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Old 12-15-2011, 10:18 PM   #1
lh0628
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Default Cracked radiator hose, now overheating and no heat, need some help

The other day while driving, the upper radiator hose decided to give up and sprayed coolant everywhere. I managed to drive the car home (5 miles below freezing temp) with stops in between, the temp gauge never went over redline. Car drove fine except there were a lot of white smoke coming from the hood passenger side.

So today I replaced the hose, drained the old coolant (only about 1/3 gallon left), added new coolant. I was only able to put in one gallon including the overflow tank.

I started the car, brought it up to operating temp, started to raise the rpm to 2K, and turned the fan all the way up. The radiator fan started to run and a few minutes in the temp gauge started to rise, I had to shut it off before it reached redline.

A few things I noticed, the coolant was dripping at the drain plug (the nose right before the plug). The upper radiator hose was firm and warm, while the lower one is cold and easy to squeeze, I don't think there is any coolant there.

Any idea why it's doing this? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Should I keep adding coolant in?
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:23 PM   #2
MY EJ20TTTTTT
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jack the front of the car up as high as your jack will go, as you have a air in the motor / hoses. If there is an air pocket around the water temperature sending probe, the temperature will rise to red line. Make sure to burp the coolant from the hoses while the front of your cars raised up. turn your car on (parking brake engaged) and wait to see all the air bubbles rise to the top. turn off engine when it decides to evacuate the coolant reservoir.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:24 PM   #3
MY EJ20TTTTTT
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i have done this 6 times in 5 years, and the first time replacing my thermostat, I didnt know about the air pockets, and my car overheated getting on the interstate.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:59 PM   #4
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A little update. I turned the drain plug another 1/4 turn and couldn't get it to turn anymore by hand, the dripping seems to have stopped.

I repeated the burping process a couple of times now. I was able to add a few times each time through the reservoir and the overflow tank level seems to be dropping. That's a good thing I guess.

Is it ok to add the subaru conditioner last?

P.S. it's not fun working outside in 15 degree cold.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:19 PM   #5
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Why even chance it??? doing damage to a car because you want to cheap out on a tow, oh helll.... walk home.


I agree, burp the system, and pray things didn't fry.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:39 PM   #6
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Good point, we'll do stupid **** at times, carry on.

After I put in another 1/4 gallon in, I drove it to the gas station to get some gas (only 2 miles away). I was able to hit my target boost, does that mean my engine and turbo is likely fine?

The car did overheat still and no heat, and I'm still not getting anything at the lower radiator hose. I'm going to keep adding more and see what happens.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lh0628 View Post
Good point, we'll do stupid **** at times, carry on.

After I put in another 1/4 gallon in, I drove it to the gas station to get some gas (only 2 miles away). I was able to hit my target boost, does that mean my engine and turbo is likely fine?

The car did overheat still and no heat, and I'm still not getting anything at the lower radiator hose. I'm going to keep adding more and see what happens.

Think about it.


1. compression means you're holding pressure... so no leaks.

2. Why the hell would you risk it... why put your engine through stress it didn't need.


If you make boost, you're probably fine, it means you can hold pressure under load...... your piston rings aren't fried and your whole boost system is intact.



Next time... don't risk it. sounds like you're golden though.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:22 AM   #8
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Thanks.

Only issue is the small leak at the drain plug. It probably drips one drop every 5 minutes.

Also can you add the Subaru coolant conditioner after putting in the coolant?
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:04 PM   #9
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Same issues coolant issues such. First go to Utozone and rental a pressure tester. MKe Ure to clamp the overflow hose. Do the pressure thing and search for leaks..... If nothing it could be air or thermostat. I replaced the thermo and still had issues! Finally I went to a perfect shop and had IT VACUME FILLED. This checks for hose leaks etc.. ALSO guarantees no air. Fix was 200 duckies. In retrospect should have done it from the beginning. I definitely learned more about the whole coolant system than I ever wanted.... Fyi the shop has national titles for subaru and the President of spt had his car being worked on at same shop... So yeah they know these cars and the air issues.... Said only real way to fix
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:53 PM   #10
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Just did hose and thermo swap and learned the hard way how much coolant and how long it takes to do it yourself. I pretty much let her run and burped her til she ran normal temp. Took about an hour to do it manually. Good luck
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:00 PM   #11
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Run it with the cap off and fill it as the air bubbles out. That's how I've always gotten the air out
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:00 PM   #12
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Yes when I was burping the system, the temp gauge kept rising and that really bummed me out; that and it took me a long time to get the coolant level back close to full.

Now I just need to replace the radiator cap, since it's sipping coolant through the orange warming label and I'm told it's not supposed to do that.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:01 PM   #13
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I did it with the cap ON, that's what the manual says. I did try it with the cap OFF once and coolant was coming out, not good.

I'm sure both methods works though.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:09 PM   #14
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OP just watch for more leaks. My upper radiator hose swelled when it got cold out and got cut by the aux fan. After replacing that I noticed the lower radiator hose started to leak. Just if you fixed one weak leak in your coolant system you may find another.

If I were you I would order the lower radiator hose and replace it when you get a chance. Watch for those clamps too. I know my clamps were rusted to the point where I had to cut them off.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:15 PM   #15
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Thanks. How much coolant did you lose when you replaced the lower radiator hose?
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lh0628 View Post
Thanks. How much coolant did you lose when you replaced the lower radiator hose?
I replaced all my coolant since I was paranoid at what looked like some black bits floating in my coolant after the top hose went. One bottle of undiluted antifreeze and one gallon of distilled water will fill things back up. Also make sure to toss some Subaru head gasket conditioner in as well. This will give you peace of mind and cost you about $20.

Just a note on my install. First of all I have a FMIC so working around those pipes was a pain. Secondly I couldn't get the right angle to loosen the stock clamps and they were corroded/rusted so I used mini bolt cutters to get them off. I replaced the stock clamps with new worm clamps.

This process took an hour plus after draining the fluid. I was leaking from the bottom radiator hose to the waterpump.

I would highly suggest adding mini (8") bolt cutters to your tool box if you are thinking of doing this. They have gotten me out of multiple jams including this one. I think I picked mine up at harbor freight for $6.

I got my hose of Amazon since I had prime it cost me $10 in total with two day shipping. I am not sure what it is without prime.

These things will add up but you will have better piece of mind when playing in the snow and not spewing fluid all over the place. Considering how my hoses acted like when it got colder in NE I would hate to see how they act in Canada.

Anyway, good luck whatever route you choose.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:20 PM   #17
lh0628
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Thanks for the response, it was very detailed and informative!

It costs my $75 for the hose and 2 bottles of the Subaru super blue coolant. My clamps were OK. I'm going to replace the radiator cap too which is another $20. I have a bottle of the Subaru conditioner I bought earlier. Pretty much everything is more expensive in Canada.

I'm going to keep an eye on both hoses for a while and check the coolant levels, etc. Thanks again.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:19 AM   #18
Adamwrx2004
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I cant find the answer anywhere... What is the proper process for replacing the upper radiator hose? Do i need to drain all of the coolant first? and what is this about burping the car afterwards? im just lost here.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamwrx2004
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I cant find the answer anywhere... What is the proper process for replacing the upper radiator hose? Do i need to drain all of the coolant first? and what is this about burping the car afterwards? im just lost here.
Drain like half a gallon of coolant (maybe more, just enough for the coolant level to be below the upper hose ). The just replace upper hose. Make sure you cut about 1inch off the hose that connects to the radiator or it'll rub against the alternator pulley
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:51 AM   #20
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Cool, Ill get to work on that soon. Thanks for the help
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:05 AM   #21
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I would replace the thermostat simply because it's cheap insurance. Then fully drain and refill your coolant system according to the process to eliminate the bubbles. After this if your cooling fans come on and your car still over heats then you might have a bigger problem on your hands.
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