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Old 11-05-2011, 03:27 PM   #1
Maner
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2007 STI
Satin White Pearl

Thumbs down P0328 ECU Code issue.

I have gotten this check engine code(P0328) four times now. My AccessPort says its a Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input(Bank 1 or Single Sensor). I reset it with the AccessPort and it comes on about an hour later. I've checked and cleaned the knock sensor connectors. I checked my data log and the only abnormal thing I found was the feedback knock section. The feedback knock section is all zeros then hits -1 at 2700 RPM, -2 at 2800 RPM, -5 at 2910 RPM, -7 at 2980 RPM, -11 at 3000 to 4350 RPM, -10 at 4400 to 5100 RPM, -9 at 5200 to 5900 RPM and then back to 0 at 6000 RPM. Is this normal or could I just have a bad knock sensor? Any help would be much appreciated.

Here is the datalog: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...hl=en_US#gid=0
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Last edited by Maner; 11-05-2011 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 11-05-2011, 07:02 PM   #2
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

OMGHi2U

Also, I've run the car in both stage 2 91 and 93 maps. Same problem with both maps.
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Old 11-06-2011, 08:09 AM   #3
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
I have gotten this check engine code(P0328) four times now. My AccessPort says its a Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input(Bank 1 or Single Sensor). I reset it with the AccessPort and it comes on about an hour later. I've checked and cleaned the knock sensor connectors. I checked my data log and the only abnormal thing I found was the feedback knock section. The feedback knock section is all zeros then hits -1 at 2700 RPM, -2 at 2800 RPM, -5 at 2910 RPM, -7 at 2980 RPM, -11 at 3000 to 4350 RPM, -10 at 4400 to 5100 RPM, -9 at 5200 to 5900 RPM and then back to 0 at 6000 RPM. Is this normal or could I just have a bad knock sensor? Any help would be much appreciated.

Here is the datalog: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...hl=en_US#gid=0
That is completely abnormal knock correction. You either have something wrong with the knock sensor or you have major internal engine damage (say a broken ringland) or you have something rattling in the engine bay big time that the knock sensor is picking up. What is the history of the car? Did you buy it used? Has the knock sensor been removed at any time (say to replace the short block)?

Bill
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:26 AM   #4
Maner
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Exclamation

I bought the car used about a year ago, I am the second owner. The car has 69,000 miles on it. How would I know if something in the engine is bad? What you just said worries me. The car drives good, I think its just the knock sensor going out. Hopefully I'm right.
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Old 11-06-2011, 10:48 AM   #5
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
I bought the car used about a year ago, I am the second owner. The car has 69,000 miles on it. How would I know if something in the engine is bad? What you just said worries me. The car drives good, I think its just the knock sensor going out. Hopefully I'm right.
I think the knock sensor is the place to start here. Could be the sensor itself or the wiring between the sensor and ECU.

Here's the factory diagnostic procedure for P0328:

"CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECM AND KNOCK SENSOR.
1) Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
2) Disconnect the connectors from the ECM.
3) Measure the resistance between ECM connectors.
Connector & terminal (B134) No. 15 (B134) No. 29:
Is the resistance less than 500 kohms?
Yes, Go to step 2. No, Go to step 3.

Step 2 CHECK KNOCK SENSOR.
1) Disconnect the connector from knock sensor.
2) Measure the resistance between knock sensor connectors.
Terminals No. 1 No. 2:
Is the resistance less than 500 kohms?
Yes, Replace the knock sensor. <Ref. to FU(H4DOTC)-32, Knock Sensor.>

No, Repair the ground short circuit of harness between the ECM and knock sensor connector. NOTE: The harness between both connectors are shielded. Remove the shield and repair the short circuit of the harness circuit.

3 CHECK INPUT SIGNAL OF ECM.
1) Connect the ECM.
2) Turn the ignition switch to ON.
3) Measure the voltage between ECM and
chassis ground.
Connector & terminal (B134) No. 15 (+) Chassis ground ():
Is the voltage 2 V or more?

Yes, Even if the malfunction indicator light illuminates, the circuit has returned to a normal condition at this time. Reproduce the fault condition, and
reperform the check. NOTE: In this case, there may be a temporary connector contact failure.

No, Repair poor contact of the ECM connector."


Bill
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:39 PM   #6
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

Question

Alright, thank you for looking the task up for me. I already have another knock sensor on the way from Genuine Subaru, it should be here by Wednesday. Just being cautious, because shes my daily driver. Also, is it normal for my cruise light to flash on and off when my check engine light illuminates? I tried to reset the check engine light recently and it will not go out.
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:57 PM   #7
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
Alright, thank you for looking the task up for me. I already have another knock sensor on the way from Genuine Subaru, it should be here by Wednesday. Just being cautious, because shes my daily driver. Also, is it normal for my cruise light to flash on and off when my check engine light illuminates? I tried to reset the check engine light recently and it will not go out.
Cruise control will be disabled when the check engine light is on.

Be careful when you install the knock sensor. It must be torqued correctly and orientated correctly. The service manual I happen to have at my disposal (although not for an 07 STi) shows 17.7 ft-lb and "The portion of the knock sensor cord that is pulled out must be positioned at a 60 angle relative to the engine rear."

I would find the STi service manual and confirm.

Bill
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:24 PM   #8
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

Arrow

Ok, should I round up and torque to 18 or 17.5 is good. And basically just install it exactly how the old one is.

Last edited by Maner; 11-10-2011 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:05 PM   #9
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

Talking

Alright, replaced the knock sensor and started it up. No check engine light so far. Hooked up the AccessPort, started a log and took her for a 10min drive. Get back home and still no check engine light. Hooked up the AccessPort to check the log, and feedback knock section reads all zero's. So, I think its safe to say it was a bad knock sensor. Thank you to Bill at Cobb Tuning for helping me out, I appreciate that very much.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:42 AM   #10
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
Alright, replaced the knock sensor and started it up. No check engine light so far. Hooked up the AccessPort, started a log and took her for a 10min drive. Get back home and still no check engine light. Hooked up the AccessPort to check the log, and feedback knock section reads all zero's. So, I think its safe to say it was a bad knock sensor. Thank you to Bill at Cobb Tuning for helping me out, I appreciate that very much.
No problem. I'm glad you got it sorted out!

Bill
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:56 PM   #11
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

Angry

Well, I guess I spoke to soon. Started driving her again today and sure enough the check engine light came on again. So I plugged in the AccessPort and checked the code. Of course its a P0328. So I started a log and drove home. Here are the results:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...hl=en_US#gid=0
Ya, you guessed it. More feedback knock.
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:20 PM   #12
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
Well, I guess I spoke to soon. Started driving her again today and sure enough the check engine light came on again. So I plugged in the AccessPort and checked the code. Of course its a P0328. So I started a log and drove home. Here are the results:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...hl=en_US#gid=0
Ya, you guessed it. More feedback knock.
The P0328 DTC is basically based on knock sensor voltage upper limit (something that is not likely to be exceeded with just "standard" knock). So, either you have an issue with the knock sensor wiring/ECU input (since it isn't the sensor itself) or you have something loose in the engine bay that the knock sensor is picking up. Usually, though, the latter does not cause you to throw a CEL, so it would have to be something really making a racket (at least to the knock sensor). Other than that, it would have to be internal engine damage (say a broken ringland), but, again, that doesn't usually throw the CEL either.

Bill
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:52 PM   #13
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

Have a Nice Day?

Well, I guess I am just going to keep trouble shooting. Worst case scenario its the internals of the engine. I guess I can replace the pistons and crank rods with Cosworth parts while I'm at it. I have been planing on doing that it in the future anyways. Its just alittle pricey.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:16 AM   #14
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
Well, I guess I am just going to keep trouble shooting. Worst case scenario its the internals of the engine. I guess I can replace the pistons and crank rods with Cosworth parts while I'm at it. I have been planing on doing that it in the future anyways. Its just alittle pricey.
I would follow the rest of the factory manual diagnosis for the knock sensor first. It could still be the wiring from the sensor to the ECU.

Bill
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:39 PM   #15
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
Well, I guess I am just going to keep trouble shooting. Worst case scenario its the internals of the engine. I guess I can replace the pistons and crank rods with Cosworth parts while I'm at it. I have been planing on doing that it in the future anyways. Its just alittle pricey.
You should be able to reasonably verify the engine's health (or identify the point of failure) between a compression/leakdown test and a used oil analysis (UOA). The compression and leakdown test will identify if the engine produces the proper amount of compression and where any blowby that exists may be escaping from. The UOA will identify if there is abnormal or heightened internal wear, such as a failing rod bearing. Comp/leakdown will cost you 2-3 hours at shop rate at your local shop usually; UOA is ~$25 lab fees plus the cost for a normal oil change. So, for less than ~$350, you can have a really good idea of your engine's current health and perhaps save yourself many thousands in a hastened or partially unnecessary rebuild (though they all break some day )

Good luck and best regards

Lance
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Old 11-15-2011, 09:52 PM   #16
Maner
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Satin White Pearl

Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb Tuning View Post
You should be able to reasonably verify the engine's health (or identify the point of failure) between a compression/leakdown test and a used oil analysis (UOA). The compression and leakdown test will identify if the engine produces the proper amount of compression and where any blowby that exists may be escaping from. The UOA will identify if there is abnormal or heightened internal wear, such as a failing rod bearing. Comp/leakdown will cost you 2-3 hours at shop rate at your local shop usually; UOA is ~$25 lab fees plus the cost for a normal oil change. So, for less than ~$350, you can have a really good idea of your engine's current health and perhaps save yourself many thousands in a hastened or partially unnecessary rebuild (though they all break some day )

Good luck and best regards

Lance
Alright, I will have to try that. Also, after reading some threads. The car still has the original fuel filter installed(at 70,000 miles). And what about the injectors? Could this have something to do with the problem?
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:11 AM   #17
Cobb Tuning
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Alright, I will have to try that. Also, after reading some threads. The car still has the original fuel filter installed(at 70,000 miles). And what about the injectors? Could this have something to do with the problem?
Any mechanical issue that could cause severe knock could be an issue here, but, generally speaking, you do not get the knock sensor DTC even with heavy knock. So, it is more likely to be a problem with the knock sensor (which you ruled out), knock sensor wiring, or possibly something making a ton of racket in the engine bay (like internal engine damage).

Bill
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:07 PM   #18
Maner
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Thumbs up

Ok, finally found the issue. Ended up being a bad spot in the wiring harness. There was a crimp spot near the connector. Repaired the wire, and the CEL has not come on again. Its been three days now, so I think its safe to say its fixed.
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Old 12-01-2011, 01:50 PM   #19
Cobb Tuning
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Originally Posted by Maner View Post
Ok, finally found the issue. Ended up being a bad spot in the wiring harness. There was a crimp spot near the connector. Repaired the wire, and the CEL has not come on again. Its been three days now, so I think its safe to say its fixed.
Glad you got it sorted!

Bill
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