at 40 grit ranging to 400 (40,80,180,220,320,400)
*High build primer
*Sanding block
*DA sander (not necessary but will make job much easier)
*Filler Spreaders

Instructions:
I do not know if you have any prior knowledge when it comes to bodywork so I can only give you guidance and getting it "perfect" depends on the time you take and practice.

1. Were the welds ground flush? If so there is most likely some slight distortion in the metal. Try to get the metal as flush as possible prior to filling. Use a body hammer, or stud welder to do so. If the metal has any low spots that cannot be worked out, sand about a 5" diameter circle from the center of the welds to give you ample room to work. Sand with 80 grit on a DA. Any spot that you will be filling you want bare metal for the filler to adhere to. Do not heat the panel too much with the DA.

2. Mix the filler on a piece of sheet metal or cardboard. A good rule of thumb is put the amount of filler down, and then draw a line across the puddle with activator. Depending on conditions this could vary. Use a spreader to put down only as much filler that is needed over the holes. Let harden, and then begin to sand with 80 grit sandpaper on a block. Sand in a diagonal pattern // then \\ crisscrossing and creating an imaginary "X" over the work area. Do this until you level the filler with the surrounding metal. This will take some practice to get correct. A helpful trick is to apply a guide coat of black spray paint to see if there is any low spots or high spots in the filler.

3. Continue this process of applying filler and then smoothing, and after every coat go to a higher grade sandpaper. For such a small job like this you may only need one coat of filler before glaze. You could start with 180 grit depending on the condition of the metal after the welding.

4. Stop when you feel, with your hand, that the surface is level with the surrounding area and there is no bumps, or dimples. You will finish the filler with 400 grit before applying the glaze. Glaze is basically used to fill any fine scratches still left in the surrounding metal from sanding, or pin-holes that are in the filler. You will apply this extremely thin over the filler with a decent amount of pressure to fill any imperfections.

5. Let the glaze dry and sand with the same process as before, but not so much that you start to take off material from the filler below. You will see the glaze fill the scratches and pin-holes.

6. After this work you will get a good feel for sanding and should feather out the existing paint surrounding your area of repair. Use 400 to scuff existing paint.

7. Mask up for high build primer by back taping your work area and covering anything you do not wish to get primer on. Never apply primer to the edge of the tape or you will get a "hard edge".

8. Let primer dry and wet sand with 400/600 grit paper.

9. Send it to paint.

If you have any specific questions about this process (which I'm sure you will) just ask.

Where in NE are you located?

-Matt
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:59 AM   #102
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Ive seen some guys do carbon fiber on the roof of their cars. By getting raw CF and laying it down on the roof. But none of them ever stated if they used ONLY clear coat and laid the CF on top while still wet then did more clear over it, or if they at some point in the begining used resin then clear coat??

If anyone could answer this that would be great!
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:58 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by UK-Wagon View Post
Ive seen some guys do carbon fiber on the roof of their cars. By getting raw CF and laying it down on the roof. But none of them ever stated if they used ONLY clear coat and laid the CF on top while still wet then did more clear over it, or if they at some point in the begining used resin then clear coat??

If anyone could answer this that would be great!
are you sure they are not wrapping it in carbon fiber looking vinyl? Because otherwise that defeats the purpose of carbon fiber.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:45 PM   #104
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My car's hood has a bunch of spots where just the clear has been basically sanded off. Can I just buy some Dupli-Color Clear coat and a cheap sprayer and wet sand the whole hood and just re-finish the clear?
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:21 AM   #105
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What questions should I be asking a bodyshop before I get my car painted? I don't plan on doing it myself, I don't have the space nor the time.

Is there specific brands of paint that match oem or better alternatives?

Should I ask what their procedure is? What is the betst procedure? Remove bumpers, mirrors and skirts then repaint? I'm assuming it costs more to get the jambs done?

How do I know they 'KNOW" what they're doing?

Is it possible to have a repaint looking like an original OEM job?

What's the price range for a very good job?

I know it's a lot of questions but I have no idea where to begin..lol

I want my car to look like it did in 2006.






As the second owner and paint finally fading I can see where the car had a repaint from the first owner on a 2 passenger doors. I had bodywork was done on my roof from a big tree limb and left rear quarter from a NYC DOT car hitting my ride. Not to mention all the rockchips from NYC to VT snowboard trips. Also found rust near the a pillars when a windshield was replaced. I just want to get her back to where I had her so I can enjoy detailing her again...lol
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:04 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07WRBSTI View Post
My car's hood has a bunch of spots where just the clear has been basically sanded off. Can I just buy some Dupli-Color Clear coat and a cheap sprayer and wet sand the whole hood and just re-finish the clear?
You should feather out any clear coat failure spots with 600/800 wet. Then scuff the entire hood with a grey scotch bright pad. Don't sand any exposed base coat too aggressively and you will be fine to just re-clear.
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:27 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum626 View Post
What questions should I be asking a bodyshop before I get my car painted? I don't plan on doing it myself, I don't have the space nor the time.

Is there specific brands of paint that match oem or better alternatives?

Should I ask what their procedure is? What is the betst procedure? Remove bumpers, mirrors and skirts then repaint? I'm assuming it costs more to get the jambs done?

How do I know they 'KNOW" what they're doing?

Is it possible to have a repaint looking like an original OEM job?

What's the price range for a very good job?

I know it's a lot of questions but I have no idea where to begin..lol

I want my car to look like it did in 2006.






As the second owner and paint finally fading I can see where the car had a repaint from the first owner on a 2 passenger doors. I had bodywork was done on my roof from a big tree limb and left rear quarter from a NYC DOT car hitting my ride. Not to mention all the rockchips from NYC to VT snowboard trips. Also found rust near the a pillars when a windshield was replaced. I just want to get her back to where I had her so I can enjoy detailing her again...lol
Before getting a complete car refinish, do some research on the reputation of the local shops. Reputation is usually indicative of the shop's standards. Only choose a shop that guarantees their work, and make sure it is in writing. A lot of body shops will shy away from an overall re-spray because of the work to profit ratio. Getting it done in the summer may help because that is when work tends to slow down, and a shop would be more inclined to take on the job.

The brand of paint will usually be determined by the shop you bring it to, and special requests for specific brands will probably get you an awkward look. I've never had a problem matching colors with Standox, Dupont, Diamont, and other major brands.

I would be careful with going overboard with the questions to a shop foreman. You will most likely be pinned as a "potentially problematic customer", and there is a good chance they will pass on your project. Any good shop will remove everything from the car prior to painting; bumpers, door handles, trim, weatherstripping, etc. Definitely ask questions as to their procedure, but don't get crazy. It's your car and only trust it somewhere that you feel comfortable leaving it.

Look at some of their prior work, and that should give an example of how your car may turn out.

The paint should look better than OEM quality (if the shop is good), Subaru has a pretty bad factory orange peel.

Price could range from $2,000-$9,000 and beyond.

Rust, and other repairs will exponentially increase the price.

If you decide to get it done, bring someone who knows paint to do a final inspection of the shop's work prior to picking up the car. Go over it extremely well.

Anything else, just let me know.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
You should feather out any clear coat failure spots with 600/800 wet. Then scuff the entire hood with a grey scotch bright pad. Don't sand any exposed base coat too aggressively and you will be fine to just re-clear.
Any brand clear that you would recommend?

I'm looking at this right now.
LinkLink
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:11 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07WRBSTI View Post
Any brand clear that you would recommend?

I'm looking at this right now. Link

I have never used that clear, it's definitely a cheap laquer clear. I would recommend using urethane. If you are looking to do a quick job, and don't have high expectations you could save money and use that Dupli stuff.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:48 PM   #110
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That's some good info. Those types of paints can be tricky if you don't know what you're doing...
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:53 PM   #111
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My bugeye was originally wrb and got it painted aspen white 2 years ago.

Now, I am changinging the front end to 04-05 and rear quarters and rear doors are getting widebody panels installed by me.

The front end I bought is in wrb so 75% of the car will have to be repainted.

In this case it would be a good idea to get the whole car painted again.

I have the tools to get the prep work myself but I am not sure if I should just sand the surface lightly or sanded down to the metal. Because this will be the third coat of paint.


Also I have a 15 gallon compressor rated 6 cfm 90 psi. Is it possible to do the job piece by piece in my own garage ?

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:09 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serkan View Post
My bugeye was originally wrb and got it painted aspen white 2 years ago.

Now, I am changinging the front end to 04-05 and rear quarters and rear doors are getting widebody panels installed by me.

The front end I bought is in wrb so 75% of the car will have to be repainted.

In this case it would be a good idea to get the whole car painted again.

I have the tools to get the prep work myself but I am not sure if I should just sand the surface lightly or sanded down to the metal. Because this will be the third coat of paint.


Also I have a 15 gallon compressor rated 6 cfm 90 psi. Is it possible to do the job piece by piece in my own garage ?

Thanks.

If there is proper adhesion between coats, and no imperfections, you could probably get away with sanding the top coat. I personally would have the car blasted to bare metal, then begin the refinishing process. This could be considered overkill for a WRX, but a solid foundation is essential to a well done paint job.

You will most likely run into problems using a compressor with only 6 cfm @90. Granted you will probably be using an HVLP gun, but being able to do a complete pass with paint is important. Invest or rent a good compressor, nothing is worse than inconsistant flow.
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:32 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
If there is proper adhesion between coats, and no imperfections, you could probably get away with sanding the top coat. I personally would have the car blasted to bare metal, then begin the refinishing process. This could be considered overkill for a WRX, but a solid foundation is essential to a well done paint job.

You will most likely run into problems using a compressor with only 6 cfm @90. Granted you will probably be using an HVLP gun, but being able to do a complete pass with paint is important. Invest or rent a good compressor, nothing is worse than inconsistant flow.

The second paint job wasn't great. So i think i will sand it down to bare metal. What do you mean when you said get it blasted ?

I have a Porter cable DA sander, would that work for this job ?

I also thought about renting a good compressor. I just need to get a decent hvlp gun. What is a good gun for a starter under $200 ? Can I use the same gun for prime, base and clear ? And what tip size should i use ?

Thank you, i am sure these questions will help other ppl as well.


Edit : Would this be a good gun for starters ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEVILBISS-St...item2c612b32ae

Last edited by Serkan; 04-20-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:25 AM   #114
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I've been through this whole thread, and impressed with the knowledge so hopefully I can throw this out there and get some
Help. Hopefully this is the correct thread. I have a set of wheels that I wanted to get painted, they're gold spoke whit a polished lip. I sent them to the painter who painted my car, and he sent them back saying its too much labor to be worth it and he wasn't sure how long The finish would hold up. He's a very good painter, and my car is flawless with 3 coats base, 5 coats clear. So I'm assuming he has good reason not to want to do these wheels. Yet people paint wheels quite often I believed, so I still want it done. And I think I'll tackle this on my own.
What is the prep process for this? Step by step if someone wouldn't mind. Tires are off, do I have to strip it down with aircraft remover? Scuff it up? Etc. Also, is it wise to paint the sealing part of the wheel where the tire seals against the wheel? Or tape it off?
Thanks in advance!!

Oh I should add that I wanted the gold spokes, to be a satin back, and the polished lip, to match the Car with WRB
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:03 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serkan View Post
The second paint job wasn't great. So i think i will sand it down to bare metal. What do you mean when you said get it blasted ?

I have a Porter cable DA sander, would that work for this job ?

I also thought about renting a good compressor. I just need to get a decent hvlp gun. What is a good gun for a starter under $200 ? Can I use the same gun for prime, base and clear ? And what tip size should i use ?

Thank you, i am sure these questions will help other ppl as well.


Edit : Would this be a good gun for starters ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEVILBISS-St...item2c612b32ae
Sorry for not being clear, I would recommend having the car soda blasted. This is a non-destructive method of paint removal. Usual cost to have a car soda blasted is about $600 around me. This will save you countless hours of sanding to bare metal, then having to skim coat any scratches you put in the metal from a DA.

A DA would definitely work, but like I mentioned it may not be the most efficient. A DA will also heat the metal if used in one spot too long, and possibly distort the metal.

Devilbiss is an decent starter gun. There is a big jump in price from a starter gun ~$150 to an Iwata or Sata ~$650. If you look up a few posts, I took a picture of a bumper I sprayed real quick and used a Devilbiss. I would use a separate gun for primer and paint. Get a 1.5/1.7 for high build, and I use a 1.3 for base/clear.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:54 AM   #116
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Hmm, thanks for the response Matt. I don't trust anyone really...lol I'm pretty anal with all the paintjobs I've seen done on other cars and not really all impressed. Any recommendations up by you? I live in NYC and need to find a good place.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:42 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03Rextacy View Post
What is the prep process for this? Step by step if someone wouldn't mind. Tires are off, do I have to strip it down with aircraft remover? Scuff it up? Etc. Also, is it wise to paint the sealing part of the wheel where the tire seals against the wheel? Or tape it off?
Thanks in advance!!

Oh I should add that I wanted the gold spokes, to be a satin back, and the polished lip, to match the Car with WRB
I have painted countless rims, and rarely have any problems with durability. Granted PC is stronger, but sometimes you need to sacrifice in order to get a perfect matching rim.

If the wheels are in good condition with no imperfections you can get away with just scuffing the existing paint on the rims.

*Scuff the rims with a grey scotch pad, and a scuffing chemical like "Scuff Stuff". You will really need to scuff down the polished part to allow the primer to get some bite into the metal.

*Clean the rims, and get a really good self-etching primer. This will be the foundation, don't waste your money on a rattle can brand if you want any type of longevity out of the paint job. I have used Dupont ChromaPremier 22860S on bare aluminum, and has held up perfectly. http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...034_22860S.pdf

*After you apply that, you could use a high-build primer to fill any imperfections. Thats optional, but I recommend it to get a glass finish after sanding flat.

*Next apply base/clear.

I have never taped the "sealing" part of the rim, and always paint halfway. Any further questions, let me know.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:01 PM   #118
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Hmm, thanks for the response Matt. I don't trust anyone really...lol I'm pretty anal with all the paintjobs I've seen done on other cars and not really all impressed. Any recommendations up by you? I live in NYC and need to find a good place.
Yeah, I completely understand what you are saying. I have had to fix numerous supposed "reputable shop re-sprays". I have worked in a few body shops, and many employees see cars as a job only. That is why I enjoy painting on the side now, and not my proprietary income. You need to find a small shop that will take the necessary time to complete a good overall re-spray. Many shops become jaded, and do not take into consideration what the car means to the owner. I treat every job like it was one of my personal cars, you seldom find this true at most shops.

Unfortunately I have not had to deal with any shops that I would recommend to do a complete car. Granted that is because I do my own work, and usually only hear the horror stories from customers. Check your local forum to see recommendations. If you do find a garage and would like a professional opinion send me a PM and I might be able to take a trip.
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:05 PM   #119
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^I guess I got a long trip ahead of me. Lots of places aren't consistent, some ppl get good work then the next customer gets a so so job done. Time to do some hunting around again....
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:16 PM   #120
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Anyone need help?
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:30 PM   #121
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Do you have a good write up for just a small spot repair for some surface rust?
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Old 05-19-2012, 01:34 PM   #122
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Update so far, ready for clear
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:56 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by mr.nicknasty8 View Post
Do you have a good write up for just a small spot repair for some surface rust?
Here is a write up for some rust repair I did on my RS. It should give you some good guidance. If you have any questions, let me know.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2245842
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:01 AM   #124
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Update so far, ready for clear
Looking good! Make sure you share the finished product.

I bet you enjoyed taping that.
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:11 PM   #125
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Haha, not at all, there was no definitive line to previously go off of, it was tedious, and I re taped each wheel at least 20 times. Lol
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