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Old 12-23-2011, 09:03 PM   #1
StiDreams
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Default OT Climbers Check In (2012)

I definitely didn’t get out as much as I wanted to this past year. Not that I ever do but the past 12 months I would consider not so great by standards against the last three or four years. I’m not really disappointed. Between my work and Tim’s work and various family obligations it’s just how it turned out.

We didn’t give Half Dome another go, same as last year. We didn’t make it out to Whitney. We didn’t do Dark Star on Temple. We didn’t make it into the back country at all. Which is not necessarily a bad thing since we weren’t in alpine shape. In any case I’m committed to be in alpine shape before the east side opens for dry season climbing (= no real snow or ice) this year.

2011 Tick List

* = previously attempted or done

11-03-04 Cragging day at Mt. St. Helena, St. Helena, CA
*Wayne’s world (.11a)
*Rampage (.10c)
*Silverado Squaters (.10b)
*Kidnapped (.10c)

11-04-09 Two days of cragging at the Grotto, near Jamestown, CA
Table Manners (.9-)
Rawhide (.10d)
Granted (.9)
Hole In The Wall (.10a)
Three Finger Jack (.10b)
Snake Bite (.11a)
AC Devil Dog (.10b)
Bandito (.8)

11-04-16 Yosemite
*Church Bowl Tree (.10b)
Energizer (.11b)
Five and Dime (.10d)
Keystone (.8)
Bijou (.10c)

11-04-30 Yosemite
*Outer Limits (.10b)
*Catchy (.10d)
Catchy Corner (.11a) fail
Five and Dime (.10d)
Copper Penny (.10a)
Conductor Crack (.10d)

11-05-14 Day trip to Phantom Spire, Kyburz, CA
Hard Up (.9)
Slow Dancer (.9)
Lean and Mean (.9)
Lean and Meaner (.11b TR)
Center Route on Clam Rock (.10d)
Candy Land (.10b TR)

11-05-30 Yosemite.
Royal Arches to Crest Jewel linkup. Only got RA (.7, A0).
Absolute Free Center, Lower Brother (.9)

11-06-11 Yosemite.
Snake Dike (.7RRRR)
Little Wing (.10d)
Next to Littke Wing (.10a)

11-07-16 Tuolumne.
Lucky Streaks (.10d)
*Crescent Arch (.9)

11-08-06 Tuolumne.
Third Pillar of Dana (.10b)
Blues Riff (.11b) many falls

11-08-20 Lover’s Leap with Jonathan.
*Scimitar (.9R)
*Hay Stack (.9)
*East Crack (.8)

11-09-03 Four Days in Tuolumne.
Aquaknobby (.9R)
Lord Caffeine (.10d OW TR)
Inverted Stair Case (.10b R)
Hoodwinik (.10a)
Cookebook (.10a)
Dike Route (.9 RRR)

11-10-01 Yosemite
Serenity (.10d)
Sons of Yesterday (.10a)
*Reeds Direct (.9)
*Five and Dime (.10d)

Well maybe not as bad a year as I thought.

2012 Wish List

Mt Whitney Region: Unlikely to go out there again just for these. But I will at some point.

Russell: Western Front (.10c)
Russell: Bloody Corner (.10b)

Yosemite Valley:

Arch Rock: Entrance Exam (.9)
Arch Rock: Midterm (.10b)
Arch Rock: Gripper (.10b)
Cookie Cliff: Catchy (.10d)
Cookie Cliff: Catchy Corner (.11a)
Cookie Cliff: Outer Limits (.10c)
Cookie Cliff: Meat Grinder (.10c OW)
Cookie Cliff: Crack-a-Go-Go (.11c) for the future
Cookie Cliff: Beverly’s Tower (.10a)
Cookie Cliff: Waverly Wafer (.10c)
Cookie Cliff: Wheat Thin (10c)
Cookie Cliff: Butterfingers (.11a) TR
Higher Cathedral: Northeast Buttress (.9)
Royal Arches Area: Serenity Crack (.10d) repeat
Royal Arches Area: Sons of Yesterday (.10a) repeat
North Dome: South Face (.8)
Reed’s Pinnacle: Lunatic Fringe (.10c) Beyond the Fringe (.10b), Beyond Lunacy (.10c/A0 or 11c).

Tuolumne:

Harlequin Dome: Hoodwink (.10a)
Harlequin Dome: By Hook or by Crook (.11b)
Phobos/Diemos Cliff: Diemos (.9)
Low Profile Dome: Galen’s Crack (.10c OW TR)
East Cottage Dome: Lots of short hard stuff
Canopy Dome: Lots of short hard stuff
Lembert Dome: Direct Northwest Face (.10b)
Eichorn Pinnacle: Direct (.10b) repeat
Fairview Dome: Lucky Streaks (.10d)
Fairview Dome: The Great Pumpkin (.8 R)
Drug Dome: Oz (.10d) to Gram Traverse (.10d) repeat in better style
Mariuolumne Dome: Hobbit Book (.7R)
Tenaya Peak: Northwest Buttress (.5)
Mt Conness: West Ridge (.7)

Calaveras: (more than we can manage in one trip)

Hammer Dome: Wings and Sings (.7)
Hammer Dome: Pressure Wave (.10b)
Hammer Dome: Gemini Variation (.10c)
Hammer Dome: Free Wheelin’ (.10c)
Hammer Dome: Smoke Screen (.10c)
Hammer Dome: Squeaks of Gold (.11a)
Calaveras Dome: Sands of Time (.9)
Calaveras Dome: Beacon to Mars (.10d R)
Calaveras Dome: Thunderbolt (.10b)
Calaveras Dome: Schizophrenic Dike (.10c)
Calaveras Dome: Silk Road (.11b) listing for the future

Needles: (more than we can manage in one trip)

Charlatan Needle: Spooky (.9)
Charlatan Needle: Fancy Free (.10b)
Sorcerer’s Apprentice: Love Potion #9 (.10b)
Sorcerer’s Apprentice: Broomsticks (.10b)
The Sorcerer: Slight of Hand (.10b)
The Sorcerer: Thin Ice (.10b)
The Warlock: The Howling (.10a)
Voodoo Dome: White Punks on Dope (.8)
Witch: Gorilla Warfare (.10d)
Witch: Igor Unchained (.9)
Witch: Airy Interlude (.10a)
Witch: Spook Book (.10d)
Witch: The Pit and The Pendulum (.10d)
Wizard Needle: Yellow Brick Road (.9)

Temple Crag:

Dark Star (.10b) Still on the list.
Thunderbolt to Sill Traverse (.10) This one too.

Shasta (adding snow and ice).

As always I'm looking forward to the coming season and I hope to hear about all of you-alls trip.
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:59 AM   #2
left footed whooten
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Word. Been able to keep climbing pretty well since the skiing is shyte. Gold wall couple weeks ago, Bowman lake last week, lots of gym in between. Big chief is good right now, going in a couple days if it doesnt rain. Def aint gonna snow.

Slovenia Sept this coming year, gonna sport climb all over the country, which seems to be just larger than Los Angeles, plus alpiney stuff in the Julian Alps:

Triglav, Spik, Mangart, Jalovec, and Montaz (Italy).

If it wont snow, the screw it, Im gonna keep climbing.

Buddies went and climbed drug dome ice to the top and clouds rest to the top couple days ago. Cant believe Tiogas still open, havent seen that in a decade or more.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:58 PM   #3
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So, snow is nonexistent, squaw might even be closing midweek at this point. Light rain yesterday and today. Big chief has been great, sunny and warm, gates are open until the last gate, theres a well established trail around it, an Outback will make it through just fine.

Since its one of those winters, its time to climb, going to do Feather Peak north couloir for saturday. 900ft of ice? yes please. Brand new Tundra with brand new 4 wheel pop up camper with blasting heater and fridge? yes please. Bottle of $60 bourbon, check. Leftover prime rib? check. Suffering? not while we're camping goddammit
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:01 PM   #4
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STI, go get your partner and get up to Tenaya peak while its all wintery, get some alpine training in. Take advantage of tioga being open, my buddys pictures were amazing, looks so good in there right now. Mt Hoffman would be sweet, tenaya and tressider, cathedral, all that **** is rad alpiney now. and nobody around to get in your way
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:05 PM   #5
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:06 PM   #6
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*semi*
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:08 PM   #7
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this is the first spring i wont be in AK in 4 years

Mt Russell (yet to be summitted since)
Mt 11,300
Little Swiss Royal Tower and ****
Mt Foraker


but in July

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Old 12-29-2011, 01:46 PM   #8
StiDreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left footed whooten View Post
STI, go get your partner and get up to Tenaya peak while its all wintery, get some alpine training in. Take advantage of tioga being open, my buddys pictures were amazing, looks so good in there right now. Mt Hoffman would be sweet, tenaya and tressider, cathedral, all that **** is rad alpiney now. and nobody around to get in your way

That's not a bad idea.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:48 PM   #9
StiDreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin View Post
this is the first spring i wont be in AK in 4 years
Why no go?
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:50 PM   #10
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Seems like a lot... do you have a job?
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:55 PM   #11
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Last year a friend and I summitted South Maroon Peak, CO. It was our first 14er, but damn it felt good. I'm looking to do some more this summer. Possibly Capital and/or Pyramid.
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
Why no go?
just too much on my plate - that himalayan climb is going to just be a long trip. 9 days of just travel.



does who work?
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:02 PM   #13
StiDreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr2guru View Post
Seems like a lot... do you have a job?
I work a regular job (40-50 hours). My climbing partner and I drive out on Friday night and come home on Sunday night during the climbing season. In the winter we'll leave Saturday mornign and come back Sunday night. The valley is only five hours from my front door. There are also other stuff within a few hours (Lover's Leap, Donner Summit, Gold Wall, ...). For longer trips (Sierra East side, Whitney, Incredible Hulk, ...) I take vacation days. I only got in ten real trips this year. The three privouls years we got in sixteen trips with a couple of big ones in there. The work gets in the way sometimes. This year for instance. But the big thing is that our wives are very understanding. I don't know any married guys that can be away from home sixteen+ weekends a year.
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:04 PM   #14
StiDreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin View Post
just too much on my plate - that himalayan climb is going to just be a long trip. 9 days of just travel.



does who work?
That's not a bad trade.
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:05 PM   #15
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Stidreams works - works at doing some kick ass climbing
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
That's not a bad trade.
pretty sure 6 days of this will get ****ing old

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Old 12-29-2011, 07:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin
Stidreams works - works at doing some kick ass climbing
Indeed!

Old overweight dad climber checking in.

Hoping to get out more with my son in 2012.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:58 PM   #18
OriginalSin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwmoss_68

Indeed!

Old overweight dad climber checking in.

Hoping to get out more with my son in 2012.
Cheers sir! What you're doing for your son is rad
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:40 PM   #19
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I hike all over the NW and summitted South Baldface in NH earlier this year (3000+v.f. and back in 5 hrs)... but what I really want to know, and figure one of you climber types might have a link for, is how to configure ziplines.

I have Petzl trolleys with integrated 'biners, bars, harnesses and 250' of braided steel cable, but I have no idea how to calculate appropriate angles or drop relative to speed, or attach the cables safely (one end to my third floor to keep uninvited off, one end at a tree which will then have a treehouse in my woods). I don't have kids, but friends kids will be using it so it needs to be failsafe and foolproof...

TIA,
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:05 PM   #20
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I worked at a zip line course this summer, we used the petzl trolleys, there are a few ways that it was done on our course.


The ziplines were hung at a slope of about 7 degrees if I eye balled it correctly, they weren't that steep. They also had a good bit of slack in them. Also at the end there were always pads and the landing was angled upwards with some fake turf on it.

Our lines either were at such a small slope that you could stop yourself by just pushing yourself backwards if that makes sense (you basically run into the object and absorb the impact with your legs/arms). OR we had brake blocks on the ends of the lines with climbing rope to reset them, but these have to be reset every time, not a huge problem though.

As for the connections, we just had metal eyes and the cable would go around a telephone pole and double back and we used multiple cable crimps to keep them in place...but you need some tools to install these.

Good luck.
----
On a climbing related note...I'm 17 and I haven't done much climbing before, just some really simple stuff. I'm going to be starting this winter climbing ice with my dad and then rock in the summer with him as well. We have plenty of good gear and are in the perfect region for it, I live 20 minutes from the base of Baldface, but I'm also about 15 minutes from North Conway and quite a few climbs. Can't wait to start climbing, just waiting for some good ice to come in, there's some now, just not a lot.

Last edited by That guy in Maine; 12-29-2011 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:10 PM   #21
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Here's a question...

How many ice screws do you guys carry with you when you do climbs? Also, what sizes?

Thanks.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:15 PM   #22
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Depends on the route and length.

And a lot of that comes w experience
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:59 AM   #23
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well.... Nate will be on Latok in July - so I am going to have to find someone else to help me get these kids up Stok Kangri
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:35 AM   #24
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That's a tall order. How many kids are you taking up that hill?
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:37 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams
That's a tall order. How many kids are you taking up that hill?
8 to the summit hopefully and 15ish to base camp
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