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Old 09-13-2011, 09:33 PM   #1
Kunk
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Default Couple questions before I attempt a full detail

Alright so this weekend I am planning on doing a full detail to my 2011 WRB WRX. I'm going to wash the car tomorrow, but its just a basic wash so nothing special. I have NEVER gone any further on detailing then just a wash. I have swirl marks, and a few water spots on my hood so I was thinking of picking up Meguirs Clay Bar Kit. I was going to wash the car, let it dry, then use a quick detail spray on the area I am about to clay as use that as lubricant I guess. I was then going to wipe off the area with a MF towel. Now since I used a claybar does that mean I HAVE to re-wax the car or does a claybar not take all the wax off? If so can I just use a spray wax or will I have to get a buff/polish and all that good stuff. Thanks in advance for any tips and help.

Forgot these are the products I currently use:
Meguirs Ultimate Wash & Wax,
Meguirs Spray Wax
Microfiber Wash Mitt
2 Bucket method
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:01 PM   #2
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the clay bar will clean and take off most of the contaminants on your paint, but for the swirls you need more. A polish would help. then you should wax.
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:10 PM   #3
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Drop the wash and wax and use meguiars gold class shampoo
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:16 PM   #4
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you can use dawn dishwashing soap to strip the paint of the original wax and then clay clay the car. i sometimes lightly dry the car and then begin with the wax because the spray lubricant will have to be wiped off after claying a certain part of the panel anyways. i dont know if you can just skip the compounding stage with WRB paint or just go straight to a polish so i'll let kean or someone else chime in.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:20 AM   #5
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if you go all out the basics would be

1 wash
2 clay
3 compound or polish
4 wax
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:26 AM   #6
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When claying a car you are removing all impurities in your cars clear coat. It would probably be a good idea to clay the whole outside of your car, especially the lower side skirts. It removes all unwanted dirt and grime that a regular wash can't get rid of. Your basically prepping the outside of your car for either compounding or waxing.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:28 AM   #7
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When claying you do need to spray on some kind of lubricant onto the body of the car, and wipe off when finished. Work on one body panel on a time so that the lubricant doesn't dry. The swirl can probably be buffed out. The rule of thumb for compounding a car is that if you can't run your fingernail through it, it can be buffed out.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:40 AM   #8
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Claybar will remove all surface contaminants including wax. So to answer your question, yes you will have to reapply wax after the claybar process.

Also your claybar will NOT remove swirls. It is for cleaning the paint's surface, removing light spotting, and removing any imbedded particulates ie. Rail dust, industrial fallout etc.

Removing swirls will require you to use a compound and polish. In your case maybe just the Polish as Subaru paint is rather soft. You seem to be a fan of Meguiars so I will recommend Ultimate Compound followed by Ultimate Polish. These two products are essentially the consumer version on M105/M205 which are an excellent pairing of products. They also work pretty well by hand which is how I assume you will be doing your correcting.

Now I would also suggest that you use a more dedicated wax such as NXT or Ultimate Wax (still assuming brand loyalty) as a spray wax will only last for a few weeks at best. A more dedicated wax CAN (dependant on maintenance schedule and product choice) give you months of protection.

Now with all that being said exactly how far are you willing to go with this "Full Detail" considering what all that phrase entails? As there is a great deal of knowledge to be shared on this topic, there are also writeups that can give you a better and more visual idea of how to proceed.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:44 AM   #9
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....I think Aspen hit the nail on the head although I would add that in some cases a good decon product is more effective at removing some contaminants (especially embedded ferrous material) better than clay alone. ....which is really more for above-surface issues.

If you decide to correct your blemishes/scratches (or marring from your claying step) using the products Aspen mentioned, I would strongly suggest trying your products on test area first. If possible, you can even use painters tape and section off a relatively small area on a panel (~1'x1' or a little bigger for example). Start with the Ultimate Polish first, assess and move up to the Ultimate Compound if needed (followed by the UP to remove any light marring left by the UC). Make sure to use adequate lighting and pull the car out into the sun periodically to help check your progress. The idea is to test your products and techniques on this small area first before committing to the entire vehicle. It will save you a lot of time, effort and frustration in the long run. Once you settle on a process that will give you a result you can live with, tackle the rest of the car.

Just a note about Ultimate Polish.... Meguairs has formulated this product with a heavy amount of polishing oils (even more than M205 apparently). As a result, UP can act like a glaze and have the ability to conceal some lighter blemishes. If you want to make sure how well any of your polishes are doing at actual correction, you can use a solvent like odorless mineral spirits or something like a 10% solution of IPA (rubbing alcohol) in a spray bottle to wipe down the area (using a paint-safe towel). ....this will help remove some (if not all) of the oils to reveal the paints true state. An alternative to UP is Swirl-X (also from Meguiars) which is supposed to have a similar cut but not as many polishing oils. This is in no way slamming UP, but I thought it was just something you should be aware of.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:54 AM   #10
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I picked up my black '11 WRX Limited on April 1 and had a go at a full exterior this weekend.

Since I've never really bothered before it was a learning experience but my results were really great. I'm sure there are a million better products but I went with Meguiar's and then the Turtle Wax Ice clay kit:

Washed car with Meguiar's Gold Class car shampoo
Dried car
Turtle wax liquid clay (which really cleaned the car and apparently removed all the dealer delivered wax as water stopped beading and simply sheeted off the car) usaing terry cloths.
Rinsed car down and dried again
Turtle wax clay bar and supplied lube
Finally I used Turtle Wax Ice wax and polished by hand.

Apart from sore arms and many hours spent the car looked wet once all done.

Will likely do this once more late fall with another collection of goods and compare.
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Old 09-14-2011, 11:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
....I think Aspen hit the nail on the head although I would add that in some cases a good decon product is more effective at removing some contaminants (especially embedded ferrous material) better than clay alone. ....which is really more for above-surface issues.
Yes that is definately worth mentioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
Just a note about Ultimate Polish.... Meguairs has formulated this product with a heavy amount of polishing oils (even more than M205 apparently).
I did not know that, of course it makes complete sense being a consumer product.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AspenScoob255 View Post
I did not know that, of course it makes complete sense being a consumer product.
....yeah. I ran across some of the earlier discussions on MOL when UP hit the market (IIRC, I first heard it from Michael Stoops). On the other hand, I have heard the same thing pointed out about M205 from some users.

In my case, I typically do a solvent wipe-down on some areas and a final wash of the entire vehicle with a heavy soap solution/cleaner anyhow before I apply my LSP. ....to remove any dust, residue, etc.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:38 PM   #13
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Interesting, I have used 205 a few times and can vouch for its oily nature. I will have to pick up some UP and see for myself. You wouldn't happen to have a link to the article you could pm me would you? If not on hand I will search.

Sorry OP back to your topic
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:40 PM   #14
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Awesome thank you guys for all the advice. I just did a good wash today, and I will probably give buffing/claying/waxing a shot in a month or two. Until then I am going to read all the guides I can and have my products lined up. Once again I appreciate all the help.

The swirl marks and water marks are from when the dealership "detailed" the car before I picked it up on August 1st, so I can still wait a little bit to learn my gameplan, and have everything lined up.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:01 PM   #15
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I want to get my swirls out, I was wondering if anyone thinks m105/m205 may be to aggressive for the "soft" Subaru paint?

By the looks of it, it looks like it works great but maybe you don't actually need something that aggressive for the paint if I'm correct?
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AspenScoob255 View Post
Interesting, I have used 205 a few times and can vouch for its oily nature. I will have to pick up some UP and see for myself. You wouldn't happen to have a link to the article you could pm me would you? If not on hand I will search.
....I did a quick search and I believe this was the one I remembered although there were a couple of discussions on the subject:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ltimate-Polish

I have never used it myself although I am personally familiar with UC (as well as M105/M205 as far as Meguiars polishes are concerned).
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kunk View Post
Awesome thank you guys for all the advice. I just did a good wash today, and I will probably give buffing/claying/waxing a shot in a month or two. Until then I am going to read all the guides I can and have my products lined up. Once again I appreciate all the help.
....this thread may also help. It's a compilation of links I put together a couple of years ago:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1877117
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulless View Post
I want to get my swirls out, I was wondering if anyone thinks m105/m205 may be to aggressive for the "soft" Subaru paint?

By the looks of it, it looks like it works great but maybe you don't actually need something that aggressive for the paint if I'm correct?
….you may find that M205 is enough with the right pad combo depending on the severity of the blemishes in your scenario and your goal. Honestly, I have barely touched my M105 and have found (so far) that UC is enough when I need something stronger (especially on relatively soft paint). That was the last combo I used on my Brilliant Black Challenger (which has relatively “harder” paint) and it worked really well.

These days I prefer not to chase every isolated, deep scratch like I used to and I’m quite satisfied with a finish that is relatively blemish free. I’m admittedly just not that anal about it anymore (too many other things going on in my life right now).
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:23 PM   #19
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I figure Ill ask in here. I want to get rid of swirl marks. Im really getting tired of seeing them after I feel like I washed my car well. So I picked up Meguiars Ultimate Compound today because I couldn't find Ultimate Polish. So my question is can I..
-Wash
-Clay
-Compound
-Wax?
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:32 AM   #20
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UC is a "strong polish"... not that much cut like other "compounds". follow it up with swirl-x if you want to prevent hazing. and of course wax to finish it up. the only product from meguiars that should be allowed to dry is the wax.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeRAWR View Post
I figure Ill ask in here. I want to get rid of swirl marks. Im really getting tired of seeing them after I feel like I washed my car well. So I picked up Meguiars Ultimate Compound today because I couldn't find Ultimate Polish. So my question is can I..
-Wash
-Clay
-Compound
-Wax?
....as jxkim mentioned, Meguiars Swirl-X is just as capable as a light/finishing polish. Personally, I wouldn't use UC without following up with a finer polish (especially by hand). I would also suggest trying the products out on a test panel/section first so you have an idea of what is involved when you tackle the rest of the car. You may find something like Swirl-X leaves the finish in a state that is "sufficient".

Sometimes it boils down to a balance of time, effort and results "you can live with". ....again, especially when you're doing it all by hand.
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:55 PM   #22
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Cool, I decided I'm going to do a small detail on Sunday. Now since I have a 2011 the paint is still fairly new since I just picked it up 1.5 months ago. I have a few waterspots on the hood and trunk. There is also very very very tiny scratches on the same spots. Here is what I was thinking.
Wash with Meguirs Gold Class
Claybar with Meguirs Clay Bar Kit using the detailer as lubricant
Rewash the car
???
Wax the car.

Now the ??? is should there be anything else I should do, or no since the car is still in pristine condition or should I polish. If so any over-the-counter products you recommend and what method do I use. All my work will be done by hand. Also what over the counter wax do you recommend. I was going to buy a couple applicator pads and use those and do two sections then go back and wipe off the first section then wait a minute or two and wipe off the other section. Repeat process until the entire car is done. Once again I appreciate the help.
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kunk
Wash (double bucket method) with Meguirs Gold Class
Claybar with Meguirs Clay Bar Kit using the detailer as lubricant
Polish with nu care (nu finish?) Its in an orange bottle, can be had at any advance auto
Wax with collinite 845
Wax with collinite 845
.
Fixed your items to be had otc.

People will tell you to buy good applicator pads for autogeek.net (whatever that sight may be)

But in a pinch it'll work fine
Wax entire car then wipe nwax off
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:23 PM   #24
Kunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisboy385 View Post
Fixed your items to be had otc.

People will tell you to buy good applicator pads for autogeek.net (whatever that sight may be)

But in a pinch it'll work fine
Wax entire car then wipe nwax off
Hey they didn't have the Coolinite so I picked up the Meguiars Ultimate Wax Paste. Its still sealed if I need to return it.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kunk View Post
Cool, I decided I'm going to do a small detail on Sunday. Now since I have a 2011 the paint is still fairly new since I just picked it up 1.5 months ago. I have a few waterspots on the hood and trunk. There is also very very very tiny scratches on the same spots. Here is what I was thinking.
Wash with Meguirs Gold Class
Claybar with Meguirs Clay Bar Kit using the detailer as lubricant
Rewash the car
???
Wax the car.

Now the ??? is should there be anything else I should do, or no since the car is still in pristine condition or should I polish. If so any over-the-counter products you recommend and what method do I use. All my work will be done by hand. Also what over the counter wax do you recommend. I was going to buy a couple applicator pads and use those and do two sections then go back and wipe off the first section then wait a minute or two and wipe off the other section. Repeat process until the entire car is done. Once again I appreciate the help.
That should be fine, you will be hard pressed to find Col 845 OTC. I personally have never used the new Megs UW (yet) but i have yet to read a negative review.

Honestly there is no sense in over thinking your product selection, what works for one may not work for another. You need to put in the time and find the products that you can label your "favorites". And most meguiars products will satisfy the average car care enthusiast.

As far as your process goes, it looks sound and should provide you with good results. Claying of a new car alone will provide you with a much better surface area to apply your LSP (wax). You would be surprised how "dirty" factory fresh paint is.

The water spots may be removed by the clay bar, if not, polishing will be necessary. The scratches/swirls will only be removed through correction ie. compound/polish. With all of this being said, you need to decide how far you are willing to go with this. I see you also live in MD so keep in mind winter is on its way and your paint will get thrashed by all the road salt and such. A full on detail with correction may be short lived and you will make a quick return to swirl city if proper car is not taken.
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