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Old 04-04-2012, 06:43 PM   #201
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordenP View Post
Subscribed, love the build! Great work and looking forward to what the future has stored. BTW, i live about 2.5hrs south and wouldlove to check this beast out upon completion. Local friend has a built bugeye running a gt35r, engine built and tuned by EQ.
Definitely, once I get this thing back on the road we will have to set up a time to meet up. Definitely would like to see your friends gt35r. Can't wait to get his thi back on the road and start enjoying it... Until I save up enough for my 6 speed swap.

Minor update- TIC x brace installed. Very excited that tic brought this product back to the market, should greatly increase rear chassis stiffness over my whiteline strut tower brace. Pics will be posted soon, didn't have my camera with me while I was working on the car.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:59 PM   #202
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nice attention to detail.
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:05 PM   #203
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Here is a picture of the Rota DPT's bolted to the front to check for fitment. Fortunately, my offset calculations were correct, and while it comes close to, it does not contact my strut. Still, these things are huge, and you can definitely see we will need some body work on the fenders to allow full suspension range of motion without contact. I'm loving this part, as I feel a large number of hard driven subaru's settle for not using large enough rubber which can hamper their grip. Hopefully, that won't be an issue for me, preparing for the bodywork to start...


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Old 04-05-2012, 01:12 PM   #204
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That's going to look awesome. Again, great build man. Any ideas on what kind of ride height you're going to go for?
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:51 PM   #205
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That's going to look awesome. Again, great build man. Any ideas on what kind of ride height you're going to go for?
I'm not totally set on a ride height yet, my main concern is suspension geometry and travel. I have to be carefull not to go too low with the h&r coilovers, as they don't have independently adjustable strut bodies, so the lower I go the more bump travel I lose. This is a concession due to the coilovers being entry level coilovers, but I am definitely looking forward to a significant uPgrade in the future. The ride height will also not be exact as the car will be corner weighted, and it's hard to guesstimate with the fenders off the car. I'll measure my rears in the next day or so and give you a ballpark measurement. It could change significantly with the additional grip offered by the tires I will be using, as i definitely don't want any strut bottoming out. It's still coming together but I'll get you a ballpark starting point measurement. I have a lot of dialing in the suspension to do once the car is on the road.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:42 AM   #206
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Image of the rear rims being test fitted to verify clearance and fitment, as well as measure so I can determine how wide of tires can be safely run. Some might feel I am going a bit overkill on the wheel pictures, but I spent an insane amount of time doing research, measuring, and consulting with top chassis shops to get to this point of the project. Everything you do to a car comes down to these four little contact patches of rubber. There are so many nuances to the art of suspension and chassis fabrication, I know a good deal but this project has clearly illustrated to me how I have merely scratched the surface, and have so much more to learn to become a chassis guru.

I can't stress it enough to new people to the scene. It is easy to make big power, but you will shave more off your lap times with suspension and chassis tuning, and it makes for such an enjoyable car to push to it's and your limits around a track.


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Old 04-06-2012, 09:25 AM   #207
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Although you're right in saying sometimes subaru's don't utilize wide enough tires; at the same time, you can go too wide and it can slow you down.
What tires/size do you plan on running? A local buddy is running 275 for an A-street prepped STi and I think he was saying past that the gains were marginal.

Love the build, although I am still a firm believer in ditching stock location turbo's larger than 20g's, especially the ATP series. They make good power but the extra bends and restrictions of the turbo inlet kill spool.

I'd love to do your suspension setup with my brothers bugeye wagon.
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Old 04-07-2012, 04:36 AM   #208
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Although you're right in saying sometimes subaru's don't utilize wide enough tires; at the same time, you can go too wide and it can slow you down.
What tires/size do you plan on running? A local buddy is running 275 for an A-street prepped STi and I think he was saying past that the gains were marginal.

Love the build, although I am still a firm believer in ditching stock location turbo's larger than 20g's, especially the ATP series. They make good power but the extra bends and restrictions of the turbo inlet kill spool.

I'd love to do your suspension setup with my brothers bugeye wagon.
Definitely, you can go too wide where it slows you down, but I don't plan on running 335 series tires, I am hoping to squeeze a 275 series tire under my fenders, as that is the maximum size tire that will properly fit my 9.5 inch rim, and the tread width is even more optimum for a 265 or 255 series tire, but a 275 will work without sacrificing turn in response. Ideally I would like either a 10 or 10.5 inch rim, as that would let me go larger than a 275 without upgrading my rims if I felt it was necessary. And yes I have made some concessions, ideally I would be running a set of lightweight forged racing wheels (i.e. Volk RE30 18x10) with my custom uprights. I don't think that size tire will put me into the realm of reduced performance for my wrx. What I meant by my undertired comment was the fact that most cars are running between a 225 and 245 series tire (often for autocross classes), but for ultimate handling that is a tiny tire for a heavy car. If I were to do the project over again, yes I would probably ditch the stock location turbo, but I still feel twin scroll or a low mount turbo is the way to go on a subaru, and I did not have the funds to purchase a full race twin scroll kit at the time. Hopefully in the future though. In defense of the ATP, check out some of yimisports work and posts on the subject, they have had considerable success with these turbos on various customer projects. It might not be for everyone, but I am hoping this turbo will fit my needs of power, spool, boost threshold, and throttle response. Only time will tell on that...

Here is an excellent post by yimisport about a customer car using the atp gt3071 stock location turbo. Goals similar to mine (although he did have the 2.5 liters of exhaust energy to spool the turbo) and ended about 50 whp over a vf39 with similar throttle response, just what my meager 2.0 is looking for. Of course I did more research, and until it is installed this is just guestimation, but still an interesting read for stock location turbos.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=atp
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:44 PM   #209
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Here is a picture illustrating my main body work area, the rear fenders. Substantial pulling and rolling will be necessary to make these fit with no rubbing. That is one of the advantages of the Evo's, it is much easier to put bigger rubber on those cars, much less bodywork (and I am scared of bodywork). Huge, Huge thanks to Drew at t3hclap and extremeyolks on iwsti, for input and guidance on pulling these fenders. I am a newbie at bodywork, but with these articles and guidance I think I can pull it off. I will be using the write up on t3hclaps site extensively for this phase of the project. The devil is in the details, but we are slowly knocking off the things left on the to do list.


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Old 04-07-2012, 04:23 PM   #210
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Goodluck. Can't wait to see finished product!
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:35 PM   #211
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Picture illustrating the massive increase in brake rotor size even with the smaller 328mm Stoptech BBK. Can't even fit the brake package under a 17 inch rim, as the caliper sticks out too far. As you can see, the rotor fills up almost all of the rim. Very, very excited to see what this product does for braking performance, both in outright stopping distance with my sticky tires, as well as brake feel through stiffer caliper construction, better pads, fade resistance due to the increase in both diameter and thickness, etc. I can't believe how many people don't do brake upgrades on their cars, especially coming from the 240sx market. I was amazed at the outright braking performance of the oem sti Brembo's the first time I drove my dads. It is an expensive step to take in the build, but absolutely essential to performance driving to have confidence and predictability to your brake pedal.


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Old 04-10-2012, 01:45 PM   #212
soccer05
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Car is back on wheels, albeit the oem stockers. Set at approximate ride height and on perfectly level ground. It took some creative work to get the rear camber curve where I wanted it, but with my part selection, I finally am able to have the car exactly where I want it. I will be double checking the specs today, as I can't remember my final settings, but I have exactly 0 toe all the way around, and slightly narrowed the rear track to make the car more nuetral. Glad this task is nearing completion, a quality allignment is often overlooked, and never fun to do, but can absolutely transform the feel and performance of the car.



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Old 04-11-2012, 05:52 PM   #213
soccer05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeion View Post
That's going to look awesome. Again, great build man. Any ideas on what kind of ride height you're going to go for?

Sorry for the delay in updating this thread, work is crazy busy and what I have been doing doesn't really make for exciting pictures. I decided to redo my rear allignment to get the settings exactly where I wanted them. I ended up using h&r camber bolts set to full positive to increase my tire to strut clearance so I can measure and order my tires, and then used my adjustable lateral links to adjust my camber and track width. Deciding between running nitto nt05, kumho xsta xs, Yokohama advan neova, or hankook rs3. Need to look at treadware ratings and available sizing, as I do have a long commute and it is a daily driver. My rear suspension settings is exactly -1.5 degrees camber and exactly 0 toe. Ride height is currently 13 and 1/8 of an inch from center of hub to top of rear fender. I feel these are good baseline settings to begin with. I can not tell you how frustrating and time consuming doing an allignment by yourself is with all the adjustable components, there were times I was chasing my tail and definitely needed a third hand. But other than tweaking the dent suspension, initial allignment should be complete

Last edited by soccer05; 04-11-2012 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:39 PM   #214
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Subscribed! Great build so far. I hope to see this car out at Thunderhill someday.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:18 PM   #215
soccer05
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Finally finished my initial alignment and ride height. Glad that job is finally done, I am currently using the following specs.

Front is set at exactly -2.25 degrees camber
Rear is set at exactly -1.5 degrees camber

Toe is set DEAD straight all the way around.

Glad that part is finally done, setting the alignment is so time consuming, especially when it is just one person doing everything, a lot of time spent crawling out from under the car and checking measurements. This step can not be underestimated, as a roper alignment is absolutely essential to maximizing performance of your suspension and car. I am sure I will need more tweaking, but this is a good ball park to start with, and then some tweaking and corner weighting will come soon. Glad this part is behind me, not difficult just very time consuming to get it exact.

Ride height is still 13 and 1/8 of an inch from center of rear rim to top of fender, will get a measurement for the front when the fenders go back on. GLad the project is slowly moving....
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:09 PM   #216
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Picture of TIC X Brace installed. Huge thanks to TIC for bringing this product back to the market, everything I have heard about this product is amazing for a chassis brace to be so functional and feelable. Just by looking at it it is clear how much it will increase the rear end rigidity of the suspension. Also, thanks to TIC for the excellent customer service, responding to my phone calls and helping out with this build, as everyone in the community knows TIC is an amazing shop with high quality parts and exceptional customer service. Definitely recommend them to anyone doing work on Subarus.

After hearing horror stories about the install, I must say it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Definitely had a few moments of frustration, but overall vey well machined, well fitting part. Looking forward to the results once everything is back on the road.


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Old 04-17-2012, 02:44 PM   #217
soccer05
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Hood scoop and splitter removed, to be replaced with new oem sti hood scoop and splitter combination from a jdm bugeye sti. This splitter/scoop is substantially larger than the oem wrx combination, and should substantially increase the cooling to the larger aps tmic. As you can see, the hood has also been measured, taped off, and ready for cutting to install the run cool hood louvers. These should substantially increase the cooling systems efficiency by not allowing a build up of pressure in the engine bay. These scoops will be taken down to a paint shop along with the hood scoop, and side skirts, and painted wrb to match the car. I am really liking the functional purposefull look of these parts, they really make the front of the car look mean.

More pics of the progress to come in the next couple of days...


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Old 04-18-2012, 01:36 PM   #218
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Doing a great job with everything as im sure you are aware of. I check in on this everyday. And I love how you give feedback on parts and installs on what you are using and doing.
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:21 PM   #219
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Front Fenders reinstalled, car is starting to come together, waiting on a new defi egt gauge to arrive off back order, then a couple of loose ends, and then the car will be on the road to my chassis shop to get corner balanced and reverify allignment. Getting excited, then its break in time for the clutch, then take it down to the shop and install the heavy hitting performance parts.



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Old 04-20-2012, 03:54 PM   #220
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very cool build!
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:19 PM   #221
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Minor update- entire interior except the dash is stripped from car so I can remove all sound deadening to remove as much weight as possible. Went to my local auto paint supply and picked up some por-15 to paint over where sound deadening is removed and protect against corrosion. Will be removing the dash this week to remove all the sound deadening under the dash. I will be reinstalling the carpet, just removing some dead weight. Currently contemplating flocking the dash while I have everything out, anybody have a good experience with a particular brand of flocking kit.

It's funny how these projects spiral, stripping the interior was a response to my wiring for my battery relocation being delayed until next week... It will be nice to drop a couple pounds off an already heavy car tho.

Any good experiences with a particular flocking kit please chime in. Thanks
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:08 PM   #222
soccer05
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In the process of stripping out all the sound deadening in the interior, initially I was skeptical about the weight savings but so far it has proven worth the time. I got called in to work for some ot, but was able to strip all the sound deadening rear of the b pillars, and so far the bag weighs 6-8 pounds, and i still have the driver and passenger footwells and all the sound deadening under the dash. Initially I was skeptical on the amount of work involved compared to the weight savings, but so far I am pleasantly pleased. Just be ready to paint after as the metal under the sound deadening is unpainted. I will update with total weights when I finish. Pics to come this week, I know I've been lagging...
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:51 AM   #223
soccer05
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Hood has been cut for the hood louvers. Very happy with this modification, just need to make time next week to take the louvers, hood scoop, sideskirts, etc. down to the body shop to be painted oem subaru wrb. Waiting on the quote from them, I would really like to be able to pain tmy hood and front bumper, as they do have some marks from wear and tear, since it is so easy for stains to get under the subaru clearcoat and permanently blemish the finish. Not sure, we will have to see how the quote comes in. So basically, all that is left for the hood is to predrill the holes for the rivets (being painted wrb as well) and then ready to install after the body shop. Just need to finish my interior sound deadening removal and rewiring, then fill with fluids and take to the shops for the couple of tasks remaining. Slowly getting there...

Really impressed with the hood louvers for the price, very simple mod and much cheaper than a carbon hood, in my opinion money better spent elsewhere for a relatively heavy wet carbon fiber hood setup...


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Old 04-27-2012, 02:18 AM   #224
soccer05
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The current state of the interior of my car. Interior seats, braces, carpeting, and trim have been stripped out to allow for effecient removal of the sound deadening loaded into the wrx. I was pleasantly surprised at the amount of weight that I have already removed from the car, since when I started this process I thought I would be wasting my time. I have currently removed the sound deadening from the picture all the way back to the trunk, but the front seat areas still need removed, as well as the heavy matting under the dash. I have already removed 6-8 pounds of needless weight from the car, and it is widely accepted the majority of the weight comes from under the dash. More to come, I am hoping if I do not get called into work this weekend to make substantial progress on the car, as I have been too busy with work lately and have not made as much progress as I would have hoped. We are slowly moving forward...


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Old 04-27-2012, 09:47 AM   #225
soccer05
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Currently removing the remainder of the dash controls to get to the heater core so I can remove the rear seat heater vents, as I need to remove them to get to the matting under the dash. Anybody with tips that could shorten my struggle let me know, as I believe I am going to have to remove the entire lower part of the dash to get access to the heater core and remove these rear vents. Any tips or links - let me know..


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