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Old 08-03-2002, 09:57 PM   #1
m3eater
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Default hid problems

k who here has the jdm hid lights or just an hid kit in general. if so what brand, model, and k do you have (4200, 6000, etc...).. i have the sti jdm headlights and im already going on my fourth set of lights. it is i either have a problem with my ballst or the actually bulb begins to burn out. this really sucks becuase i was driving pretty fast on a side street last night with lots of turns and my head lights went out. i know i should have immediatly put on my brights but i wasnt thinking of that for some stupid reason and luckily came to a halting stop. i shut my car off, turned it back on and everything worked again. today just my left light is running and i have to actually turn the light switch on and off a few times before they both go on again. lastly, ive noticed that one of the lights burn more blue then the other one. does anyone have this problem? can anyone give me some advice rather then tell me jsut not to get them? and let me know what works for you before i dive in and get another set. thanks
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Old 08-03-2002, 10:08 PM   #2
Mulder
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It sounds like you may have a problem with the wiring. If there is excessive voltage drop on either the positive or ground side the ballasts may not start reliably or they may flicker or go out. Make sure your wiring is adequate before you condemn the ballasts or bulbs and replace them needlessly.
If you install a brand new or known good kit and it is wired properly there should be no problems.
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Old 08-03-2002, 10:36 PM   #3
m3eater
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they have been re-wired twice already and these lasted me at least two months. all the wiring seems to be good, the bulbs seem to have this brown film developing on the inside cause the color of the hid to not be as bright white/blue as its supposed to? would wiring have to do with that too? if so any other recomendations
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Old 08-03-2002, 10:52 PM   #4
vsigma
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hmm.. check your lamp housings themselves.. see if water is getting in somehow..
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Old 08-03-2002, 11:33 PM   #5
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Connection between the bulb and power plug is not seating tight/snug/securely. I get that on my auxilaries after some pretty bumpy ride.

-Dave
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Old 08-04-2002, 12:49 AM   #6
m3eater
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nope its not a water problem nor a connection problem, i actually checked those tonight and they seem to be ok. the only thing i can think of is that i got a bunch of lemon pairs or maybe something to do about the wiring. ill keep trying till thier perfect
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:44 AM   #7
25RS
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have you disabled your DRL's yet? active DRL's may cause your HID's to act weird. i have found unplugging the DRL connector behind the glove box to be more reliable than the under-the-hood method. hope this helps!

Last edited by 25RS; 08-28-2010 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:53 AM   #8
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I have Focuz HID 4800K. Not a problem like you mentioned. However, my lights are weird, when I first turn them on from cold, they look bluish, then gradually changing to white instead. I would prefer the lights to stay blue.
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Old 08-04-2002, 10:26 AM   #9
tranjo
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Quote:
Originally posted by 25RS
have you disabled your DRL's yet? active DRL's may cause your HID's to act weird. i have found unplugging the DRL connector behind the glove box to be more reliable than the under-the-hood method. hope this helps!

Jon
SQC#002
Why would DRL'S cause HID's to act weird? shouldn't be an issue.
I would pull out the voltmeter and start over from scratch in the wiring. Check all grounds, continuity, voltage dropage, etc.
Check everything, The fact that you said that the lights were fine for 2months however would concern me.
I think once you eliminate a wiring prob. (again, go with a new reliable set), see what happens. what manufacturer are you using?
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Old 08-04-2002, 12:47 PM   #10
25RS
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it was an issue for the 8 or so JDM + HID installations i have done. just giving the guy a direction to pinpoint his problem. still believe its the DRL but thats just me speaking from experience.

Last edited by 25RS; 08-28-2010 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 08-04-2002, 01:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dealer Xing
I have Focuz HID 4800K. Not a problem like you mentioned. However, my lights are weird, when I first turn them on from cold, they look bluish, then gradually changing to white instead. I would prefer the lights to stay blue.
The Focuz lights will not stay blue, they are only blue when they are cold. You need a lower wattage kit to stay blue, because the blues are colder and produce less light.

Get a kit from hidkits.com if you want blue, they'll let you crank their ballasts down to 25W which is nice and blue. Again though, blue means not as bright.

Daniel
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Old 08-04-2002, 02:36 PM   #12
Mulder
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If there is a wiring problem causing the ballasts to receive insufficient power so they don't start properly or the bulbs cut out, the bulbs could be damaged as a result and go bad prematurely.
I agree with tranjo's suggestion to get out the voltmeter. Measure the voltage right at the ballast and see what is actually getting there, especially when the lights are first turned on. This is when the draw is highest and any serious drop will be apparent. The stock switched ground system does not really have sufficient current carrying capacity to support the startup draw of HIDs and I highly recommend not using it. As long as the high and low beams are completely separate (I have Morettes and they are, I believe the JDMs are the same), you can wire them the way I did- connect the positive wire from the factory headlights to the positive side of the ballast, and connect the negative side directly to ground (either chassis or preferably the battery negative terminal). This will completely bypass the factory ground switching system and the HIDs should work reliably. The low beams will be on whenever the light switch is on and will remain on with the high beams which is what you want anyway.
As for the DRLs I don't know if they can cause this problem but I do know that when I added the HIDs to my Morettes the DRL function returned even though I had pulled the resistor module under the hood. With regular halogens in the Morettes the DRLs were off but with the HIDs they came back. After disconnecting the control module they were gone for good. I have been over the wiring diagrams in the factory manual but I cannot figure out why this happens with HIDs. I suggest pulling the main DRL control module to eliminate any potential issues.
If you're still having problems by next weekend come to the Queens meet/BBQ and we will descend on your car like flies and check it out for you.
As for the 4800K thing, this is a relatively low color temp. for HIDs and will be more white then blue, which I prefer anyway. The really blue looking ones are up around 6K or higher. Regardless of whether you like the look or not you get more usable light at the lower temp.
It is normal for the lights to look blue when first turned on and then go to white as the gas in the bulbs warms up.
Hope this helps.
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Old 08-04-2002, 04:24 PM   #13
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Mulder - I hear what you are saying but disagree about the grounding. The Sti model in Japan comes with HId's (6000 kelvin units) from the factory, and the car uses exactly the same wiring as the US spec car. Granted, I'm no electrical engineer, but nevertheless, same system is the same system.

Jon's idea about the DRL is interesting, as I don't think Frank has his disabled yet...easy enough to do under the dash though (one wire), so Frank, swing b one night and we'll look into it. We can also switch the grounds too, which is simple to do.

I think this comes down strictly to product....this is an issue with many, not all, but many, aftermarket HID kits. The one in my GVR4 is made by the same people as Frank's, although mine is only a 4800 k kit, and I have yet to have a problem.

The fact that Frank's is having problems again and his DRL's are hooked up is interesting and certainly worth looking into further.

As for wiring, I cannot see it being a wiring issue at all...these simply plug into factory harnesses, so there is no wiring to be done per say.

adam
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Old 08-04-2002, 04:40 PM   #14
Mulder
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
Mulder - I hear what you are saying but disagree about the grounding. The Sti model in Japan comes with HId's (6000 kelvin units) from the factory, and the car uses exactly the same wiring as the US spec car. Granted, I'm no electrical engineer, but nevertheless, same system is the same system.
That's interesting. I have no familiarity with the JDMs so I defer to you on the info, but is it possible that there is an additional relay someplace on those to take the load? The problem I see with HIDs on the factory wiring is that the ground side has to handle all the current for both lights, and at initial startup the HIDs can draw around 15 amps apiece. Yes it does drop down to a lower than OEM light current once they are started but that's a big surge to be putting through the headlight switch. I don't see the contacts lasting a very long time this way.
Even with just halogens this ground switching system is barely adequate, when I first installed the Morettes using the factory wiring I measured a 1.5 volt drop on the ground side. When I fixed this the lights got noticeably brighter.
Anyway by wiring my HIDs directly to ground and relying on the switched positive to turn them on and off I have completely eliminated this problem. In addition by doing this I have also eliminated the problem of the HIDs flickering when switching between low and high beams.
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Old 08-04-2002, 05:07 PM   #15
m3eater
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thanks adam and i def will come by, i am almost positive this is a product problem and i would like to know that adam has done everyhting possible to help me out with these problems. he has spent a lot of time on my lights and i appreciate that. thanks adam! and thanks for everyone else is is posting thier aadvive, i'll keep everyone updated
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Old 08-05-2002, 06:09 PM   #16
Z1 Performance
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Mulder - good question..one night when I am bored I'll break out the JDM service daigrams and look for the wiring..pehaps there is another fuse/relay there.
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