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Old 12-23-2011, 02:01 AM   #1
TenPSI
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Default GR Oil change tutorial

I haven't been able to find a good oil change tutorial so I hope this can help someone out.

Tools required:
Flat tip screwdriver
Ratchet
12mm and 17mm Sockets
oil bucket
funnel
4.4 qts of oil (Subaru recommends synthetic for 11+)
new oil filter
drain bolt crush washer

Optional:
oil filter remover
breaker bar
Jack & jack stands



Run the car to warm it up to allow the oil to flow out better and remove the oil filler cap for the same reason.



You can change the oil without jacking. I jacked up the passengers side to get a little more room and aid the oil in coming out of the oil pan. Make sure you lower the car on the jack stand before you get under the car.



Next you have to remove the plastic underbody cover. There are 3 12 mm bolts two in the front and one in the back.

There are also two clips towards the back that you have to unclip. Here is what they look like off the car.



There are two tabs that you need to take the center pin out and remove in the wheel well. Here you can see the one in the drivers side wheel well. I have already poped the center pin out with the flathead.



Here is what it looks like removed





Now you can finally see the filter and oil drain bolt. Position the oil drain bucket and remove drain bolt. This was my cars first oil change and I think that bolt was painted on, hence the breaker bar.



Then remove the filter once you can position the bucket so it can catch oil from both locations

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Old 12-23-2011, 02:05 AM   #2
TenPSI
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Can only post 10 pics at a time?!?

The place where the filter used to be will have oil around it so clean that up. Here is mine still oily




Remove the crush washer on the drain bolt and install new one while oil is draining. Once oil is done draining reinstall drain bolt to 32.5 ft-lb. Put a bead of oil around the new filters gasket and install the filter. Once it gets tight turn one more rotation. Do not use the filter wrench to tighten. Hand tighten only.



Reinstall under cover and lower the car if you jacked it up. Fill with 4.4 qts of oil



Reinstall oil filler cap and start the car and check for leaks from the filter and bolt. Shut the car off and allow time for the oil to drain back. Check the oil level while on level ground.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:19 AM   #3
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the reason you couldn't find one is because it is self explanitory. if you don't know how to change your oil, you shouldn't. just sayin.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:24 AM   #4
subiebui
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^agreed.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:29 AM   #5
shamrocker
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Nice howto. It would have come in handy the first time I changed my oil. I don't agree that it's completely self explanatory, especially the plastic panel.
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:00 AM   #6
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Thanks for this...kinda agree with the fellows above, but regardless, it will help some. Moving to better forum though...
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:03 PM   #7
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The only thing that threw me was the "crush washer" on the drain plug. In all the cars I've owned over the past 50 years all had a washer that was reused, over and over on the oil drain plug.

Edit: Forgot to say: Great Pictures and information.

Last edited by Jerry_NJ; 12-23-2011 at 10:31 PM. Reason: Add Edit comment
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:20 PM   #8
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Great write-up, thanks for posting this. I have always changed my own oil on my trucks but this would have made the first change go much faster. The little things, like bolt sizes, are nice info to have.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:06 PM   #9
TenPSI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry_NJ
The only thing that threw me was the "crush washer" on the drain plug. In all the cars I've owned over the past 50 years all had a washer that was reused, over and over on the oil drain plug.

Edit: Forgot to say: Great Pictures and information.
I used to reuse mine until my wife's car started leaking oil in our driveway because it was so mangled.

I forgot to take a pic of it I even went through the trash and couldn't find it lol.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:35 PM   #10
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Good write-up!

BTW, why 4.4 quarts? Is that without a filter and just an oil-pan only drain? Not criticizing, just asking.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Good write-up!

BTW, why 4.4 quarts? Is that without a filter and just an oil-pan only drain? Not criticizing, just asking.
Because that's what the owner's manual says the capacity for the 2011 Impreza is - 4.4 quarts.


Oh, and Subaru "requires" synthetic for 2011+ FB motors and 2011+ turbos. They're now "recommending" synthetic for prior year turbos.

Last edited by CosmoTheCat; 12-23-2011 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:11 AM   #12
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So most likely it does not include the oil filter.

-Dennis
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:14 AM   #13
Big-E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat View Post
Because that's what the owner's manual says the capacity for the 2011 Impreza is - 4.4 quarts.
Ok, but is that with or without a filter?

As an example, the 2006 MY Subaru manual under General Information states: 4.2 w/o filter, 4.5 w/filter, and 5.3 w/engine overhaul. Within the Engine Section however under Replacement 4.2 quarts is specified and no filter is mentioned.

This may however be the case with the newer models that they hold less oil. Perhaps if this is true that this may be a way to conserve on resources and over the long-run?
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:26 AM   #14
z
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My input would be to fill with oil, start car, make sure there are no leaks/drips from the drain plug and/or filter and then reinstall the plastic undercover.

*I also pre-fill the filter before screwing on.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:25 PM   #15
KJ32
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This is a great write up. I am planning to do my 1st oil change on the STI. One question about the oil plug gasket, should the flat or the rounded side go against the oil pan, or it does not matter.

Also, how do you like the K&N on the STI? I used the K&N on my last TL for 11 years and loved it.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:44 PM   #16
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I think it doesn't matter which side of the gasket goes toward the pan. At least I can say I don't know a right way and I've been changing oil in my 2004 Forester for, well 8 years, and I have never had a new washer leak. I have had a reused washer leak, however. I'm not sure how many times I used that washer and in fact I changed the oil today, and reused the old washer, no sign of a leak yet. I'll changed the washer most times, but not always. I didn't feel like looking for a new washer today. Hope I get away with it
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:24 PM   #17
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Haters gonna hate. This provided me with the exact information I was looking for. Thanks for making this DIY.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker_927 View Post
Haters gonna hate. This provided me with the exact information I was looking for. Thanks for making this DIY.
I agree!!! Must be young kids I guess, some people have nothing better to do than offer rude, douchebag comments. If I'm correct the purpose of forums is to help one another. This guy went out of his way to help someone else. Sorry, you know it all already!!!
I have already performed my 11 oil change a few times. But, it would have been nice knowing what tools I needed ahead of time, such as, 12mm and 17mm sockets , not to mention the clips and bolts for the shield. The excellent tip of filling the oil filter, is something that should be done on any upside down filter, gets oil press. that much sooner. I too thank you for your time and effort to help someone else.
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Old 07-20-2012, 01:41 PM   #19
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i agree with the above two posts... why post this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvdw View Post
the reason you couldn't find one is because it is self explanitory. if you don't know how to change your oil, you shouldn't. just sayin.
i've never worked on a GR, so it's very helpful to see someone walk through it so i know what to expect once i look under the car. thanks to the OP.
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Old 07-28-2012, 01:31 PM   #20
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i'll add this in re: oil filters, since i noticed the OP used a K&N. on this forum a lot of people will stumble on this thread when formulating their first oil change plan of attack (like i did). there is a contingent on the forums that buys into the bypass pressure issue more than others. here is a non-subaru forum link to what that means - http://saturdaymechanic.com/subaru-o...-bypass-valve/

truthfully, no matter what you think about this issue, the bottom line is if you get the napa gold 7712 or wix 57712, you'll be running factory specified bypass valve pressure and on top of it all, a GREAT quality oil filter.

personally, i use the 7712 for my first change and will continue to do so.
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Old 07-28-2012, 09:13 PM   #21
brandon0428
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Awesome write-up. It's nice to know all the little details before starting. Makes it much easier and quicker.
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Old 08-04-2012, 10:10 PM   #22
builthatch
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dang, what happened to the pictures?!

anyway, i HIGHLY recommend an oil filter wrench for the first oil change. my STI had a black oil filter and it was IMPOSSIBLE to remove without one.

Craftsman universal (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-unive...1&blockType=G1) or Lisle 63600 is the ticket because you'll never need another oil filter "wrench" again.

it appeared to be 68mm, the original black filter, but i'm not sure.

Last edited by builthatch; 08-05-2012 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:14 AM   #23
Joker_927
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The pictures!!!!!
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:26 AM   #24
furiouswrx
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Default With pictures

Since the pictures are gone and don't seem to be coming back anytime soon, here is my version of the oil change tutorial on my 2011 WRX hatch.

Tools I used:
3/8" Harbor Freight breaker bar
3/8" Stanley socket set (ratchet, 3" extension, flathead screwdriver, and 12mm and 17mm sockets at a minimum)
Craftsman 3/8" Beam Torque Wrench (0-75 lb-ft)
Wheel chocks (4, 2 at a minimum)
Harbor Freight 3 ton jackstands (2) with rubber covers
Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Wrench
Lisle 17942 4.5 gal Drain Pan
5 Quarts new oil OF YOUR CHOICE
New Subaru OEM blue filter + crush washer
Funnel
Trash bag
Newspaper
Containers for used motor oil and used filters for recycling
Gloves
Arcan XL35R 3.5 ton low profile floor jack (from Costco)
Magnetic tool and Magnetic tray
Creeper (optional)
1-2" solid wood (optional)




le car



Warm up engine to halfway mark. Set parking brake and move to N. Remove oil cap.


Chock both rear wheels on both sides.


Place wood and jackstands next to each fender.


Purge jack and jack car up by front center jacking point. It is marked by a bolt and is half covered in plastic.


Last edited by furiouswrx; 08-07-2012 at 03:58 AM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:44 AM   #25
furiouswrx
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When car is high enough, slide wood underneath tires on both front sides as a safety backup in case jackstands fail.


Align jackstands with front pinch weld jacking points on both sides. I use wood between the jackstand and floor because my garage floor is ceramic-chip type.


SLOWLY lower car onto jackstands and wood.


Remove jack from under car. Push heavily on car from the side to make sure it is stable. Redo the jackstand operation if you are in any doubt.

Remove underbody cover. 2 clips pop out by prying with flat-head screwdriver in the wheelwell area.


Remove 2 bolts on each side, and the 1 bolt from the center jacking point with 12 mm socket and ratchet. If this is your first time doing this you'll probably need a breaker bar instead of a standard ratchet as the factory and dealerships hire gorillas to put on their bolts (or use pneumatic tools)



Finally remove the two C clips from the back of the plastic underbody cover by prying them off with your hands. It helps to open up the C shape with your fingers and slide them off. The underbody cover will then fall onto you causing your clothes to become covered with dirt.


Place the oil drain pan to a diagonal from the drain plug to catch the oil. Spread newspaper around everywhere. The oil drain pan is black and is located in the top center of the picture below


Whip out the breaker bar and 17 mm socket.

Last edited by furiouswrx; 08-07-2012 at 03:59 AM.
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