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Old 08-23-2012, 05:44 AM   #126
left footed whooten
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....and you didnt go to lost world. You gotta go back.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:47 AM   #127
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Leaving for Wind River range monday. 2 weeks, 3 people, 3 mules, 3 flyrods, 5 peaks, ice, rock, snow, wild turkey, jim beam, 120 coors, red meat on the grill. Limestone sport climbing with any extra time, or vedauwoo. Its a rough life.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:17 AM   #128
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....and you didnt go to lost world. You gotta go back.
Tom, the guy I climbed with and did much of the development there, felt that Lost World would have been wet and Column was the only dry option. We're headed back up there in a few weeks but not to the Lost World. Jerry wants to bolt Ride the Lightning and investigate a few more face lines in that same area. I'm eyeing what looks like 120' of 10+ OW. But there are also a few user friendly sizes right below that.

BTW this is all that rock at 8000'. I'm going to bring a camera and take some pics of the done lines next time. I'll post them here . They are worth the trip. The potential up in the pass is big.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:17 AM   #129
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Leaving for Wind River range monday. 2 weeks, 3 people, 3 mules, 3 flyrods, 5 peaks, ice, rock, snow, wild turkey, jim beam, 120 coors, red meat on the grill. Limestone sport climbing with any extra time, or vedauwoo. Its a rough life.
That sounds awesome.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:49 AM   #130
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Jerry and I went to some newly found local rock this past Sunday. The approach is easy but a bit on the longish side. The place is pretty awesome with some really nice potential. There are steep lines at about 70’ length and moderate lines at about 100’ in length.

Jerry found it a while back and started cleaning the cherry line and started working it on TR. He set up slings the last time he was out here but this time we have a drill and some bolts. He puts in anchors at the top and start working the line on TR to determine the bolt location. After a couple of go I get the redpoint on TR. We both think it will probably be .11 but we’ll wait on consensus. We decide on the placement and tick them off. Jerry climbs it and starts the drilling. We get all but two bolts before the drill runs out of juice.

With the drill done Jerry works the line on either side of the one we started bolting. There’s going to be a nice .10+ line to the right of this thing. The one on the right is going to be hard 12 if it will even go at that grade.

Not having ever done any route development before and after being involved in the work, I really have an appreciation for the sweat that guys put into these things. Hard work but it was a fun day.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:21 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by left footed whooten View Post
Leaving for Wind River range monday. 2 weeks, 3 people, 3 mules, 3 flyrods, 5 peaks, ice, rock, snow, wild turkey, jim beam, 120 coors, red meat on the grill. Limestone sport climbing with any extra time, or vedauwoo. Its a rough life.
hi yo!!

I climbed Ellington and something else back in there last year.

****ing rad!
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:16 PM   #132
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Not having ever done any route development before and after being involved in the work, I really have an appreciation for the sweat that guys put into these things. Hard work but it was a fun day.
Yep, you have to do it to really get it.

Now .. can you try to imagine what it was like for the guys doing ground-up ascents with a hand drill and hammer? No wonder so many of our classics have run-outs that'll make your balls nest in your throat, eh?
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:54 PM   #133
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one of these days I should get into lead/sport climbing. I enjoy bouldering to much though.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:15 PM   #134
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oh **** i am just now remembering this trip.

i flew into jackson that night. got totally bombed. woke up early and massively hungover and drove to the winds. the pack horses were waiting, and i was about to **** myself so i leave to go **** and nate just gives everything i brought to the horseman. I walk in with a daypack and get to where all our stuff was dropped off and i am like WHAT THE ****!!! like 70lbs of gear (usually it would be like 30) the 16mile hike out ****ing sucked!!!
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:20 PM   #135
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one of these days I should get into lead/sport climbing. I enjoy bouldering to much though.
You should do it! Both are a lot like bouldering but with actual climbing involved.


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Old 09-04-2012, 10:13 AM   #136
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Went back out to the new local rock. We finished bolting the line and started on a second one. We both sent the first one on lead and felt that it should clock in at mid .11's. The second one we're bolting will be the warm-up (for now) and will likely come in at hard .10's. It was fun but exhausting day.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:20 AM   #137
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nice work!!
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:49 PM   #138
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Back to the rock we've been working on. This time we had a crew of four. We brought a couple of guys to help work the trail and test the routes.

We finished bolting the second line and I got the FFA. I feel it's hard .10 but everybody wants to call .11a.

One of the guys that came along is a really strong climber and he tried the line to the right of the .11b. He felt the start could go at a strong V6. He's thinking if it could be linked it would probably go in the hard 12.

We also cleaned two more lines to the right of the hard line and TR them. These are longer and will go easy to mid .10s. Can't wait to bolt them and take them on the sharp end.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:13 PM   #139
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Family Guy Everest was albout %1 accurate and pretty funny - loved it.


IBMNODOESNTCLIMB
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Old 10-07-2012, 01:48 PM   #140
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Just finished the big move from Vancouver to San Francisco ... looking forward to see what the Bay area has for climbing. Is the season here pretty much 12 months a year?
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:55 PM   #141
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I want to climb Mt. Rainier.

Anybody want to provide some insight into the difficulty of it? How dangerous are typical routes?

I have no climbing/outdoors experience and would go with RMI or IMG. As far as physical conditioning goes, I just finished an Ironman... I know that doesn't mean a lot in terms of hiking with a heavy pack and altitude etc, but just for reference. Also, I'd be doing it this summer.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:04 PM   #142
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You should be fine with either outfit. You're probably in better shape than 99.9% of the normal clients that either of these outfits see. Put in some heavy pack work and you should be fine.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:07 PM   #143
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Just finished the big move from Vancouver to San Francisco ... looking forward to see what the Bay area has for climbing. Is the season here pretty much 12 months a year?
There is dry rock with good temps nearly 100% of the year. Yosemite is climbable year round. I spend more time there in the winter than the summer. There is also Pinnacles, JT, RR and a few other places for winter climbing. And in the summer your choice is endless. Welcome to the climbing Mecca or the USA.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:13 PM   #144
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You should be fine with either outfit. You're probably in better shape than 99.9% of the normal clients that either of these outfits see. Put in some heavy pack work and you should be fine.
Ok. I know things aren't predictable, but how "dangerous" and technical is it? I keep thinking of those epic crevasses etc. I just turned 20, and I have a feeling that my mom's not going to approve. (she didn't approve of my ironman either, but I feel that her concern in this case is much more valid)

Also, since there aren't any hills around here, I would be doing my training on a stairmaster with a heavy pack... is that sufficient?
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:22 PM   #145
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The route you pick or one they're willing to take a novice client up will be "easy". There is no way to predict objective hazards in big mountains. Your guides will/should make smart decisions about them. That said, big mountains will never be risk free. You're going to a place where people die on a regular basis.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:36 PM   #146
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This is going to sound silly, but:

How do you get over a fear of heights? I do fine on the way up, but on the way down, nearly freeze up. My wife and I are hikers and frequent some of the best "high haunts" around (she used to live in Pinedale WY, and we visit her brother who lives near a western trailhead for the Winds).

Scrambling is no problem. It is when I cannot see a decent foothold that tends to freak me out.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:48 PM   #147
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Quote:
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You should do it! Both are a lot like bouldering but with actual climbing involved.


late reply but maybe over this winter I will give it a try at the gym. I really need to get back into climbing. Haven't been to the gym as much in the past couple of months. For a while I was sending v4/5's pretty easily and working 6's and 7's. If I kept it up I think I wouldn't have a problem with some 5.10's and maybe .11's
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:53 PM   #148
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This is going to sound silly, but:

How do you get over a fear of heights? I do fine on the way up, but on the way down, nearly freeze up. My wife and I are hikers and frequent some of the best "high haunts" around (she used to live in Pinedale WY, and we visit her brother who lives near a western trailhead for the Winds).

Scrambling is no problem. It is when I cannot see a decent foothold that tends to freak me out.
The more you do it the less scary it becomes. I use to have "panic" attacks on route. Not so much now.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:59 PM   #149
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The more you do it the less scary it becomes. I use to have "panic" attacks on route. Not so much now.
I can go up like a madman. But down? NO.

My daughter, thankfully, has not inherited my "downaught". She is a gymnast and can climb like a bug on the wall.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:00 PM   #150
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Ever see anybody go "head down" on a technical descent?
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