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Old 11-27-2011, 04:28 PM   #1
StealthScooBC
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Default Help Me (and others!) Make The Ultimate Winter Machine!

(Copied from VIC forum: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2275557 )

Hey Alaskans!

I recently bought an 06 WRX this fall. I live in Kelowna (Southern BC), but I work in Fort Nelson (and farther up north) for the oil & gas industry. Temperatures up there can get as low as -50C, making for a less-than-perfect environment for (any) vehicle. I did some searching and didn't find a thread covering the temperature extremes I will be facing, so I figured I would try to compile a list of mods/parts/tricks to making the north more bearable to drive in.

I think the main factors are Reliability, Handling, and Visibility (Yes, those snow storms in the previous COD *ARE* real!)

Here's what I have so far:

* = New addition.

RELIABILITY:
- *High Temperature Thermostat
- Block Heater (Mine doesn't have one, anyone with experience?)
- Battery Upgrade (Optimax *Blue Top)
- De-Icing solutions (I know there is acidic windshield wash out there. How well does it work? Add vinegar? I have the heated seats to defrost my ass and the heated wipers.)
- Extreme Temperature Fluids (Oil, Coolant, Trans fluid, etc.)
- Getting Stuck (It happens. Collapsible shovel, sand/salt, tow straps, I hear of grippy plates you can slide under/behind the wheels to give you something other than ice to get some momentum on. Any experience with these? I would laugh if someone had a Winch!)
- *Chains - to lay down instead of plates.
- *Survival Kit (already covered)

HANDLING:
- Proper wintertires (When the snow isn't 2 feet of powder, you are driving on an ice rink. Since the majority of the highway up until Prince George is well-kept/sanded, I want to avoid studs. Tire recommendations? *Yokohama A034* Is there something lighter-duty than chains that I can add if things get rough?)
- Subtle lift (Benefits in deep ass snow? Don't think the front end would like having a Plow attached!) *Foz setup*
- Weight Distribution? (Added trunk weight beneficial?)

VISIBILITY:
- HID conversion. *May reflect.
- Light bar (I don't see too many for the 06 WRX. Anyone use one?) *Rocket Rally/Rally Innovations*
- High-contrast Fog Lights (I hear amber/yellow tint increases contrast? Experience?) *
- Heavy Duty Wipers (Any experience with the PIAA wipers?)
- Mud Flaps (for the people following!) *Rally Armour - goes without saying!

That's all I have for now! Chime in! Any other factors to be considered? Additional equipment?
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:52 PM   #2
aleutdude
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Block heater: Most cars bought new have them installed before they leave the lot up here. I love my heater-it really makes a huge differrence when starting up.
HID conversion: I've run a conversion when I had the '06 front-end on my car. It was ok, but the retrofit I did using Morimoto mini H1 projectors was waaaay better and no glare.
Tires: I swear by studded tires. The Nordmans I've been running suck but they are better by far than all seasons. Many here swear by Blizzaks. I plan on getting I-Pikes or Cooper studded snowtires next.
Lifts: No 1rst hand experience-Inkpreza wanna chime in?
Lightbar:I plan on installing Hella Blackmagic driving lights which turn on with my highbeams. I ran Lamin-X yellow film on my headlights before the Bugeye conversion and I liked it but it didn't color-shift very much into the yellow spectrum. I may use them on my Bugeye fogs.
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Old 11-27-2011, 05:06 PM   #3
StealthScooBC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleutdude View Post
Block heater: Most cars bought new have them installed before they leave the lot up here. I love my heater-it really makes a huge differrence when starting up.
HID conversion: I've run a conversion when I had the '06 front-end on my car. It was ok, but the retrofit I did using Morimoto mini H1 projectors was waaaay better and no glare.
Tires: I swear by studded tires. The Nordmans I've been running suck but they are better by far than all seasons. Many here swear by Blizzaks. I plan on getting I-Pikes or Cooper studded snowtires next.
Lifts: No 1rst hand experience-Inkpreza wanna chime in?
Lightbar:I plan on installing Hella Blackmagic driving lights which turn on with my highbeams. I ran Lamin-X yellow film on my headlights before the Bugeye conversion and I liked it but it didn't color-shift very much into the yellow spectrum. I may use them on my Bugeye fogs.
Quick reply!

Block heater is a definite. What about an oil pan heater? Pointless with block heater?
HID's: Was going with the morimoto bi-xenon kit. How was the install?
Tires: I want studs, but in southern BC (half of my commute/majority of my driving) they just aren't needed. They'd get chewed up on the dry highway pretty quick I would think.
Lift: Thinking about a foz setup. Maybe some camber plates with a riser.
Lightbar: I'm a big PIAA fan, but those look pretty damn good too. The rally innovations bar allows for 4 lights (2 low/2 high), thinking of 2 long range beams for the high mount, and 2 wider angle lights for the bottom to supplement my fogs.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:01 PM   #4
aleutdude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthScooBC View Post
Quick reply!

Block heater is a definite. What about an oil pan heater? Pointless with block heater?
HID's: Was going with the morimoto bi-xenon kit. How was the install?
Tires: I want studs, but in southern BC (half of my commute/majority of my driving) they just aren't needed. They'd get chewed up on the dry highway pretty quick I would think.
Lift: Thinking about a foz setup. Maybe some camber plates with a riser.
Lightbar: I'm a big PIAA fan, but those look pretty damn good too. The rally innovations bar allows for 4 lights (2 low/2 high), thinking of 2 long range beams for the high mount, and 2 wider angle lights for the bottom to supplement my fogs.
It only gets minus 28.8c at its coldest where I live so an oilpan heater and perhaps even a battery blanket would be needed ay minus 50c.
The HID kit is easy to install but check the rotational alignment before reinstalling the headlight lens.
Some have said studless tires get chewed up on bare pavement faster than studded tires since they use a soft compound.
I've heard the RA lightbar isn't all that good but if you aren't able to make your own it may be your only option.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:14 PM   #5
edo2000
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Block heater: you probably already know; get the part from your subaru dealer. Easy install, just drain the coolant, remove a 2" plug on the bottom of the block, screw in the block heater, replace the coolant, route the electrical cord to the front of the car, done. Requires a large metric hex socket for the drain plug, the dealer can tell you which size. The heater is inexpensive, less than $30.

I have used oil pan heaters, they are definitely an advantage at 50 below, some folks have reported that they degrade(blacken) the oil more quickly when they are used a lot, especially when temperatures are warmer.

Tow straps: excellent idea. I use a 25 ft. long, 2" wide nylon strap with metal hooks. I also carry a 3 ft. long chain(to provide an attach point to the car if the tow hooks aren't oriented correctly for the situation.

I also have a rally innovations light bar with hid's.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:45 PM   #6
inkpreza
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If you go for a Foz lift forget the camber plates, just get some rear camber bolts and that will give you plenty of adjustment. The Foz strut/spring combo will give you 2.5" - 3" of lift. I would also recommend getting the Foz trailing arm mounts to re- center the rear wheels.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:19 AM   #7
Rakaz
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A funny side note. My uncle had a 79 dl wagon that did have a winch on it. I doubt that it would be practical though. Seriously, the eye bolt that screws into the front bumper is a nice tow point. Make sure that you have one. It comes in the tool kit. I carry couple of shackes with my tow rope so I can connect up to a variety of different vehicles. I have been running nokian hakkapeliitta studded tires for many years with very good results. I was under the impression that studs were forbidden in Canada. I have also found that if you lower one or both of your rear windows a crack you will have an easier time keeping the windows from frosting up on the inside when it gets really cold.
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:12 AM   #8
kbeefy
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you can get a set of cable-chains, lighter duty than actual chains, more than enough for a car. They come in a nice little carry case about the size of a milk jug, be good insurance if you anticipate driving in more than 2-3 inches of snow, especially packed.

I'm a fan of lights, sounds like you'll be doing some driving so I'd go w/ an HID conversion and maybe a lo-pro LED lightbar.

As mentioned, block heater + pan heater + option of batt and tranny heater is a good idea.

There are extra cold wiper fluids available, but still only to -40f.

Might want to service the antifreeze and make sure it's good to your anticipated temps.

I like the redtop optima, any reason in particular you want the bluetop?

I agree about non-studded winter tires wearing out quickly when driven on dry tarmac, I've heard if it's above 40f they go really fast.

traction mats are a great idea, I've used floormats in a pinch but some roll-up expandable steel or chain ones would be prefect, and way faster than tire chains for a quick fix.
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:13 AM   #9
DoWork
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The RI bar is junk from what I have read. It bounces and folds up like wet paper in any sort of impact. Primitive makes custom lightbars, or you could make your own. Thats what we did at least. Ours has proven to be bomb proof thus far.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:44 AM   #10
StealthScooBC
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Nice, lots of good info here.

Interesting input on the rally innovations bar, I definitely would like some added protection as well as a place to mount lights. I'll look into getting one custom made for me. I want to stay away from LEDS - I think they are a bit BLINGY for my liking, and doubt they'd give me as good light as, say, 2x PIAA ATPs and 2x PIAA Foul Weathers.

Kbeefy - I figured the blue top since it had more CCA than the red top.

Sounds like there are alot of different ways to get unstuck. I'll have to just try different methods. I think a sand/salf combo, those light duty tire chains and some traction pads to get going would be a great combo.

Battery blankie sounds like a good idea - such a bitch taking it on and off.

Definitely going to change my fluids. Washer fluid, coolant/antifreeze, just did my tranny, and of course oil.

Good info on the foz setup inkpreza.

Good info on the tow strap/chain combos. Ill add a chain to that list.

Can anyone confirm studless tires wearing out faster than studded? I would think studs would wear off quite quickly on a dry highway. As far as them being illegal, we have PLENTY of idiots in KELOWNA (where the roads are IMMACULATE compared to many) using studs. I have to laugh at those people. They keep em on like 2 months after the snows gone too...GRINDS MY GEARS.

Awesome info guys - no better people to ask than you alaskans!
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:44 PM   #11
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Go on optimas website and read about battery applications. The blue top is not a car battery it's either a deep cycle or starting only battery depending on case color.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:03 PM   #12
edo2000
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Another good winter mod is to replace the transmission and rear differential gear lube with a good quality synthetic. I used Royal Purple, but there are lots of choices. You'll notice a big difference in the ease of starting out at temps below -20F, and I believe that translates into less wear as well.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:07 PM   #13
DoWork
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OP, If you decide to have a bar fabbed, let me know. I can get you some pics of ours so you can get some idea. I will offer any advice I can too.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:18 PM   #14
AKSubie
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Lots of good info on this thread for you. Up in fairbanks, where they recenty. Rome cold records of -41 & -49, many cars have the "fairbanks cold weather kit" which commonly is the block heater, oil pan heater and battery blanket, plugged into a 3-1 plug thing then of course, the extension cord.

I have no knowledge of lighting but have a couple ideas for retro fitting moose lights, as i commute on the highway and run out to the girls parents further out. But lightforce have consistently. Een the preffered light it seems. As evident on all the semi and trucks up here.

Regarding tires, i am one of the few proponents for studless. I am on my 3rd set (for the 3rd car) and am very satisfied with them. Ive got blizzaks on the rado, and nokian icepts on the s4. They have ~90% of the traction as studs imho. Since i commute on dry pavement i prefer them over studs. I will however agree that at intersections where there is packed ice, studs would require less love during a stop. Most i know that run studless get ~3 seasons out of them, studded seem to last more like 5? So life cycle id agree studded rubber lasts longer, but dependent on amount of dry pavement could affect the stud life. I am aware they now have smart studs, where the dont eat up the tarmac as badly, however i understand they are temp activated?? IF that is the case, then you could still have studs activated on dry roads when its cold. What type of tires do most run where you are?
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:31 PM   #15
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I wish we had a local source for green diamond tires up here.

http://www.greendiamondtire.com/productswest.html

Nokian rubber is too soft for my aggressive driving and the variable conditions we get here in south central Alaska.

A good first aid kit, lots of road flares, hand warmers, extra winter clothing including a warm hat with ear protection as well as gloves, a good tow/snatch strap, a snow shovel and a small tool kit…..will assist in making your ultimate winter rig more capable.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomadgene View Post
A good first aid kit, lots of road flares, hand warmers, extra winter clothing including a warm hat with ear protection as well as gloves, a good tow/snatch strap, a snow shovel and a small tool kitÖ..will assist in making your ultimate winter rig more capable.
Reminds me I need to put m winter gear in the car.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:45 PM   #17
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Simard Automotive in Fairbanks used to sell Green Diamond, I'm not sure if they still do or not.

Also, for the "Fairbanks Kit" I usually add a trans pan heater pad too. It just helps get the fluid moving when it's so cold. I've done it to my automatics and manual transmissions.

The thing that annoys me the most is that the doors bounce off the jambs instead of latching. I'm pretty sure it's the weather-stripping that's cold and stiff. Still a peeve of mine in the -20 and lower temps.
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:55 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthScooBC View Post
I want to stay away from LEDS - I think they are a bit BLINGY for my liking, and doubt they'd give me as good light as, say, 2x PIAA ATPs and 2x PIAA Foul Weathers.

The new LED's will suprise you. Prices are still pretty steep, but I was told they're coming down as they become more popular.

I'm still a fan of HID's, they're now available pretty cheap and put any incadescent/halogen light to shame.
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:18 PM   #19
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If you (or others) might see a variety of cold temps, not just extreme - consider mounting a thermoswitch on the oil pan heater. That way it can be hardwired with the other heaters, but you don't have to worry about torching your oil on marginally cold days. That said, unless the heater is HUGE I doubt it will keep up with the environmental losses long before there is significant oil damage.
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:08 PM   #20
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Skip the high temp thermostat. It wont do much and could require changing parameters in your ECU. It will also effect the tune itself in some cases where the tune is instructed to do things to compensate for high engine temps. The standard temp thermo is fine. No matter what temp you put in there the thermostat remains shut until the car comes up to temp. If its to cold to come up to temp then a higher temp thermostat does nothing.

Get a battery blanket these seem to help as well.
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:56 PM   #21
JesseL
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I hate battery blankets and battery pads... I have seen them strand people way more than they are worth.

I know many people will argue with this, and I am not a very good internet argue'er (lol), my 'rant' in person makes a lot more sense than this prolly will.

Most of these issues address lead acid batteries, cause lets face it, if you have a gel or optima, you don't need a heater anyway... and that is my recommendation, spend some $$ on a good battery and be done with it.

My experience with a lot of this is from owning 25-30 cars between the wife and I, working at a service station for years, and my current job @ the hospital, where we have to frequently jump start peoples piles of ****.
BUT:
Lead acid battery can and do leak, look @ the bottom of your battery tray, there is prolly some grody white crustiness in there. That white stuff eats away the pads and blankets. Heaters, once you degrade the circuitry, short out, popping the breaker your plugging into. So now the rest of the winterization doesnít have power, and @ -40, she isn't gonna start.
Also, when they short out I have seen them cause a fire. (If the circuit your plugging into isnít properly protected)

If your battery is just getting weak, just starting to die, a battery heater will mask the symptoms that could give you a heads up on this issue. Until the day the battery straight up fails, where, if there was no heater, the symptoms wouldn't be masked, and you have a chance to catch it, and not leave you stranded. (Granted you can just get a jump start, not a huge deal, but still an issue)

I have other theories of why I donít like them, but these are 3 issues I have personally experienced, seen happen, or had to Ďdeal withí.
Thatís the bulk of my rant on battery heaters.

As far as lights, OEM lighting is fine 95% of the time up here, but that other 5% of the time itís night to have some bright high-beams or some HID flood lights. The big issue up here, IMO, is to aim your floods towards the ditchesÖ a lot of critters like to come runniní out of there.

I had never owned a set of snow tires my whole life up here. And I usually had 2wd rigs. Granted, I have a lot of experience driving in these conditions, and I wouldnít recommend what I do.
I say HAD NEVER, for when I got my STi, it was sold to me with a winter/summer set. Doing tires for 4-5 years throughout school years, I wasnít very excited to swap the 45 series tiers, so I didnít. I figured, eh, AWD Iíll be fine, just remember, AWD donít help you STOP. 3 or 4 months into winter, I went and changed themÖ it was very slippery with the stock tiers, and to date is still the only rig Iíve put winter tires on!

As far as getting stuckÖ I have towing on my insurance, 3 bucks every 6 monthsÖ I think its 4 or 6 free tows a year.

Fluids- Most performance fluids do very well in the cold also, Iíve never had Ďspecialí fluids for winter. I know a lot of people move to a thinner oil during winter months, but I donít.

Red top vs blue top:
Someone much smarter than me was rattling on about blue vs yellow vs red for cars, and for any car application, itís a Red Top. Has to do with deep cycle vs peak cycle, and the open circuit voltages, # of starts on a red vs the rest, the acid makeup, blahblahblah, my eyes and ears glazed over. Iíve always bought Red tops.
Quick google search, eyes even glazed over starting to read this lol:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/faqs.php
http://www.optimabatteries.com/produ....php#deepCycle

Again, just my .02c, opnions are like ********, everyone has one.
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