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Old 04-03-2012, 03:47 PM   #51
shawmacs
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I used to love climbing. Then I moved to Squamish and started to hate climbers so now I don't do it anymore.

It helps that there is so many other cool sports to do here too. Now I spend all my time sailing.

I would like to get back in to some mountaineering if my knee can handle it. Just not enough time in the year!!
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:55 PM   #52
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:21 PM   #53
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Been going to Owens a lot lately, its been so good, perfect temps. Had to push slovenie until next year, europe is so expensive this year. We're going to the Wind Rivers in WY for some backcountry, then City of Rocks and Wild Iris and Ten Sleeps instead. I think it will be rad.

The sierras are about ready, if this weather holds for a while, Ill be out in the Palisades in a couple weeks. Walking over snow instead of talus is winny win win.
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:08 AM   #54
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stidreams what are you climbing in RR?
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:50 PM   #55
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We were suppose to be there Thurs-Mon. But we ended up not going because of weather. As a small consolation we climbed for one day at Sugarloaf (Kyburs). I climbed the usual suspects.

Scheister (.7)
The fracture (.10d)
Make that move now baby (.10b)
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:05 PM   #56
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sweet.

I think we are going to get on epinephrine.... why not, right?

and then just a couple other routes. a week from today

then i'll be beat to **** and ride that motorcycle back
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:33 PM   #57
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Epinephrine ... serious business is serious business.

Come a little further north and west and I'll meet you for a couple of days. Bring a partner or not. There's big stuff like that in the valley that's not that scary.
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:34 AM   #58
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you think it will be that bad?

you have probably seen it, i havent

pretty psyched.

as far as futher north and west, I wish. I am pushing it trying to get back in 4-5 days..
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:48 PM   #59
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I haven't been in it. I find big chimneys to be intimadating. And any chimneys that is .9 or harder to be scary. But that's mostly becaues I'm a midgit. If I had long legs that could easily span comfortbably in to a seated position it might be a different story. That said it's on my list.

I was talking some other trip. Your ride is long enough.
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:51 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams
I haven't been in it. I find big chimneys to be intimadating. And any chimneys that is .9 or harder to be scary. But that's mostly becaues I'm a midgit. If I had long legs that could easily span comfortbably in to a seated position it might be a different story. That said it's on my list.

I was talking some other trip. Your ride is long enough.
Well plan on seeing me one of these days sir
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:29 PM   #61
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StiDreams - have you climbed with a gopro?

i am going to be such a tweaker, but i really want to use one on epinephrine
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:14 AM   #62
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No. I have not. Where are you going to mount it?

Went back up to Sugarloaf this weekend. Climbed Dominion (.10a), Taurus (.11b), Farley (.9) and Fingerlocks (.10b). These were all repeats. Dominion was super fun. I got severely spanked on Taurus but manage to dog my way up it. I've one hang this thing in the past but I'm nowhere near that strong now. Farley was also fun. Really spicy for a .9. Fingerlocks was also a bitch but that one has always been. Probably one of the biggest sandbags at Sugarloaf.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:41 PM   #63
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Did you see any chopped bolts out there? Maybe on a route that crossed farley? I guess theres been a supertopo superhomo bolt chopping and drilling girlfight there recently.


Say no to the gopro, it will gay you up. Those things and two-way radios are ghastly.

You should be fine on epi, havent done it yet but ive heard from lots whove done it that its not that big of a deal. You have to have a certain comfort level on chimneys, but its well protected for a chimney.

While youre in there hit wholesome fullback/amber, triassic sands, and the other neighboring climbs, lots of stars in there.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:43 PM   #64
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Mt Haeckel next week or so, if no more white death falls. Want a mountain trip before may if possible. Bishop Creek is getting good, Palisades getting good, Rock Creek getting good but the road is closed way low, but dry.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:45 PM   #65
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Just started seriously training. I can manage a 5.10. Gonna either learn to lead climb this summer up in Mineral Wells (climbing in hell) or take some lessons earlier.

Really looking forward 2 years, when I'm done with undergrad and I can take a trip to Yosemite and really climb.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:54 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left footed whooten View Post
Did you see any chopped bolts out there? Maybe on a route that crossed farley? I guess theres been a supertopo superhomo bolt chopping and drilling girlfight there recently.
Did not see the gheyness. Hopefully the choppers are doing it properly if they're chopping. I would rather have the bolt left if in if there's going to be a scar. I have noticed many new bolts sprinkeled here and there but it does not look like grid bolting of any sort so I don't really know what the bitch is about.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:52 AM   #67
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Went to Lover's Leap with Tim. He finally decided to come out of hiding. We did a bunch of moderates (The Groove .8, Corragation Corner .7 and East Crack .8). The place was empty. There was 7 parties including a soloist.
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Old 05-02-2012, 03:49 PM   #68
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climbed epinephrine...wow pitch after pitch of 5.9. and that chimney is a bitch

then climbed risky business - 5.10d

p1 - 5.10b
p2 - 5.10b
p3 - 5.10c
p4 - 5.10a



awesome. i had the go pro on my helmet - i'll get some video eventually.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:33 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
Did not see the gheyness. Hopefully the choppers are doing it properly if they're chopping. I would rather have the bolt left if in if there's going to be a scar. I have noticed many new bolts sprinkeled here and there but it does not look like grid bolting of any sort so I don't really know what the bitch is about.
Nice, I dont know what the pissing contest is about either. People are just being the proverbial **** I guess.

Quote:
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climbed epinephrine...wow pitch after pitch of 5.9. and that chimney is a bitch

then climbed risky business - 5.10d

p1 - 5.10b
p2 - 5.10b
p3 - 5.10c
p4 - 5.10a



awesome. i had the go pro on my helmet - i'll get some video eventually.
Nice, good job. Get your butt on more chimney and that thing will feel like 5.8

Went to leap yesterday, semi crowded. Pure stereotype, some dude wearing 6500 worth of gear, ascenders, go pro, ganda shoes....we should have mugged him...all mixed into one bag at east wall. Fun though, got 3 laps up east wall with 3 people, 1000ft day. Bears reach simul, fandango, and scimitar. Good times. Donner today, conditions good, temps improving but annoying as is the wind. Almost there with temps, but the winds cancel it out. This week should be warmer. Too windy to fish too, dammit.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:54 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin View Post
climbed epinephrine...wow pitch after pitch of 5.9. and that chimney is a bitch

then climbed risky business - 5.10d

p1 - 5.10b
p2 - 5.10b
p3 - 5.10c
p4 - 5.10a



awesome. i had the go pro on my helmet - i'll get some video eventually.
Good job in RR OS. That sounds like good fun.

Quote:
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Nice, I dont know what the pissing contest is about either. People are just being the proverbial **** I guess.
I was back there a couple of weekends ago and found some that I thought was a bit of a bummer but still not a big deal. The ones on the steep side that everybody was bitching about are not a big deal. The five bolts on the slabs down by Sugarbun that would not even make Yosemite 3rd class was a bit of a bummer but still not that big a deal as no real climber would be over there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by left footed whooten View Post
got 3 laps up east wall with 3 people, 1000ft day. Bears reach simul, fandango, and scimitar. Good times. Donner today, conditions good, temps improving but annoying as is the wind. Almost there with temps, but the winds cancel it out. This week should be warmer. Too windy to fish too, dammit.
I love laps at the Leap. I like how you can get four climbs in on the East wall if you're not picky about which ones.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:06 PM   #71
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Tiogas open I guess, TPR still closed but road open. Looks cooold as hell still but pretty dry. Getting nice and warm up here, black wall yesterday in tshirts.
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Old 05-08-2012, 02:15 PM   #72
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Tiogas open I guess, TPR still closed but road open. Looks cooold as hell still but pretty dry. Getting nice and warm up here, black wall yesterday in tshirts.
im jealous.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:34 PM   #73
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its nice...especially after the most lame and dragging winter ever
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:35 PM   #74
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Mt Prater and maybe Mt Bolton Brown also, next weekend. Cherry poppin time for 2012
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:23 PM   #75
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My friends talked me into going to edge rock gym in jacksonville.

This happened.
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