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Old 09-05-2011, 04:49 PM   #1
AdamBOMB_STi
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Default Oil galley porting

After a lot of research and brainstorming on how to make our motors oil more efficiently I (very bored mind you) decided this morning to tackle some oil galley porting on my new LA T-Sleeved EJ25. I've found various post of people doing minor oil galley porting, so I decided to take it a step further and do all the galleys and oil ports I could access. From my experience working and customizing Suby's from mild to wild I feel for the couple hours worth of porting this is a worthwhile mod. This motor is for my Time Attack STi, and will be running a 12mm ported oil pump and an Accusump.

Comments and criticism is all welcomed!








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Old 04-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #2
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Looking good AdamBOMB_STi! Not trying to jack your thread, but I looked and found yours before I decided to post pics. I did a little of the same today and thought it would be cool to try and keep this in one informative thread.









Last edited by Crazykev; 04-05-2012 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:44 PM   #3
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If you guys look at the oil pump you can port match it to the seal.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:59 PM   #4
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I plan on doing some porting on my pump also. Wish I took pictures before I did the porting. Removed a cast in step then radius'd at the pump port and radius'd and opened up where it flows into the filter. Getting rid of those two problems had to increase the flow a decent amount.

I did something similar on the intake side of the block for the oil pump as AdamBOMB_STi. I'll get some pics of that too.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:06 PM   #5
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Another nice thing I've learned to do was to remove all the sharp edges around the block and anywhere I can find them. Something I carried over from my v8 days lol
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:06 PM   #6
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A little blurry, but I think this shows the radius I put in that feed galley better.


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Old 04-05-2012, 07:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsubiemod View Post
Another nice thing I've learned to do was to remove all the sharp edges around the block and anywhere I can find them. Something I carried over from my v8 days lol
For sure! I have even sanded the return ports from the heads to get rid of any flashing.

I've picked up some of my block prep ideas from Team Scream.

A couple hours of work should go a long way.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:29 PM   #8
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On all of our track specific engines we do work on all the oil passages, I don't know if I would call it porting as most of them don't need to be opened up.

Matt

Edit, you are on the right track.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:30 PM   #9
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This ^^^ is great! One thing that I have noticed is the catch point between the head and the block on the bottom outside parts of the block on the oil return from the heads. There is a step there not allowing the oil to flow as well as it should be back into the pan. You guys noticed that any?
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:32 PM   #10
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I think we are are talking about the same flashing that I removed on the oil return ports at the bottom of the block.

Last edited by Crazykev; 04-05-2012 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:38 PM   #11
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Ok ^^. Yeah, when I saw that for the first time I was like that shouldn't be that way... So, on the block I am going to have built soon I am going to have that taken care of along with the other oil ports and such.

What bit or bits are you using? Also, which oil port does the oil flow from into the filter, is it the middle one or the port just to the right of the middle port?
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
This ^^^ is great! One thing that I have noticed is the catch point between the head and the block on the bottom outside parts of the block on the oil return from the heads. There is a step there not allowing the oil to flow as well as it should be back into the pan. You guys noticed that any?
Again it depends on what the use of the engine we are building is because its fairly labor intensive to do, but we removing the flashing inside the head and in the block to aid in oil flow back to the pan.

Anything you can do in a subaru engine to get the oil to flow as quickly as possible back to the pan from the heads is good.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:56 PM   #13
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I think we could all agree with that
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:47 PM   #14
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This is my port to the pick-up tube. I didn't make the hole much larger in diameter where the tube slides in. I measured the ID of the pickup tube and that port and they are almost the same.

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Old 04-05-2012, 09:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subi400 View Post
Ok ^^. Yeah, when I saw that for the first time I was like that shouldn't be that way... So, on the block I am going to have built soon I am going to have that taken care of along with the other oil ports and such.

What bit or bits are you using? Also, which oil port does the oil flow from into the filter, is it the middle one or the port just to the right of the middle port?
It's the one to the right of the middle port. The middle threaded port is the return back into the block from the filter.

I'm using a dremel to do this. Not optimum for the job, but it works. I am using a couple different bits starting of with the cutting bits, then stones and finally sanding barrels. I also use cut strips of emery cloth like 3/8" wide and thread it into the ports to finish the radius.
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Old 04-06-2012, 06:35 AM   #16
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Another oil mod is on the main bearing journals. I know with acl bearings the oil feed hole on #2 and #4 mains don't line up with the feed hole in the bearing. You can reshape the feed hole in the main to match the hole in the bearing. #1, #3, and #5 oil feed holes in the mains are slightly larger and line up pretty good. Plus there is the oil valley that carries oil to the other side of the bearing. The #2 and #4 bearings don't have this valley. On my ej22t block the hole in the main and the hole in the bearing were offset by as much as 1/3 the size of the hole in the bearing. I will post pics later today when I get home from work.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:32 AM   #17
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I'll check my bearings today to see what you are talking about. One thing I can say is that I would rather have the oil flow through the holes in my main bearings equally all around. That groove for the oil to travel to the other holes in the bearing is smaller than the feed to them. Match that feed up with with one hole and not the others I would think could starve the other side of oil?

What I have been trying to do is remove restrictions where I can, yet not alter which bearing gets more or less oil. After the oil goes back into the block and splits to other galleys I'm going to leave them be. Like the galley that passes from one side of the block to the other I'm not going to mess with. Those 90deg. bends are where the real restrictions are and not the steps in diameter if they are tapered. The blending in tapered areas to me isn't worth the added crap that I would generate and send down those galleys.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:09 PM   #18
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You'll get the biggest benefit from porting/polishing the pump. The passages from pickup to pump have some sharp corners that could be smoothed, but besides that it's not the bottleneck from a flow/flow disturbance perspective.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:40 PM   #19
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Thanks KillerB. I'll post up pics once I do the pump.

I tried to get pics of those oil return ports at the bottom of the block, but it's difficult to see the work I did. It's really more removing the flashing than much porting. I just try to round the edges.











They don't look as nice as the galley work because they are bitch to get to.
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:44 PM   #20
Crazykev
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I am using a garden hose and AN-8 to metric adapter to clean all the galleys when done.

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Old 04-07-2012, 12:04 AM   #21
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Question for the engine builders:

I already sanded the sharp edges on the main bearing bridges that you see when looking into the cylinders, but has anyone ever thought of shaping those a bit? That air behind the cylinders is being pumped back and forth in the block and I was thinking that making them more aerodynamic would be beneficial possibly?

Something like knife edging a crank.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:52 AM   #22
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Bumpin' this up to see if you guys think my idea is crazy or not?
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:38 AM   #23
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<--- not a builder, but from a fluid dynamics standpoint I would think this would be a double edged sword, and not comparable to knife edgeing a crank.

Making air flow out of the bore easier would also allow more air to flow inward and into the piston too. It's certainly an interesting idea though.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:52 PM   #24
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Wish I'd noticed this yesterday while doing this to a block. I'd have taken some photos.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:42 PM   #25
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That would be cool if the next time you do a block 3MI, if you could post pics. Are you going further than what we have posted?

Funny thing is that my block won't ever see high HP (400whp max). Just building a pretty standard 2.1 stroker with nitride crank, Eagle rods and Mahle stroker pistons. I was just bored and waiting on torque plates. I'm sure my build doesn't need any of it, but I'm sure it won't hurt.

Just noticed the "some" in your post. Guess some of it is a trade secret? I can appreciate that!
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