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Old 09-28-2011, 08:47 PM   #26
nicknasser713
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In the case of oil lost, I'm not sure of that other than my guess being that the motor isn't completely worn In. Without the proper piston ring wear in oil loss should be expected. I know royal purple makes a synthetic brake in oil which would be what would use with such low mileage. And I do general use royal purple. And there is such a thing in the case of a new engine as too well lubricated that was my only point.
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Old 09-28-2011, 11:42 PM   #27
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FWIW I consume about half a quart every 3000 miles.
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, 12000 miles.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:03 AM   #28
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penzoil
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanguines View Post
Hey,

How much oil is normal to be consumed? I'm at 30xx miles on my 11 WRX. I dropped the factory fill at 500 miles and added RP 5w40. 2500 miles later I'm about half a quart low, or the difference from F on the dipstick to a little below halfway down.

Is this about normal? Should I be concerned?
I have had a 2002 WRX, 2004 STI, and (2) 2007 STI's they all went through about a half a quart of oil between changes.
On the other hand I have had two different Legacys (non turbo) and they didnt loose a drop between changes. I think its a turbo car thing. thats my opinion.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:10 PM   #30
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Not suprised at oil consumption, its bound to happen dependant on your oil change intervals,mainly on turbo models though, they will all eventually burn oil earlier than you would think....With an NA burning oil......id have to say you r F"N that car up hard to make that happen......
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanguines View Post
I mostly took it easy. A couple runs to 6k, as suggested by http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm, but nothing ridiculous. After 1000 miles, it was game on, although I still don't beat on it badly.

your my kind of guy!! Mine was changed at 200. ive followed him for years on every motor ive owned and zero issues with oil! the semi hard break in will wear the cross hatch pattern correctly because the piston rings expand correctly. a light break in will bend the cross hatch marks over and not file them down. oil cant flow in the micro channels providing proper lubrication and poor compression will result along with giving the oil a free passage to the combustion chamber.

why your 1/2 quart down i dont know besides if you take corners hard you will be! when the motor and gravity tilts to one side from a high G turn, oil will blast out of the valve vent on the tilt side and your inlet, turbo, TMIC, manifold and then combustion chamber will gobble it up and burn it off.

you MUST have an AOS on these cars!!!! i say AOS because it will put the expelled oil back into the block vs a catch can that will never put it back in. a catch can can be used but you have to dump it and refill your oil every now and then. If you’re a drag racer you shouldn’t see any oil loss at all.

As for my .02 on the synthetic from the factory I think it was a bad idea! The turbo seals and everything else doesn’t need that kind of oil till about 1000 miles. I have an AOS and I have oil in my turbo/TMIC/manifold. The only place it can come from is the turbo. My 09 never had a drop in it. . also 1000 mile first oil change is stupid on these cars because we have them damn oil screens in 2 banjo bolts. you can and will clog them over time. to the guy that said 7500 oil changes your nuts. subi used to have 7500 miles till motors started popping from clogged oil screens. now we are all at 3750!

For 36k on my 09 I used redline 5w30 and im using it now on my 11. You cannot touch redline on paper!!! The high levels of molybdenum, zinc and phosphorus which are your micro lubricants are the highest ive ever seen. This is on paper though. Will we lose oil for some reason and need those levels of micro lube? 99% of us probable not but im happy I have them just in case.

Next oil change I think ill try RL 5w40 and see if I can cut down on the leaking turbo.
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:22 PM   #32
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im running castrol full synthetic 5w30 with no consumption issues noticed. im at about 4300 miles
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:10 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit

your my kind of guy!! Mine was changed at 200. ive followed him for years on every motor ive owned and zero issues with oil! the semi hard break in will wear the cross hatch pattern correctly because the piston rings expand correctly. a light break in will bend the cross hatch marks over and not file them down. oil cant flow in the micro channels providing proper lubrication and poor compression will result along with giving the oil a free passage to the combustion chamber.

why your 1/2 quart down i dont know besides if you take corners hard you will be! when the motor and gravity tilts to one side from a high G turn, oil will blast out of the valve vent on the tilt side and your inlet, turbo, TMIC, manifold and then combustion chamber will gobble it up and burn it off.

you MUST have an AOS on these cars!!!! i say AOS because it will put the expelled oil back into the block vs a catch can that will never put it back in. a catch can can be used but you have to dump it and refill your oil every now and then. If you’re a drag racer you shouldn’t see any oil loss at all.

As for my .02 on the synthetic from the factory I think it was a bad idea! The turbo seals and everything else doesn’t need that kind of oil till about 1000 miles. I have an AOS and I have oil in my turbo/TMIC/manifold. The only place it can come from is the turbo. My 09 never had a drop in it. . also 1000 mile first oil change is stupid on these cars because we have them damn oil screens in 2 banjo bolts. you can and will clog them over time. to the guy that said 7500 oil changes your nuts. subi used to have 7500 miles till motors started popping from clogged oil screens. now we are all at 3750!

For 36k on my 09 I used redline 5w30 and im using it now on my 11. You cannot touch redline on paper!!! The high levels of molybdenum, zinc and phosphorus which are your micro lubricants are the highest ive ever seen. This is on paper though. Will we lose oil for some reason and need those levels of micro lube? 99% of us probable not but im happy I have them just in case.

Next oil change I think ill try RL 5w40 and see if I can cut down on the leaking turbo.
You can touch Red Line on paper with Motul 300V. The Red Line 5W-40 doesn't have moly. Email them and Dave will confirm this. Use the 10W-40 if you want moly or mix in a quart of the 40 weight racing oil.

-Dennis
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:52 AM   #34
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Isn't 300v racing only though? So it's not as good. A vender on another forum ran a Motul and tried for 3000 miles and BOOM! Pretty sure it was 300v.

Why would they take 1 item out of only 1 product?
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:12 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit
Isn't 300v racing only though? So it's not as good. A vender on another forum ran a Motul and tried for 3000 miles and BOOM! Pretty sure it was 300v.

Why would they take 1 item out of only 1 product?
I doubt that was the fault of 300V. No, it's not a racing only oil and I don't know why a lot of people think it is. It's similar in formulation to Red Line's street oils and has a good amount of detergents/dispersants and a high TBN. Perfect for the street!

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2107039

-Dennis
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:05 AM   #36
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just checked his build, him, the builder, and i believe i saw Motul who reps him, all 3 stated it was 100% the 300v that caused the issue at 2500 miles. it is a racing only oil, not used for the street.

start on page 88-89. http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php...5189.1320.html
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:52 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit
just checked his build, him, the builder, and i believe i saw Motul who reps him, all 3 stated it was 100% the 300v that caused the issue at 2500 miles. it is a racing only oil, not used for the street.

start on page 88-89. http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php...5189.1320.html
Look at what 7L said a few posts down. There is no direct evidence that 300v shears down in 2500 miles (or the 500 miles that someone else in that thread stated) nor is there any reason to point the finger at the oil for the failure. He has no UOA to prove, and neither does anyone else. In fact, theres no supporting evidence at all to be able to state that its not fit for street use.

If anything 300v would be a BETTER street oil than most, due to the high TBN, and the levels of detergents/dispersants, especially in our platforms.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:23 PM   #38
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I run 5w-30 amsoil diesel oil in my 09, no oil consumption. 14k miles
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Old 10-08-2011, 08:59 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Fast4U1DAY

Look at what 7L said a few posts down. There is no direct evidence that 300v shears down in 2500 miles (or the 500 miles that someone else in that thread stated) nor is there any reason to point the finger at the oil for the failure. He has no UOA to prove, and neither does anyone else. In fact, theres no supporting evidence at all to be able to state that its not fit for street use.

If anything 300v would be a BETTER street oil than most, due to the high TBN, and the levels of detergents/dispersants, especially in our platforms.
Thanks because I didn't even bother reading that.

The fact is 300V is not a racing only oil and anyone that says so has no idea what they're talking about. Just look at the VOA that I posted. Oh sorry, most people do not like data. Only misinformed opinions.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 10-08-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:06 PM   #40
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I have 0 oil consumption on my 09 FXT and my 11 WRX. I did break both of them in and have been using only subbie synthetic. Come to think of it our old 98 impreza, 02 Wrx and 06 STI (may she rest in piece) never consumed oil :/
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Old 10-08-2011, 09:09 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie

Thanks because I didn't even bother reading that. The fact is 300V is not a racing only oil and anyone that says so has no idea what they're talking about. Just look at the VOA that I posted. Oh sorry, most people do not like data. Only misinformed opinions.

-Dennis
I actually love hard data like this. It is direct proof that some people just shouldn't open their mouths about something they know nothing about (and I am no tribologist, just a curious consumer who just wants the best for his ride, and this is right up there). I may not know everything there is to know about oil, but based on reading several of your posts and UOA's, I am learning A LOT!
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:51 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
your my kind of guy!! Mine was changed at 200. ive followed him for years on every motor ive owned and zero issues with oil! the semi hard break in will wear the cross hatch pattern correctly because the piston rings expand correctly. a light break in will bend the cross hatch marks over and not file them down. oil cant flow in the micro channels providing proper lubrication and poor compression will result along with giving the oil a free passage to the combustion chamber.

why your 1/2 quart down i dont know besides if you take corners hard you will be! when the motor and gravity tilts to one side from a high G turn, oil will blast out of the valve vent on the tilt side and your inlet, turbo, TMIC, manifold and then combustion chamber will gobble it up and burn it off.

you MUST have an AOS on these cars!!!! i say AOS because it will put the expelled oil back into the block vs a catch can that will never put it back in. a catch can can be used but you have to dump it and refill your oil every now and then. If you’re a drag racer you shouldn’t see any oil loss at all.

As for my .02 on the synthetic from the factory I think it was a bad idea! The turbo seals and everything else doesn’t need that kind of oil till about 1000 miles. I have an AOS and I have oil in my turbo/TMIC/manifold. The only place it can come from is the turbo. My 09 never had a drop in it. . also 1000 mile first oil change is stupid on these cars because we have them damn oil screens in 2 banjo bolts. you can and will clog them over time. to the guy that said 7500 oil changes your nuts. subi used to have 7500 miles till motors started popping from clogged oil screens. now we are all at 3750!

For 36k on my 09 I used redline 5w30 and im using it now on my 11. You cannot touch redline on paper!!! The high levels of molybdenum, zinc and phosphorus which are your micro lubricants are the highest ive ever seen. This is on paper though. Will we lose oil for some reason and need those levels of micro lube? 99% of us probable not but im happy I have them just in case.

Next oil change I think ill try RL 5w40 and see if I can cut down on the leaking turbo.
I know what a catch can is but whats a AOS? Thanks
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:09 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beecha91

I know what a catch can is but whats a AOS? Thanks
http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=191

-Dennis
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:31 PM   #44
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I know what a catch can is but whats a AOS? Thanks
AIR OIL seperator lol
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:08 AM   #45
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ive been using RP 5w30 since 2500 miles or so, I think im a little over 8000 now. I don't seem to be using much if any.

I once saw RP do pretty well on one of those oil comparison tests but I can't remember where I read it
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:18 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celery GT-5
ive been using RP 5w30 since 2500 miles or so, I think im a little over 8000 now. I don't seem to be using much if any.

I once saw RP do pretty well on one of those oil comparison tests but I can't remember where I read it
The test you're referring to is a Timken machine test. It was designed to test gear lubes, but is not very useful for testing engine oils. You can google that. RP 5W-30 sometimes shows low wear on uoa's, but it shears to a 20 grade very quickly.

-Dennis
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:21 AM   #47
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http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/dyno-test.php

this one only put it 7 out of 1o i guess :/ maybe ill just use oem oil
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:10 AM   #48
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Resurrecting this old thread...

I no longer have access to appropriate facilities to work on my car, so I've been having my local dealership change my oil - they offer a good deal for military. Anyways, I'm about 3000 miles into my current oil change from them, and I'm down to below half on the dipstick again. A bit over 20,000 miles are on the clock overall. There's no leaking that I can see, and no puddling where I park. Should this be of concern? I've also noticed a pretty sharp drop in gas mileage over the last 4 months. I drive pretty conservatively, and normally I would make it well over 300 miles before gas light (which is about 13 gallons used IME). Now I'm typically hitting that mark around 280. What's the deal?
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:14 AM   #49
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the sharp drop in mpg is called winter, losing half the dipstick in 3k isn't ideal but its not really considered a problem..just top it off.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:47 AM   #50
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We have brutal winters here... - 30s - 20 s...

Im using amsoil 5w30 and the dip stick lvl doesnt move one bit after 3000 miles..

What oil is that dealer putting in ?

Oil seems to play a big role in EJs...
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