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Old 12-10-2011, 01:56 PM   #1
some dude
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Default Is it time to increase my oil weight?

I have a 2006 WRX with 110,000 miles on the odometer. I have been using mobil 1 5W-30 since the beginning (basically). It currently consumes no oil, but I am thinking about switching to a thicker oil as the car ages. Rotella-T comes to mind, but I worry about 15 weight on cold starts in Michigan. The only option with Rotella is 15W-40 right? Should I switch oil if I don't have any problems? I pretty much drive like a grampa 98% of the time, with the occasional pull to readline. Any other suggestions are welcome.
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:06 PM   #2
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if its not burning oil, i wouldnt worry about it. your oil needs to be able to flow and the higher weight oils will not flow in cold temps.

when the engine is warm 10w-30 and 5w-30 are the same thing (thats the 30 weight part). i wouldnt put 15w-40 in the car, specially in michigan.

if youre dying to do something, in the warmer months you could run 10w-30. but stick with the 5w-30 in michigan when its cold
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some dude View Post
I have a 2006 WRX with 110,000 miles on the odometer. I have been using mobil 1 5W-30 since the beginning (basically). It currently consumes no oil, but I am thinking about switching to a thicker oil as the car ages. Rotella-T comes to mind, but I worry about 15 weight on cold starts in Michigan. The only option with Rotella is 15W-40 right? Should I switch oil if I don't have any problems? I pretty much drive like a grampa 98% of the time, with the occasional pull to readline. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VVagonFTW View Post
if its not burning oil, i wouldnt worry about it. your oil needs to be able to flow and the higher weight oils will not flow in cold temps.

when the engine is warm 10w-30 and 5w-30 are the same thing (thats the 30 weight part). i wouldnt put 15w-40 in the car, specially in michigan.

if youre dying to do something, in the warmer months you could run 10w-30. but stick with the 5w-30 in michigan when its cold
Do you throw your oil on a scale before you put it in your car?

Oil is not measured in "weights".
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:14 PM   #4
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fine, dynamic viscocity rating of 5w-30 is good for all temps, specially cold temps in michigan

Last edited by VVagonFTW; 12-10-2011 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:18 PM   #5
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fine, dynamic viscocity rating of 5w-30 is good for all temps, specially cold temps in michigan
Sorry, but it seriously bugs me. This isn't fast and the furious. There is nothing having to do with "weight" in any oil rating.
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:32 PM   #6
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i understand the rating is a viscosity rating but the units that viscosity is measured in are too complicated for most people to understand when looking at a bottle.

im not sure where the 'weight' term came from, but its been accepted as the term most people use for oil. while its not correct, many people call an engine a 'motor' but we all know what they are talking about.
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some dude View Post
I have a 2006 WRX with 110,000 miles on the odometer. I have been using mobil 1 5W-30 since the beginning (basically). It currently consumes no oil, but I am thinking about switching to a thicker oil as the car ages. Rotella-T comes to mind, but I worry about 15 weight on cold starts in Michigan. The only option with Rotella is 15W-40 right? Should I switch oil if I don't have any problems? I pretty much drive like a grampa 98% of the time, with the occasional pull to readline. Any other suggestions are welcome.
rotella is available as 5w40 as well and many run that ( i run it in the summer)
if your car is stock or close to stock and you drive "normally" then 5w30 is fine as it is whats recommended by subaru... however mobil 1 5w30 has been known to shear to 5w20 so i personally would run another more trusted brand
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:47 PM   #8
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the 15w40 rotella isnt synthetic.....the 5w40 IS
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:50 PM   #9
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I use royal purple 10w-30
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:44 PM   #10
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I use 10w-40 in my car...I live in Maine...no problems so far.
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:48 PM   #11
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Rotella T-6 Full Synthetic 5w-40

Been running it in my last three subies and 0 problems with them thus far.

Almost all my friends use the same oil.

Shell Rotella---http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TXU4I2/ref=asc_df_B004TXU4I21815791?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ta g=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B004T XU4I2
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:35 PM   #12
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If it doesn't burn oil don't change it. Change the oil weight depending on the operating temperature not car age.
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:06 PM   #13
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We use 15w40 in army vehicles. That crap sucks when the temperatures drop pretty low out of nowhere and it makes starting everything harder.

In my legacy I ran 5W30. On negative days, it took a good few tries to get it running in the mornings. After a half hour of so (short commute here on base) the idle would level out and it wouldn't run so hard. For especially cold times, some people go 0w30.

As far as "weight" goes, its a term a lot of people use. In differentials we run 80W90 and its really tells people that's some heavy friggin oil. Because, honestly, you wouldn't want that grade of oil in anything other than diff's. I know a few people who run it on their civilian vehicles.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life

Sorry, but it seriously bugs me. This isn't fast and the furious. There is nothing having to do with "weight" in any oil rating.
The proper term is grade, but even some oil companies use the term weight on their web sites.

To the OP, it's usually a good idea to stick with what works although the Mobil1 High Mileage 5W-30 has a more robust additive pack and a thicker viscosity at 100C than the regular stuff. It also has additional seal swellers if you have leaks. A used oil analysis would be a good starting point to help you make your decision.

-Dennis
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
The proper term is grade, but even some oil companies use the term weight on their web sites.

To the OP, it's usually a good idea to stick with what works although the Mobil1 High Mileage 5W-30 has a more robust additive pack and a thicker viscosity at 100C than the regular stuff. It also has additional seal swellers if you have leaks. A used oil analysis would be a good starting point to help you make your decision.

-Dennis
i did an oil analysis and they will check for coolant in your oil and some will do flashpoint checks to find fuel in your oil. they are helpful, but your oil filter will filter out a lot of metals and stuff so it still makes it difficult to pin point the condition of bearings and such. i did an oil analysis and everything was great cause my Purolator PureOne filter cleaned the oil so well, i spun a bearing a couple weeks later.

i dont mean to devalue the info an oil analysis gives you, its great info, but how you have treated the car makes the biggest difference.

i would run Valvoline synthetic or Valvoline high mileage 5w-30 if you drive your car normally 95% of the time, as you say you do.
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:33 PM   #16
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I like that Rotella has a 5W-40 option. I had a UOA done at about 70k and it came back perfect. I like thin cold oil so just wondering if I should switch to a thicker oil at operating temp as the engine wears and tolerences (increase?). But, if its not burning any oil right now and I don't have any problems then maybe there is no need to switch? What harm could come if I did switch even though it appears my current oil works just fine?
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:19 AM   #17
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thicker oil flows slower. if anything did happen, you could starve parts of the engine for oil while running. it wont make a huge difference, but the engine was designed to run with the 5w-30.

if it doesnt burn oil, keep it the way it is
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VVagonFTW View Post
thicker oil flows slower. if anything did happen, you could starve parts of the engine for oil while running. it wont make a huge difference, but the engine was designed to run with the 5w-30.

Please crack open your manual and read it... 5w-30 of ANY oil is about the worst choice you can make.
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:35 AM   #19
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Please crack open your manual and read it... 5w-30 of ANY oil is about the worst choice you can make.
This this this this this.

Especially Mobil 1 5w30 which probably has the worst reputation out of all other 5w30 on this forums from what I have seen.

As for cold starts with Rotella 15w40... I am running Rotella 15w40 in my Legacy, and I live up in Connecticut. Cold starts are not a problem, it just builds oil pressure up a little slower with a cold start, but the pressure is still there so there should not be an issue. I have HLAs, if there was a pressure issue, they would tap away and I would know. Starts up in 10* weather, cranks slower, but starts.
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:48 PM   #20
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^ So really, Rotella 5w-40 would be better for you. Especially in the winter. What would it mean to my engine to run a 40W oil at running temp? It will be the same viscosity as my current oil as both Rotella and Mobil 1 have 5 'weight' for cold temp. Since the engine is aging, I would think that having 40 might be a little better. Plus there is now issue of oil starvation on cold starts.
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:47 PM   #21
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The 'W' means winter, not weight. Not kidding, look it up.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:49 AM   #22
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Actually, "W" doesn't mean winter or weight according to the SAE. It's just used to show a multi-grade oil and doesn't stand for anything. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-107/ Even some oil web sites state that "w" means winter so it's very common to think that. But just because an oil is a 5W, doesn't mean that all 5W's are the same viscosity in all "cold" temps. A 5W's cold cranking results are measured at -30C/-22F. http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm

Before a 5W-30 and 5W-40 get down to -22F, the 5W-40 will be thicker in most temps. You can get a better idea of an oil's viscosity at various temps by plugging the 40C and 100C results into a viscosity calculator. http://widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html At 0C/32F, RT6 has a viscosity of 756.8 cSt's and M1 5W-30 has a viscosity of 490.

-Dennis
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:14 PM   #23
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Actually, "W" doesn't mean winter or weight according to the SAE. It's just used to show a multi-grade oil and doesn't stand for anything. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-107/ Even some oil web sites state that "w" means winter so it's very common to think that. But just because an oil is a 5W, doesn't mean that all 5W's are the same viscosity in all "cold" temps. A 5W's cold cranking results are measured at -30C/-22F. http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm

Before a 5W-30 and 5W-40 get down to -22F, the 5W-40 will be thicker in most temps. You can get a better idea of an oil's viscosity at various temps by plugging the 40C and 100C results into a viscosity calculator. http://widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html At 0C/32F, RT6 has a viscosity of 756.8 cSt's and M1 5W-30 has a viscosity of 490.

-Dennis
Very interesting. And to confirm, is RT6 = Rotella 5W-40?

edit: a small search confirmed ^ yes

Last edited by some dude; 12-18-2011 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:23 PM   #24
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Please crack open your manual and read it... 5w-30 of ANY oil is about the worst choice you can make.
the manual says 5w30?

a little confused if im looking at the right things or not but the manual calls for 5w-30.
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:55 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by VVagonFTW View Post
the manual says 5w30?

a little confused if im looking at the right things or not but the manual calls for 5w-30.
Yor manual advises that 5W-30 is preferred for the best FUEL ECONOMY and that thicker viscosities (10W-30 isn't necessarily thicker) are required in higher temps and recommended in severe conditions. If it doesn't say this, you have the wrong manual. Stand by for a picture of this from Uncle Scotty.

-Dennis
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