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Old 01-24-2013, 06:58 PM   #51
bearshadow
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except for the fact you don't have a lot of space to work with, it's a really easy job if you ask me, you could remove the fuel pump fuse and start the car until it die that would remove the pressure in the line but it's useless to remove them

-36.4 f this morning, it's hearthbreaking to listen to the motor the first 15 sec lol but still a rock solid ilde after
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:13 PM   #52
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the last few days have been quite cold here. my 08 takes 3 times more cranking to start. also, i get the rough race cam like idle at my first redlight or stop sign. i wonder if thats a warranty thing> i have the gold plus warranty bumper to bumper thats still good. gonna ask my dealer about it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:53 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by bearshadow View Post
except for the fact you don't have a lot of space to work with, it's a really easy job if you ask me, you could remove the fuel pump fuse and start the car until it die that would remove the pressure in the line but it's useless to remove them

-36.4 f this morning, it's hearthbreaking to listen to the motor the first 15 sec lol but still a rock solid ilde after
HOLY ****! as a new yorker who has been getting 6 degrees Farenheit, I feel like a bitch complaining abou the cold next to you, Bearshadow...

HOW THE HELL DO YOU GUYS DEAL WITH THAT INSANE COLD!?!?!
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:39 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by nystateofmind308 View Post
HOLY ****! as a new yorker who has been getting 6 degrees Farenheit, I feel like a bitch complaining abou the cold next to you, Bearshadow...

HOW THE HELL DO YOU GUYS DEAL WITH THAT INSANE COLD!?!?!

It blows my mind. As a southern boy, we start bichin' anytime it gets below +32....

About 30 today with a little freezing rain last night and all the schools closed down and no one showed up at work. Yes it is sad, but we get paid back for it in the summer for sure.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:43 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Trustkevin13 View Post
anyone have a link to the thicker gasket? couldnt find it on oako's site. i found the smaller stock one i must be bad at searching

It is this one: Part Number: 14035AA492
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:48 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by nystateofmind308 View Post
Hoon, best of luck to ya man, mine was a real pain, fun, but a pain!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kicnit View Post
^^ Good luck. Keep us posted. I might attempt mine this weekend as well.

cheers,
kyle
Thanks guys. I am sure I will need a little luck. I think I am most concerned about dropping an important bit somewhere that I can't get to...

Full report on Monday! Stay warm up there!
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:19 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Hoon Goon View Post
Thanks guys. I am sure I will need a little luck. I think I am most concerned about dropping an important bit somewhere that I can't get to...

Full report on Monday! Stay warm up there!
Dental pic is key. That way you are less to drop anything downward.

cheers,
kyle
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:33 PM   #58
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Dental pic is key. That way you are less to drop anything downward.

cheers,
kyle
I concur 130% dude. That thing saved my life
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:50 PM   #59
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it's cold but believe it or not, -36f isn't that bad... i used to weld at a mine in fermont /quebec, -50f is normal at night and -30/35 is normal in the day lol (that's without wind chill btw lol)

full synthetic oil is a must here, so is a block heater that i'll install on this weekend or the next (38 buck oem) seriously subaru if the car is sell in canada just put 1 in...

Last edited by bearshadow; 01-25-2013 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:57 PM   #60
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it's cold but believe it or not, -36f isn't that bad... i used to weld at a mine in fermont /quebec, -50f is normal at night and -30/35 is normal in the day lol
damn son, are you a lizard?
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:15 PM   #61
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it's cold but believe it or not, -36f isn't that bad... ...
You Canadians really are crazy! I love it!
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:27 PM   #62
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I'm thinking this may be one for the service department (gotta love that 100k mile powertrain warranty).
I have the extended warranty up to 100K or whatever it is, but it's got (at least?) a $100 deductible. I kinda regret getting it, since I doubt they'd even honor it anymore given the few minor mods I have. (I'm not blaming them, however... just saying.)

So I think I might try tackling it this weekend myself. Will need to make a run for kerosene first though...
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:05 PM   #63
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Default Hoon Goon's Update

I will give an update regarding the effectiveness of the fix tomorrow (too warm today, come on cold!), but I can tell a difference in idle quality. I am prtty sure I am golden now. Like bearshadow said, my ride will boost to target and hold boost to infinity now!

It took me about 3 hours with no beer. Followed bearshadows tutorial and all went well. Below are some of Hoon's additional pointers:

1. The pick is a must have tool. I bought a whole set at Autozone for about $10.

2. That hex/allen bolt for the turbo inlet tube to manifold support is a 6mm. That was my second and last trip to Autozone for this project. Of course I had a 5.5mm and 7mm, go figure. The rest are 10mm and 12mm sockets.

3. I found it VERY handy to have a good (strong) magnetic flexible pickup tool for removing the intake bolts on the driver's side. I bought one today for about $6. It was also VERY handy to get those bolts back into the holes. No lost bolts today! I also used the tool to fetch a socket that I lost down in the nether regions a few months ago.

4. Rather than using a screwdriver to gap the manifold from the TGV assemblies I used a door panel fastener pop tool to do it and I was able to really get a good gap even on the driver's side. Those look similar to a flathead, but with a much larger head. The key was that the tool has about a 25 degree angle bent towards the head. I could really get in there and lift up to get those taller gaskets in. It was beautiful. They sell those at Autozone as well. Probably not needed, but I was glad to have it. I just happened to have one from replacing window regulators in another vehicle. If you have the extra $ it is worth it in my opinion. Once you see one you will know what i am talking about here.

5. As stated above (bearshadow?) disconnecting the fuel lines is not only not needed, but you will not gain anything by doing it unless you have the hands of a 3 YO to get down under the manifold to undo clamps and such.

6. I keep my motor very clean, but I went ahead and bought a couple of cans of carb cleaner to degreese the bejesus out of the manifold and TGV assemblies to make sure that I did not rake any dirt/grease into the intake while removing and reinstalling. A clean motor is a happy motor.

7. Make sure to lube the intercooler to throttle body hose and BPV hose a bit with some silicone spray or something when you are putting it back together. Any other hose will benefit as well. They will slip back on like butter. Also, silicone spray is actually good for hoses because those hoses are made out of silicone rubber. I have been spraying silicone on my hoses and wiring and wiping them down or washing off later at a car wash (with the engine running, don't want to cool aluminum off too fast!) for about 20 years now with great results. Makes them look new and softens them back up too.

It was pretty easy, but you need the hands of a surgeon (I don't!) to get those new gaskets lined up just right to be seated properly. Patience is a must have for this "operation". The mirror is a great quality check, but you can pretty much tell when they seat properly. Like bearshadow said, lifting up and down while going side to side (gently) gets them to pop in.

Good luck to the rest thinking of diving in. I hope some of these pointers helps/adds to the great information already on this thread. It is worth it to do it yourself so you can see how some of the motor is put together, as well as check things over a bit. I had a nice clean intercooler @ 67K miles, so that is good. I also got to do my silicone spray trick on all the hoses and connectors that I usually can't get to.

This may have to be a sticky some day aberg12012! Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:28 PM   #64
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happy my post helped, i did a quick vid this morning of a cold start at minus 11f

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlIau...ature=youtu.be

-24c/-11.4f synthetic oil, no heater not as bad as 2 day ago (-34c/-29f) the noise you heard at the end is the power steering pump running dry until it can suck up a bit of oil (it's like tick sirup lol) and the rpm dropped from 2000 to 1500 cause i let the clucth out too fast (also normal) lol

the funny thing is 19 min later at my job it's now...


just got to love winter...
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:20 PM   #65
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I'm doing this project as I type. I have the manifold gap'ed on the passenger side and the gaskets are hardened in there and I can't get them out. Not only that but when I run my finger across the bottom of the mating surface, there's actually a depression where the gasket sits... no wonder they were leaking.

I guess I'm unlucky... mine are really in there.... LOL

I have a feeling this will be a long night. Good thing I have 10 gallons of kerosene to keep me warm... and if all else fails, to set it all on fire. ROFL

Last edited by aberg12012; 01-27-2013 at 04:26 AM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:22 PM   #66
424wrx
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Originally Posted by bearshadow View Post
happy my post helped, i did a quick vid this morning of a cold start at minus 11f

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlIau...ature=youtu.be

-24c/-11.4f synthetic oil, no heater not as bad as 2 day ago (-34c/-29f) the noise you heard at the end is the power steering pump running dry until it can suck up a bit of oil (it's like tick sirup lol) and the rpm dropped from 2000 to 1500 cause i let the clucth out too fast (also normal) lol

the funny thing is 19 min later at my job it's now...


just got to love winter...
i thought 2 degrees was cold this week. thats just insane! whats with the 11 mpg? im not trying to do the gaskets. gonna talk to my dealer. im still under gold plus warranty. this isnt my problem i would think.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:29 PM   #67
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Yea. Wife is going to give me the big "I told you so..." when I walk in to take a break. And she's right...

I guess it's not too late to strap the intake back down and take it to the dealer on Monday. I have been picking at the one gasket, and all I get is crumbs. It won't break lose. Luckily I did pass some tape over the TGV's so the crap isn't falling in. But there's no way I'm going to get these out w/o complete removal of the intake manifold...


EDIT: WAIT WAIT!! I got it... I think. I just got one popped lose. I had to really stab the pick into the grove and pull down. I have no idea how I'm going to do this on the driver side however since a 3 y/o's hands wouldn't be small enough.

Last edited by aberg12012; 01-27-2013 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:58 PM   #68
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insert the pick just over the little tab that stick outto get below the gasket then push down after you go around from side to side

424wrx
Quote:
whats with the 11 mpg?
it's 11l/100 km lol i don't know what it make in mpg but pretty sure it's not that great lool

heavy foot, cold weather and i didn't buy the car expecting great mpg lol in the summer it's more like 10.5, i can average 9.4 on highway

Last edited by bearshadow; 01-26-2013 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:09 PM   #69
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Yea, that's what I've been trying to do but the old gaskets are so brittle they're basically just crumbling if I'm not really careful. I got the passenger side all done. Currently trying to figure out how i'm going to make enough wiggle room on the driver side. It's tight, no question there...

Did you remove the metal fuel rail protector thing on the driver side some how? I'm considering taking a cut off tool to it about halfway back where you can't get to the bolts for it... (Read this about installing injectors, too... which I may do some day.)
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:16 PM   #70
Hoon Goon
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Yea, that's what I've been trying to do but the old gaskets are so brittle they're basically just crumbling if I'm not really careful. I got the passenger side all done. Currently trying to figure out how i'm going to make enough wiggle room on the driver side. It's tight, no question there...

Did you remove the metal fuel rail protector thing on the driver side some how? I'm considering taking a cut off tool to it about halfway back where you can't get to the bolts for it... (Read this about installing injectors, too... which I may do some day.)
I left mine on. I took that whole air pump bracket off to get to the fron one-driver's side. Like above, I had a couple that were pretty hard to get started, but mine came out in one piece at least. Yours must be real bad! Don't get drunk and pissed man!

Smoke some grass if you have it!

Edit: Don't do that, or you will just say "Good Enuff"
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:29 PM   #71
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No, if I smoke grass I'll just lay down on the cold cement and fall asleep for 12 hours and my wife will find me in the morning wondering what happened. =D

Anyways I got the front driver's side one out...

...I've built motors. Many. This is harder. ROFL

And just to note: The old gaskets might have well not even been there. I mentioned it before, but feeling the bottom side w/ my finger the gasket was actually an impression into the mating surface. And it's roughly 50 degrees in my garage, so they aren't even cold. Wonder how much of a gap there was when it was 10 below or more!
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:34 PM   #72
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Ok the back one (closest to firewall) is freakin' impossible to get at. I'm going to get it... I swear. If not I still have 10 gallons of kerosene...



Side Note: I've now had enough beers to the point that I think I can dance to the radio. This can only get worse...
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:06 AM   #73
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bearshadow, makes sense now. i didnt noticed your location! if i saw 11 mpg in new york i would be like wth??
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:16 PM   #74
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Talking Hoon Goon's Final Update

In short: IT WORKED!!!

It was in the mid 20s this morning and I purposefully did not warm it up as much. Drove down to the light where it was always happening and-very tense moment- nothing.

Idled like a champ!

I hope you got it done aberg! I was pulling for you last night!

Good luck to the rest of you thinking of DIYing it!

To the rest: Don't do like I did a couple of months ago and think you can just "snug up" the intake bolts. Those little gaskets suck.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:18 PM   #75
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IT WORKED FOR ME TOO! As a grown middle aged man I shouldn't be this excited... but yea. Here's a list of things I've noticed different with the new gaskets:

1.) The idle thing is GONE.

2.) It definitely runs smoother even after fully warmed up.

3.) It shifts much easier. It used to want to buck and surge when I'd up-shift some times if I wasn't 100% smooth with the clutch. It doesn't seem to do that anymore. And taking off from a complete stop... wow what a difference.

5.) Last but not least - In engine braking it IMMEDIATELY quits fueling like it should. It used not not quit fueling till after a few seconds when letting off the gas in 5th gear on an off ramp exiting the highway. (Because it was sucking in so much air with the vacuum leak, it was like I still had my foot on the gas.) Now it quits feuling immediately as it should. Nice! (This is something I really only noticed due to having a wide band AFR sensor.)

6.) I'm anxious to check my fuel trims in learning view after a while. I'm assuming they will be much prettier looking.

Thanks for all the help and support last night. I may have been a little over dramatic about it. Once I forced myself to stop posting here and "just do it" it went pretty smoothly. Not that it was easy... but it went smoothly. I do not regret having done this myself one bit. And it's always nice to be forced to become more familiar with the inner workings of my vehicles. Makes you more in tune with it, makes it easier to dig into next time.
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