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Old 06-30-2013, 05:29 PM   #101
JSS829
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Done! Took me about two hours from start to finish just because I was terrified of cross threading the rear bushing screw. Not too bad of an install minus the numerous cuts I have on my hands and arms from the heat shield. Definitely a much improved shift feeling on the car though!
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Old 08-01-2013, 04:57 PM   #102
chillengillon
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subd for install this weekend!
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:11 AM   #103
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When changing the rear shifter bushing, how do you "remove" the heat shield above the exhaust? Did you have to cut a portion out with a dremel or some similar tool? I've unbolted all four 12 mm bolts holding the shield on, and I've disconnected the O2 sensor at the harness (as opposed to unscrewing it from the exhaust pipe). But I cannot fully remove the heat shield (not enough clearance between the exhaust and the body). Also, I have basically zero room to twist the ratchet to undo the two 13 mm bolts holding the rear bushing to the body. It seems to me like the only option is to drop the mid-pipe but I have not heard a single person saying they've needed to do this. Am I just phuking retarded or what? Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:17 AM   #104
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You can just shift it to one side to get the first bolt then do the other side for the other bolt. It's kind of tight, but you can get enough room. Just kinda pull it down on either side
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Old 08-09-2013, 03:25 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beef_biscuit View Post
When changing the rear shifter bushing, how do you "remove" the heat shield above the exhaust? Did you have to cut a portion out with a dremel or some similar tool? I've unbolted all four 12 mm bolts holding the shield on, and I've disconnected the O2 sensor at the harness (as opposed to unscrewing it from the exhaust pipe). But I cannot fully remove the heat shield (not enough clearance between the exhaust and the body). Also, I have basically zero room to twist the ratchet to undo the two 13 mm bolts holding the rear bushing to the body. It seems to me like the only option is to drop the mid-pipe but I have not heard a single person saying they've needed to do this. Am I just phuking retarded or what? Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I gently bent the heat shield and slid it out. No creases and can't even tell I did it. No dremeling or exhaust removal. Just kind of roll it out. Go slow gently and patient.

When removing the bolts for the back bushing I used extensions and the little swivel adapter on the end connected to the socket.
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:22 PM   #106
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Thanks for the advice. I ended up unbolting the connection between the mid-pipe and the muffler section of the exhaust, which dropped the rear of the exhaust enough to allow me just enough clearance to move the shield out of the way. Apparently the shield was getting stuck on the bolts that hold the collar of the propeller shaft to the body. =/

And I finally got the front/rear bushings installed. Some thoughts: Front was easy. Only hard part was prying that damn 1-piece bushing out. Rear... total and complete PITA. I don't know how the rest of you managed to pull this part of the install off so easy (even with extensions, swivel adapters, etc), my hat goes off to you. I ended up removing the metal bracket and rubber boot that surrounds the shift linkage from inside the car to get to the bushing from above. Unbolting was easy enough, but threading the two bolts through the kartboy bushing back into the body was a different story. Bolted one side in, the other wouldn't fit, and vice-versa. Eventually, after enough tugging and swearing, I got both bolts to barely thread in enough to finish them off with the ratchet.

I'm not a religious man. But after all the trouble I've had installing some simple bushings and the Group N motor mounts, I'm beginning to believe that there is a god, and that he is an angry, vengeful god that would prefer I kept my car bone stock.

Happy trails! And better luck to those of you who try this in the future
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Old 08-10-2013, 06:39 PM   #107
arewmors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beef_biscuit View Post
Thanks for the advice. I ended up unbolting the connection between the mid-pipe and the muffler section of the exhaust, which dropped the rear of the exhaust enough to allow me just enough clearance to move the shield out of the way. Apparently the shield was getting stuck on the bolts that hold the collar of the propeller shaft to the body. =/

And I finally got the front/rear bushings installed. Some thoughts: Front was easy. Only hard part was prying that damn 1-piece bushing out. Rear... total and complete PITA. I don't know how the rest of you managed to pull this part of the install off so easy (even with extensions, swivel adapters, etc), my hat goes off to you. I ended up removing the metal bracket and rubber boot that surrounds the shift linkage from inside the car to get to the bushing from above. Unbolting was easy enough, but threading the two bolts through the kartboy bushing back into the body was a different story. Bolted one side in, the other wouldn't fit, and vice-versa. Eventually, after enough tugging and swearing, I got both bolts to barely thread in enough to finish them off with the ratchet.

I'm not a religious man. But after all the trouble I've had installing some simple bushings and the Group N motor mounts, I'm beginning to believe that there is a god, and that he is an angry, vengeful god that would prefer I kept my car bone stock.

Happy trails! And better luck to those of you who try this in the future
I was lucky enough to use a lift for the project so it was a lot easier than laying on the ground. The back bushing does suck but is worth the struggle and swearing. It was tough even with a lift. Glad you were able to complete the install. Hope you enjoy
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Old 08-10-2013, 08:40 PM   #108
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Thanks brutha
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Old 12-31-2013, 10:31 PM   #109
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how do you know how to orientate the rear bushing? does the hole for the link go on the bottom or the top?

If i had to guess I would say the hole had to be on the bottom?
Can anyone confirm?
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:47 PM   #110
arewmors
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It can only go one way in order for the rest of the shifter assembly to go back in correctly. Try this,

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2239707

Last edited by arewmors; 12-31-2013 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:49 AM   #111
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nice... Thank you!
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:41 PM   #112
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I plan to do the bushings too but already have the factory short shift. Can I keep that and dti replace to the kartboy bushings? Still an improvement?
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:05 PM   #113
arewmors
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderman.666 View Post
I plan to do the bushings too but already have the factory short shift. Can I keep that and dti replace to the kartboy bushings? Still an improvement?
The factory short shifter with the stock bushings still isn't very good IMO, very sloppy. You can keep what you have and still do the front and rear bushings and will make a huge difference. I have the factory short shifter linkages with a kartboy short shifter stick and the bushings all after market.
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:08 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arewmors View Post
The factory short shifter with the stock bushings still isn't very good IMO, very sloppy. You can keep what you have and still do the front and rear bushings and will make a huge difference. I have the factory short shifter linkages with a kartboy short shifter stick and the bushings all after market.
Oh I ddnt know there is a 'linkage' too. I always thought it's just a short shifter stick. I guess what I have from factory is also the short 'linkage' with a regular height shifter stick, because the stick is kind of tall when I use a oem sti shift knob.

If I stick with my setup and just wanted to replace the bushing, do I still need to remove the shifter stick like the op's instruction?

Also, best place to order the bushings? It's for my 13' wrx hatchback
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:45 PM   #115
arewmors
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Yea you need to in order to install front and back bushings. What kind of bushings you want. Kartboy, perrin, Cobb? Rallysportdirect.com is good for stuff, Cobbperformance.com for the Cobb. Kartboy performance for kartboy if they're not on rallysport.
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Old 01-01-2014, 03:08 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arewmors View Post
Yea you need to in order to install front and back bushings. What kind of bushings you want. Kartboy, perrin, Cobb? Rallysportdirect.com is good for stuff, Cobbperformance.com for the Cobb. Kartboy performance for kartboy if they're not on rallysport.
This thread is talkjng about kartboy, so kartboy is what I m looking for... Lol
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Old 01-01-2014, 04:50 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiderman.666 View Post

Oh I ddnt know there is a 'linkage' too. I always thought it's just a short shifter stick. I guess what I have from factory is also the short 'linkage' with a regular height shifter stick, because the stick is kind of tall when I use a oem sti shift knob.

If I stick with my setup and just wanted to replace the bushing, do I still need to remove the shifter stick like the op's instruction?

Also, best place to order the bushings? It's for my 13' wrx hatchback
The linkages have been proven to be the same between stock and factory short throw. Look up xluben's comparison thread on it. I swapped out just the stick from my buddy's factory ss to mine with no issues, and it's same throw his was before.

Also, I did not remove the shifter to do front and rear bushings (did them long before the shifter swap). There's enough movement with the car in neutral to keep the stay attached to the shifter and get both bushings swapped out.

Edit: link - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2434535
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:20 PM   #118
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Just wanted to bump this to say thanks to the OP for the write-up. I used it to successfully install the kartboy shifter and front/rear bushings on my STI on Saturday. Overall, the install was straight forward. And the new feel in shifting is well worth it. If you have an STI you'll discover that the worst part is the reverse lock out cable.

In case anyone else with an STI finds this thread and uses it for their install, I want to add a couple things to note.

- Once the shifter stabilizer bar/new bushings have been reinstalled, from underneath the car use your hand to push the lever for the reverse lockout cable towards the back of the car and stick a screw driver behind the lever to keep it in place. This mimics the action of pulling up on the reverse lockout from inside the car. It will give you slack to work with the reverse lockout cable and will make it much easier to thread the tip of the cable into the new shifter assembly.

- The easiest way to align the hole in the tip of the reverse lock out cable with the hole in the reverse lockout lever is with a skinny punch. first, stick the punch through the hole of the reverse lock out lever and the reverse lockout cable to ensure it is aligned. Then take the pin and push it into the hole while pulling the punch back through the other side.

Lastly, after the install was finished I noticed a lot of rattling and squeaking coming from the shifter area while taking it for a drive. What I discovered was that the reverse lockout cable needed to be secured in 2 areas to prevent from any rattling. The picture below was my solution to stopping the rattle. The zip tie connecting the reverse lock out cable to the shifter eliminated the rattling in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. However, the rattle/squeaking still occurred in 5th and 6th. Adding the second zip tie to pull the bottom portion of the reverse lockout cable to the passenger side of the car eliminated this.

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Old 03-24-2014, 07:25 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00ter View Post
Just wanted to bump this to say thanks to the OP for the write-up. I used it to successfully install the kartboy shifter and front/rear bushings on my STI on Saturday. Overall, the install was straight forward. And the new feel in shifting is well worth it. If you have an STI you'll discover that the worst part is the reverse lock out cable.

In case anyone else with an STI finds this thread and uses it for their install, I want to add a couple things to note.

- Once the shifter stabilizer bar/new bushings have been reinstalled, from underneath the car use your hand to push the lever for the reverse lockout cable towards the back of the car and stick a screw driver behind the lever to keep it in place. This mimics the action of pulling up on the reverse lockout from inside the car. It will give you slack to work with the reverse lockout cable and will make it much easier to thread the tip of the cable into the new shifter assembly.

- The easiest way to align the hole in the tip of the reverse lock out cable with the hole in the reverse lockout lever is with a skinny punch. first, stick the punch through the hole of the reverse lock out lever and the reverse lockout cable to ensure it is aligned. Then take the pin and push it into the hole while pulling the punch back through the other side.

Lastly, after the install was finished I noticed a lot of rattling and squeaking coming from the shifter area while taking it for a drive. What I discovered was that the reverse lockout cable needed to be secured in 2 areas to prevent from any rattling. The picture below was my solution to stopping the rattle. The zip tie connecting the reverse lock out cable to the shifter eliminated the rattling in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. However, the rattle/squeaking still occurred in 5th and 6th. Adding the second zip tie to pull the bottom portion of the reverse lockout cable to the passenger side of the car eliminated this.
Awesome man, glad it worked out well for you!
Thanks for the tips too for the STi members.

Cheers!

- Jason
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:40 PM   #120
EricInHoodRiver
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Anybody install Cobb or Kartboy bushings and wish they had not with respect to added tranny noise in cabin?

I just put in a kartboy sts in a 2011 Wrx hatch and love it! The shifts feel pretty crisp as is. Not sure if crisper is worth the noisier.

Interested in other's experiences.

Eric
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:43 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricInHoodRiver View Post
Anybody install Cobb or Kartboy bushings and wish they had not with respect to added tranny noise in cabin?

I just put in a kartboy sts in a 2011 Wrx hatch and love it! The shifts feel pretty crisp as is. Not sure if crisper is worth the noisier.

Interested in other's experiences.

Eric
Hood River
Hey Eric,
Give it one week and I promise you won't know it's there. Also, make sure your pivot bolt isn't over torqued. Mine was at first and it does make a huge difference in transmission noise. If I recall correctly, it's only 5lbs of torque for that bolt.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:02 PM   #122
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I did not have any extra tranny noise after install of STS and Bushings... But my car had more noise in 1st and 2nd from the factory than the other gears anyway. Also, made shifting smother. The short throw wasnt worth the money for me, but the bushings were. I have the COBB adjustable STS and have it fully extended because I like the height, it feels like the same amount of throw as stock too.
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Old 03-29-2014, 06:12 PM   #123
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Okay. Pulling the trigger on f/r Cobb bushings this Friday. Local Cobb shop only charging me 0.5h for install too, so I'll gladly let them do that.

Eric
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:02 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricInHoodRiver View Post
Anybody install Cobb or Kartboy bushings and wish they had not with respect to added tranny noise in cabin?

I just put in a kartboy sts in a 2011 Wrx hatch and love it! The shifts feel pretty crisp as is. Not sure if crisper is worth the noisier.

Interested in other's experiences.

Eric
Hood River
It takes a little getting used to but after a week or so you don't really pay attention to it. Like Overland04 said, make sure not to over tighten the pivot bolt. Tom @ Kartboy recommend 8lbs - 10lbs maximum. I went with 8lbs and it seems perfect. Once you get used to the new solid feel, you won't want to go back to the stock mushy feel.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:19 PM   #125
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Yeah. Everyone I've spoken too who has done is telling me it's kind of a no brainer mod. I'll post up Friday evening with the results.

Eric
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