Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday July 12, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Subaru Conversions

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-06-2012, 11:46 AM   #76
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

ya, i really like this radiator solution. i'm going to have Ron Davis custom make radiator similar to the above and use SPAL puller fans. lines for now will go under the car. i'll try to enough keep room behind it for a sufficiently large gas for road trips. at least 10 gals preferably for a 250 miles driving. we'll see, its the rest of the car was pretty straight forward and non destructive, i don't want to cut holes then go "oops, i've changed my mind."
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 04:20 PM   #77
ambrynmc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 301122
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Default

Hey Ron, If you are going to go to the expense of getting a custom radiator, then you might as well go "really custom" The guy that did the Audi engine in a bug had a radiator made like this

Made by: Custom Aluminum Radiators in Kingman, AZ 1-866-258-6723

The other option of exhausting under the car would be to exhaust up ala GT40 (or a bunch of other current supercars). Like kcpaz did except reverse


Maybe?
ambrynmc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 09:26 PM   #78
RSti_Spyder
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 120907
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: One and a Half Miles up...
Vehicle:
2012 Meyers Manx #85
1400 Lb 930 Trans 04 STi

Default

I would also consider Griffin Radiators. They build what ever size you need, put the fittings where you want, number of cores you want and the welds are incredible. I have them on several projects and some have been running without issue for 15 years. They also build a lot of radiators for other people so you may end up with one anyway.

Thanks
RSti_Spyder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2012, 01:52 PM   #79
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

small update:
had to custom fabricate a bunch of stuff and didn't want to mig everything. decided to pick up a Miller Tig so i could do the aluminum. Nice little unit btw, highly recommend for a hobbiest.


Couldn't find a downpipe to work so had to have a custom flange CNC'ed that would work for this turbo. Welded up the tubing for the down pipe to V bands to Coast Fabrication muffler and added WBO2 bung.

Welded up a cracked to hold the radiator up front but had to get rid of the stock gas tank cuz it wouldn't fit. I'll have custom 10-20 gal fuel cell build once I figure out the radiator exhaust and then I'll have an idea of the dimensions I'll need. In the mean time, I'll using a 5 gal cell just so I can start her up and move her around and get on trailer for dyno time.

I've got steel steel tubing running under the car along the pinch seem but need to get radiator hose to connect it to the radiator and the motor, anyone have suggestions of sourcing this by the foot?

here is a vid after months of sitting, no pumping the gas first or waving a magic wand and saying an incantation, gotta love modern engine management

RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2012, 07:35 PM   #80
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

update:
Pulled the prior hard lines off and fabricated new ones from 1.25″ 16 gauge steel and mandrel bends. They hug the underside well. Here is a pic on the passenger side unit. 1.25″. Hose connects to motor to tubing and then tubing and to radiator….well eventually…see video for my make shift radiator to test the rest of the systems.




Video:

I ran it until it came up to temp and the t-stat opened. At the end, the new Walbro fuel pump was makin a weird whine and upon trying to restart, it wouldn’t. On switched power it would still make a noise as it should prior to start but it was a different sound. Hope it’s not dead. I'll mount that ic radiator that was sitting on the tank, in front of the radiator most likely and the Bosch bump as well.



RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 11:04 AM   #81
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

question:

ran motor again for a several min and it just seems like the walbro 255 is struggling and making a really loud wine now and will cut out. using romraider logger and it says running lean at idle. starts at 15 then goes to 22:1 and eventually as it comes to temp just dies

i thought maybe i had a kink in the fuel line from the fuel cell to the pump but its fine. then i thought maybe i need to move the return line to the fuel cell to the top vs near the inlet (which is what i should have done in the first place). so i went to empty the cell using the return line to pump it dry. i disconnected the return line at the motor and discovered no fuel was coming out one switch or even when the motor was running. I'm running all the stock fuel pump regulator and fuel rails. do i have them connected correctly?

fuel into the top two and then the third is the return line

RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #82
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

FAIL!!!
top is feed, middle is return, bottom is fuel vent (???)

at any rate, hooked up return to middle and its running much better. not sure if i cap the "vent" or not. suggestions?
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 02:14 PM   #83
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

I was looking at ambryn's thread on another forum and was able to sorta visualized how the t-stat bypass was routed. I knew i needed the warmed coolant to be circulated to the t-stat via the heater circuit otherwise it wouldnt open.



Looking at the rear of my motor you can see to the far left a black tube exiting around the back of the heads (kinda underneight the white connector), this is the return which goes to the front of the motor and then goes down and to the T-stat housing/waterpump. the supply on most motors would be very close to that same pipe and is connected to the end of the coolant manifold. for some reason mine is actully mid coolant manifold. you can see it just peaking out to the left of the throttle body. i am not running a heater and connecting these 2 pipes in my car is nearly impossible without kinking the hose. the pipe off the coolant manifold is held with a small bolt and with a bit of wiggling comes off. the return was more of a pain without removing the intake manifold! i was going to cut it anyway so i removed the alternator bracket and used a small air grinder to cut it and removed the 2 small crews that held it in place along with the hose connecting it to the water pump.

I cut the feed pipe and reused the ends so it would make a little 90* and rotated up about 45*



with the return already cut, i just added the small end piece so the hose had a place to fasten and clamp.



here they are connected





btw, part of this circuit is a small branch that takes heated coolant to the throttle body and back. i guess this is for really cold climates. i obviously omitted these and just put a cap on the ports on the throttle to keep crap out of it.

hopefully everything flows well now.
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 02:15 PM   #84
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

Hmmm, still wasn't getting flow, ecu said 212* but lines to rad were still cool. Pulled t stat and tried again, same. I can go to front and put water in thru upper rad line and force water thru w hose but not on it's own. Think I need to do water pump
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 05:29 PM   #85
lukeskywrx
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59837
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Arizona
Vehicle:
2004 Spec-C Type RA
What MAF? -Speed Density!

Default

Hey the open source speed density rom works great on the JDM ecu if you want some better engine management control.
lukeskywrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #86
my928s4
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 158412
Join Date: Sep 2007
Default

Awesome thread, some similarities with my project.

Chris
my928s4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2012, 10:42 PM   #87
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

Well, for the hell of it and for my edification, I took the timing belt cover off to check things out and took the tstat housing off and felt inside the water pump for the imellars which seemed fine. Tuned the motor over and I could see the water pump pulley clearly rotating. I reassembled everything and got to figuring out a makeshift manifold from the crossover pipe to the upper radiator hose that I could fill three feet above motor lol, ya I wont post that ghetto rig but it filled and purged the air from radiator. Then hooked it up as normal and topped it off via the turbo tank. Started her up and she slowly, much slower than before, came up to 189* and I could feel the lower radiator line flow warm water so I know it was working perfectly. With that huge radiator the water never rose above 190 even with the fans not yet connected. I think I'm good. Now to run the water air IC water lines to the forward pump and small radiator. Hopefully on the dyno for tuning in he next month.
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2012, 10:43 PM   #88
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

Sent my stock 912 tach into North Hollywood Speedometer and they put in circuitry to convert it to accept the suby's ecu signal, new face with the needle recalibrated its sweep. just hooked it up to the wiring harness and low and behold, it works perfectly and is perfectly calibrated as well per the readout on the laptop via the obd2 adapter.

RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2012, 08:42 PM   #89
LatentWagen
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 50315
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: New York
Vehicle:
0508 Saabaru & specB
Stage: Maintenance

Default

Wow, nice car! And you chose a nice motor too... Probably should've gone to 10 on the tach

I've dreamed about a JDM swap in an 80's or 90's widebody Porsche for quite some time; this is great motivation!
LatentWagen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2012, 07:05 PM   #90
Keenah
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 133754
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: In my house
Vehicle:
1998 RSTi
All blue, all blue baby

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RonW View Post
Sent my stock 912 tach into North Hollywood Speedometer and they put in circuitry to convert it to accept the suby's ecu signal, new face with the needle recalibrated its sweep. just hooked it up to the wiring harness and low and behold, it works perfectly and is perfectly calibrated as well per the readout on the laptop via the obd2 adapter.

Cluster looks so cool!
Keenah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 06:32 PM   #91
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

drove her around town gradually increasing the distance from the house...so i could push her back as i needed lol

main issue is the ecu i reading VERY lean. i welded a bug for my a lc1 wbo2 senosor adjacent to the stock bung just clocked 90*. i ran romraider logger and the lc1 logger on the laptop. the LC1 reading is normal 15:1 idle and 13-18 under light load driving around town. the ecu however says like 22:1. i believe i incorrectly assumed that a wrx wbo2 (denso 234 9011) would be the same voltage output...wrong.

i called Wali up and he had a jdm sti v8 right there and read the pn off of it:
22641 AA191

anyone have an equivalent? not sure where to locate this.
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2012, 06:55 PM   #92
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

ok, just got off the phone w Kent aka kpaz and he has the same jdm spec-c v8 and that had the 22641 AA191 so now Ive got it from 3 sources that this is the correction pn.

now to find one
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 02:55 PM   #93
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

well, having a radiator bleed line is absolutely key in keeping the coolant flowing and air purged. i tried capping the rad and turbo coolant tank after a few drives around town but started getting hot again. put the bleed line back on like its suppose to be stock and it works fine. right now just using home depot reinforced 1/4" clear line but that is only for initial testing. just ordered Aeroquip -4AN Starlite hose and fittings and will swap that in for final placement.

heading to see Ed at Equilibrium who is familiar with subaru JDM motors/ecu's and see what is facility is like and talk about his experience and approach.

took a little test drive in the hills to see how it ran. i have a LC-1 wbo2 connected to the dash gauge and its a tad lean on boost so i'll keep my foot out of it until its tuned for US 91 gas.

anyway, happy forth!

__________________
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 03:12 PM   #94
01Twinturbo
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 317871
Join Date: Apr 2012
Default

Thats awesome! Great build!
01Twinturbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 04:03 PM   #95
geronimo81
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 154586
Join Date: Jul 2007
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: San Ramon
Vehicle:
1996 Turbo Outback
9psi on 91 No EM

Default

That looks like a ton of fun! I bet it is like a big go-kart
geronimo81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 10:43 PM   #96
OTO X58
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 262851
Join Date: Nov 2010
Default

I'm totally jealous of your car! I have a Subaru engine in my 58 bug, and we also put one in my dad's 72 914. But I would kill to get the chance to build a Subaru powered 911 or 912. Especially one as clean as yours!

I'm really digging how clean and simple you kept it, with minimal cutting. Bravo, sir!
OTO X58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 12:39 PM   #97
JdmRacingMotors
NASIOC Vendor
 
Member#: 193311
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Virginia
Default

What a bad boy! Love the vid Ron!
JdmRacingMotors is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 01:22 PM   #98
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OTO X58 View Post
I'm totally jealous of your car! I have a Subaru engine in my 58 bug, and we also put one in my dad's 72 914. But I would kill to get the chance to build a Subaru powered 911 or 912. Especially one as clean as yours!

I'm really digging how clean and simple you kept it, with minimal cutting. Bravo, sir!
Thanks all. Thomas, dude, your 58 build with megasquit is what started me on this path. I was running ms3/ms3x sequential ignition and fuel on my 2270 type4. I actually had contemplated running it on this motor had I not gotten the stock ecu/harness figured out (well actually Brian Keene iwireserves.com rescued me). I love your dads car, very nice build!!! I was referring to his thread many times. I want his suby 5 speed and will try some day to get reverse r/p gear set but that is not he only hurdle with an early 91x sine the 66-68 have a different outer flange, so the 915 shafts won't bolt on. the out flange has corse splines so i cant just swap in 915 one into the trailing arms. I could take a 915 axle and have custom/machine outers splines so early cv can be slid on. Ive actually been also toying with cutting down later model aluminum trailing arms (long wheel base 911) into my short wheel base. then i'd have stronger flanges and have all the modern brake options too. im leaning towards the later. either way, neither are easy or cheap . If u ever ax ur bug in the bay area, let me know, luv to hook up!

Last edited by RonW; 07-06-2012 at 01:35 PM.
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2012, 01:16 AM   #99
RonW
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 103663
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: S.F Bay Area
Vehicle:
1968 Porsche 912
STi v8 Spec-C conversion

Default

Update:
I had a feeling I was gonna run into some issues with my set up if I went straight to the dyno without more testing so I started working with Phatron with some e-tuning to at least get me started. Ultimately I figured out that I didn't have ACVS running and I was overboosting even with the boost controller omitted and just running the actuator spring tension. I spoke with Britain and he had a feeling I didnt have the neutral position switch grounded with turns out I didn't (I did have the speed sensor functional however.) Grounded it and it ran much better. I was overboosting because of restriction in the dp i made and just couldn't get the pressure out due to my poor design. It was either redesign it or install and EWG, i went with the later.

for the twin scroll


tig'ged up


Grimmspeed bracked to lock the IWG closed


ready for testing
RonW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2012, 02:18 PM   #100
Trudd84
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 250706
Join Date: Jun 2010
Chapter/Region: South East
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX
WR Blue

Default

that looks super awesome!!!! Love the car! Its gonna sound crazy!
Trudd84 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
- 2005 STi - 352whp / 400 wtq - 18G on Meth - worksti Proven Power Bragging 68 06-04-2010 12:28 AM
FS:CT - 2005 sti doors, interior, 2005 wrx seats Ctracer911 Complete Car Part-Out 16 06-20-2009 07:42 PM
NJ - 2005 STI - Metalic gray, HKS exhaust, Not abused or raced, MINT - $20500 rustyvegas Private Vehicle 'For Sale' Classifieds 17 09-24-2008 11:15 AM
FS - 2005 STi - White/Gold - SLC ibis RMIC Private Classifieds 5 04-13-2006 12:39 PM
FS - 2005 STi - gauging interest UncleMeat Mid West Subaru Owners Club Forum -- MWSOC 12 09-04-2005 12:52 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.