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Old 01-19-2012, 09:03 PM   #1
northpolerex
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Default hotter t-stat

Anyone up here know where to get a hotter thermostat for a 2002 wrx?? 172* is OE....I wouldn't mind a 195-205* if there is a company out there that makes one. Being -45 for the last 2 weeks..I just want my car to make some damn heat!!!
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:41 PM   #2
bjcarter2
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Zip-tie a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. About 1/2 the size. It will help to retain heat by cutting the cooling air flow.
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Old 01-19-2012, 11:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjcarter2
Zip-tie a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. About 1/2 the size. It will help to retain heat by cutting the cooling air flow.
Do this
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:10 AM   #4
northpolerex
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Already done.

Here's my problem. In the winter months I have to turn up my idle to 1100 or the heater only blows ice cold. The temp gauge will be in the middle, but the air coming from the vents is cold. I rev it up to 1-1100 rpm's and wala, warm air.

It just doesn't feel as hot as it should be.... I'm thinking I've got a heater core that is slightly plugged up, and at idle the water pump isn't pushing hard enough to move water through the heater core, this causing it to blow cold air.... I start driving, rpm goes up, and hot air comes from the vents.

What do you guys think??
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Old 01-20-2012, 02:11 PM   #5
P3Auto
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Sounds simple but have to checked the coolant level? Air in the system will also cause this. There is an official burping procedure but it is rarely used or needed.

Does the temp gauge stay in the normal range when your getting cold air? If it does then the thermostat is probably ok.

The heater core could be getting blocked up a bit as well.

I believe there is a mix actuator that could be not allowing full heat.

I doubt it would be the water pump, typically they leak when they fail or make noise.

Here are instructions to help eliminate air:

How to PROPERLY BURP your cooing system
These instructions can be found in your Subaru Owners Manual

What you will need:
1) Coolant 50/50 Pre-mix
2) Old towel or rag
3) Time
4) More Time

At no time does this say to open the radiator cap, doing so will compromise the burping of the coolant system

1.) Check Fluid level in both the Radiator Resevoir and the Turbo Coolant Res ( Metal tank over the TI)
2.) Fill Radiator Resevoir to the full line
3.) Top off the Turbo Resevoir
4.) Replace Caps
5.) Place car in "N"
6.) Strat car and turn on Defroster to High and Heat
7.) Hold RPM's to 3000 for 10 minutes (do not worry if Temp Gauge Rises)
8.) Turn car off to "ACC" until "C" cool
9.) Use the towel to carefully open the Turbo Coolant Resevoir
10.) Top off Turbo Resevoir
11.) Fill the Radiator Coolant Resevoir to the Full Line
12.) Replace caps
13.) Repeat steps 1-12 until no further coolant is added to either tanks.

** This proceedure will take you approx 50 minutes after a Turbo upgrade
This proceedure will take you longer than you think with just a small am mount of coolant loss.
Do not open the radiator unless you have just removed all fluids from your car. If that is the case fill radiator to the top and replace cap and follow the rest of the instructions.
** On 03's and older there is no radiator cap so you will have to fill the radiator during a complete cooland change via the top radiator hose. Just get as much as you can in and then follow the steps above.

*** Nowhere does it say to squeeze the radiator hose, use a funnell in the radiator filler hole, put air into the coolant resevoir, squeeze and watch the coolant rise as the T-stat opens or any of the other shade tree mechanic techniques.
This is by the book, any other steps incorporated can be dangerous to you and or damage the car.

Jay-R
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:08 PM   #6
northpolerex
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To bypass that whole procedure I just use an air lift. That removes all of the air from the cooling system, putting the cooling system into a vacuum, than sucking the new coolant into the system.

Yes the temp gauge stays where it should, t-stat is new, cooling level is ok and good to -65. I'm think the 'ol heater core is plugging up.
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:32 PM   #7
AK_GT
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I'm questioning the heater core plugging up... if you have heat at higher RPM, and no heat at idle, that would make me question a coolant mixing valve, or an air mixing door in the heater box. I don't know Subaru's complete heating system, nor do I claim to, but there has to be some sort of mix valve/door somewhere. How is the valve/door operated? Electronic from your dash control, or is it a mechanical connection?

I know it's a totally different vehicle, but my cummins has a mix valve on the coolant feed line that's vacuum actuated. Worth a shot, should be simple enough to check out and eliminate that before you tear your dash apart!
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:04 PM   #8
coldfiremx
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Im questioning the engine getting hot enough to open the thermostat in the first place.
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:22 PM   #9
P3Auto
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Getting corroded or plugging up would restrict flow like a heat divert valve might do. So less flow means less heat, off idle the coolant flows much faster bringing more flow and more heat to the heater core.

I believe on the early wrx the mix door is mechanical and simply directs or diverts air from the heater core. I don't think there is any valve in line of the coolant stream itself to the core.

It would be pretty easy to clean or flush the core. Just connect your own two lines to the hard lines on the firewall drivers side. Run some sort of CLR cleaner threw it. You could also test flow this way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AK_GT View Post
I'm questioning the heater core plugging up... if you have heat at higher RPM, and no heat at idle, that would make me question a coolant mixing valve, or an air mixing door in the heater box. I don't know Subaru's complete heating system, nor do I claim to, but there has to be some sort of mix valve/door somewhere. How is the valve/door operated? Electronic from your dash control, or is it a mechanical connection?

I know it's a totally different vehicle, but my cummins has a mix valve on the coolant feed line that's vacuum actuated. Worth a shot, should be simple enough to check out and eliminate that before you tear your dash apart!
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:26 PM   #10
P3Auto
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On a side note when I was up there a few weeks ago it was -40 and I was driving a BMW X5 that has never had heating issues. When I stopped for a while at idle it would also start to blow cold air. My levels were good to go as well.

I found that if I set the system to circulate and not pull fresh air it fixed the problem. I felt in my case there just was simply not enough flow and heat coming from the motor to heat that super cold air very well.

Do other guys with the same cars up there have issues like yours with the cold or do you feel your case is definitely unique?

Quote:
Originally Posted by northpolerex View Post
To bypass that whole procedure I just use an air lift. That removes all of the air from the cooling system, putting the cooling system into a vacuum, than sucking the new coolant into the system.

Yes the temp gauge stays where it should, t-stat is new, cooling level is ok and good to -65. I'm think the 'ol heater core is plugging up.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:04 PM   #11
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My 05 legacy gt doesn't have any issues when it gets down to -45, and it stays outside overnight. Blows hot air at idle even with nothing in front of the radiator.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3Auto View Post
I found that if I set the system to circulate and not pull fresh air it fixed the problem. I felt in my case there just was simply not enough flow and heat coming from the motor to heat that super cold air very well.
I never set it to pull fresh air in the winter. It seems to fog the windows more. When it's -40, it's just damn cold regardless. It's tough to heat anything up when it's that cold.
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:08 PM   #13
northpolerex
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I do the whole re-circ thing, but it makes the windows fog up to fast. I ran some napa cleaner stuff through the cooling system...I dunno, it might have made a difference, I dunno. its only a 3.5 hour job to do a heater core....I'm thinkin I might just go ahead and do it.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:56 PM   #14
cosseywrx
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I will try thr re-circ thing as well. I warm the car and blast heat at the window and when i hit the highway its instant fog in the car. Windshield instantly ices over
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:15 AM   #15
crash907
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Recirculating the air causes more condensation than fresh air....
when I have a lot of condensation I get the interior really warm then crack the rear window a little with the heater on full blast while going down the highway. you draw in fresh dry air and it moves the old most air from the front out the back . It's Alaska in the winter, fresh air here doesn't get any more dry.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:22 AM   #16
northpolerex
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If my AC was still in the car it probably wouldn't fog up that bad. Sadly... My pump seized up, so the whole AC system became a "deleted option."

Trust me.... I regret it now. I think I'll order a heater core this coming weekend when I get some $ and start with that. Has anyone done one of them before?? I take assume you have to remove the dash?? Than again it only pays 3.5 hours according to alldata....
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:36 AM   #17
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Is this the LMFAO thread?
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:51 AM   #18
cosseywrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northpolerex
If my AC was still in the car it probably wouldn't fog up that bad. Sadly... My pump seized up, so the whole AC system became a "deleted option."

Trust me.... I regret it now. I think I'll order a heater core this coming weekend when I get some $ and start with that. Has anyone done one of them before?? I take assume you have to remove the dash?? Than again it only pays 3.5 hours according to alldata....
I dont mind lending a hand
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:00 AM   #19
Dominator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfiremx View Post
Is this the LMFAO thread?
^ no.

The AC dries the recirc air.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:02 AM   #20
northpolerex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldfiremx
Is this the LMFAO thread?
What is their to laugh your ass off about? All I asked was about was a t-stat, and what you guys thought.

If your the "suby guru" than how about you come to my work next weekend and diag my car? And than you can laugh if it makes you feel better.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:06 AM   #21
northpolerex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOMIN8R

^ no.

The AC dries the recirc air.
Thank you :-) I knew that when I pulled everything out. Now that I have an AC machine at work, I'll work on getting a new pump and putting it back together. Than as can all LMFAO or whatever. Jesus people on this site.

Btw you feeling strong Dom?? I've got a couple couches I gotta move tomorrow ;-)
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:12 AM   #22
coldfiremx
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I was being a smarty. The air conditioning system in you car does 3 things to the air. Cools, cleans, dries. You can use AC and heat at the same. AC isn't just for making cold air. What are the temperature readings at the inlet and outlet hoses. What are the readings from the heater core lines. If the temperatures check out ok then move on. Have you checked to see if your heater blend door is mechanically sound and functioning properly. If it is not, is the blend door motor bad, the blend door cracked or is the motor not getting a signal from the head unit? If you can get those readings and answers I can tell you exactly what is wrong with your heating system.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:13 AM   #23
coldfiremx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northpolerex

What is their to laugh your ass off about? All I asked was about was a t-stat, and what you guys thought.

If your the "suby guru" than how about you come to my work next weekend and diag my car? And than you can laugh if it makes you feel better.
I wasn't laughing at you. If you were in Anchorage, I'd gladly help.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:20 AM   #24
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I'm in the process of starting a new job this coming week, I'll check the inlet and outlet at the core.

The blower motor works fine, and as long as I have my idle set +300 with my accessport it blows decently warm.

It's when it's cold out like this, and I don't have the idle cranked up it blows ice cold.

I guess I've just got used to having it idle high all the time in the winter. I'd just be nice (for gas anyways) to not have it cranked up all winter. The blend doors work, the fan and all speeds work, coolant level is ok, t-stat is new.... I just thought 172* seemed really low, That's why I asked about a warmer one.
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Old 01-21-2012, 01:31 AM   #25
coldfiremx
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So after the t stat was installed did anything change, or was it the same? If the t stat is stuck open then coolant will flow all the time and will keep the temperature too low for decent heat. Stuck closed will probably over heat. Installed incorrectly it will probably get really hot then maybe open if at all. Get a temp reading at the t stat housing too.
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