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Old 12-18-2011, 06:58 PM   #26
RicersWetDream
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
I just checked my slips at the 313hp level when it went 107mph. The 1/8 was 85mph. I can definitely see pushing another 5mph now. Lol I'm not patient, I want to drive to Florida or something and check it out now.
My 91 tune was trapping 86 in the 1/8th... I hit 90 last time out but my clutch was slipping and I can't launch worth a damn. Not quite sure what 340-350 on airboy will trap in a 3200 lb 09 (race weight).
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #27
synolimit
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how many miles you at now? i hope i wont need a clutch for awhile. i will be using my LC
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:19 PM   #28
djc1827
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Thanks synolimit lol My 2011 is ready to be tuned January 9th on the best most accurate dyno....mustang dyno(heartbreaker) The best tuners around my area are EFI logics, Street tuned Motorsports and Innovative. Just take a wild guess on the brand of dyno? Those numbers are very impressive tho. I am not familiar with that kind of dyno so I can't run my mouth too much. If he wants to prove everyone wrong then bring it to the track. Time clock doesn't lie...puts all the **** talkin to rest. I am impressed he went ext wg. Good mod and not alotta people do that. Why did you get a map sensor to run 21psi? The point of a map sensor is to run more than 22psi buddy. I can say from experience the vf52 doesn't have much more balls past 22psi tho. I can say however nobody is taking my record. I am running e85 this time around... not meth (risky) I would suggest my clutch ACT HD street disc 420lbs tq. I will be making about 450tq but I would rather my clutch slip a bit and save my trans. These things are pretty strong though. I am trying to get sponsored and get a block but worst case scenario I will buy my own and prob stick with small turbos. Stay away from 4/6 puck they are ruff on trans! vf52 is good for low 12s on pump easy if you know how to drive. My goal is 11.6 without gutting my car. 3208lbs stock. Then I can say I am the fastest Stock turbo subaru in the world lol The only guys going faster than me have built motors and gutted cars
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:30 PM   #29
djc1827
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Last car 3260lbs, 18" heavy rims, tmic, $75 korean tires, meth
New car 3208lbs, 17" enkei rpf1 (15.4lbs), fmic, nitto nt 555 tires, e85
Goals 1.6 in my 60ft and 117mph traps, no heat soaking
Weight alone or better 60ft would yield 11.8s no problem so I am shooting for 11.60s'
I shaved over 8lbs per rim of rotating mass plus 50lbs off car
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:36 PM   #30
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new tuner; cant force him to run more then 20-21 psi if he doesnt want to. did a few pulls today after installing 1 step colder plugs. its a little cold today and it was getting up into the 21-22 psi range for less than a second/ half second. pulls were starting to show 390+TQ. for now ill leave the 20psi as thats plenty for me. plus im hitting max boost at 2900 rpm. she'll be nice and safe where i have it for now.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:22 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
how many miles you at now? i hope i wont need a clutch for awhile. i will be using my LC
I'm about to be outside the warranty (36k).... Pretty sure I haven't had a warranty since about 8k miles tho

Clutch actually seems to be holding fine anymore, pretty sure I just gave it a good glazing at the track and it's recovered since then. I still have a new clutch covered when it does go out, but I won't be going to the track before I get a new one in there. Still waiting on Carbonetic to release their new blade for the WRX, or if I need to replace it before then I'll go with the ACT HD.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:32 PM   #32
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you prob done more research than me, is the carbonetic clutch it? or ACT HDSS will work plenty? do aftermarket clutches with heavy clamp loads last as long as normal clutches?
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:15 PM   #33
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Yea just remember that tq rating is at the crank...yea thats understandable. Safe is good..taking risks makes power but cost alot of money in the long run. I ran a map sensor so I could run 22+psi..didn't really make a difference with vf52. I think I just was blowing hot air at that point especially with tmic. I went 12.3s with stock clutch. I glazed it and thought it was shot. After it cooled down it was fine again. But I knew it wouldn't last with meth. I ordered an ACT. Stock clutches and trans are strong
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:00 AM   #34
djc1827
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Yea aftermarket clutches last as long time if you dont abuse them! I see it everyday..people put exedy and spec clutches in and expect them to last a long time. I always go as aggressive as possible without a super grabby clutch. I checked the tq rating on all clutches and nobody compares to ACT without being super grabby material and pucks. I would never put a stock clutch in my car, if you burned out the stock clutch under 36k miles why would u want another one? Its a lengthy process to install one but you have to do it all over again soon or you have to pay someone to do it.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:08 AM   #35
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I really like the carbonetic and I've known two guys that own them... Basically drives like stock with a bit more pressure on the pedal, but the carbon isn't really grabby until it heats up, so it slips nicely when you feather off the clutch in daily driving.

Now you heat it up by staging it, basically you intentionally slip it for a few seconds (do that a few times), and it'll grip and go like no other. STI version of the blade holds 500tq at the crank, WRX being slightly smaller diameter I suspect will be around 450. I've been talking with them for about a year now and they told me it would be coming out by christmas this year, but still no sign.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:16 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djc1827 View Post
Why did you get a map sensor to run 21psi? The point of a map sensor is to run more than 22psi buddy.
the 08+ cars have a 3bar map sensor too....so it wasnt necessary at all.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:40 AM   #37
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^ Good to know... How high can they read, 28ish?
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:04 PM   #38
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According to Ferdie at South Coast Subaru it is a direct bolt on for prior years

- Part # for the OEM 3bar sensor is 22627AA490

Should read to 29psi at sea level or comparable atm pressure.


Im still trying to really clarify if this is an STi only part...or if it comes on the wrx too. Im not at home to be able to look through logs.

So dont get your hopes up yet.

But either way the AEM 3.5 bar + adapter is ~$200.....the OEM one is $215 on subarugeunineparts.com and the omni is still way cheaper at $100

Last edited by Phatron; 12-19-2011 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
According to Ferdie at South Coast Subaru it is a direct bolt on for prior years

- Part # for the OEM 3bar sensor is 22627AA490

Should read to 29psi at sea level or comparable atm pressure.


Im still trying to really clarify if this is an STi only part...or if it comes on the wrx too. Im not at home to be able to look through logs.

So dont get your hopes up yet.

But either way the AEM 3.5 bar + adapter is ~$200.....the OEM one is $215 on subarugeunineparts.com and the omni is still way cheaper at $100
I know for a fact that a 2010 wrx is not a 3 bar sensor.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:26 PM   #40
djc1827
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Hey you learn something everyday..my tuner told me 22.5psi was the max you could go with stock map sensor
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:38 PM   #41
synolimit
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Well good buy for me then. It was only $115 and the omni isn't made for the WRX so...
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:18 PM   #42
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Lol that sucks. I'm sure it will come in handy some day.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:19 PM   #43
djc1827
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So whats the deal? Do I need map sensor or not? I don't wanna run into this problem on the dyno...Anyone got solid evidence of running more than 22psi on stock map sensor cause every vf52 I see is running 20-22psi coincidently
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:21 PM   #44
Phatron
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Unless you're at elevation you don't need one to run 22psi.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:48 PM   #45
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Carbon driveshaft would be a nice addition to max out stock turbo.
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:03 PM   #46
synolimit
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^^^ crossed my mind! also dropping 26lb off the front rotors and calipers going to Wilwood 4 pots. (yes i know calipers mean nothing, just not sure off the top of my head how much lighter the rotors are).
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:51 PM   #47
djc1827
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my theory is unless you can drop 100lbs + don't waste your time. I was gonna do a pulley again but I heard horror stories about them and how our motors aren't balanced very well as is. Harmonic balancers etc. They say every 20lbs off rims is like 120lbs total weight due to rotating mass. So the way I look at it is my new car is already almost 200lbs lighter which would yield 11.80s with identical power and crappy 60ft Can't wait to get this car to the track too bad I gotta wait 3-4 months for the snow to clear here in NY. How you enjoying that TMIC Zulu?
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:56 PM   #48
djc1827
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Phatron where is Phatbotti tuning? I see the nastiest cars being tuned by them? 11.50 on that sti...I know its gutted but damn thats moving
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:09 AM   #49
synolimit
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well we're talking rotational mass so every 20lbs i can find ill remove if it means 120lb sprung weight. i already have 35.4lbs off the wheels/tires, and 4lbs off the crank pulley. the CF drive shaft is 14.4lb and the aluminium is 13.5lb so theres another 13-14lb knocked off, rotors with aluminium hats maybe another 22-24lb and carbonetic clutch/flywheel is another 21 i think. 97ish lbs would be about 582lbs from what your saying, im all for that.
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:22 AM   #50
djc1827
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Yea every lil bit adds up but your in ohio... same boat I am in...gotta wait for the weather to clear up before u start draggin. I wish we had an indoor track
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