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Old 11-29-2011, 12:27 PM   #76
SurfGuruJeff
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There are more and more guys on stock blocks between 350-400whp without issues on E85, myself included. I pulled my stock block to put in a built motor, and everything looked remarkably good and was running great when I pulled it at 91k miles.
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Last edited by SurfGuruJeff; 11-29-2011 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:16 PM   #77
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2011 STi spun a rod bearing at 19k miles. Had about 9k miles on it at 340 whp and 350 tq. I had also begun playing w launch control so I wonder if that was part of the issue. Typically on dirt roads to relieve some stress on the engine.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:28 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jockeygolfs View Post
2011 STi spun a rod bearing at 19k miles. Had about 9k miles on it at 340 whp and 350 tq. I had also begun playing w launch control so I wonder if that was part of the issue. Typically on dirt roads to relieve some stress on the engine.
Launch Control is very hard on the internals.

Crystal_Impreza says most engine failures he's seen has been from LC
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:36 PM   #79
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Thanks for the heads up. On the new block I have only done it twice. Looks like I will be learning to launch on my own without LC for now on.
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:12 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfGuruJeff View Post
Launch Control is very hard on the internals.

Crystal_Impreza says most engine failures he's seen has been from LC
Some LCs are worse than others... cobb's cuts fuel so it's not nearly as bad as the standalones that cut spark to back fire and keep the turbo spooled.

I agree with NSFW.

I think 2 things keep an engine lasting,

#1, keeping the turbo in its map... a 20g at 400hp isn't really in the meat of the map anymore. (e85 can make those 50-60% islands do-able but don't push it on 91)

#2 Logging and preventing knock. when you see knock, stop doing what you are doing and figure out why it's knocking. and if you're not logging and you're flogging the vehicle and it just doesn't feel right... don't get pissed and keep your foot in it till it gets better, back off and figure out what's wrong.
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:32 PM   #81
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invest in a good tuner dont be cheap about it
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:34 PM   #82
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lots of info. so far this sight has answered a ton of questions for me!

Last edited by coolerthanafan; 11-19-2012 at 03:20 AM.
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:47 PM   #83
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04 STi, 73k miles, 400whp for 8k miles. I go WOT maybe three times a week but then I just got this car (babied before me as well). Still holding.
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:44 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sti20g
invest in a good tuner dont be cheap about it
What traits make a good tuner ? Would it be reputation and stuff along those lines ?
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:57 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRANKNOOGEN View Post
What traits make a good tuner ? Would it be reputation and stuff along those lines ?
Reputation and track record are about the only criteria you can use.

I'm fairly new to the site, but does NASIOC have a list of reputable tuners by area? I spent the last few years as a user/moderator of Honda-tech and in our Forced Induction forum, we compiled a list of tuners by area and allowed people to share experiences and whatnot. That way people had a quick reference for tuners in their immediate area.
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:48 PM   #86
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Hey guys,

I am ready for a protune and have found a shop here in NH thats sounds pretty good.

As of right now I have a Cobb Turboback, Cobb intake with the box, and HKS BOV.

The parts that just came in and are about to be installed within the next few weeks are PERRIN EL headers, HKS Up pipe, Cobb pulled, grimmspeed boost control solenoid, and the recirc kit for the bov that I should have put on a long time ago.

How does the list sound? Anything else I should know or get? What should I be able to SAFELY get on these to my 2011 WRX Hatch?

Also most importantly, how long can I drive untuned? I may not be able to get it tuned or a few days after the install.
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:00 PM   #87
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Having a torque spike in the 350's range and constantly stabbing the throttle on stock internals is were the problem is. If your gonna play you gotta pay and going above stage 2 your asking for things to wear out faster. Having power this high means you went 18/20g or your on a high reading dyno and you've done every bolt on pro tuned.
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:04 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rjklement15 View Post
Hey guys,

I am ready for a protune and have found a shop here in NH thats sounds pretty good.

As of right now I have a Cobb Turboback, Cobb intake with the box, and HKS BOV.

The parts that just came in and are about to be installed within the next few weeks are PERRIN EL headers, HKS Up pipe, Cobb pulled, grimmspeed boost control solenoid, and the recirc kit for the bov that I should have put on a long time ago.

How does the list sound? Anything else I should know or get? What should I be able to SAFELY get on these to my 2011 WRX Hatch?

Also most importantly, how long can I drive untuned? I may not be able to get it tuned or a few days after the install.
Don't drive it anywhere but to the tuning appointment it's not safe and definitely don't go WOT.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:21 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by killichnakropf View Post
Don't drive it anywhere but to the tuning appointment it's not safe and definitely don't go WOT.
My plans were to drive it home and park it until Its tuning time (30 minute drive) The bcs will not be installed until the car it at the tuner as they agreed to throw it on for $20 with the tune and I know enough not to drive untuned with that particular part installed. Other than that, with the pulley, headers, and up pipe installed, I plan to be very careful.
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:42 PM   #90
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Pushed my sti on a stock block to 400whp. Block lasted 6months until the piston rings started to pass by gases. NO RINGLANDS CRACKWD, to my surprise. Now have a rallispec block
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:05 PM   #91
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Everyone thats has 350+ awhp, are you daily driving your cars? Also, by upgrading the turbo, rods, pistons and other internals, having 350-360 awhp/awtq as a daily driver, will that be pretty reliable with a great tune and regular maintenance? Along with spirited driving and road trips.
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:11 PM   #92
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Depends on how you ask it... i have a td06 20g legacy gt that i daily drive on stock bottom end... but my DD tune isn't 350whp.

Planning on getting an e85 tune as soon as my new injectors show up... then my DD tune will probably whip 350whp...
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Old 12-13-2011, 05:39 PM   #93
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I daily drive 350whp+ but hardly boosting in 15mph avg. speed in traffic. So I assume it's just as safe as stock tune with a protune with this type of driving.

Reminds me of Kevin Hart talking about bodybuilding meatheads that work at T-Mobile customer service answering phones. What a waste lol.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:44 PM   #94
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Ok... well then i probably should not even look at this 09 WRX in my area that's running 365WHP on stock internals...good to know.
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:04 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tricktraxxas3 View Post
Ok... well then i probably should not even look at this 09 WRX in my area that's running 365WHP on stock internals...good to know.
Pro not, but depends on how long they been doing it, and the age of the driver
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:05 AM   #96
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Default 350hp reliability

dude,350hp on a dynojet is possible with a stock motor and you will be blowing the crap out of your poor stock yurbo but as reliability goes.... your piston ring is counting down its time untill it breaks. just be careful and dnt push your car too much and always let it warm up! if you think of of building you engine all you need is CP pistons and your good! (: not that noisy either!
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:23 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru.rivera View Post
Everyone thats has 350+ awhp, are you daily driving your cars? Also, by upgrading the turbo, rods, pistons and other internals, having 350-360 awhp/awtq as a daily driver, will that be pretty reliable with a great tune and regular maintenance? Along with spirited driving and road trips.
I used to DD mine, until I got a disposable Nissan for commuting just to save wear-and-tear on my "real" car. And I still drive it to work once or twice a week on average. My Subaru is what I use for weekends and road trips though.

If regular maintenance includes data logging at least a few times a year, I actually don't think a built motor is necessary. Boost and AFR gauges are good idea too - they're not a substitute for logging but if you give them a glance once in a while that's better than nothing.
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:45 AM   #98
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Question knock?

im a newb what is knock ...what do u mean by knock will kill your rings ?
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Old 12-24-2011, 02:44 PM   #99
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Old 12-24-2011, 06:45 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGTSTi7 View Post
all you need is CP pistons and your good! (: not that noisy either!
I love the way mine sound They can be as noisy as they want!
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