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Old 05-23-2012, 05:27 PM   #51
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What is the Indiana plate area??

Mel
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Originally Posted by mboulton View Post
after some searching around, I think the Indiana plate is the plate that you remove at the rear passenger side (USDM) to access the wrist pin and clip. Not sure what needs to be smoothed out back there though.
That's the one.

I just debur, radius some edges and do some opening up.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:47 PM   #52
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I'm actually doing this now so I'll update this in a min but here is a pic of what you need to port and smooth out. Arrows pointing right at them lol
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:52 PM   #53
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Ah thanks! I was starting to think I was slowly going insane and seeing shapes of faces in oil blotches. Haha I even googled an image of Indiana and compared it to the plate. I fell better knowing this.


Canadian eh? Gotta learn my US state geography and EJ257b anatomy.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:35 PM   #54
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Before



After




bypass and inlet area removed of restrictions. steps removed that impeded flow


gear area smoothed out


exit hole enlarged to match seal area and radiused


gear area knive edged on the exit and tapered into

this takes a steady hand and I will caution everyone to be careful! dont run with scissors..
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #55
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Looks good! Definitely going to do this to my pump when I pull the motor out
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:57 PM   #56
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This is my P&L ported 11mm pump for you guys to reference.









Kind of crappy pics but you get the idea. I plan on porting a couple of the passages on my block at some point. I know I bought that die grinder for a reason more than just my TGV's.
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:06 PM   #57
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I would actually stay away from the bypass area^^
One little burr or sharp edge and that plungers sticking..

As mentioned, very sensitive work
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:52 PM   #58
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Thanks for the pictures guys! Going to do this for sure and I agree wrxsubiemod, I am going to just de-burr the bypass area. Not sure what the gains would be screwing with the bypass anyhow? Possibly help with not not heating the bypassed oil up?

I'll post pics when I do my pump, but it is going to be a while. I haven't ordered my pump yet. I just replaced mine about 8k ago and might just use it if I don't find any crap in the motor when I go to do my swap. I haven't had any type of failure with my current engine, so it should be ok. It's an 11mm pump and I don't want to get a new one if there is nothing wrong with this one on my current block.

I am going to replace the cooler because I have no way to inspect it. The pump on the other hand can be inspected and cleaned.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:08 PM   #59
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Some pics of my block. Nothing different that what has already been posted.











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Old 05-23-2012, 11:24 PM   #60
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Make sure you DO NOT open up the port going into the block from the oil pickup. Increasing that diameter or adding a radius to that surface can cause the o-ring to not seal properly and you will suck air. This area is also not even close to being a restriction and there's no reason to touch it.
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:43 AM   #61
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I would actually stay away from the bypass area^^
One little burr or sharp edge and that plungers sticking..
I would certainly hope that anyone doing any porting on the oil pump would have it completely disassembled and cleaned before even thinking about putting it into use.
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:52 AM   #62
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^ I agree, and can not stress enough how careful one needs to be with the oil pump.

How many oem pumps fail on start up? How well can someone trust themselves to do a better job than OEM?
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:02 PM   #63
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A beautiful thing. Thanks to everyone for sharing.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:51 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Make sure you DO NOT open up the port going into the block from the oil pickup. Increasing that diameter or adding a radius to that surface can cause the o-ring to not seal properly and you will suck air. This area is also not even close to being a restriction and there's no reason to touch it.
I thought that was a bad place to mess with. I didn't touch the pick-up side of that port, just the other end at the pump. I figured it needed to be left alone, plus the pick-uptube slides into that port, so enlarging it would do nothing.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:36 PM   #65
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Any updates and or pics from anyone? I havent had time but should do a lil work on my FXT block halves before everything goes in... Also thinking about doing a lil work on my 11mm oil pump.

Thanks

Ian,
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:32 PM   #66
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Hey smitty5788, I am just pointing this out so if you haven't done it, you can, but the port from the pump to the block really needs to be radiused the opposite way that you did. The port to the block split goes nowhere and is blocked off and is only there so they can machine the galley to the oil filter. You need the other side to flow better being that the oil is flowing to the filter if you catch what I'm saying? I radiused both, but the side leading to the filter is radiused MUCH more than the other way going to the split.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:41 AM   #67
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The 11mm oil pump by the by pass area is really thin in the first place, I wouldn't even touch it with a porting bit, maybe polish it up that is it. The first 11mm pump we started to port on, and it as very light! We blew through the wall on it. SO just a little warning.

I have done a ton of block porting, What I found is just keep it simple and don't get porting happy.

The pick up tube area Just radius the flat edges and then leave the pick up hole alone.

The other side of the block "oil pump o ring area" port the bump out of the block. o ring match it as well. Then I take all of the oil hole ridges and smooth every hole, head matting side too.

Radius the oil filter side and open it up Just as CrazyKev posted..

I all ways run Subaru oem 11mm oil pump they are plenty for just about every car even high horse power. 12mm pump have there issues , and if you are running a 12mm check how tight the pump gear cover bolts are, I have seen them lose right out of the box.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:03 AM   #68
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^^^Thanks Shaun!!!^^^

Last edited by rexworx; 06-07-2012 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:50 PM   #69
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Well I did most of all my work above to the block im building for the fxt. I was looking at the through the machined hole in the bearing journal. I could see the machining didnt go all the way through to the oil galley that feeds them. The hole is machined to around 1/4", but the casting hole is only about 1/8-3/16" on #3 and #5.

I really want to just punch them out to 1/4" with a drill bit. Anyone doing this?

Thanks,

Ian,

Last edited by rexworx; 06-08-2012 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 06-08-2012, 07:02 AM   #70
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I can say I haven't enlarged any of the galleys, just really smoothed them out and got rid of steps. Not saying it would be a bad idea, but I just don't know?
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:10 AM   #71
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Yeah I cant see it being a bad thing... If you look into the hole on the bearing journal you will see the casting imperfections at the bottom of teh hole right where oil makes a 90* turn.

Im not too good at explaining things sometimes sorry.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:12 AM   #72
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Have you guys taken numbered drill bits and plunge the galleys to see how "manufacturing" changes from day to day?
Im rather interseted in the casting changes they have.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:30 AM   #73
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subscribing for future project
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:32 PM   #74
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Well I opened up the holes in the casting where the machined holes feed the journal bearings. I used a 1/4 drill bit and opened up the bottom of the hole to match the machined size. Sorry Im terrible at explaining things. does thats make sense at all?

Now that a have done it I fear I effed up big time and shouldnt have touched them. Maybe subaru did this for a reason? I assume no but Im trembling non the less.

So anyone, Was this a really bad idea? I know I should have taken the time to reasearch this more before I did it. I dont know what I was thinking.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:56 AM   #75
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Well from what I can see, DO NOT open up the restricters. Dont be a dbag like me!
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