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Old 05-29-2012, 12:40 PM   #251
soccer05
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Here is a better shot of interior pieces reinstalled. Wiring has been run at this point for the battery to be relocated to directly under the seat next to my amplifier. Very tight in there with the amplifier, so I had to mount the battery a little different than I wanted which will make disconnecting the positive cable a little time consuming as I will have to remove the seat, but that is just four bolts so I am hoping down the road it won't be such a PIA. We will see, more pictures to come with the finalized mounting and wiring.


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Old 05-29-2012, 01:07 PM   #252
aeion
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Looking good! Can't wait to see this thing finally done with this incarnation haha
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:37 PM   #253
soccer05
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Minor update, just got off the phone with Big O tires in Benicia. Just put a set of 275/35zr18 Nitto NT05 on order for my Rota's. Very excited to throw these tires on and bang out my fenders for proper fitment. This will be a massive increase in mechanical grip, stepping up from a 225 series tire to 275. After installation I will post a picture up of both old and new tires stacked together to show the massive increase in rubber. Very excited!!!!
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:22 PM   #254
soccer05
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Here is a picture of a loose mockup of the area under my passenger seat. I did not want to lose my Alpine amplifier, as this is still a street driven car, and did not want to move it from its original location. I am using this area as a place to put the unecessary weight of some the concessions to make this car a daily driven car, and this is one of the best areas for the weight to be put. It lowers the cars overall moment of inertia, is the lowest place for extra weight on the vertical plane, and helps offset some of the weight of the driver sitting on the left side. This area was originally home to just my amplifier, and now is a little crammed to include my Odyssey battery. I had to compromise slightly my original mounting arrangement, and will need to unbolt the passenger seat to disconnect the battery. Time will tell if this is too big of PIA on the daily basis, if it is the battery will be moved to the right side of the trunk. I am hoping it will not be an issue, as it is only 4 bolts to remove. We will see...


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Old 05-30-2012, 01:39 PM   #255
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could you rig up a switch for the negative of the battery so you don't need to take the seat out?
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:50 PM   #256
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX8XB View Post
could you rig up a switch for the negative of the battery so you don't need to take the seat out?
That's a great idea, don't ask me why I didn't think of that. Sometimes the answer is staring right at you. I think Braille has A switch just for this. I'll have to look online tonight and try to find it. Great idea thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-30-2012, 05:08 PM   #257
WRX8XB
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looks like for SCCA rules you want it hooked up to the positive side.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1464
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:44 AM   #258
soccer05
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Finally got the correct Aeromotive fuel rails for the car. These will be installed after the clutch break in period, when I install the gtx3071 and tune on the dyno. Glad to have finally got the correct parts for the car, that would have been a real bummer to have found that out with the car apart and a dyno session scheduled. The list is definitely getting smaller...


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Old 06-01-2012, 08:41 PM   #259
FakeIt2MakeIt
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Finally posting in this thread...subscribed.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:01 AM   #260
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Just curious what you do for a living Soccer05. I'm now subscribed to this thread. I am picking up some interesting ideas for my purchased new in 2002 Bugeye. I'm currently turbo shopping and happened upon this in a search. Nice build thus far.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:41 PM   #261
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Just curious what you do for a living Soccer05. I'm now subscribed to this thread. I am picking up some interesting ideas for my purchased new in 2002 Bugeye. I'm currently turbo shopping and happened upon this in a search. Nice build thus far.
Glad you're enjoying the build and getting some ideas. We will see how effective everything is together after we dial in the chassis, but I am hopefull ... It should be decently impressive, and really shine with an sti drivetrain with effective differentials. I don't do anything special just have a decent entry level job. It's mainly a lot of doing it yourself work, as I would be easily tacking on another 8 grand in labor if I had someone else doing it. Mainly doing the research to buy quality parts the first time and using good old common sense and elbow grease to achieve my goals. It definitely puts it into perspective how much work the big name shops (lic motorsports, gst motorsports, Msi, robispec, etc.) put into the cars to achieve such amazing performance levels, and why it's worth paying the money to tap into that knowledge base. My little build is really very basic compared to what those shops are producing on a daily basis.

On a side note, I recently got my camera back so this thread will get updated and back on track. We are nearing the home stretch and I will be showing how I rebuilt the stoptech brakes, pulled my fenders (not done yet but hopefully will be starting this week) and wired in my battery kill switch. We are hopefully onto the home stretch.

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Old 06-07-2012, 03:26 AM   #262
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I know it's been a few months, but when you replaced your oil pickup, did you notice any signs of fatigue on the OEM pickup?

It's been said many times, but your build is amazingly practical and inspiring. I'm very much looking forward to your finished product, and how it performs for you on the track!
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:06 PM   #263
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Originally Posted by Jellynuts View Post
I know it's been a few months, but when you replaced your oil pickup, did you notice any signs of fatigue on the OEM pickup?

It's been said many times, but your build is amazingly practical and inspiring. I'm very much looking forward to your finished product, and how it performs for you on the track!
I didn't notice any fatiguing of the oem pickup, but since I was already in there replacing the oil pan, it made sense to upgrade the unit, and it is very reasonably priced, so I felt it was a no brainer. I feel the oil pan is a necessity for upgraded ej motors, especially the ej205, as the oem setup allows for a significant amount of oil sloshing. It is easy to upgrade to an sti oil pan, which is better than the wrx pan with baffling and a deeper sump to hold the oil by the pickup, but I felt a truely engineered baffled oil pan was cheap insurance to the oiling system when pulling significant lateral loads. It's kind of like the arm fuel rails, cheap insurance to have peace of mind concerning my fueling system. If the killer bee oil pan is the piece that keeps my motor from spinning a bearing, it will be one of the best purchases I have made. In my opinion, it is the best option unless you dry sump the motor.

Glad you've been liking the build, I have tried to make it a practical no bling build, just the necessities, but still the invoices have added up. It's funny how a complete suspension overhaul and stage two build has spiraled to a stage four maxxed out oem location turbo setup. I am hoping the numbers will be impressive, and humble some much more expensive cars. Thanks for the encouragement.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:06 AM   #264
soccer05
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Just got my Nitto NT05's from big o in Benicia. Big thanks to Kelby at Big O for helping me find the right tires for my needs. Nitto nt05 275/35-18, an aggressive fitment for sure, but with judicious fender pulling should be able to fit with 0 rubbing. It is important to be able to run these to full compression without rubbing, if I can't then I will be using LIC Motorports carbon fiber fender flares and will be doing some cutting. These tires look amazing, have a decent 200 treadware rating, and huge traction producing tread blocks. They also used a nice new rubber compund, should translate to an amazing handling car, definitely night and day better than my previous setup, even at the same tire size. So I am upgrading the quality of rubber that meets the road, producing more grip, than increasing the amount of rubber that meets the road, producing more mechanical grip. Here is a picture illustrating the difference in amount of rubber from my new setup (Nitto nt05 275/35-18 on Rota 18 inch DPT's0 and my previous setup with oem wrx wheels with 225 series BFGoodrich G force Wets. I love seeing how much more traction producing rubber I have. I will weigh the new setup to compare to the old to at least let people know the increase in unsprung weight.


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Old 06-08-2012, 11:59 AM   #265
soccer05
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And a different picture of all that tire. 3 new Nittos are almost as much rubber as all 4 of my old tires. Have to love the increase in mechanical grip from all that extra rubber. Thats a lot of tire on a subaru


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Old 06-08-2012, 04:19 PM   #266
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Should've gone to a starspecs or RS3's. With the treadwear rating comparison aside, the Nitto isn't as good of a tire but it does beat out that BFGoodrich. However, I'm interested to see what you think of them.

Keep up the work, car looks great!
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:20 PM   #267
soccer05
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Test fitting the new rim and tire package on car to determine the amount I need to pull the fenders out. Tires fit well on this rim, so not too much extra needs to be pulled.



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Old 06-10-2012, 12:09 AM   #268
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Have you tied in your power wire to the engine bay yet? Im currious how you did it.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:53 AM   #269
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abrumlev View Post
Should've gone to a starspecs or RS3's. With the treadwear rating comparison aside, the Nitto isn't as good of a tire but it does beat out that BFGoodrich. However, I'm interested to see what you think of them.

Keep up the work, car looks great!
I have heard a lot of unfavorable opinions about the Dunlop starspecs, so I didn't even consider those. The hankook rs3 is a phenomenal tire, and I thought about putting those tires on, but in the end they were too soft of a tire for my daily driver. I commute an hour 15 minutes each way to work, so I felt I would gothrough those tires way too quick. Actually it was mainly between the nittos and Bridgestone re11's, but I had been itching to try the nittos and have heard some good things to warrant giving them a shot. Good thing about tires are that once they wear out I can try a different setup.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:31 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer05 View Post
Good thing about tires are that once they wear out I can try a different setup.
+1 Agreed

However I suggest you try the starspecs before you rule them out. A guy I locally co drive with in SCCA Solo ran Starspecs for 2 seasons, tried the rs3 last season and went out and bought 2 sets of starspecs for this season lol.

They're better for heavier cars because it takes awhile to heat them up, they aren't as good as starspecs in the rain, and if they stay hot they get greasy.
That's my personal opinion but I'm definitely supportive of you trying out those Nitto's.

I dd starspecs on my Legacy. They've been on for 3k miles, Ill let you know if you they wear quickly. (I drive about 250 miles a week)
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:58 AM   #271
soccer05
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Quick mock up to check how much fender needs to be pulled. When I installed the Cusco Trailing links I ball parked the length to approximately the same length as the stock links. Obviously, I made a mistake as the wheel is definitely biased toward the front of the wheel well. Fortunately, I have adjustable trailing links, so it was a small matter to adjust the length of the link to reorient the rear suspension to its proper positioning. Technically, this adjustment only affects the rear caster of the suspension, which doesn't have nearly the same effect as caster does on the front wheels since the rear wheels are not steering. Sometimes, adjusting caster in the rear can adjust the bumpsteer of the suspension, so I will need to take some measurements and see. The wheel now is centered in the wheel arch like stock, and should not be difficult to pull the fenders to allow full suspension travel with 0 rubbing. In preparation for pulling the fenders, I spent a considerable amount of time cleaning the inside of my wheel arches so I could see exactly what needed to be done. One of the good things in having a pre 05 gd wrx is it is much easier to pull the fenders, as the car doesn't have all the extra layers of sheet metal and welds to make life difficult. The pre 05 models should be more like a typical fender roll and pull, one of the few times it is advantageous to have a pre 05 wrx.

Obviously, my rear braking is totally anemic, and I am greatly looking forward to getting an sti 6 speed installed with some aggressive diffs and rear brembos.


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Old 06-12-2012, 11:46 AM   #272
soccer05
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Image looking down at front fenders showing how much the front fenders need to be rolled and pulled. Not too bad, just a little bit of a pull should allow proper suspension articulation. PLease excuse my fat *** pale belly intruding on the picture of car goodness.


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Old 06-12-2012, 11:51 AM   #273
soccer05
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Picture of front wheel mocked up for trial fitment. Lots of room in that rim for the 355mm bbk from stoptech. I will most likely be upgrading to this kit when I wear through this set of rotors. We will see how the brake temperatures are with this kit, and if I need to upgrade I will. I have a feeling it will be necessary for track use, so I bought 18's, if the 328mm kit is adequate 17's would have been the better choice for lower unsprung weight. I have a feeling I will be upgrading though, so I didn't want to have to go buy another set of rims to clear my brakes.


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Old 06-13-2012, 01:55 PM   #274
soccer05
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Here is the picture that will probably help out the community the most with functional maximum wheel fitment concerning my thread. I searched and searched, but was unable to find a satisfactory image of wheel and tire clearance to the strut. I am running a minimal amount of rear camber due to the wrx viscous limited and center diffs and open front diffs in an effort to help the car rotate, but if I was going to do this over again I would use a 18x10.5 inch wheel with a small spacer to move the tire away from the coilover and run a 285 series tire, and gain quite a bit of extra mechanical grip. If I was going to go for bolt on fitment, I would go with a275 series tire on a 18x10 inch rim, as I feel that could fit without the spacers. Obviously, you would need adjustable links and camber plates in the rear suspension to be able to do all this and have proper suspension geometry (which is more beneficial to handling than squeezing one size larger tire in the wheelwell). I thought with my measuring I would be able to fit a 10 inch wide tire on the car, but since this was my first time measuring everything out I didn't want to make a mistake and have to buy a new set of tires. Either way, this will be fine at my current power level, but definitely could go a half inch wider without the use of spacers, which would have the tire fit more squarely on the rim and provide a slightly wider contact patch. Hope this helps those that are interested in squeezing the maximum rubber under your car with proper suspension geometry and scrub radius...


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Old 06-13-2012, 02:13 PM   #275
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Which coilovers did you go with? H&R Streets? Did you stick with the 'stock' spring rates?
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