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Old 09-26-2011, 06:59 PM   #1
f575gtc
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Default Collonite 845 as final top sealant and wax?

Does anyone here use Collonite 845 as the final top layer of wax as well as the sealant?

I bought the 845 as a sealant to use in the winter and never put another coat of wax over it for shine, on the bottle it states that 845 is a great insulator but will bring out the colors and create a great shine.

I usually follow these steps

spray with iron x
rinse
Wash with Meguiars NXT
rinse
Clay
rinse
Wash second time with NXT
rinse
dry car off
wipe down with pre wax cleanser
apply Meguiars ultimate polish, and wipe
apply Meguiars glaze and wipe
apply #845 if before winter
or Meguiars Professional Yellow Wax if in spring to summer.

should I be applying meguiars yellow wax over the #845?
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:30 PM   #2
ChrisKwan
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I don't think you would need to use a "pre wax cleaner" if you are going to polish, as the polish will remove all old wax. The only time you would need to use "pre wax cleaner" is when you want to wax your car but not do a polish, like: wash, clay, pre cleaner, wax.

Well, thats what I got from my research. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in.
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Old 09-26-2011, 07:31 PM   #3
ChrisKwan
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oh, and I would just use 845 as a last step protection for the winter and nothing on top or below it.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:14 AM   #4
csullivan
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You own a white car.

Wax it and forget it.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:19 AM   #5
IIdiceII
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people really go over the top sometimes with these pre-wax cleaners and three washes etc.

wax ur car with 10 different waxes and you wont notice a difference between any of them 95% of the time.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:48 AM   #6
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f575gtc View Post
Does anyone here use Collonite 845 as the final top layer of wax as well as the sealant?

I bought the 845 as a sealant to use in the winter and never put another coat of wax over it for shine, on the bottle it states that 845 is a great insulator but will bring out the colors and create a great shine.
Keep in mind that the majority of your end result will be in the prep. An exception might be if you were using an LSP (last step product; wax/sealant) with heavy fillers or other components meant to improve the appearance of blemishes in the finish. ….but the result is usually short-lived.

In this case, I agree with Dice and really would suggest sticking with one product (chances are the difference will be hardly noticeable or at least short-term). There is really no need to over-complicate things. However, if it’s the “look” you don’t like with the Collinite, there are a myriad of other capable sealants available to choose from. It really depends on what you are looking for in a product. …..what characteristics are most important to you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by f575gtc View Post
I usually follow these steps

spray with iron x
rinse
Wash with Meguiars NXT
rinse
Clay
rinse
Wash second time with NXT
rinse
dry car off
wipe down with pre wax cleanser
apply Meguiars ultimate polish, and wipe
apply Meguiars glaze and wipe
apply #845 if before winter
or Meguiars Professional Yellow Wax if in spring to summer.

should I be applying meguiars yellow wax over the #845?
….a few notes:

1. I would ditch the prewax cleaner if you’re going to polish (as ChrisKwan mentioned). If removing old product is your concern, the Iron-X, clay and polish will likely take care of that.

2. Meguiars Ultimate Polish contains a lot of polishing oils that can act as fillers. The glaze may not be necessary depending on your result with the UP.

3. Not all LSP’s play well to glazes or other products that “leave something behind”. I haven’t really done enough experimenting with Collinite to say how well it gets along with other products like this but it’s something to consider (i.e. characteristics like longevity, durability, adhesion, etc. can be affected).

4. I would strongly suggest taping off a test panel after your final wash (before polishing and applying your LSP). Use this area to test and assess the effectiveness of your products. For example, using painters tape, create a ~1’ x 2’ section on a selected panel of the car. Next, polish the area with just the UP until the desired result is achieved. Once completed, wipe the area down and place a strip of tape down the middle making ~ two 1’ x 1’ squares. On one side, apply the glaze. Once completed, remove the tape (you may need to do a light wipe down with a quick detailer) and then assess the areas. These sharp borders will help provide a nice contrast between the untreated areas of the panel, the section polished with just the UP alone and the area where you use the UP and the glaze. If you see enough of a difference that makes you think using the glaze is warranted, then use it. ….the same process can be used when comparing your LSP choices, etc. The key is to check/assess often as you go. Use good lighting and/or periodically pull the vehicle into direct sunlight to observe your progress.
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:47 PM   #7
1RandomW
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I have a newbie question here:
My car is almost 9 months old is it safe to use polish now ?
I see a bunch of people with '11 cars and they use polish, I'm curious what is the "standard" time that is safe for a new car to be polished ?
Thanks,
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:04 PM   #8
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RandomW View Post
I have a newbie question here:
My car is almost 9 months old is it safe to use polish now ?
I see a bunch of people with '11 cars and they use polish, I'm curious what is the "standard" time that is safe for a new car to be polished ?
Thanks,
….what specifically is your concern regarding polishing a new car vs. an older one assuming it’s warranted in both cases (to remove blemishes from the finish)?
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:21 AM   #9
1RandomW
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Well a car that is 1 year old generally speaking, I'm assuming it shouldn't need to be polished but I see a lot of people doing it. Now if you treat your car like crap I can image that a car that is even 3-4 months old can look like crap and you can polish it then.
That's why I was asking a broad question.
Like I stated earlier I don't know much about detailing that's why I'm here to learn.
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:00 AM   #10
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RandomW View Post
Well a car that is 1 year old generally speaking, I'm assuming it shouldn't need to be polished but I see a lot of people doing it. Now if you treat your car like crap I can image that a car that is even 3-4 months old can look like crap and you can polish it then.
That's why I was asking a broad question.
Like I stated earlier I don't know much about detailing that's why I'm here to learn.
When it comes to “needing” to polish, age really has little to do with it. The wrong tools, techniques or products can destroy a new, pristine finish within minutes. ….not to mention scenarios where the vehicle is exposed to certain environmental conditions, contaminants, water spotting from sprinklers, etc. Personally, I have yet to bring home a new car that couldn’t do with some level of prep (including correction).

The answer to your question (“when do I polish”) is just as simple.….…..“only if needed and/or depending on your goals”. This is true for many of the topics discussed in detailing. The key is to understand what each of these products, tools and processes do. ….then assess your situation, determine your goals and then decide.


For example….

QUESTION: ”should I clay?
ANSWER: Well, if you know how clay works (basically, it helps remove above-surface surface contamination), then the answer should also be just as clear….. “If you have above-surface contamination you want to get rid of, yes.

QUESTION: ”should I polish?
ANSWER: Knowing (in the most basic sense) that polishes are typically geared toward helping the user remove blemishes, scratches, marring, etc. in the paint, the simple answer would be….. “Yes, if your finish has these types of defects and your goal is to try to remove them

The following link is a collection of articles, videos, etc. I put together a couple of years back to help in these types of situations. It is broken down into common detailing topics so you don’t need to dig through all of it (only the parts you are currently interested in). I hope that helps:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1877117
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Old 09-29-2011, 01:10 AM   #11
bri_n_m
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ive used it. it seemed a bit greasy and i didn't use it again. my car is black.

i've been using this lately and hands down my favorite of any sealant:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/blackfire-paint-protection.html?productid=blackfire-paint-protection&channelid=FROOG
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:37 PM   #12
BraveSTi
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Collinite is a good winter "sealer wax".. I use it and it brings out a rich gloss, but the shine doesn't last that long, however seemed to protect the paint a bit. I also started using Collinite Super Doublecoat Auto Wax(No. 476s)after the 845 and WOWSERS now I'm impressed! Try it You'll like it!
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:10 PM   #13
f575gtc
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SWP is a PITA to get a shine out of...

this is after Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, Meguiar's Showroom Glaze, and Collonite 845 to top it off.
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Old 10-01-2011, 02:59 PM   #14
NCHornet
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I only use Rejex now, by far the very best product I have found. All my vehicles actually stay clean longer. Try it you will see.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:19 AM   #15
1RandomW
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Thanks for the help Kean
Now can someone explain me what is the difference between Meguiar's Ultimate Polish & Meguiar's Showroom Glaze (polish), aren't they both polish ? Am I missing something
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Old 10-02-2011, 03:43 PM   #16
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RandomW View Post
Thanks for the help Kean
Now can someone explain me what is the difference between Meguiar's Ultimate Polish & Meguiar's Showroom Glaze (polish), aren't they both polish ? Am I missing something
....do you mean Show Car Glaze (#7 IIRC)? If so the difference would be that #7 is simply a heavy oil-laden, non abrasive product meant to deepen the look of finishes and possible help conceal minor imperfections. While UP also has a heavy concentration of polishing oils that may have a similar effect, it is abrasive and is meant to help correct scratches/imperfections in your finish by abrading the clearcoat.

#7 is an old formula that really hasn't changed much (if I'm not mistaken) since the single stage days (although it is perfectly safe on modern clearcoats). It will provide no protection and you will need to use a wax/sealant to top it off. ....making sure whatever it is you choose doesn't have compatibility issues with the glaze.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:52 PM   #17
1RandomW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
....do you mean Show Car Glaze (#7 IIRC)? If so the difference would be that #7 is simply a heavy oil-laden, non abrasive product meant to deepen the look of finishes and possible help conceal minor imperfections. While UP also has a heavy concentration of polishing oils that may have a similar effect, it is abrasive and is meant to help correct scratches/imperfections in your finish by abrading the clearcoat.

#7 is an old formula that really hasn't changed much (if I'm not mistaken) since the single stage days (although it is perfectly safe on modern clearcoats). It will provide no protection and you will need to use a wax/sealant to top it off. ....making sure whatever it is you choose doesn't have compatibility issues with the glaze.
You rock Kean
I was confused because the Show car glaze on the bottom of the label it says : "Pure Polish for a deep gloss shine" so I thought it was a regular polish ?
Now what wax (Meguiar's) would you recommend that would be compatible with the Show car glaze that would be available at the Autozone/Autoparts.
Thank you for all your help Kean
Rob
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:50 AM   #18
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RandomW View Post
I was confused because the Show car glaze on the bottom of the label it says : "Pure Polish for a deep gloss shine" so I thought it was a regular polish ?
….I know. It get’s really confusing sometimes considering these terms are not exactly “standardized” in the industry. I say this a lot but this is one of the reasons I like to judge products based on their own characteristics/performance rather than automatically clumping them into a generalized category.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RandomW View Post
Now what wax (Meguiar's) would you recommend that would be compatible with the Show car glaze that would be available at the Autozone/Autoparts.
Thank you for all your help Kean
Rob
Without having any recent experience with #7 (I used it many years ago) and considering you’re looking for an OTC solution, I would probably try to stick with Meguiars products although other waxes/sealants may not have an issue. I’m taking a stab here but I’m guessing something like their carnauba paste might work rather well although I do recall hearing folks using a more modern sealant like NXT with some success. Although its no guarantee, I would read the product instructions either way just to make sure it doesn’t state something like “needs to be applied to a clean surface”, etc.

I just did a quick search and came up with a few links on the subject that might help. ….Mike Phillips used to be with Meguiars and is now with Autogeek. He is pretty knowledgeable and for the most part, I think his advice is sound:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-phillips.html
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...car-glaze.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...car-glaze.html

You may want to do some quick searches of your own as well.
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Old 10-04-2011, 12:10 AM   #19
1RandomW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kean View Post
….I know. It get’s really confusing sometimes considering these terms are not exactly “standardized” in the industry. I say this a lot but this is one of the reasons I like to judge products based on their own characteristics/performance rather than automatically clumping them into a generalized category.

Without having any recent experience with #7 (I used it many years ago) and considering you’re looking for an OTC solution, I would probably try to stick with Meguiars products although other waxes/sealants may not have an issue. I’m taking a stab here but I’m guessing something like their carnauba paste might work rather well although I do recall hearing folks using a more modern sealant like NXT with some success. Although its no guarantee, I would read the product instructions either way just to make sure it doesn’t state something like “needs to be applied to a clean surface”, etc.

I just did a quick search and came up with a few links on the subject that might help. ….Mike Phillips used to be with Meguiars and is now with Autogeek. He is pretty knowledgeable and for the most part, I think his advice is sound:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-phillips.html
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...car-glaze.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...car-glaze.html

You may want to do some quick searches of your own as well.
Thank you once again Kean,
I really appreciate your help. Based on the articles that you posted the links for I decided to go with the Deep Crystal Polish or the #80 Hand Polish over the #7.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:30 AM   #20
Kean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1RandomW View Post
Thank you once again Kean,
I really appreciate your help. Based on the articles that you posted the links for I decided to go with the Deep Crystal Polish or the #80 Hand Polish over the #7.
Well, I didn't read through those entire articles but if that is what Mike is recommending, I apologize for providing the links.

IIRC, DCP is essentially the same as #7 while #80 (using a quick search) apparently has some relatively light cutting/cleaning action. The former would be basically redundant (IMO) while the #80 (if applied over the #7) would likely remove some if not all of the existing product on the surface. In either case I believe it would be a waste of time. I would stick with one of the three and then go straight to a wax/sealant. While I know Meguiars calls them "pure polishes", #7 and DCP are essentially "glazes" while #80 might be considered a polish with glaze-like characteristics. ....in the general sense of the terms. This generalized flow chart might help (courtesy of Autogeek):

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Old 10-09-2011, 04:31 PM   #21
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