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Old 02-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #51
wrxXeN
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I guess, but my car has never been driven on a salted road, garaged since new. And the rest of the under-hood circuitry goes through that same location (fusebox), and I saw no signs of any issues at all.

Just seems too specific to that exact location/terminal to be a random exposure and weathering problem. I dunno. I'm just happy to have my high beams back.

Downside is I think a couple of the other wires through that connector control some of the fan relays for the engine and A/C, which may not be as obvious if they stop working.

-SJ
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:51 PM   #52
rictd
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How do you get access to underneath the main fuse box? how do you unlatch it?
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:01 PM   #53
wrxXeN
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After pop off the main cover, there are a few sets of clips around each section of the fuse panel. The main section has 4 basic tab-type clips that have to be pressed, then you can wiggle out the main section (fits in pretty tight). There's 2 smaller sections that are pretty easy to get unclipped after that.

Once you pull the sections up, you can see the 2 tan connectors that are mounted below the main fuse panel. unclip those from the sides and turn them over and you may or may not see the corrosion that seems to be the issue in this thread.

Overall everything is in there pretty snug, but there's enough room to get things wiggled around to have a look. I originally started looking to take out the whole fuse box, but this seems like it would be a general pita, and isn't necessary to inspect the wires in question (and in fact makes it harder to get things unclipped if the main fusebox is loose).

-SJ
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:17 PM   #54
rictd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxXeN View Post
After pop off the main cover, there are a few sets of clips around each section of the fuse panel. The main section has 4 basic tab-type clips that have to be pressed, then you can wiggle out the main section (fits in pretty tight). There's 2 smaller sections that are pretty easy to get unclipped after that.

Once you pull the sections up, you can see the 2 tan connectors that are mounted below the main fuse panel. unclip those from the sides and turn them over and you may or may not see the corrosion that seems to be the issue in this thread.

Overall everything is in there pretty snug, but there's enough room to get things wiggled around to have a look. I originally started looking to take out the whole fuse box, but this seems like it would be a general pita, and isn't necessary to inspect the wires in question (and in fact makes it harder to get things unclipped if the main fusebox is loose).

-SJ
Thanks for this. I'm going to have a look tonight and I'll take pictures of this process and post them
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:31 PM   #55
rictd
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I did a visual check of both tan connectors, paying particular attention to the blue/yellow and white wires. All looked ok. No corrosion and I gave them a small tug and they did not come out.

When I take the DRL relay out, and measure the voltage at pins 3 & 5 (the trigger circuit) I read around 2 V with the high beam lever on and 0 V when it is off

I put a 9V external power source on the relay and it clicked, and i read continuity on the other circuit. But it did not click with an external 2V power source

Is 2V too low? Is there a voltage drop somewhere in the blue/yellow/white wiring? Or could I have a bad relay?
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:05 AM   #56
Cougar4
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The relay coil should have 12 volts across it when it is supposed to be turned on. Only having two volts across it is way too low. It sounds like the voltage supply source for that circuit has a problem.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:00 PM   #57
rictd
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Found my problem... 2011 WRX

The white wire that comes M/B FUSE NO. 15 to the tan coloured connector and then to the DRL relay is broken in between the fuse and the joint connector, still haven't found where but it is broken... It takes an awful long (and unnecessary?) route through the fender, why?

Following the headlight system wiring diagram, I read no voltage between connector 16 and ground. But I did have 12V between the FUSE NO. 15 and ground.

So I simply made a new connection between main box fuse 15 and the joint through tan coloured connector. Now my high beams work fine, but my low beams no longer turn off with my high beams. They do stock
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:00 AM   #58
BDLS619
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Yessss! After having intermittent bright lights to all of the sudden having none almost two years ago I began the arduous task of trying to figure this out. I of course started with the obvious bulb replacement (when doing so I found out that one high beam would work if the other was unplugged, didn't matter which side) of course my bulbs were fine. So I then thought it must be a ground because of the intermittent on off I had initially experienced, so I cleaned all obvious chassis grounds and still nothing so I then added a new ground to the neg side of my high beams and still....nothing Keep in mind I had already talked to three different Subaru dealerships service departments (which of course not one of them had ever heard of such a strange phenomenon) so I immediately knew they were gonna put a good old fashioned a$$ raping on me with their hourly rate to "troubleshoot this oddity"...So being that I am not a fan of being a$$ raped I of course decline their attempts at setting an appointment for said debauchery and go on a no bright light having, cant see the deer or see at all at night in the rain WRX driver thinking this is some kind of freak occurrence and will never be fixed unless I of course make the afore mentioned dreaded a$$ rape'n date with Subaru......So I do...and I just sit and contemplate how bad this is actually going to hurt my pore little....well you get the point....Then....THEN...I make one last ditch effort on google and search 2008 WRX High Beam Problems and what do you know good ole NASIOC pops up....(now mind you when this problem first reared it's grotesque head two years ago I went through the whole like 9 million pages in the all you need to know about lighting section and nada, nothing, zippo, zilcharoo and I commented and asked if anyone had ever seen the same issue I had....still nothing so I had all but been totally defeated) Well then I find this post tonight and it took me all of 18 minutes to fix the problem and I am proud to say that I can remain a$$ rape less for yet another day and hopefully for the rest of eternity for that matter,,,,,,So to end what has been an entirely to long thank you....THANKS THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU....and I think I will go drive in the dark for a while cause I CAN SEE!!!!!!!
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:02 AM   #59
aerosaaber
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SEE SEARCHING DOES SOLVE PROBLEMS (after 2 years)
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:10 PM   #60
PapaG
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I have had this issue for a while now. Dim high beams and I have narrowed it down to the drl relay not flipping over when the high beams are engaged. Can anyone tell me what wires I need to solder together in the small or large tan connectors to fix this? I already soldered the two blue with green strip wires together as that pin was broken in the smaller connector. Thanks
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:43 PM   #61
PapaG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG View Post
I have had this issue for a while now. Dim high beams and I have narrowed it down to the drl relay not flipping over when the high beams are engaged. Can anyone tell me what wires I need to solder together in the small or large tan connectors to fix this? I already soldered the two blue with green strip wires together as that pin was broken in the smaller connector. Thanks
bump...anyone?
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Old 09-20-2014, 02:44 PM   #62
Malamule
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So my high beams had been flaky for a while and finally stopped working entirely some weeks back. I have a 2008 WRX.

I found this thread and dug into it a bit and found my problem.

Essentially the two white wires on the bigger tan connector under the fuse panel were corroded. I confirmed continuity with a meter on the tan plug, then snipped 'em and used a crimp connector. I had intended to bring my solder iron home from work but forgot. I may open it back at some point and solder it, but it's working now.

I took some pics along the way and added some captions if anyone in the future can benefit from it.






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Old 09-21-2014, 10:39 AM   #63
PapaG
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Malamule - thanks for the write up. I was hoping this was going to solve my problem, but the DRL relay is still not switching over so still no high beams.....my search continues..
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Old 09-30-2014, 11:19 AM   #64
kingsalami
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Great write-up & pics - well done, Malamule!
My high beams just stopped working last week. Perfect timing.
Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2014, 12:43 AM   #65
Cougar4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG View Post
Malamule - thanks for the write up. I was hoping this was going to solve my problem, but the DRL relay is still not switching over so still no high beams.....my search continues..
The info I have for an '07 model shows that the DRL relay coil has a Grn/blk wire wire that should be tied to power. The other side of the coil is a grn/red wire that should tie the wire to ground when the light switch is in the HIGH position. You should be able to manually ground that wire to verify the relay operation.
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Old 10-03-2014, 09:39 AM   #66
PapaG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
The info I have for an '07 model shows that the DRL relay coil has a Grn/blk wire wire that should be tied to power. The other side of the coil is a grn/red wire that should tie the wire to ground when the light switch is in the HIGH position. You should be able to manually ground that wire to verify the relay operation.
Thanks. Colors are a little different on the '08 the ground wire is blue/yellow. If I manually ground it, the relay switches over and the high beams come on. If I leave it manually grounded my drl's are high beams. Any idea where that ground wire runs to? There must be a relay or switch which activates the ground somewhere? I just can't figure it out from the wiring diagram.
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Old 10-03-2014, 02:16 PM   #67
Cougar4
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You are correct, the blu/yel wire should go to a switch. It is the light switch that selects the low and high beams. This may be the multiswitch on your car. The same lever the turn signals uses. The wire isn't really a true ground but it does supply a connection to ground for the relay coil when the light switch is set to the HIGH position. Otherwise that wire is in a open condition. The service data should show that wire tieing to the light switch.
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