Scoob Noob First Detail

[brinchn27]

Hi guys, so i plan on doing my first detailing of my WRX (ill take some pics)....just got it last week. I was just curious in how you guys cleaned that scotchguard material on the door. Can I use paint sealant or wax? Also what about the headlights, can paint sealer or wax be used on the lights. Thanks for those that answer.

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[AspenScoob255]

Originally Posted by brinchn27

Hi guys, so i plan on doing my first detailing of my WRX (ill take some pics)....just got it last week. I was just curious in how you guys cleaned that scotchguard material on the door. Can I use paint sealant or wax? Also what about the headlights, can paint sealer or wax be used on the lights. Thanks for those that answer.

Yes wax or sealant can be used on your lights and that clear bra material (I assume that is what you're referring to). Honestly when I use sealant, I hit all surfaces (minus plastic trim) to include; windows, lights, paint, wheels, exhaust and mirrors.

[Kean]

The following contains a collection of links to articles, videos, etc. on the subject of detailing that you may find useful:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1877117

Originally Posted by AspenScoob255

Honestly when I use sealant, I hit all surfaces (minus plastic trim)

....funny you should say that. I actually prefer to use waxes/sealants vs. dressings/protectants for use on trim in most cases. Obviously, some products are simply not suited for this (not trim-friendly) and/or some finishes/textures/condition can pose their own challenge but (for me) I use them whenever I can. I guess I just find them less messy, easier to apply/remove and relatively long lasting.

Opti-Seal is probably one of my most used sealants for trim if the surface is in good condition. ....I sometimes even apply via airbrush. For some oxidized finishes I will use an AIO like Klasse or ZAIO (although the latter can be a little aggressive on some finishes). I also had really good success with Fuzion for this purpose but never bought another jar after my sample ran out.

Anyhow, I've been using G/Techniq C4 on the trim of my Challenger since April. So far, I haven't had to re-address those areas (it's been holding up great). ....the same wasn't true on the Forester since I did have some performance issues in a couple of areas (trim was older and I'm still not ruling out prep as the cause). My next product to try will be Valugard ETR. I'm actually really interested after talking to the man that helped develop it. C4 is good but it's really not a restorative product IMO. ....in my case, I would only consider it for trim in new or like-new condition at this point.

I just recently (couple of months ago) applied Opti-Coat to most of the Forester including most of the trim. So far, I like the result.

[AspenScoob255]

Interesting, I will have to give some of those products a try as I really like sealing everything (so much easier to clean that way). I have actually been eyeing that valugard system for a few months now just haven't had the need for it yet. Actually, I read your review of the G4 product it look really good post application.

So you actually airbrush opti-seal on? Interesting...I am sure that cuts application time down tremendously. I suppose I am still in the "wax stains trim" mindset...need to get out of the box.

[Kean]

Originally Posted by AspenScoob255

Interesting, I will have to give some of those products a try as I really like sealing everything (so much easier to clean that way). I have actually been eyeing that valugard system for a few months now just haven't had the need for it yet. Actually, I read your review of the G4 product it look really good post application.

So you actually airbrush opti-seal on? Interesting...I am sure that cuts application time down tremendously. I suppose I am still in the "wax stains trim" mindset...need to get out of the box.

….yeah, airbrushing isn’t what I would recommend or would even say is worth trying for some folks. I did it out of curiosity one day after reading about a detailer who chose this method in his own shop (I already had the equipment). In my case, I found it actually worked quite well (especially when applying to trim or complex surfaces) as I was able to get even coverage in one or two passes. I found this method also works really well when I want to throw quick protection on wheels. However, you do waste more product and considering how easy OS is to apply with an applicator, it really may not be worth it to most. One nice thing I like about OS is its WOWA (wipe on, walk away) characteristics. …..there is little chance of using it on a surface (IME) that would be incompatible. In other words, it may not work well on some things (i.e. porous surfaces, oxidation, etc.), but at least it won’t discolor or leave a residue.

There are a lot of non-staining wax/sealants out there but there are also some surfaces/situations that are simply not optimal for these types of product. ….especially when you’re talking about old, faded, oxidized finishes. Unless restored prior to application, I have never had as good of a result with a sealant as I would have with a “restorative” protectant/dressing. I mentioned this before, but I really liked Wolfgang Fuzion for this. It is a WOWO (wipe on, wipe off) paste that doesn’t need to be left on after application (you immediately wipe it off). It goes on buttery smooth and comes off just as easy without streaking. It also doesn’t stain trim or leave a white residue in crevices. It worked well even on some textures I was unsure of. The downside is the cost (but that’s not to say there are not others that perform similarly for less). ….and then there are the newer nano/semi-perm/permanent coating like the C4, ETR and Opti-Coat I mentioned. Those are definitely products I can see using more often going forward (at least in my case).