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Old 06-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #126
kellygnsd
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Go look in the carbon fiber driveshaft thread, they talk about the spacing. I don't think its a problem.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:22 PM   #127
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Looks fine to me.
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:23 PM   #128
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Why do you have that port plugged off in the center? Looks like you just need a 90* hose off the hard line right there to hook it up.
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:46 PM   #129
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Thanks Kelly! I searched all the aluminum threads but didn't think about looking at the carbon threads. I'll check into it.

As for the blocked plug, if you go about 25-30 posts ago I was talking about how I wanted to run my lines for catch can... I blocked off the center vent and have the head breathers tee'd. The hardline is plugged on the inside with a end cap and RTV. Finding a cap for that vs what I have cobbled there is on my to do list.

The PCV is going directly to catch can & I need to tee that into a vacuum line of some sort.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:27 PM   #130
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How much of the shaft is actually contacting the splines of the trans?
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:45 PM   #131
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Quite a bit, I found someone else who has the same thing I do right now... just talked to tony on the phone for 20 minutes, and he said that it is good, after 2 years he has had no issues

If I had to say, I would guess 60 percent at a minimum. Probably more like 75 to 80. When I get those percentages I mean on the shaft side, the transmission side is 100 percent covered when fully engaged, but then I have to suck it back a little bit for hooking up to the drive shaft
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Old 06-12-2012, 12:57 AM   #132
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Is DSS willing to send a new one if the splines stripped out? And replace the transmissions's output shaft? I mean, if they're not willing to bet that much money that it will last, why should you?

I wouldn't expect a free replacement or a part that fits right (stuff blows up all the time, pay to play, etc, etc), but in a case like this where the spline overlap is reduced by incorrect fitment, I'd expect them to back up their assurance that it won't be a problem. Of course I'd be really impressed / surprised if they took that bet, but if they did then I'd be confident about running that driveshaft. And if they didn't I'd be sending it back.

Call me crazy but I'd be unhappy if I was in your position. You should not have to sacrifice spline overlap. I have a custom (bigger and rebuildable) driveshaft for the 6MT conversion in my Legacy, and it fit beautifully. It's not rocket science.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:00 AM   #133
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^^^^^^

Read that thread I posted a link too. Its not any less engagement it just looks like it since there is no dust sleeve on the end like stock.
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:48 AM   #134
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That's what I found put too.. talked to a guu who has had engagement exactly like mine for two years with no problem. Out of him being nervous he's replaced the output shaft seal two times... but no drips. Ill run it and hope it works. Got a 07 trans/linkage / DSS shaft for 2800 all with under 10k miles.. cannot complain.

Have a little more work to get the shaft to fit then that will be done.

Got my harness from JR who posted above a few posts ago... appears I had the right sensors, so just plugged and play. Need to solder dccd wires and that'll be done.


I think I'm going to order my 044s here soon so I can adjust my FPR and get lines held into place.
After that the waiting game for a Turbo really begins cause it will be the only.thing holding me up besides money.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:11 AM   #135
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Look at the difference in the gap in the first and second pictures in post #125 in this thread. The gap itself isn't the thing that worries me... what worries me is that the gap got larger in the fully-installed pic. The distance that the shaft had to be pulled rearward to mate up with the diff is the amount of spline overlap that you lost.

That "DSS Carbon Driveshaft" thread has pics of an output shaft that had the splines damaged. That pic looks just like the failure that I'd expect from insufficient spline overlap. It even shows twisted splines still on the output shaft - splines that should have been inside the driveshaft contributing to the strength of the connection. But they weren't, and the remaining splines didn't have enough strength to survive. And it looks like the length of those twisted splines is about equal to the growth in the gap in the two pictures in post #125 in this thread. Go figure.

I don't see the point of installing an "upgraded" driveshaft if that just creates a weaker connection at the transmission output shaft.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:31 AM   #136
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i'm with nsfw on this one only because i just recently went through this experience.

i worked with frank (dss) on my custom carbon fiber driveshaft for my 08 wrx and the length was an issue i noticed. i drove it as it was for about 200 miles but couldn't get the thought of it out of my head. seeing how these dimensions would be used for all future orders with my configuration, i sent detailed pics of the shaft and installation and indeed frank agreed a new had to be made.

these aren't the best pictures nor angles but yours in its present condition looks to be right about in between my before and after.

before:




and the new one that dss made for me, much better!



in my initial query to him about the spacing, he stated "measure from the edge of the seal to where the yoke would bottom. should be about one inch give or take 1/4" and that if more than that, you have a problem that requires fixing.

if you haven't already, i'd give dss a call. frank and the guys there were great guys to deal with. i don't know how much they'll do for you but it's worth confirmation and/or looking into.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:20 AM   #137
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If you're talking about cnstman he says his output shaft was tweeked before the install of the drive shaft and from the abuse of multiple prior sub 1.6 60ft launches.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:13 AM   #138
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We'll never know if it would have survived with full spline overlap. But we do know that the driveshaft fitment sacrificed spline overlap, and it failed in just the way you'd expect from insufficient spline overlap.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:11 PM   #139
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Called and talked to drive shaft shop today... explained the situation and they said that if it was pushes up against the output shaft it would bind up an break.things. the dust shield is nice to have but note entirely necessary. This weekend ill get out the grinder one more rime cause its running rear shifter bushing a bit, and that will be that.

Onto bigger and more fun things.

90% im Ditching the EFR. Really don't want to.. but I just feel that every two months, 2 weeks before BW is supposed to release them, the date gets pushed back. ... I won't have all my money saved by the end of august, but at the end of august if the EFR isn't available .. I'm going to the gtx35 or a PT 6262 or something similar.

Just not loving the idea of all the perephenilia you have to have with them. Exhaust plumbing and bov.

We'll see... still two months away.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:38 PM   #140
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Got sick of waiting and liked the thoughts of only pushing 23-25 psi vs 27-29 on the EFR.
Have a PTE 6262 with the ported inlet and billet wheel, ceramic bearings on the way. T4 .84 trim. Should spool up decent with the smaller AR and still being twin scroll.

Losing some of the fun factor of having something "new" but I guess we can't all be paving the way. jsard proved this turbo a while ago and my setup is quite similar to his.

Getting a 46mm PTE EWG with it and just putting the two scrolls to one Wastegate. Turbo and EWG were still 250 less than what the EFR was going to cost. I already have a boost control solenoid so thats not an issue, and I need to find a BOV worth putting on which will make it about even compared to the EFR. (ANY SUGGESTIONS? Thinking TIAL)

Hopefully will have turbo by July 4th weekend... depends if I still get any bday gifts that cause me to ... accessorize and spend money haha.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:01 AM   #141
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Are you having the current up pipe modified or getting a new one?
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Old 06-22-2012, 05:33 AM   #142
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I will be having a full setup made, headers into 2 collectors, up pipe and down pipe to my existing cat back
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:20 PM   #143
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Well... Got the fuel system setup tonight, at least the pumps and FPR.

Calibrated the FPR to about 43.75 psi if I really squint at the gauge, and confirmed that added pressure / vacuum changed the pressure. So that was a bonus.

I bought the lines to this system used and put in new pumps. Talking with the previous owner, he ran both pumps 100% of the time, which is what I'll do initially to eliminate variables. I'm curious though... What is the general consensus on throwing a check valve in front of one of the pumps, and putting a pressure switch on it so that it only comes on with boost?

Thinking something like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-72214/
At 50 PSI, it woudl be coming on at about 6psi of boost. My thoughts are to save wear and tear on that pump. I'm not 100% opposed to leaving them on 100% of the time, but just want to know what is a good / bad idea when it comes to these pumps.

Another option would be to use a oil pressure safety switch that activates at 5psi, but using air instead. This would be easier and cleaner to plumb.
Thanks again fellas!
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Old 07-01-2012, 04:32 PM   #144
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No help??
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:22 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post

I bought the lines to this system used and put in new pumps. Talking with the previous owner, he ran both pumps 100% of the time, which is what I'll \do initially to eliminate variables. I'm curious though... What is the general consensus on throwing a check valve in front of one of the pumps, and putting a pressure switch on it so that it only comes on with boost?

Thinking something like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-72214/
At 50 PSI, it woudl be coming on at about 6psi of boost. My thoughts are to save wear and tear on that pump. I'm not 100% opposed to leaving them on 100% of the time, but just want to know what is a good / bad idea when it comes to these pumps.
I usually run them both at the same time. You can do a pressure switch and kick the 2nd one in if you like. Either way will work out.
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Old 07-02-2012, 05:49 AM   #146
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Thanks Jr!
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:15 PM   #147
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Drilled hole in my spacer today. Was aiming for 62mm. Got close enough with a 2-3/8" hole saw and used a 2-1/2" flap wheel to get it the rest of the way. Then finished with 1500 grit sand paper.. Motor will be hopefully 100% ready to go in tonight! Going to keep it in my living room till I have my Turbo and exhaust back so that it can keep the dust out of the.motor

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Old 07-18-2012, 09:49 PM   #148
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Well ... time to complain about that drive shaft again. I thought I only had a little nit of grinding to do to finish up, but ended up needing to cut a good sized chunk out of the rear subframe to get it to fit with some clearance.

Then I noticed it was rubbing on my rear stay bushing on the shifter, so I used a fresh blade on the utility knife and shaved a bit off that. . . Then, I had drilled my rear diff out previously because DSS decided that they would use bigger bolts than what is on the diff, so that had been done... but I didn't think about the collars on the bolts being a bit bigger than the threaded shank, so I need approximately a 25/64" (10mm) bit to drill out the holes the rest of the way.

Mike at built industries is about 2 days away from my last payment ( I think) on this build. Turbo and assorted fittings will be paid for on Friday. I'm going to have the Turbo sent straight up to "Fobia" to get my twin scroll setup made. In the process, ill be getting my vipec situated. Waiting to gear back from a few people I've been talking to, or trying to talk to about tuning the vipec.

On a side note... the new AMS intake manifold looks sexy as hell. Hoping Ty will let me be the GD demo cause other than I don't have stock rails ... I'm exactly what he's looking for.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:27 PM   #149
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Paid for the Turbo today and Candy at Built hooked me with shipping to fobiawrx so I'm hoping that will be there next week.some time so he can start on my exhaust the following week. In theory that will be here by the end of August.

Also drilled out those holes today. Put in the front diff cover and there was only a little bit of grinding necessary for that, I just took out the metal guide on the bottom cause it was hitting the u-joint.

Gave it a minor rust protection and finally done and bolted up. Added some fluid to the trans and didn't see any leaks. Next week ill fill er up. ... I'm broke right now.

In the interim between now and ordering my vipec I need to get a map sensor, and an IAT sensor so that I can 100% finish my motor. Had to do some minor grinding on the alternator bracket this weekend. Not positive it will fit once its assembled but I can always take more. A much simpler solution would be the kstech 9.5mm intake manifold spacers cause that is about all I need. The 8mm don't have quite enough to get.over the alternator with ease. If any vendors are reading I feel a 12mm would be the perfect size to avoid hitting the bracket and to keep clearance on the hood.

Layvon
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:20 PM   #150
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Well, small update, but an exciting one. Through the work program for my truck, I get paid around $0.31 a mile, and last month when I went on storm work in West Virginia, I drove 5,000 miles. Between that and selling a few things, I'm going to pay FobiaWRX the rest of the money I owe him Friday, and Send Mike at Innovative money for the Vi-Pec Next week once that check for the fuel comes in. Very excited!!

I'm trying to get my car running at least enough to go up to Matt Markers Memorial Cruise in Elk Rapids, so I would like to have my car able to turn on the weekend before, so I can owrk out some kinks during the week, and do my 50 - 100 mile oil change. I am very excited to be able to say this, because my time line just got pushed up by 2-3 weeks, which is a big bonus to my personal morale.

I've got the IAT wired over onto the drivers side of the trunk, and the Signal Wires from my gauges over to the computer area waiting for the Vi-Pec to arrive. WB02 should be easy, and so should the Oil pressure. I have not confirmed this yet, but I would imagine I can use the stock wire for the oil pressure signal and configure what to do with the pin out. Same thing for the WB02. I am going to rely on Mike @ innovative and possibly bug kelly again since he's been a huge help so far on questions with the Vi-Pec

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