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Old 06-04-2012, 08:36 PM   #151
03Rextacy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter

Looks clean man, I like everything about it.
Thank you! And thanks for your advice! Greatly helped in the process of Completion. I think I should've went further around on the back of the lip, but unless you're looking down on top of the wheel, you cant see it. Live and learn I suppose.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:46 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDspider View Post
matt the painter: couple of questions.

1. how much paint and clear is typically required to respray a wrx/sti size car (im keeping the color pretty close to the current color).

2. this one really goes along with the first question but what all would one need to buy for a respray, including material to fill small scratches/chips. just the "chemicals".

3. i plan on keeping the color very close to the current color UGM but i intend on doing a matte/satin finish. is there a particular brand that you recommend for the paint and matte clear?

4. i have been talking to two different painters one is charging about $3200 for a respray with minimal body work (just some filling here and there of chips). the other is charging $1500 as a "side" job and i provide the "chemicals". they both have been doing this type of work for some time now but the cheaper one has never done a matte finish before. i assume that the application of the two are identical except the matte doesnt require any type of buffing, is this correct? also do those two prices sound ok considering one is done through a company with a warranty ($3200) and the other is done on his free time at his home shop ($1500)?

thanks,
shaun h
1. A half gallon of base coat non reduced, and a gallon of clear will suffice. You could get away with less clear but this is the most economical.

2. For chips get a glazing putty/activator. High build primer for any repair areas. Then base/clear.

3. You can use any decent base; PPG, Dupont, Standox. Getting a matte clear really depends on "the level of satin" desired. You can add a flattening agent to any clear and get the matte effect, goes by percentages. You could also get a "clear kit" from PPG or Dupont Hot Hues. These kits come in quart setups and I have used both with great results. Getting a nice matte finish really depends on the painter. Too thin of coats and it looks grainy; too thick of coats and you will have a gloss finish. Go to someone with matte finish experience.

4. Like I said above; go with someone who has experience shooting a satin finish. Always go to a place that will warranty their work. I have never heard of anyone having a good experience with a "side job" painter, something always goes wrong and you are SOL. $3200 seems average, does that include jambs?

Anything else let me know.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:50 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by 03Rextacy View Post
Thank you! And thanks for your advice! Greatly helped in the process of Completion. I think I should've went further around on the back of the lip, but unless you're looking down on top of the wheel, you cant see it. Live and learn I suppose.
I'm glad I could help. You could always strip them, tape, and spray the rims again hahah. I wouldn't bother though, they look fine.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:19 PM   #154
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I'd like to thank Matt for all his advice. I decided in order to make sure I covered the car evenly, I used this to do the first coat:


Followed by the Wagner Optimus, I can't believe how good it sprayed.

Thanks Matt!

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Old 06-04-2012, 09:32 PM   #155
AWDspider
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It doesn't include jambs which I wasnt concerned with as the color will remain close to what it is now.

The side job painter I trust. He's an old Guy that is retired and does this work for extra money. He was a auto painter for 30 years and I've seen a few of his previous jobsand they looked good. His warranty is more of a "what ever it takes to make it right" approach. He just doesn't sign a piece of paper stating a warranty is expressed and implied.

Its the same process I use when I do a side job outside of my company. I don't charge as much and I do the work on my time frame.

I was/am a bit apprehensive about the matte finish. Of course there might have been some confusion that got lost in translation as English isn't his preferred language. I'm going to meet him with is son on Friday so we wont have a language barrier and get into more detail about the job.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:25 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanktheory View Post
I'd like to thank Matt for all his advice. I decided in order to make sure I covered the car evenly, I used this to do the first coat:


Followed by the Wagner Optimus, I can't believe how good it sprayed.

Thanks Matt!

WOW!!!! That looks amazing? Which one did you end up getting the cordless one or the one with the cord?? Also is that with clear or no? Did you need to wet sand the paint at all?
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:56 AM   #157
Tanktheory
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I used the cord one because I feared running out of power mid spray and being left stranded. That has a few coats of clear and thats it!

I think the roller actually worked well and it was a lot faster to cover the whole car in a cheaper fashion.
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:16 PM   #158
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You wet sanded after the first layer of the roller right?
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:05 PM   #159
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nicknasty8
You wet sanded after the first layer of the roller right?
I can't tell if you're trolling the troll tanktheory or really just that gullible?
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:26 PM   #160
MattTHEpainter
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Time to get this thread back on topic. Boys and girls; paint your lips. Friend's girlfriend hit a curb in his car. Painted the bumper/lip last weekend. Anyone need help with anything?
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:33 PM   #161
wayward167
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Matt

How long would i have to wait for paint to dry so that a new coat doesn't dissolve the previous one?


I flat blacked the WRX \\\\\ 2011+ badge and i want to write in with a art brush red into the letters and slashes. Meaning the letters and slashes are red and the rest is black.



am i better off creating a stencil and spraying this as the brush seems to smear and mix the paint colors.
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:28 PM   #162
Smoke
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Would it be difficult to sand and spray an automotive grade clear coat on a carbon fiber hood?

My Seibon hood is yellowing and I guess the only way is wetsand or an actual clear coat?
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:00 AM   #163
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by wayward167 View Post
Matt

How long would i have to wait for paint to dry so that a new coat doesn't dissolve the previous one?


I flat blacked the WRX \\\\\ 2011+ badge and i want to write in with a art brush red into the letters and slashes. Meaning the letters and slashes are red and the rest is black.



am i better off creating a stencil and spraying this as the brush seems to smear and mix the paint colors.
A new coat will not dissolve the base unless you are using a lacquer over a urethane typically. Let the first coat flash for 15-20 minutes depending on conditions and you should be fine.

A stencil will look much cleaner, and give the paint a uniform look without brush marks.
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Old 06-18-2012, 11:11 AM   #164
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by Smoke View Post
Would it be difficult to sand and spray an automotive grade clear coat on a carbon fiber hood?

My Seibon hood is yellowing and I guess the only way is wetsand or an actual clear coat?
It's a good idea to sand and then clear the hood. A lot of people do this as a preventative measure against the hood yellowing.

You could wet sand with 1500/2000 then compound to see if that will restore the hood prior to painting.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:44 PM   #165
sushi20
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I'm repainting my bumper myself. Is there a certain type of clear coat I should use? I have to use spray cans since I dont have a gun.

Also, when applying the clear coat, should I be sanding between coats or save it for the end?

This is my first time doing something like this
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Old 06-19-2012, 02:24 AM   #166
davidsti1
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I got a wrb hood and complete front bumper
Some chips and repairs needed.. I need it white
One body shop quoted me $1500-$2000 :/
Is that right??
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:09 AM   #167
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sushi20 View Post
I'm repainting my bumper myself. Is there a certain type of clear coat I should use? I have to use spray cans since I dont have a gun.

Also, when applying the clear coat, should I be sanding between coats or save it for the end?

This is my first time doing something like this
I am not familiar with a decent brand of clear coat that is available in a spray can. Go to your local auto body supply store and see what they recommend.

You do not sand between coats of clear, wait until the clear is completely dry before wet sanding.

Good luck.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:10 AM   #168
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsti1 View Post
I got a wrb hood and complete front bumper
Some chips and repairs needed.. I need it white
One body shop quoted me $1500-$2000 :/
Is that right??
It would depend on the repairs that are needed. What is the extent of the damage? Are they installing the parts?
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:27 AM   #169
davidsti1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
It would depend on the repairs that are needed. What is the extent of the damage? Are they installing the parts?
Thank you for responding
Little damages and they just painting it
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:33 AM   #170
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by davidsti1 View Post
Thank you for responding
Little damages and they just painting it
I would shop around, that price seems a bit high.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:42 AM   #171
johnnyb
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I just had two quotes from local paint shops for the the front end of my car. Buy a new bumper and STI wing, repaint hood/scoop and front fenders. $2000-2400.

Through a local club, I found a shop that let me buy the parts myself (saving a little money) and the paint work was only $700. So, it still cost me about $1250 or so, but still a lot better than $2400.

Before:



After:

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Old 06-21-2012, 05:47 PM   #172
MattTHEpainter
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Originally Posted by johnnyb View Post
I just had two quotes from local paint shops for the the front end of my car. Buy a new bumper and STI wing, repaint hood/scoop and front fenders. $2000-2400.

Through a local club, I found a shop that let me buy the parts myself (saving a little money) and the paint work was only $700. So, it still cost me about $1250 or so, but still a lot better than $2400.
Good deal!
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:49 PM   #173
mr.nicknasty8
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What is your take on already mixed paint like http://www.automotivetouchup.com/aut..._basecoat.aspx

I'm looking for some to respray my bumper
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:16 PM   #174
dericn
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Question 2012 WRX SWP Fog Lights...

I'm still too new here to start a new thread, but I figured this thread was an appropriate place to ask this question...

A few days after I picked up my 2012 SWP WRX, my nephew asked me if I realized that my passenger side fog light didn't match the bumper. Sure enough, the fog light insert looked like it was missing the pearl finish. The drivers side fog looked fine.

Here's a cropped section of a picture I took the day I picked it up. Notice the difference in color in the spot I outlined, where the fog light housing and bumper meet.



When I picked up my new license plates at the dealer, I showed it to them, and they agreed that it doesn't match, and that the drivers side does. They ordered a replacement fog light, and installed it today. Guess what? It doesn't match either...

After much staring, I'm now questioning if it really just depends on how the sunlight hits it. Sometimes, it looks like the drivers side might have the same issue. Perhaps the bumper and fog light housing are made of different plastic, and don't take paint the same?

The dealer has offered to send the car off to their body shop to have the bumper and fog lights repainted as a complete unit, but I don't want to bother if it's not going to make a difference.

If anyone has a SWP with fogs, can you tell me if yours matches?

Thanks,

-Eric

P.S. Other than this minor issue, I'm LOVING this car!...
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:33 PM   #175
E85FTW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dericn View Post
I'm still too new here to start a new thread, but I figured this thread was an appropriate place to ask this question...

A few days after I picked up my 2012 SWP WRX, my nephew asked me if I realized that my passenger side fog light didn't match the bumper. Sure enough, the fog light insert looked like it was missing the pearl finish. The drivers side fog looked fine.

Here's a cropped section of a picture I took the day I picked it up. Notice the difference in color in the spot I outlined, where the fog light housing and bumper meet.



When I picked up my new license plates at the dealer, I showed it to them, and they agreed that it doesn't match, and that the drivers side does. They ordered a replacement fog light, and installed it today. Guess what? It doesn't match either...

After much staring, I'm now questioning if it really just depends on how the sunlight hits it. Sometimes, it looks like the drivers side might have the same issue. Perhaps the bumper and fog light housing are made of different plastic, and don't take paint the same?

The dealer has offered to send the car off to their body shop to have the bumper and fog lights repainted as a complete unit, but I don't want to bother if it's not going to make a difference.

If anyone has a SWP with fogs, can you tell me if yours matches?

Thanks,

-Eric

P.S. Other than this minor issue, I'm LOVING this car!...
Take the dealer on there offer, it will match if they repaint everything at once. It looks like the person who painted the bumper shot the spray to close on the foglight cover..
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