Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday December 20, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Miscellaneous > Off-Topic

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-16-2012, 11:36 AM   #101
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by left footed whooten View Post
I actually did about half of it, got tired of it right before the staircase, did the slabby old 5.8. Wasnt into it, we were confused and put off by how dirty it was, spending too much time making sure we were on it since it was so dirty at the time. The old falkenstien book doesnt give enough info, superhomo gives too much and embellishes. Annoying to do so much routefinding related to crappy beta on a classic and/or trade route. Too bad we cant just have an accurate guidebook without all the unnecessary spoon feeding.
Don't let the lack of details stop you. The stairs and the upper pitches are worth the trip. The slabby 5.8? Are you talking about pitch 3 on the Falcone? The The route really cleans up after the fourth pitch.

The Falcone guide has almost just about enough info. The route finding is a little confusing in the lower four pitches. It makes it a little frustrating but I think it adds to the adventure. In the upper four pitches the Falcone is missing a couple of things that will require that you have your rout finding skills dialed or you'll be doing 10+ moves on crappy/no gear over big ledges. Then crap your pants reversing them.

I can't help you with the bottom four pitches. It just looks confusing when you're up there but if you want beta to avoid getting in trouble in the upper four pitches ping me.

I think even with the dirty climbing it's a much better climb than the regular route. It certainly has a much higher level of commitment.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by StiDreams; 07-16-2012 at 12:12 PM.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 12:46 PM   #102
dwmoss_68
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 6030
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Northeastern PA , USA
Vehicle:
04 Gold FXT
07 WRB FXT Sport

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
a much higher level of commitment.
Sadly my level of commitment this year has been nil! Maybe after vacation I can get off my lazy end.
dwmoss_68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2012, 10:52 PM   #103
mno
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59322
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Michigan Born and Raised.
Vehicle:
2004 STi WRB,09 G8GT
08 G6, 06 CTS, 2010 Prius

Default

Read all Viestures books, know who Messner is and watched touching the Void ergo I know more than you.

IB anyone that climbs.
mno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 12:58 AM   #104
jipstyle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277175
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Pacifica, CA
Vehicle:
2008 STi
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mno View Post
IB anyone that climbs.
I think you're about 5 pages late but I still laughed.
jipstyle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 04:42 AM   #105
mno
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59322
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Michigan Born and Raised.
Vehicle:
2004 STi WRB,09 G8GT
08 G6, 06 CTS, 2010 Prius

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jipstyle View Post
I think you're about 5 pages late but I still laughed.
Thanks made me laugh also.
mno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2012, 11:07 AM   #106
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

Who the hell is this Messner guy? And what are these books you speak off?
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 12:15 AM   #107
mno
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59322
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Michigan Born and Raised.
Vehicle:
2004 STi WRB,09 G8GT
08 G6, 06 CTS, 2010 Prius

Default

I think Messner went to the moon, the books are about going to the moon at a later date. I think I also heard of some guy named Jerzy.
mno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 01:00 AM   #108
KoalaSlim
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 94002
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kirkwood
Vehicle:
2006 WRX Wagon
DRZ400 GT1000

Default

Lionel Messner. The best soccer plaeyer ever.
KoalaSlim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 01:47 PM   #109
left footed whooten
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44652
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Truckee, CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX
15 Forester

Default

Rienhold Ritchie, dances on the ceiling without supplemental oxygen
left footed whooten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 01:49 PM   #110
left footed whooten
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44652
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Truckee, CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX
15 Forester

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
Don't let the lack of details stop you. The stairs and the upper pitches are worth the trip. The slabby 5.8? Are you talking about pitch 3 on the Falcone? The The route really cleans up after the fourth pitch.

The Falcone guide has almost just about enough info. The route finding is a little confusing in the lower four pitches. It makes it a little frustrating but I think it adds to the adventure. In the upper four pitches the Falcone is missing a couple of things that will require that you have your rout finding skills dialed or you'll be doing 10+ moves on crappy/no gear over big ledges. Then crap your pants reversing them.

I can't help you with the bottom four pitches. It just looks confusing when you're up there but if you want beta to avoid getting in trouble in the upper four pitches ping me.

I think even with the dirty climbing it's a much better climb than the regular route. It certainly has a much higher level of commitment.
We made it up to the staircase pitch, I think we were on the early side of the season, my buddy was up there digging out dirt with the nut tool. We got impatient, we had lots of cold beer down in the cooler to drink. You know how it goes with a beer thirsty mob mentality
left footed whooten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 05:50 PM   #111
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

It’s still worth doing. A better one on that dome is Lucky Streaks. That one is definitely worth a go.

I’m headed there this weekend to do the Regular route with a n00b. Then maybe we’ll go play at Olmstead area. Maybe a go at Lord Caffeine on lead. That’s doubtful since I’m a chicken. Definitely on TR.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2012, 08:49 PM   #112
left footed whooten
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44652
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Truckee, CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX
15 Forester

Default

Tideline I thought was easier and better gear. even though its rated harder.
left footed whooten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2012, 04:01 PM   #113
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

Went to Tolumne last weekend with a newish partner. We did the regular (.9) on Fairview and Little Sheba (.10a) on Lamb Dome Saturday. On Sunday we TR Lord Caffeine, Ivory Tower Left (.8 OW) and Ivory Tower Center (.10a). Fun trip.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2012, 03:42 PM   #114
left footed whooten
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44652
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Truckee, CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX
15 Forester

Default

Nice. I wish ivory tower was 1000' long.

Went to new super secret new/old area here past 2 days. Tons of route potential, some old abandoned ones, and lots of futuristic bouldering. Been watching the young and strong FA V10+ for the past two days. We're bringing the drill up next weekend for the cliffs. Looks incredible.
left footed whooten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2012, 05:26 PM   #115
OriginalSin
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 66341
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: a fool's parade
Default

every day i look at this photo for the past year and a half



i think i will climb it in the spring.

the landing strip for denali base camp is the light u shape in the lower middle glacier and the black dots are tents. i want to climb Hunter. i took the pic from foraker last spring

Last edited by OriginalSin; 07-31-2012 at 06:21 PM.
OriginalSin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 07:08 PM   #116
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

I love your big mountain pics. That thing looks awesome, scary and cold.

I went to Tuolumne last Thursday with an old partner (Tom). He hasn’t climbed in a couple of years so we did all moderates. I led everything since he wasn’t comfortable with getting out on the sharp end after being out for so long.

We did West Country (.7) on Stately Pleasure Dome on Friday morning. Later in the day we got on South Crack (.8). I linked the first two pitches with a 70 M. The weather got iffy so we bailed.

On Saturday we did Eurotrash (.10c/.8 A0) linked to Hobbit Book. I did this a month ago and thought it was a hoot. Tom has always wanted to do Hobbit Book and since it was so much fun I didn’t mind repeating it since I would get to lead the pitches that Tim did last time. I linked the first two pitches on Eurotrash and pitched out the last two. The .10c on Eurotrash was just one move. The Hobbit Book was as fun as I remembered.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 02:34 PM   #117
OriginalSin
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 66341
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: a fool's parade
Default

Sounds fun .10c is such solid climbing - nice lead, man!

I love a good 5.8 or 5.9 especially if it's long... they are just fun

in other news Nate texted me yesterday and he and Josh Wharton got off Latok and are back
OriginalSin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2012, 02:24 AM   #118
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

Here are some pics from that trip.


Tom at the base of Eurotrash.



Looking north from the base.



Looking up Eurotrash. You can see Hobbit Book above.



Looking down at Tom coming up the slabby Eurotrash.



Looking down from the second pitch of Hobbit Book.



Looking up the third pitch of Hobbit Book at the 35’ runout followed by the 65’ runout. There's a bolt up there somewhere.



Lake of the Domes. You can’t see this lake from the road since it’s nested behind the domes. You can see Tanya Lake off in the background.


Last edited by StiDreams; 08-09-2012 at 12:35 PM.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2012, 12:17 PM   #119
OriginalSin
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 66341
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: a fool's parade
Default

the 2nd pitch of Hobbit Book looks super fun.

great scenery out there.
OriginalSin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2012, 12:50 PM   #120
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

All the pitches on Hobbit Book were awesome. Even with the gigantic R, if it didnít have such a long approach (Eurotrash or 2 hours of tales hiking) and descent (1.5 hours) there would be an endless line on it. That third pitch is money. The R wasnít bad and the climbing was just super fun. Itís probably the best 160í of .7 Iíve ever climbed. Itís not for the .7 leader though. You really have to have your head screwed on right or not look down past your feet (what I did ).

Tuolumne is a special place. That beauty of endless rock really makes it magical. And the smell of sage cooking off in mid/late summer is intoxicating. I love the smell of the alpine.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2012, 12:52 PM   #121
OriginalSin
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 66341
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: a fool's parade
Default

yeah - miss that smell.

why the hell did i move out of AK again?

also i love seeing old guys (tom) out getting it done. ****ing rad!
OriginalSin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2012, 07:09 PM   #122
OriginalSin
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 66341
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: a fool's parade
Default

unless something drastic changes it's a go for Hunter in 8 mos.
OriginalSin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2012, 02:44 PM   #123
jipstyle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277175
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Pacifica, CA
Vehicle:
2008 STi
WRB

Default

I took my first fall on gear this weekend ... a small 30ft. whip on the 3rd pitch of a classic 6 pitch 5.9. Nothing pulled and the #4 power cam that I had placed in a small pod at the back of the crack held brilliantly.

Lessons learned:

*: rope drag is a bitch. Pay attention to it or you'll pay for it as you're nearing the end of your pitch.
*: if your foot is solidly placed in the crack, do NOT reseat it because it hurts. Putting all your weight on a foot smeared on the wall while you move the bomber foot around may end up sending you for a ride.
*: if you're starting a 50m pitch, bring everything and start running it out as soon as you can. I ran out of big gear too early and had to start searching the back of the crack for placements.
*: tri-cams are AWESOME.

That is all.
jipstyle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2012, 11:33 PM   #124
StiDreams
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 26315
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: On the grassy knoll.
Vehicle:
07 Outback
Silver/Silver

Default

We went to Sonora Pass last weekend. A bunch of us were meeting for a friend’s birthday climbing weekend. He has been busy up in the pass developing a bunch of climbs and wanted us to go up there and give them a burn and get some consensus on the grades. They’re going into the new Sonora Pass guidebook coming out next year.

We head out after work on Friday and get into camp about eleven. We roll into the primitive camp and there are guys already there set up and a fire is going. They came up the night before to secure an area big enough for our party of eight. We throw our tent up and hang out at the fire. That’s nice to have a site guaranteed and fire waiting. I need an advance crew. Unfortunately not long after arriving the sky went from stars to black and a steady rain started. Bummer.

The next morning it was still sprinkling. More bummer. We sat around waiting for the birthday boy to arrive. He was smart. He stayed with his wife at his mother in Twainheart. At about nine-ish he finally shows and the rain has stopped. We try to go find some dry rock to boulder on. No dice. We decide to head down the pass and see if it’s any dryer to the west. The consensus is that Column of the Giants would be dry since it’s a cave. The only issue is the warm-up is your choice of three or four .12a.

Column of the giants are basalt columns that have collapsed into a cave. The approach is a 45 degree talus field that’s about 500’ long. It is the quintessential sport crag. Most routes are pre-equipped. Most of the bolts all have chains or cables with beaners on them. We get up there and it’s dry and why wouldn’t it be since its super steep. The place is kind of cool but you can see where it can also be a little dangerous.

We break out gear and select several of the warm-ups. The guy I’m climbing with is super strong. He’s having a conversation with everybody and singing and …. while slowly and methodically strolling his way up. For him this really is a warm-up. After Tom (not the old guy from the previous trip) warms up I get a go at it. At first I was thinking a TR would be nice since Tom left the rope up after his warm-up. But I decide that I’m going ground up. Pull the rope and go. The first bit isn’t bad. Hard .10. Then it turns to hard .11. Then I find the .12a and get shut down.

We all have a go at various routes throughout the afternoon. I try a couple more with about the same results. Work my way through the hard .11 sections and get shut down at the 12a cruxes. I’m not disappointed since I felt like I did better than I thought I would. This isn’t my style of climbing anyways. Maybe if I came up here more often some of these warm-ups would go. After everybody’s spent, we head back down to the parking lot. Jerry’s (birthday boy) mom (who went up that talus field) made cupcakes for the celebration. That was awesome.

We head back up valley back to camp and rest. The day is getting late but we decide to go and get on some other stuff. We head up to the rock. This time I’m off with two Eric’s (guys who secured our site). We want something chill so we go get on a .9 knob slab route. The rock up here can be gritty and dirty but some of it is world class. This is the latter. We each take a turn leading the route. I go last and TR a .10c route next door off the same anchor.

Back at camp and party but not too hard. Tomorrow I’m heading up with Jonathan and Jerry to “grade” routes.

The climbing here is all granite but nothing big. It seems to be tiers of 100’+ climbing with ledge systems in between. Jerry and Jonathan had came up to the first route yesterday and hung a TR on it for the approach to the routes we would be trying. The TR is on an .11b that they led yesterday. We chose to bypass that .11b section by doing the .10 knob start. You still have to be able to get by the .11a fingers at the top. It didn’t see too bad but on TR most things are never too bad. There’s no head game involved.

We get up to the second tier and walk to the third. We get there and there’s the new route (. Jerry believes it’s somewhere in the hard 10’s. They give me first go so I can get the on-sight. It’s a nice looking vertical start with a small roof near the top. I fire through the crux start and work my way up to the top. The on-sight was definitely not a give me. I put it at .10c. I lower off and pull the gear. Jonathan gives it a go and gets the red-point. He feels that it’s a little tougher but I feel that he likes big numbers. He lowers and pulls the gear but leaves the TR up.

The climb is named “For Whom The Bells Toll” after the Ernest Hemingway book (sort of). The move directed by Sam Wood starring Gary Cooper and Ingrid Bergman was shot with scenes in Sonora Pass. Those scenes were also present in the Metallica video for the song of the same name.

Right next to that crack is a beautiful face with seams and knobs. Jerry cleaned it but had not bolted it. The TR was left up so we could get a burn on that. Jerry gives it a go and takes one hang on the crux on after missing a key crimp. I go up there and learning from his mistake get the flash on TR. Jonathan also gets a clean go but did not really stay in the climbing line. We discuss the number of bolts and bolt locations for this thing and all agree it will go in the easy .11 on the sharp end. Jerry calls it “Ride the Lightning”. Sort of an extension on the theme.

We leave as jerry has work to do. He’s suppose to shoot the cover for the new guide. His model and her husband are waiting for us at the base. We meet them and hike over to yet another crack that Jerry cleaned and FAed. It’s beautiful zig-zag crack called Andromeda and goes at .10a. They both get on it and send. Jonathan takes a go on TR. I decline as it is getting late and almost time to head home.

Sorry no pics. I’m headed back up there in a few weeks to do some more grading. Jerry wants me to get on some of his other projects. I’m a bit hesitant. They’re all in the mid to high .11’s. What’s the worse that can happen? I guess it’s time to sack back up and get some air miles.

Last edited by StiDreams; 08-29-2012 at 10:29 AM.
StiDreams is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2012, 01:13 AM   #125
jipstyle
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277175
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Pacifica, CA
Vehicle:
2008 STi
WRB

Default

Nice TR .. sounds like you had a good weekend. Thanks for sharing.
jipstyle is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OT Climbers Check In (2010) StiDreams Off-Topic 222 01-09-2011 12:50 PM
OT Climbers Check In (2009) StiDreams Off-Topic 176 01-02-2010 12:41 AM
OT Climbers Check In (2008). StiDreams Off-Topic 184 01-05-2009 05:05 PM
OT Climbers Check In (2007). StiDreams Off-Topic 54 11-19-2007 11:20 AM
OT Climbers, check in. StiDreams Off-Topic 81 12-31-2006 06:09 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.