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Old 03-21-2012, 09:14 AM   #51
gotsugg
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I'm trying to remove galley plugs from my heads. I broke an allen socket real quick and have since ordered an impact socket that I hope will help. I was just reading another thread where a few people mentioned using heat. Can someone share details or other tricks that they use?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:12 AM   #52
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ok the issue with the plugs is most ppl (me included) use an impact and the hammer affect kills sockets. I use a breaker bar big daddy one and then the slow steady tq wont kill sockets. If that doesnt work torch and A LITTLE heat will do ya. Also, if you want to keep using impact go to harbor freight. ABout 9 dollars for a full allen head socket set and i have been beating on mine for a while. 1/2 inch impact with conversion to 3/8 and using my 3/8 snap on. still no breakage.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:16 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cha86 View Post
To Remove the slide that holds the shift fork in place on the clutch..

simply use your battery tie down, screw into the end of the dowel, pull!

grease it up so when you insert, or ever need to take it out its smooooooth.


thats all i can think of at the moment.

will be useful for me. I always steal a short azz bolt from somewhere else to pull it.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:49 AM   #54
aboothman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotsugg View Post
I'm trying to remove galley plugs from my heads. I broke an allen socket real quick and have since ordered an impact socket that I hope will help. I was just reading another thread where a few people mentioned using heat. Can someone share details or other tricks that they use?

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.R.E.D View Post
I use a long handle 3\8ths drive ratchet with a allen bit on it. If you hold heavy constant pressure on them they will usually come loose, if they don't then you need to heat them with a torch.

The constant heavy pressure is important and some times it takes over a minute and then it will just randomly break free.

Matt
A few posts back in the thread...
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:26 PM   #55
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^^^^^ crap, i missed that. Thanks
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Old 04-11-2012, 06:52 PM   #56
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any tricks to getting the cam gears off with out breaking them? i got all 3 off no problem except the passenger side intake, it seems stuck on around the cam and dowel pin.. and of course is that carbon plastic crap so i cant pry it. bolt is out, i just need to get the gear off
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:51 PM   #57
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Try tapping the metal center section with something while wiggling it off. Socket extension seems to fit the bill, get a helper and be careful.. don't hit the plastic.

Speaking of cam gears and socket head bolts/plugs:

I've had MUCH better luck when using a good stubby hex bit. You want the axis of your breaker bar as close to the bolt/plug cap as possible.

A friend of mine brought a set of these over when I last inspected my heads, and I'm going to buy a set, no doubt about it. I can't find them on snapon's website, but they definitely make a 3/8 drive metric set that is a bit more stubby than this one, but still fills the whole socket.

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Old 04-11-2012, 08:03 PM   #58
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yeah, i tried doing that with a 12mm allen socket i had, but the issues is that the gear wont wiggle at all, lol

i always found my snap on 10mm allen socket works great on the bolts while ever other one i've had either rounds them out, or snaps off

Quote:
Originally Posted by izergfx View Post
Try tapping the metal center section with something while wiggling it off. Socket extension seems to fit the bill, get a helper and be careful.. don't hit the plastic.

Speaking of cam gears and socket head bolts/plugs:

I've had MUCH better luck when using a good stubby hex bit. You want the axis of your breaker bar as close to the bolt/plug cap as possible.

A friend of mine brought a set of these over when I last inspected my heads, and I'm going to buy a set, no doubt about it. I can't find them on snapon's website, but they definitely make a 3/8 drive metric set that is a bit more stubby than this one, but still fills the whole socket.

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Old 04-11-2012, 08:13 PM   #59
Crazykev
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This is what my thread chasers look like.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:09 PM   #60
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Nice blue point...

I need a set.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:10 PM   #61
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Back from the dead. Here is a good one, if you don't have the special tool to install valve seals, use a deep 10mm socket and slip it over the seal and push it smoothly onto guide.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:30 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav
Back from the dead. Here is a good one, if you don't have the special tool to install valve seals, use a deep 10mm socket and slip it over the seal and push it smoothly onto guide.
That is my secret!
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:31 PM   #63
Crystal_Imprezav
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Another secret for the extreme DIYer. If you have your own rigid hones and are worried the stones are getting out of round and tapered, simply put them in up side down in the hone and use the hone in reverse to get the stone back to round and then true.

Another tip for people taking their heads to machine shops. If your guides are anything but new (even new ones can be off) have the machine shop verify in front of you the guides are straight and true. Otherwise, your valve job will be crap. If they are not, replace the guides with bronze ones and reap all the benefits from it and the new straight and true guide.

Last edited by Crystal_Imprezav; 10-12-2012 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:24 PM   #64
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Just want to say, gun cleaning brushes are fantastic as they are usually softer than the metal you are working on. They are very popular for use on cleaning the intake valves on direct injected BMW engines.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:16 PM   #65
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I'm building a block as we speak.
Can these brushes clean off dried and hardened silicone/permatex gasket maker from threaded holes?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Scream View Post
I'll see ya and raise ya a .40 cal

I use gun brushes for cleaning chased, threaded holes. They are made out of brass, bronze or hard plastic, they will accept a threaded extension rod, and by themselves or attached to the threaded extension rod can be chucked up in your cordless drill and absolutely sanitize threaded holes.





Squirt some brake cleaner in the hole, run the brush driven by your drill up and down the hole a couple of times, re-spray with brake cleaner and blow with compressed air and viola SPOTLESS threaded holes.
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:35 PM   #66
aboothman
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I would suggest a combination of brushes, thread chasers, and brake cleaner
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:27 PM   #67
FuJi K
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Will not clear '02-05 WRX flywheel

Last edited by FuJi K; 05-07-2013 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:41 PM   #68
jockeygolfs
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^^^nice
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:31 PM   #69
mboulton
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Fuji,

so these bolt heads clear the flywheel without concern?
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:46 PM   #70
FuJi K
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mboulton
Fuji,

so these bolt heads clear the flywheel without concern?
Took a picture for the curious. 6spd flywheel.

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Old 10-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav View Post
Back from the dead. Here is a good one, if you don't have the special tool to install valve seals, use a deep 10mm socket and slip it over the seal and push it smoothly onto guide.
I'd guess twelve point socket would fit best? I need to do mine over the winter I think.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:58 PM   #72
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Why do you put the bolts in instead of the screws?
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:10 PM   #73
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Because they can be a PITA and strip very easily if you do not have the right tools.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:34 PM   #74
wrxsubiemod
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I hate those POS!

Drill them all I say lol. Broke two impact screw driver bits on those Phillips style heads.

And I still sometimes have trouble removing cam gear bolts. Its like bolt heads are made of butter and they would rather strip than come loose.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:41 PM   #75
Crystal_Imprezav
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You have to have the exact right size phillips and use either an impact driver or a mini-impact gun and they come right off. Took a long time to find a bit that fits it just right but once I did, I have not stripped one again.

As for the cam bolts, I have never stripped on. I use an impact allen from HF on a breaker bar and with some brute force, they always come off. If they are really stuck, I will hit it with a big impact to vibrate it and back to the breaker bar after.
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