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Old 05-28-2012, 08:04 AM   #51
ride5000
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you use the right logger definition file and you log that parameter. stay in one gear for a while, collect a bunch of data points for each of the gears.

pull out those values for each, average them, and put it in the code.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:43 PM   #52
lil jon
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Since it can do dual mapp. Does that mean I can do a e85 tune and a pump tune. That way if I can't find e85 I can swap back? Going speed d tonight!! Can't wait
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:10 PM   #53
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yes pretty much

carbibbles mentionned somewhere the possibility to have a flexfuel sensor to automatically switch to the other map

let me know how your cruising goes on this, I'm having a weird hesitation on mine I can't tune out
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:32 PM   #54
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Thanks bro. My buddy has been using this rom. So he will be tunning it today I'm learning it to tune my self. . I'll keep ya posted. Ej205/gtk450 all built looking for 450 whp

Last edited by lil jon; 05-29-2012 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:01 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil jon View Post
Thanks bro. Mr slowbaru has been using this rom. So he will be tunning it today. I'll keep ya posted. Ej205/gtk450 all built looking for 450 whp
ok then nevermind the hesitation, you'll have one haha
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:36 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRick View Post
yes pretty much

carbibbles mentionned somewhere the possibility to have a flexfuel sensor to automatically switch to the other map

let me know how your cruising goes on this, I'm having a weird hesitation on mine I can't tune out
rick: how have you tuned your VE map?

the only way that worked for me is to run full time open loop and log the wideband constantly, then make iterative changes.

there's a spreadsheet over on romraider.com that you can use to assist the process.
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:34 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
rick: how have you tuned your VE map?

the only way that worked for me is to run full time open loop and log the wideband constantly, then make iterative changes.

there's a spreadsheet over on romraider.com that you can use to assist the process.
mind you i'm NO tuner, but I know my way around.

So, you had the same hesitation un constant cruising ?
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:07 PM   #58
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So far smooth like a baby's butt!!!! Round 2 tomorrow. Didn't boost yet. No hesitation at all. Drove for 15 miles or so
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:29 PM   #59
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i was surprised to see how much variation in VE wrt rpm the maps demanded. when accelerating through these points the fuel trims will exacerbate instability if the map isn't accurate. i chalk it up to induction resonances, perhaps some exhaust to a lesser extent. trims are load range based so they do not have the ability to learn these corrections.

tip in is also very tricky to nail...
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Old 05-30-2012, 03:00 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dub c View Post
Is anybody removing or relocating the front O2 sensor?
I am curious as to how long it would last if the Anti lag is being used occasionally...

I am hoping to keep everything out of my exhaust manifold/uppipe to avoid potential break-up issues that could crap on the turbo compressor.
Bueller, bueller, bueller.
Anybody?
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Old 05-30-2012, 05:32 AM   #61
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i have been running 100% open loop for many weeks now.

at this point i am considering pulling the front o2 sensor.

afrs are remarkably stable, but that is also due to spending the time on the VE map.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:30 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
i have been running 100% open loop for many weeks now.

at this point i am considering pulling the front o2 sensor.

afrs are remarkably stable, but that is also due to spending the time on the VE map.
Dammit

Again, I'm no tuner, but if someone were to explain the effects/results VS logging paremeters of the VE map I could would on this.

Any pointers ?
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:53 AM   #63
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basically you set the rom to run open loop 24/7

then you log RPM, MAP, final fueling base, TPS, and wideband. best data comes from very very smooth throttle changes.

then you take that log data, paste it into a spreadsheet along with your original VE map. the spreadsheet sorts it by row/column for your VE surface, and it pumps out a suggested adjusted surface.

you can probably do some of the low load stuff with the oem narrowband, but i was dissatisfied with the accuracy of that sensor at anything but stoich afr.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:21 PM   #64
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so i finally go around to doing the throttle kick today in preparation for enabling anti-lag next week. its "kicked" to .78v and i reset the ecu. tps reads 0% throttle angle. it idles like its supposed to i guess but the wideband reads off the chart lean. im ASSUMING thats the way it should be?

my bigger problem is fuel being applied after throttle lift off between 1mph in any gear and 3100rpm. If i lift off the throttle below 3100rpm fuel is being applied and untill timing drops to -10.5* the car doesnt really decel. on gear changes the throttle tends to rise up maybe 2-300rpm making for balky shifts if im not paying attention. if i shift above 3100 or let off the throttle its perfectly fine/normal.
if im slowing down to a stop, the rpms never drop below 1400rpm until the vss reads 0mph which is kinda annoying. i looked at the decel fuel table and no fuel is to be applied above 1400 rpm with the throttle plate closed. is this normal or did i screw something up??
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:33 PM   #65
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wideband reads lean during antilag/rotational idle because there is a buttload of oxygen passing through the engine without it having oxidized fuel.

i'm not sure i really follow the rest of your post....
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:57 PM   #66
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driving between 1500-3100rpm in any gear and i let off the throttle fuel is being delivered. above 3100rpm you let off the throttle and no fuel is delivered until the rpm fall below 3100 and then fueling is active again keeping rpm from falling.
again, this is just with the throttle kicked to .78v and anti-lag DISABLED.
There's a decel fueling table that determines when fueling is active when the throttle is closed. According to that table, fueling shouldnt be active above 1400rpm with a closed throttle plate.

does that make more sense? i know its hard to explain/understand. lol
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:26 PM   #67
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@dub c - you will want to move your O2 to the down pipe with anti-lag. ALS will destroy your O2 very quickly (and could lead to turbine wheel damage from sensor shrapnel) if its in the header.



@dux10 - with the throttle kicked to .78v you are entering a mild rotational idle mode that will have different fueling settings. If you want the car to idle lower with the throttle kick then change the idle targets in the .78v base throttle voltage row. Be aware that the rally cars that use these features generally idle at 2000rpm, it will not be pleasant to drive around on the street.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:31 PM   #68
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its not exactly idling there... pm me your email and I'll see if i can explain it better when im not on my fone...
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:25 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbibbles View Post
@dub c - you will want to move your O2 to the down pipe with anti-lag. ALS will destroy your O2 very quickly (and could lead to turbine wheel damage from sensor shrapnel) if its in the header.
Thanks Carbibbles.
Yeah, that was my thought for moving it.
Options:
-Should I relocate it next to the rear/downpipe O2 sensor?
-OR, should I remove it all together and throw a resistor in the connector?

Edit: Probably going to remove it and just tune through Open loop.

Last edited by dub c; 06-01-2012 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:48 PM   #70
ride5000
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if you ever want to run closed loop you'll need a front o2 sensor.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:49 PM   #71
ride5000
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if you ever want to run closed loop you'll need a front o2 sensor.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #72
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Remove the rear o2 entirely and put the front o2 in its place
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:04 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbibbles
Remove the rear o2 entirely and put the front o2 in its place
I suppose the wiring will not reach that far will it
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:26 AM   #74
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No the wiring won't be long enough. I took the stock rear o2 extension harness and filed off the connector tabs so the front o2 harness plug would connect to it. Then just used that as an extension to make the wiring long enough. Pretty easy and it works great
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:29 AM   #75
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no, you'll need to splice it.

perhaps one of these would work, but i have no experience either way: http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU
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