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Old 10-22-2011, 01:48 PM   #1
Meat Supply
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Default help! does this sound like the turbo?

just started today. seems to run okay below boost, but once it gets to boost, the gauge bounces, won't go over 5 psi, and the car surges. let of and it runs just fine. besides the center or front diff being worn out this just started today.

is it turbo? some sort of limp mode because the duty c solenoid is acting up? other than that it seems to run good. i dunno. kinda pissed...207k, car is the old...


edit: took it out for a few miles. seems to run okay still. and even get to boost, sometimes there's a popping sound. is that the wastegate flapping? something popping? also the coolant resevoir is going from low to high.
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Last edited by Meat Supply; 10-22-2011 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:12 PM   #2
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anyone? lots of lookers anyway

took it for one cold run this morning, about 2 miles. acted better, but hesitated once. again, only when i get into boost. coolant levels seemed okay. i added just a little to the turbo coolant res anyway.

the boot that goes from the turbo to the throttle body had a small crack in it, along where it connects to the turbo. is it possible that was leaking under boost and causing that clap/popping sound? wastegate? ****. damn you old cars!!! (207k)
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Old 10-24-2011, 10:03 AM   #3
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definitely sounds like a boost leak to me.
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:57 PM   #4
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well, turns out it's more likely a head gasket. i'm probably gonna have to pull the motor and do it myself. i don't have money to take it in.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:30 AM   #5
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Are you sure is the head gasket? both of them? Do the engine have mixed oil with water?

Because, it seems more that your intake boot has a leak, the MAF is reading some flow but when it leaks after the MAF, the engine has the symptoms that you described on your second post, it hesitate.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:41 PM   #6
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^could be. but then i'd have to explain the coolant leak, puffy, sweet smelling exhaust, overheating, etc...

no oil/coolant mix, but i've read subarus don't show that very well. going to do a compression check soon here too.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyGF8 View Post
Are you sure is the head gasket? both of them? Do the engine have mixed oil with water?
I made the same mistakes initially. You are thinking of a V engine or an I engine mixing oil and coolant when the HG goes.

Most commonly H engines just push exhaust gasses into the coolant or loose coolant through the cylinder if it really bad.

However I did have a turbo with blown seals that was pushing air into the coolant even after I had my HG replaced. Turbo replaced and suddenly my problems were gone. But that wasnt a stock turbo. It was a frankenstein peice of ebay td05 crap that the previous owner thought would be a good upgrade.

Replaced it with a factory turbo and my troubles went away.

If your hurtin for money there is a liquid copper and liquid aluminum coolant additive gasket fix product that may work as a bandaid for a month or two while you scrape together money for the full monty of headgasket replacement parts. Cometic MLS headgaskets, ARP headstuds, waterpump, new timing belt, pulleys, and tensioners.

Last edited by TommyAtomic; 10-28-2011 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:47 PM   #8
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yeah, still deciding what to do. do you think i can re use the studs? i'll bet arp studs are pretty expensive. i know they're good though.

i've heard the additives can be bad for the water pump, but not sure why. as it sits, it runs okay right now. i have added some of that copper/aluminum junk once and i'm not getting any coolant flow. i checked the therno and it opens up okay at the normal temp in hot boiled water.

i think i'm not getting circulation. the engine gets warm, the top hose is warm, but the bottom one doesn't seem to be getting any circulation/pressure. sometimes the line going into the heater core gets warm, but the outward one is cool. i think the water pump is bad. it's not leaking, or squealing. just no circulation

also, no heat

Last edited by Meat Supply; 10-31-2011 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 11-01-2011, 01:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aphex28 View Post
definitely sounds like a boost leak to me.
word.
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Old 11-01-2011, 10:15 AM   #10
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well, i'll look into that some more. right now i'm trying to figure out why i'm not getting coolant to flow. ither the water pump is shot, or the radiator is blocked. which direction does the coolant go anyway? into the radiator and up, or up through the radiator and then into the engine.
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:54 AM   #11
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Coolant flows from the hot side to the cold side of the radiator. Usually that is from the top down to the bottom.

Also if there is no heat check your coolant levels and burp the coolant system. Refill if required.

Last edited by TommyAtomic; 11-01-2011 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 11-01-2011, 12:24 PM   #12
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thanks. thought so. i've tried burping it a few times, and somehow always end up getting more bubbles, adding coolant. i've had the system open a couple times, including the heater core hoses to check if the core was plugged. it's not.

i tested the thermo yesterday and not convinced that was it. otherwise i don't know if the radiator is clogged. the thermo opened around 180* but eventually opened up all the way.

all i know is the top hose gets warm, the inlet to the heater core gets warm. everything gets warm but the bottom hose. not sure about the radiator, can't really get a and on it unless i pull the fans.

i guess it wouldn't be too much trouble to remove the radiato and show it to Mr. hose though to if it flows.
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:28 PM   #13
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If you cant seem to get the air out via burping either your not doing it right or you probably have a headgasket issue. If its not alot of air its probably not serious yet.

I use a small plastic funnel inserted into the waterbox with a matching diameter to the coolant fill hole. Then after filling coolant but before starting car I squeeze the top rad hose. This pushes coolant into the waterbox and allows air to escape. When you squeeze the top rad hose with the funnel securely in place it expands up into the funnel without spilling all over, air bubbles safely escape. Do this a couple of times until it seems like there is no more air then start the car and continue until to squeeze the hose expanding the coolant so that it comes up into the funnel and lets more air out. Continue this and add coolant as you let air out of the system to make sure the box is full. Keep going until the engine coolant is up to operating temp.

Its worth trying to pull the radiator and intoduce it to MR garden hose to make sure there is no blockage. Remember you want to push water through in reverse to unjam any thing blocking it. If you've pulled the radiator I would flush water through the whole system and then like I said refill, burp and then liquid aluminum gasket seal. It is the least of the assorted bad options for short term temporary fix on a budget. Do not use powdered radiator stop leak. EVAR
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:42 PM   #14
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well maybe tomorrow or thursday i'll give it a try. i have some liquid stuff. just out of curiosity, why not the powder stuff?
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meat Supply
well maybe tomorrow or thursday i'll give it a try. i have some liquid stuff. just out of curiosity, why not the powder stuff?
I've helped pull apart an inline4 to whom the owner thought powered leakstop would be a good idea. Not sure what brand/type he used. It might even be a good product for its intended use, Except it stuck to everything and hardened. It was a big mess inside the coolant channels and the waterpump ended up needing to be replaced.

The owner was kind of a tool so its possible he used kitty litter for all i know.

But I have heard many similar anecdotal stories of powdered leakstop. The work involved to clean it up was too much to be worth chancing it.

I've used the liquid aluminum & liquid copper product safely and it cleaned up ok with water. Its not the best option but it is an ok bandaid.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:00 PM   #16
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hmm. not saying i will, but a few people that iknow have used the powder, but I've heard the liquid is the better option. when I attempt to flush the radiator I will let you know what happened.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:04 PM   #17
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well i checked the radiator today. ran a lot of water through it. seemed to go pretty good. also replaced the thermo while i was in there. i also piured about a half gallon of water through the engine from the upper radiator hose and it all went down to the bucket underneath the waterpump, so everything seems to flow okay.

added cooant, burped, etc... got it topped up and went for a test drive. i'm thinking the pump might have got messed up. heat will come out with higher rpm's, but not at idle.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:25 PM   #18
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If its running hot after some higher RPM runs then wait for it to cool down and then check the waterbox to make sure coolant is still topped up or if there is bonus air in the coolant. if the system has been fully flushed and burped then bonus air usually equals headgasket time. Its also possible there is some other coolant leak letting in air. If there is no bonus air then what you want is a shiny new rad cap. I myself replace my rad hose clamps with t-bolt clamps to make sure there was zero chance of any sort of leak letting in air.

The coolant system is a closed system with a pressure release. This means that once there is no air in the system IE: proper burping; you should not get any new air in the system. If your running hot and there isnt any bonus air in the system that means that your radiator cap isnt holding the increase in coolant pressure from the increase in coolant temp. If it cannot maintain pressure it cannot maintain density and it looses cooling effectiveness. This does assume that your waterpump is doing its job.


However to be perfectly honest it is worthwhile to spend the $12 and buy a new generic 16lb radiator cap when you change the coolant anyways. It is not however worth while to spend the $145 bucks the dealers up here in canada charge for a 1.8bar sti rad cap.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:14 PM   #19
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well. thanks again. i dunno. didn't get to work on it today. good chance after that run there's more air that came up, and needs more coolant. i'll find out more tomorrow.
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Old 11-06-2011, 11:12 AM   #20
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well i filled it, drove it around. there's pressure on the lower hose. just little to, really no heat. i think the waterpump is shot. so i'm going to remove the front stuff, intake, exhaust, radiator, etc.... gonna pull the head too.

question i have is, to lock motor up to keep it from spinning, can i do that rope in the cylinder trick? this won't hurt the valves will it?
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Old 11-08-2011, 11:04 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meat Supply
well i filled it, drove it around. there's pressure on the lower hose. just little to, really no heat. i think the waterpump is shot. so i'm going to remove the front stuff, intake, exhaust, radiator, etc.... gonna pull the head too.

question i have is, to lock motor up to keep it from spinning, can i do that rope in the cylinder trick? this won't hurt the valves will it?

The lower rad hose shouldnt have alot of heat running through it if you radiator and thermostat are doing their jobs. If your pump isnt working -ie isnt moving coolant-you'll get a good amount of heat transfer down to the lower hose from hot coolant stagnating in the radiator. You should really focus on if you're loosing coolant/gaining air from a headgasket problem.
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Old 11-08-2011, 12:46 PM   #22
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yup. got intake off yesterday. what a chore that was. a couple of those plastic breather hose things broke too. stupid old plastic! i can make that work with new hose/fittings if i need to.

i think there's only a couple more things to remove before i can pull the head. is that the oil return line on the back of the head or the feed. it's the one with the banjo bolt. ether way it looks like it needs to go.

also, is that a t-70 bolt holding those heads on?
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:45 PM   #23
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oh hey one more thing. do i really need to get a compression tester to find TDC for cyl. 1? i have a feeler going down through the spark plug hole and can feel the piston coming up, i just don't know which time is the compression stroke. i have the valve cover off, can you tell what stroke it's on by what position the intake or exhaust valves are in?
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Old 11-10-2011, 12:26 AM   #24
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compression stroke both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed while the piston rises.
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