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Old 04-27-2012, 09:52 AM   #226
aeion
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Going in through the passenger side isn't much better. That job is just a bear any way you look at it. I wasn't a happy camper when I replaced my expansion valve haha
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:21 AM   #227
99imprezd
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Default sound deadening removal

Great build man.. cant wait to see her all together! Not sure how youre getting the sound deadening ***** removed but Ive seen some pro rally racer friends of mine use dry ice to very easily remove that stuff compared to scrapin with a screw driver.. of course they also weld over all of the seams in the unibody and chassis of the car before roll cage gets installed.. It looks like youre gettin yours out pretty cleanly though.. lookin good
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:50 AM   #228
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Those rear vents are held in place with some white clips (#8):


Just slide them outward... they might not even still be there (one of mine was broken off).
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:52 AM   #229
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99imprezd View Post
Great build man.. cant wait to see her all together! Not sure how youre getting the sound deadening ***** removed but Ive seen some pro rally racer friends of mine use dry ice to very easily remove that stuff compared to scrapin with a screw driver.. of course they also weld over all of the seams in the unibody and chassis of the car before roll cage gets installed.. It looks like youre gettin yours out pretty cleanly though.. lookin good

Yep definitely been using the dry ice method, makes the job so much easier. Still time consuming but not terrible, just smash up some dry ice, throw it on the sound deadening, let it freeze over, then use a scraper and hammer and take it up in huge chunks all the way down to bare metal, then I use a wire wheel to clean up any leftover pieces prior to paint. Wouldn't recommend any other way, much much easier and produces an excellent end result. My next major task is learning how to weld at the local jc, so next time I am doing a big project I can spot weld the chassis. Always projects on the next time list...
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:59 PM   #230
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Glad I could help with the fender work suggestions.

I look forward to how everything turns out.

-t3h_clap
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Old 04-28-2012, 03:25 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeBop86 View Post
Those rear vents are held in place with some white clips (#8):


Just slide them outward... they might not even still be there (one of mine was broken off).
Thanks fo rthe info.. I was looking at FSM but wasn't sure if I was missing something, and it pisses me off everytime I break a fastener. Hopefully the dash will be fully removed by the end of the day, and the calipers rebuilt.
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:50 PM   #232
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Minor update- dash is completely out and getting prepped for flocking. All under dash components have been removed to strip the under dash sound deadening. Left the padding under windshield as I didn't want to listen to the dash rattle, and leaving a square of the insulation under the ecu for insurance. Probably not necessary, but I'll take a little extra precautions around the ecu. Pics will be updated shortly. Excited to finish the tear down and start on reassembly. I hate wiring, so I will be glad when I am done with the electronics.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:48 PM   #233
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Love the build, keep up the good work.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:02 PM   #234
soccer05
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Update from beginning of yesterday, here is how the dash looked at the start of the day with all the lower dash panels removed in preparation to remove the dash. All electronics have been labeled to ensure correct reinstall, a little time now can save massive amountws of time troubleshooting and diagnosing later. Dash needs to be romoved, blower motor, etc. to remove all sound deadening. Then prep work with a wire wheel to remove any little bits of remaining deadening, prep with acetone, and paint. This project is slowly making progress.


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Old 04-30-2012, 01:05 PM   #235
soccer05
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Just received the necessary parts for my battery relocation. Very excited as these are top quality connections that should be able to achieve high end reliability. Will be running 0 gauge low resistance cable from the battery under the passenger seat to the oem battery location. This will connect to a distribution block, which will then connect to the starter. Battery will obviously have all the proper in line fuses and connecters, etc. This arrangement will allow me to have the ideal placement of weight, lower my polar moment of inertia, and move the center of gravity back off the nose of a nose heavy car. Also, by using the distribution block, I am able to have areliable power distribution as well as an easy to access point for connection with a timing light. Excited to have these parts mounted and the interior back in the car.


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And the high end 0 gauge low resistance cable-


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Old 05-01-2012, 10:21 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
Glad I could help with the fender work suggestions.

I look forward to how everything turns out.

-t3h_clap
Yeah, huge huge thanks for posting those two how to articles on your website. I'm pretty confident in other areas of car prep, but body work has always scared me, but those two articles have enough information step by step that I felt confident in tackling the job. As is evident in my build, I don't think enough serious subie owners take the necessary steps to put sufficient rubber on the road, instead settling for smaller rubber to avoid the bodywork issues. Huge thanks, I know those articles can take a lot of time but an enormous help. Thanks again for the help and advice.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:06 AM   #237
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Is the relocation of the battery really going to make "that" much of a difference in the handling of the car? I feel as though its a lot of work for so little possible benefit? I do however see the advantages of the distribution block in this case. Isn't (and please correct me if I am wrong) there smaller slim lightweight batteries? I think that would save you alot of time and money as I know how expensive those accessories and 0 guage wire is (especially with all the mark up ). Not hating on your build at all, in fact I look forward to your posts and check every day lol , just curious as to your reasoning.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:02 PM   #238
soccer05
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Pictures of progress over the weekend- Dash is completely removed from the car, and waiting to be flocked and reinstalled. I am using MSI's buld thread for advice on the flocking, and have taken apart all removable panels to make this job look as proffessional as possible. Now just need pictures of the sound deadening removed, Por-15 painted, and interior reinstalled. A lot of work that hopefully no one will ever see or notice, but goes well in the theme of being a dual purpose street car. Very excited to reinstall the dash, as I think it will look amazing as well as cut down on the annoying glare I get when I clean the car. Was very satisfied with the ease in which the dash was removed, I have worked on dashes that were an absolute ***** before, but the subaru unit removed quite easily, with minor trim and attachment points, but nothing horrible. Definitely within the scope of the average do it yourselfer.


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Old 05-01-2012, 04:11 PM   #239
soccer05
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The rest of the sound deadening removed. I chose to keep certain areas with the sound deadening, as this is not an all out track build, and some compromises have to be made. I chose to keep some of the sound deadening around the windshield, as I did not want to deal with the dash rattling with my upgraded suspension. I removed the majority of the heavy black matting, but kept a small square in place for under the ecu, as I wanted the extra security around my electronic management systems. I pulled probably 85% of the sound deadening, there is still some in the far reaches of the steering column and behind the heater core, but I did not want to have to remove and reinstall all these systems for a couple pounds of matting. Like I said, compromises were made, but this was a rather easy job if you take your time and a considerable amount of weight can be removed with minimal side effects. 30 bucks of dry ice will allow you to chisel all the rubberized sound deadening, and elbow grease will remove the heavy matting under the dash. I believe the bag of interior sound deadening I removed was 18-20 pounds of dead unnecessary weight. Not bad for a little side project. The best thing is , once I post pictures of the reinstalled carpet and interior, a person would be hard pressed to notice that any work had been done. Just what I was after, remove unnecessary weight without unbearable side effects.


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Old 05-01-2012, 04:15 PM   #240
soccer05
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After removing with dry ice, there still is some minor work to be done. I picked up a wire wheel attachment and used that to sand the metal, removing any residual pieces of rubberized sound deadening. Then vaccummed and wiped down the areas to be painted with acetone, which cleans the surface and will allow the POR-15 to bond evenly, as well as making the metal as smooth and oem looking as possible. Seeing as acetone is extremely flammable, it is a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy as well as a good fan blowing to ventilate the area. Here is the interior waiting for the POR15.


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Old 05-03-2012, 01:59 PM   #241
soccer05
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Interior painted with POR-15. All interior holes patched, plugged, and sealed. Slowly getting to the point where I can reinstall the interior and finish rewiring the battery.


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Old 05-03-2012, 02:03 PM   #242
soccer05
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Interior carpet reinstalled. Nice to have this step behind me, feels good to have a task on the done checklist. Net savings was approximately 18-20 pounds. I highly recommend this to enthusiasts, as it was not difficult to accomplish. The interior comes out very easily, a few screws and fasteners and all interior trim pieces come out, the carpet is easy to remove, then it is just a couple hours with a chisel, dry ice, and a grinder for a very substantial weight savings. Way, way cheaper than that carbon hood so many enthusiasts go for as an initial modification. Highly recommend this, as it is really not that difficult or time consuming to accomplish.


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Old 05-08-2012, 03:56 PM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ullrichv2 View Post
Is the relocation of the battery really going to make "that" much of a difference in the handling of the car? I feel as though its a lot of work for so little possible benefit? I do however see the advantages of the distribution block in this case. Isn't (and please correct me if I am wrong) there smaller slim lightweight batteries? I think that would save you alot of time and money as I know how expensive those accessories and 0 guage wire is (especially with all the mark up ). Not hating on your build at all, in fact I look forward to your posts and check every day lol , just curious as to your reasoning.
Well I can't give an exact figure for improvement due to this modification being done in conjunction with so many other modifications. From what I understand it is definitely a feel able difference. From what I have read on motoiq it redistributes the weight by several percent, which is very noticeable and the equivlant of relocating the drivetrain rearward by several inches. Here is my though process, I could have replaced my battery with the lightweight oddessey pc680 and cut about 25 pounds off the front left corner of the car, which is the worst possible location for weight on our cars. By relocating the battery, I remove the entire 40ish pounds from that corner, take advantage of the weight savings a lightweight battery offers, but put that lightweight in a place where it does the least damage to handling (lowers polar moment of inertia, lightens the front end of a front heavy car, improves weight distribution). So thats my thought process, and even with the price of wiring, it offers substantially more weight savings for a significantly cheaper price than carbon fiber hoods. So in my mind, more weight savings for a cheaper cost than other options made it a winner. Combined wih my other weight cutting measures off the nose of the car (lightweight bumper beam, battery relocation, removal of foglights for brake ducting, and hopefully front subframe brace) that is easily 75-100 pounds of weight removed from the nose. So in my mind I lOoked at the total end weight reduction and felt the price and benefits would be worth it. Basically a lot of benefits for going a little further wih battery wiring. Check out the article at motoiq for battery relocation, it provided a lot of my reasoning behind going further than just mounting in the oem location (http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...elocation.aspx). Let me know if that answers your question, or if you have any others about my thought process. It really hasn't been very difficult and the price still has me cheaper than other options.
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Old 05-08-2012, 04:57 PM   #244
ullrichv2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer05 View Post
Well I can't give an exact figure for improvement due to this modification being done in conjunction with so many other modifications. From what I understand it is definitely a feel able difference. From what I have read on motoiq it redistributes the weight by several percent, which is very noticeable and the equivlant of relocating the drivetrain rearward by several inches. Here is my though process, I could have replaced my battery with the lightweight oddessey pc680 and cut about 25 pounds off the front left corner of the car, which is the worst possible location for weight on our cars. By relocating the battery, I remove the entire 40ish pounds from that corner, take advantage of the weight savings a lightweight battery offers, but put that lightweight in a place where it does the least damage to handling (lowers polar moment of inertia, lightens the front end of a front heavy car, improves weight distribution). So thats my thought process, and even with the price of wiring, it offers substantially more weight savings for a significantly cheaper price than carbon fiber hoods. So in my mind, more weight savings for a cheaper cost than other options made it a winner. Combined wih my other weight cutting measures off the nose of the car (lightweight bumper beam, battery relocation, removal of foglights for brake ducting, and hopefully front subframe brace) that is easily 75-100 pounds of weight removed from the nose. So in my mind I lOoked at the total end weight reduction and felt the price and benefits would be worth it. Basically a lot of benefits for going a little further wih battery wiring. Check out the article at motoiq for battery relocation, it provided a lot of my reasoning behind going further than just mounting in the oem location (http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...elocation.aspx). Let me know if that answers your question, or if you have any others about my thought process. It really hasn't been very difficult and the price still has me cheaper than other options.
your reasons are full of WIN. I forgot the other things you had done to take weight off the nose of the car. Your methodical planning is impressive! With the extra rubber, suspension work, and weight loss, this car should handle like on rails
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:20 PM   #245
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I have an 99 RS coupe thats going to be around 450 whp on a mustang dyno with a dom 3xtr and built motor etc and i want you to work on my car! haha, come to oregon and do some weight savings mods to my car! haha, looks like i need to not be lazy anymore!
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:01 PM   #246
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ullrichv2 View Post
your reasons are full of WIN. I forgot the other things you had done to take weight off the nose of the car. Your methodical planning is impressive! With the extra rubber, suspension work, and weight loss, this car should handle like on rails
I am hoping- as of right now the only thing I am sure of is it will be a vast improvement. I am looking forward to getting it dialed in so I have some empirical numbers to justify my decisions. A lot of time is going to need to be spen tweaking all these adjustable parts (both drvetrain and suspension) to achieve a an effective and robust end product. I am confident it will be impressive, and will probably highlight the weak links that will need to be addressed next. These things never end... But the light can be seen at the end of the tunnel for this stage Of the build, it is a bunch of minor projects to finish the project and enjoy the car for a while and relearn how to drive it. The devil is in the details
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:37 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20wrx05 View Post
I have an 99 RS coupe thats going to be around 450 whp on a mustang dyno with a dom 3xtr and built motor etc and i want you to work on my car! haha, come to oregon and do some weight savings mods to my car! haha, looks like i need to not be lazy anymore!
Sounds like its time for you to jump in on your project and start the fun. That's part of the reason I started this thread, so people could see what was involved in the seperate projects, and give some credit to the good shops that do quality work for a living. This is definitely an easy project, bang it out over a weekend and enjoy the car.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:29 PM   #248
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I just have 2 questions.

1. How do I go about acquiring the money and knowledge to rebuild an entire car by myself like this guy

and

2. How much do I have to pay you to do this to my car.

Thanks. Have a nice day. Great work btw.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:24 PM   #249
soccer05
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I just have 2 questions.

1. How do I go about acquiring the money and knowledge to rebuild an entire car by myself like this guy

and

2. How much do I have to pay you to do this to my car.

Thanks. Have a nice day. Great work btw.
Thanks for the props, everyones been very supportive, glad my decisions while extreme make sense and people have enjoyed following the build. The encouragement and technical support on problems I was struggling with has definitely gotten me through this build.

1. Just start tinkering, so far everything I have done so far is just bolt ons, the only reason it has taken so long is because I did the whole car at once. Start off with little pieces and make sure everything fits perfectly. It really isn't that difficult, just a lot of attention to detail. I think what really separates the men from the boys like me is the finesse part of the job, like doing the dialing in of a suspension overhaul and geometry to get the maximum grip. Its amazing how much knowledge goes into something as simple as rim selection. Talking with Robert Fuller at Robispec, I knew I was limited on my overall width by the rear fenders and not having the budget to cut them up and flare them at the time, so I needed to know what offset would give me the desired scrub radius to still have excellent steering feel but minimize torque steer. People that have this type of knowledge are the ones that just blow my head away. Then when you start fabricating and modifying components for end usage in a competition environment, then you are again at a whole new level of tuning. I'm still very basic, basic bolt ons and such. I am really looking forward to taking a welding class at the local junior college , so I can seam/spot weld subframes and chassis, I think that will take my knowledge and skills to a new step. Most of what I have done is through simple reading and common sense, then consulting with experts like LIC Motorsports, Robispec, Turn In Concepts, and MSI to make sure the entire parts package will work together to meet my goals. My advice- talk to the experts, do it right the first time, then jump in and start wrenching, you will be surprised what you can do if you take your time.

2. Bring your car down and we can go to work!!!! You just let me drive it when its done....

BTW just got back from vacation in Hawaii. Absolutely loved it but I am definitely still on island time. Came home and couldn't do anything, spent half a day just staring at the car but only got a half hours worth of work done. Fortunately, since that first day I have done quite a bit, pics will be updated of progress once we bring my gf computer back over that has all the pictures on it.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:20 AM   #250
soccer05
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So quite a bit of progress has been made, just finally got access to my girl's computer which is where I upload all my pictures. Here is some of the progress. Majority of interior is reinstalled, only item still to be installed is dash and passenger seat, have to install passenger seat last as the battery is under it and don't feel like disconnecting and reconnecting the positive battery terminal under the seat at the moment. Rear seat installed over TIC X Brace, fitment is oem like but with greatly enhanced rigidity. Nothing like functional parts for performance.


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